Just got a Shred

[towelie55]

I haven't messed with it yet considering Garn says it takes small turns, will try tomorrow when I head to class and adjust as needed. From what it sounds like though it will fix the problem.

 

[DaveS]

Let me know if it doesn't. I have some other ideas too.

Edit...
Question: Does your pedal assist still work fine even when your throttle does not?

If both PAS and throttle are dead, then figure out which brake lever is the suspect one by pushing each lever (rather than pulling it) and see which one is causing the motor lockout. Then adjust the sensor as GARN sugessted.

If PAS works but throttle is dead, then the motor lockout function in the brake lever is not the problem (because it will inhibit all power) and you need to figure out why your throttle itself is malfunctioning. If this is the case, did you move it, or adjust it recently, like when you put on the bell?

 

[dgstan]

Did I just experience the battery issue you guys were talking about?

I didn't ride my bike all weekend and the battery was off the bike. Last night, I fully charged the battery - still off the bike. This morning, I put it on the bike and it was at 8 bars.

 

[towelie55]

yes everyone has this issue. It’s hit or miss but you will have it. Cut or pull the green cable. Future surface bikes won’t have that cable.

 

[dgstan]

Thanks. I'll perform the mod tonight. This was the first time I ever went a few days without riding the bike!

 

[towelie55]

I just bought a second ebike lol.

 

[canucks44]

Hi there! I just received a new 604 for my birthday the other day (LUCKY!), and preemptively disconnected the green wire. However, I've noticed while riding early this morning (day 3) my display went from 50% charge down to 1 bar 3 miles into a 9 mile ride, while the battery pack went from 3 green lights to 2. It assisted the rest of the ride (6 miles) and ran the headlamp, but I lost the throttle which was kind of a bummer. I've been riding in the early AM with the headlamp, so I could see an additional drain, but the display still seems overly pessimistic. Any suggestions?

 

[GARN]

Give that battery a full charge..Should work fine...I have had zero issues since the mod besides the meter going down a bit under load. (it comes back up after sitting a bit) I am getting what I consider to be the appropriate distance on the 48 / 14mh pack.

 

[canucks44]

Give that battery a full charge..Should work fine...I have had zero issues since the mod besides the meter going down a bit under load. (it comes back up after sitting a bit) I am getting what I consider to be the appropriate distance on the 48 / 14mh pack.

I'll come back with some better data later, but I gave it an overnight charge last night, then took a light ride this morning, about 13 miles on the flattest route available as a test, assist level 2, minimal throttle use. Ended with 30% battery showing on the display and 75% on the battery lamps. Going to check the voltage levels and report back as well.

 

[TheGadgetGuru]

I'll come back with some better data later, but I gave it an overnight charge last night, then took a light ride this morning, about 13 miles on the flattest route available as a test, assist level 2, minimal throttle use. Ended with 30% battery showing on the display and 75% on the battery lamps. Going to check the voltage levels and report back as well.

Out of curiosity, is this all throttle riding or pedal assist? Can you provide some details on your riding style?

 

[GARN]

Guru.. He said assist level 2, minimal throttle use.

My question is what size Battery are you using? 48v 10 or 48v 14? Also, you have to take the battery level with a grain of salt as I bet after sitting for an hour, its back up to 50%

I speculate that whatever feature the green wire was attempting to provide from the BMS is now bypassed with the “fix”. I am guessing that one of these features was to stop this fluctuation of the meter on the controller. I actually remember seeing this in some advertisement or review for the bike. It said something along the lines of, “the BMS uses an advanced algorithm to resist fluctuations and blah, blah, blah”.

Either way, that feature is now gone even though surface wont confirm that. Anyway, my battery now performs aweskme so maybe you have a bad one. I just rode 14+ miles in a very hilly area and used assit from 2-5 and a good bit of throttle. I parked it with 5/10 left and ots now back ip to 7/10. Thats about right..

 

[canucks44]

My question is what size Battery are you using? 48v 10 or 48v 14?

I've got the bigger 48v-14. I'm a bigger guy as well, about 6'3", 300 lb so I figure I'm going to see reduced results. On a full charge this morning, the pack was registering 54V, bike showed full on display. Took it for an abreviated spin of 11 miles on flat terrain using assist level 2 (avg. 17 mph) and not touching the throttle. At the end of the run, the display was showing 6/10 bars and pack was reading at 49V with 4 battery lights. Gave it 2 hours and all read the same.

 

[GARN]

Well...I guess it all depends on how Surface came to their published mileage. Lot of variables. Probably like most companies, it’s 35-45 miles under ideal conditions meaning assist level of 1 on flat ground with a tail wind. Sounds like you could get around 20 miles using varying assist levels with throttle and that may be about right.

 

[Erev]

I've got the bigger 48v-14. I'm a bigger guy as well, about 6'3", 300 lb so I figure I'm going to see reduced results. On a full charge this morning, the pack was registering 54V, bike showed full on display. Took it for an abreviated spin of 11 miles on flat terrain using assist level 2 (avg. 17 mph) and not touching the throttle. At the end of the run, the display was showing 6/10 bars and pack was reading at 49V with 4 battery lights. Gave it 2 hours and all read the same.

