Barry S
Well-Known Member
Before you make any modifications, inquire with Surface604. They may offer to swap it out or recommend a different charger.
Just got a Shred
- Thread starter DaveS
- Start date
DaveS
Member
dgstan,
I wouldn't leave the house while it's charging even if the charger were cool. There is only a very small risk of anything going wrong while charging, but be aware that there is still some risk. In fact, many people charge their packs outside on a cement or stone surface, or in their BBQ grill, or even in an ammo box.
I wouldn't leave the house while it's charging even if the charger were cool. There is only a very small risk of anything going wrong while charging, but be aware that there is still some risk. In fact, many people charge their packs outside on a cement or stone surface, or in their BBQ grill, or even in an ammo box.
patcheung
New Member
Just bought a Shred too and got almost 2 weeks ago. Ran into some hiccups with shipping, but the folks at Surface seem pretty cool, so I think they're prepared to fix the issues.
Still haven't had time to ride it much yet, I'll post some impressions soon!
I'm curious, does anyone know how to override the speed limit with throttle? I realized they have this throttle limited to 20mph to keep it within a certain class...but wondering if there's a way to make it go faster just using throttle. A large reason I chose the Shred was for the 28mph max, but I found it somewhat hard to reach that speed be pedaling. The crank needs to spin really fast to reach that speed...almost felt like I needed one or two more higher gears. Maybe I just need to work on my sprinting skills though
Still haven't had time to ride it much yet, I'll post some impressions soon!
I'm curious, does anyone know how to override the speed limit with throttle? I realized they have this throttle limited to 20mph to keep it within a certain class...but wondering if there's a way to make it go faster just using throttle. A large reason I chose the Shred was for the 28mph max, but I found it somewhat hard to reach that speed be pedaling. The crank needs to spin really fast to reach that speed...almost felt like I needed one or two more higher gears. Maybe I just need to work on my sprinting skills though
DaveS
Member
I don't know of a way to increase the throttle max speed. You do indeed have to pedal fast to get to 28 mph, but you don't have to pedal hard. The sensor is supposed to be a torque and cadence sensor, and it does seem to act like it. When you are going slow the amount of torque you provide seems to dominate the motor control loop. But when you are pedaling fast, you can pretty easily get up to 28 just by keeping up with the crank speed. It takes a while because your not helping much, and the motor is nearing it's top end, but as long as you have a long enough road, you'll get there pretty easily. I agree with you though, I could use a little more top end gear ratio, at the expense of a little less low end. If I was in more of a hurry, I would consider swapping the 38 tooth crank gear to a 42. In a couple weeks I plan to take my Shred up a very steep trail and I'll really get to exercise those low gears. I'll see if I change my tune.
BTW - I'm using the bike primarily as a commuter with some offroad on the way home and on the weekends. I didn't want to saddle it down with a huge rack and panniers. I prefer a front basket where I can just throw my jacket and water bottle. I don't lug a computer back and forth. The options for a front rack/basket are rather limited, especially with a suspension fork.
I ran across this at the local bike shop and it looks like it was made specifically for the Shred. It fits absolutely perfect, is removeably, and doesn't make any noise at all (once I removed the handle). I realize this isn't for everyone, but it works for me.
https://www.topeak.com/global/en/products/basket/861-basket-front-(w--fixer-3e)
I ran across this at the local bike shop and it looks like it was made specifically for the Shred. It fits absolutely perfect, is removeably, and doesn't make any noise at all (once I removed the handle). I realize this isn't for everyone, but it works for me.
https://www.topeak.com/global/en/products/basket/861-basket-front-(w--fixer-3e)
Barry S
Well-Known Member
Hey, whatever works for you. It's your bike. I've got a rear basket on mine. I prefer not to wear a backpack, so I just drop it in the basket and go. Not as fashionable as panniers, but functional and much cheaper. I've used Topeak's racks and trunk bag in the past and had no issues. If you get this model, keep an eye on that plastic mount. I'm guessing that will be the weakest link.
patcheung
New Member
I totally agree, my cadence needed to keep up with the crank speed is fast but not hard. I'm just not used to pedaling so quick.
Yea, I haven't done any inclines on it yet...maybe these gear ratios would feel more appropriate on trails. Let me know how it goes and if you do change the crank gear. I'd like to hear how that plays out.
I'm not sure I'd feel too comfortable riding this bike much faster than 28 MPH, at least not on surface streets. I'm not sure it's legal to ride it that fast anywhere other than the street here in California. I'm already getting people turning in front of me because they don't realize how fast I'm going (maybe it's the granny basket I put on the front that makes them think I'm slow?).
Anyhow, here's a couple shots of the basket, both installed and removed. It looks bigger in the pictures than IRL. Being above the shock means it hardly bounces at all. I was going pretty good offroad and it held up fine. I doesn't come close to contacting any part of the bike.
Anyhow, here's a couple shots of the basket, both installed and removed. It looks bigger in the pictures than IRL. Being above the shock means it hardly bounces at all. I was going pretty good offroad and it held up fine. I doesn't come close to contacting any part of the bike.
Attachments
I found this:
I haven't changed any of the password-protected settings. I don't know the password. From what I've read, you need to contact S604 to get it.
ETA: The password is out there if you wanna go look. Hint: Search for the name of the motor (Bafang DP C07.UART).
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DaveS
Member
To be clear, DP C07.UART is the display, not the motor. Also, the OP pointed out that you need to go into the passworded section to change the max speed. I could not change the speed limit with throttle though, only the max PAS speed. If you do figure out how to change the speed limit of the throttle, that would be interesting to know.
Switching subjects a bit, how is everyone's battery? I am having trouble getting an accurate reading from the 10 segment fuel gauge on the display. Mine reads full right after a charge, but seems to go down a lot in between rides.
Switching subjects a bit, how is everyone's battery? I am having trouble getting an accurate reading from the 10 segment fuel gauge on the display. Mine reads full right after a charge, but seems to go down a lot in between rides.
patcheung
New Member
Exactly. The normal password-protected area of the UART doesn't allow you to remove the throttle limit. I wonder if there's another password that would unlock a menu option to directly remove that limit. While googling, I did find a potential indirect way of doing it. Seems like if you change the wheel size to and speed readout to km...it might trick the system into letting you go faster with the throttle. I'll try and report back when the weather gets better here. I guess I'd also need to get a speedometer on my phone to see if doing this is actually accurate.
Speaking of battery...I'm a newb. Are we supposed to keep this plugged in at all time when not in use...or just top it off and let it sit unplugged?
DaveS
Member
There is a lot of information about treating your batteries correctly. The quick summary is...
Charge them all the way up, and ride the bike to almost all the way down for the first several charges. The S604 guys said the BMS configures itself this way when it is new.
After that, you can either continue doing that (which stresses the batteries a little and reduces the number of life cycles, but gives you max range). Or you can charge them up to 80% and then ride them down to 20% which is less stressful for the batteries, but limits your range (you only get to use 60% of the battery capacity). If you do the 80/20 charging, you should charge them all they way up to 100% at least every few weeks, because the balancing is only done at full charge, and you want to keep your cells balanced.
I would not advise keeping the pack on the charger. Keeping your cells at 100% for long periods of time is very stressing and will reduce their life, not to mention it is a waste of electricity.
If you do top off your pack, you should ride it soon.
There is a lot more information on this both here on EBS and on other electric powered vehicle sites. I encourage you to continue to learn more when you can.
Charge them all the way up, and ride the bike to almost all the way down for the first several charges. The S604 guys said the BMS configures itself this way when it is new.
After that, you can either continue doing that (which stresses the batteries a little and reduces the number of life cycles, but gives you max range). Or you can charge them up to 80% and then ride them down to 20% which is less stressful for the batteries, but limits your range (you only get to use 60% of the battery capacity). If you do the 80/20 charging, you should charge them all they way up to 100% at least every few weeks, because the balancing is only done at full charge, and you want to keep your cells balanced.
I would not advise keeping the pack on the charger. Keeping your cells at 100% for long periods of time is very stressing and will reduce their life, not to mention it is a waste of electricity.
If you do top off your pack, you should ride it soon.
There is a lot more information on this both here on EBS and on other electric powered vehicle sites. I encourage you to continue to learn more when you can.
Mine reads full right after a charge, but seems to go down a lot in between rides.