I have had my shred about 3 weeks. First thing I did was pull the green wire, had read about this issue on this forum so thanks to everyone who provided guidance.
I just got back from my 3rd ride on this battery charge (48-14) I have a total of 46km, almost all on level assist 1. My BMS shows 2bars and my battery pack just dropped to 3 lights. To me they don't seem to be in sync, no issue with the power of the bike. I tried the throttle just before I got to the house and its working fine, 32km no problem. I would ride more to see how it reacts but a certain part of my anatomy is telling me no more! I am not going to charge it and will ride around close to home tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[jazz]

Has anyone found out what the green wire was supposed to do in the first place?

 

[Erev]

I didn't have much time to test the bike further. I rode another 14km so a total of 60km on the battery. The BMS was showing 1 bar and the battery pack 2 lights. I could still use the throttle but didn't feel as responsive but was able to get 30km/hr with it. I was hoping to see what happens if the BMS drops to 0. Maybe it will just continue to stay at 1 until the battery pack dies? Has anyone had there BMS down to no bars? What happens no pedal assist at all even if the battery pack has one or two lights?

 

[Deleted member 4210]

A photo of the Green wire to cut is attached. There are 3 green wires inside the controller area. (see wire designated by the red box outlining it)

Throttle issues: For those of you having an issue with the throttle, its also a known issue by Surface. It creates a magnetic field (supposedly) and if it is in a certain position versus the brake inhibitor, it can actually trigger that signal to cut out the motor, from the magnetic field. The potential 'fix' (until they get a new throttle design) is to either rotate the brake levers so they are nearly flat (horizontal), and not affected by the field. If that is a bad position for you, then move the throttle to the other side of the control pad, further away from the brake inhibitor. None of these are optimal solutions admittedly. Another solution is to purchase a trigger/lever throttle, that sits further away from the brake inhibitor, but remains in a much more user-friendly position. An image of the throttle I have found that works, is attached.

These are some 'bugs' on this first production run Surface is having with the Shred.

 

[Wolfeman]

Let me know if it doesn't. I have some other ideas too.

Edit...
Question: Does your pedal assist still work fine even when your throttle does not?

If both PAS and throttle are dead, then figure out which brake lever is the suspect one by pushing each lever (rather than pulling it) and see which one is causing the motor lockout. Then adjust the sensor as GARN sugessted.

If PAS works but throttle is dead, then the motor lockout function in the brake lever is not the problem (because it will inhibit all power) and you need to figure out why your throttle itself is malfunctioning. If this is the case, did you move it, or adjust it recently, like when you put on the bell?

Just received my new Shred and everything is working great, except for the throttle. Pedal assist works great, but the throttle only gives the motor a slight blip and then nothing. Obviously there’s power from the throttle to the motor, otherwise there would be no blip. It’s as if the throttle is being regulated somehow. I couldn’t find any parameter settings for the throttle in the controller. I have a call into Surface 604, but I thought I would see if anyone else has dealt with this already....has anyone had this problem?

 

[Wolfeman]

A photo of the Green wire to cut is attached. There are 3 green wires inside the controller area. (see wire designated by the red box outlining it)

Throttle issues: For those of you having an issue with the throttle, its also a known issue by Surface. It creates a magnetic field (supposedly) and if it is in a certain position versus the brake inhibitor, it can actually trigger that signal to cut out the motor, from the magnetic field. The potential 'fix' (until they get a new throttle design) is to either rotate the brake levers so they are nearly flat (horizontal), and not affected by the field. If that is a bad position for you, then move the throttle to the other side of the control pad, further away from the brake inhibitor. None of these are optimal solutions admittedly. Another solution is to purchase a trigger/lever throttle, that sits further away from the brake inhibitor, but remains in a much more user-friendly position. An image of the throttle I have found that works, is attached.

These are some 'bugs' on this first production run Surface is having with the Shred.

My throttle issue on my new Shred is that it only blips the motor and then cuts out. What I don’t understand is that I also bought a Rook at the same time which has the same setup and position as far as brakes, throttle, and controller. The Rook’s throttle works as designed with no problems. Have you actually fixed this throttle issue by rotating brake levers or repositioned the throttle?

 

[Deleted member 4210]

My throttle issue on my new Shred is that it only blips the motor and then cuts out. What I don’t understand is that I also bought a Rook at the same time which has the same setup and position as far as brakes, throttle, and controller. The Rook’s throttle works as designed with no problems. Have you actually fixed this throttle issue by rotating brake levers or repositioned

Either putting the brake handles near horizontal, or moving the throttle so it is about 1/2" in toward the center of the handle bar, should allow the magnetic field to not interfere with the inhibitor, and accidental 'activating' from the magnetic field. its not an ideal solution as the throttle will end up being in a less convenient position. A potentially better solution (IMHO) is to purchase a lever arm throttle, that sits lower, and away from the brake completely. You can source one here... https://em3ev.com/shop/left-type-2-thumb-throttle/. I'll be trying this out soon, and will report back.

Unfortunately, Surface has not provided any other solution to this, despite knowing about it for at least a month or longer.