Hey I have had my new Shred for about a week I guess. Have not got to ride for a couple days and notice that the display battery gauge keeps getting lower on mine also.
Would not think there could be that much parasitic drain on the battery just from leaving on the bike. Will investigate more.
Hey I have had my new Shred for about a week I guess. Have not got to ride for a couple days and notice that the display battery gauge keeps getting lower on mine also.
Would not think there could be that much parasitic drain on the battery just from leaving on the bike. Will investigate more.
DaveS
Member
Good data, thanks Seeker. I talked to S604 today and they said it's ok to measure the pack voltage at the two big pins (labeled + and - on the 5 pin output port) with a multi-meter, so I'm going to start tracking pack voltage compared to the fuel gauge on the display. Will report back after a while.
Edit: I should add that if you attempt to take voltage readings with a multi-meter, you must avoid touching the two probes together. Not only will you likely fuse your probes together, but you could damage your battery. I have two small insulated wires I use as probes and the only conducting part is right at the tip, so if I stick them into the +/- sockets there is no bare wire exposed, thus no chance of a short.
Edit: I should add that if you attempt to take voltage readings with a multi-meter, you must avoid touching the two probes together. Not only will you likely fuse your probes together, but you could damage your battery. I have two small insulated wires I use as probes and the only conducting part is right at the tip, so if I stick them into the +/- sockets there is no bare wire exposed, thus no chance of a short.
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Hey Dave, thanks for checking. So will you check pack voltage then put back on bike for awhile and check it again later? Or just keep checking pack off bike? Guess we really should check both ways.
And yeah I have one of those crazy fast Lunacycle apocalypse e-scooter with 21 Ahr pack. Saw what happened when another owner shorted the input connector with needle nose pliers trying to tighten the connector nut. So you definately have to be careful.
Please keep us up to date with your findings.
And yeah I have one of those crazy fast Lunacycle apocalypse e-scooter with 21 Ahr pack. Saw what happened when another owner shorted the input connector with needle nose pliers trying to tighten the connector nut. So you definately have to be careful.
Please keep us up to date with your findings.
patcheung
New Member
I might be experiencing the same thing you guys are regarding battery. When I got mine a bit over a week ago, I did a full charge...and put about 1 mile on it to test it out. Then I let it sit for about 10 days unplugged with display off, and when I turned it on today to take it for a longer ride...the battery meter on the display is blinking empty. Is that normal? Weird thing is in the battery, there’s a little button with LED readout that shows all 4 bars green. Not sure if the battery somehow got depleted in 10 days of non-use, or if the battery meter on the display is wrong.
DaveS
Member
Yes, seems like the same thing. Mine goes down 1 bar per day. So your 10 bars in 10 days sounds just like my results.
Also same in that it seems different from 4 LED readout on the battery. My battery LEDs always show more. When I asked s604 about that they said that they wont agree because the 4 LEDs measure something else. They didn't say what.
If your battery is still in the same state (blinking empty) can you please do me 2 favors to help diagnose.
1) Ride it around the block and see if it acts sluggish (when mine was blinking it wouldn't go to full 20 mph on the throttle, only about 12mph)
2) Charge it back up to full and see how long it takes. I am suspecting that that the display is wrong and that the battery is still nearly full, so it should only take 1/2 hr to 1 hr to charge) When I measure the voltage on the pack it is way higher than the display indicates it should be and usually charges back up pretty quick. Not like the 5 or 6 hours it would take if it really was empty.
Also same in that it seems different from 4 LED readout on the battery. My battery LEDs always show more. When I asked s604 about that they said that they wont agree because the 4 LEDs measure something else. They didn't say what.
If your battery is still in the same state (blinking empty) can you please do me 2 favors to help diagnose.
1) Ride it around the block and see if it acts sluggish (when mine was blinking it wouldn't go to full 20 mph on the throttle, only about 12mph)
2) Charge it back up to full and see how long it takes. I am suspecting that that the display is wrong and that the battery is still nearly full, so it should only take 1/2 hr to 1 hr to charge) When I measure the voltage on the pack it is way higher than the display indicates it should be and usually charges back up pretty quick. Not like the 5 or 6 hours it would take if it really was empty.
