Is it possble to covert 26x4 to 3 onch tire and rim combo

0, 00, 000 are the wire gauge increments, that last one is sometimes called a fatty.

Well that makes sense. 🤔

What's bigger than nothing? Two nothings.

Three nothings is even bigger !!😁

I wonder what gauge this wire would be?? 🤔
That's A Lot of nothing.
Maybe even too much nothing to measure ?? 😁



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Here's the link to the nipple sizes, half way down the page. Maybe it is just moped category that it applies.

Yeah, I don't know what's going on?

And I don't trust myself to try and take measurements with an accuracy of less than a mm.



I wanted to put a new barrel plug on battery charger because the connector was getting sloppy, but I couldn't figure out what size pin was on my battery's charge port,..


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I ended up buying this adapter to use the end that fit,..

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Both ends of adapter cord worked??

I just used the end that felt tighter.

I sure couldn't tell for lookin. 😁
 
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00 is pronounced double aught and 000 is triple aught.

I found out that there's 0000 available as well,..


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I think that I'll buy me some me some quad aught wire for my ebike? 😁


AI search says that the 36" Golden Gate Bridge cables would have a AWG number of about -1



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Choosing a logarithmic scale to measure wire diameter is stupid.

If they simply counted up as the wire got thicker, it would be a linear scale that counts in a straight line.


I'm just used to it, but still irritates me. 😁
 

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I kinda gave up on the project as well. I'm just going to use my old front rim if I do anything.
From what I understand, "made in Taiwan" is a good thing, it's not the same as "made in China"




I'm not sure about that?
I "measured" my spoke nipples with my spoke wrench,..


View attachment 212173


My front wheel has 13 gauge nipples. 14 wouldn't fit, and 12 was too loose.

So I guess that I'd need to measure my spoke diameter to find out if the nipples are drilled and tapped for 13 or 14 gauge spokes?
(if that is how it works?)


I've got this spoke measuring tool as well,..


View attachment 212174numeral


It looks like it's mm instead of the gauge measurements??

(The "gauge" system is stupid anyway. A fatter spoke should be a larger gauge number. Wire gauge is just as stupid. A Big Fat wire is "0" gauge. What would an even fatter wire measure? Does it go into negatives or fractions after Zero Gauge?)
it adds numerals to the "ought",1/0.2/0 etc
 
it adds numerals to the "ought",1/0.2/0 etc

Ohh OK.
So there are some numerals involved.

I thought it was just an endless string of zeros until you finally reach absolute zero, then it starts going towards a negative value.

(It's still a stupid way to count though. 😁)
 
Ohh OK.
So there are some numerals involved.

I thought it was just an endless string of zeros until you finally reach absolute zero, then it starts going towards a negative value.

(It's still a stupid way to count though. 😁)
agree,know what some say is on the other side of absolute zero? absolute heat( I don't believe it,however the little egg sitting there ,KABOOM! you never know.
 
Got the micrometer out and measured the spokes on the 140 and 170# Wired ebikes with the Hentach 2000w motor the rear spokes are 10 ga. The front spokes on the drive 1500w motor and nondrive hub are 12 ga. Surprise!

Buchanans website shows 10 to 12 ga nipples have same outside diameter of .236.
 
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I'm done with digging around in that rabbit hole.

I'd just end up spending a couple hundred dollars on parts that don't fit, especially when I don't trust myself to measure anything with any sort of accuracy.



I suppose that I could just simply swap the motor from my first ebike into my new ebike, and just reuse the spokes, nipples, and rim, but then I'd probably end up two broken e-bikes. 😁
 
So I took apart the 26 x 4 fatbike front tire. Has the regular hub, no electric. Was hoping the spokes and such could be used on the Husky 26" rim. Calculation says the spokes need 4mm more length. So close. Surprise, Husky has the spokes, 258mm in stock with nipples for $50, so order on the way, and that is for 75 spokes.

Those Husky rims are nice. That would be the option if someone wanted to change from the fatbike 26 x 4 to another 26 with slimmer tires, the inner dia of the Husky is 31mm. It is a nice strong rim with the inner channel on both sides inside the rim for strength. 12 ga spokes holes verified, and the larger hole inside for the nipple is the same size as on the fatbike rim.

The beat goes on. So excited. Get to lace up a 3 cross.
 
There it is. I got tired of waiting for the schwalbe pick up to show up so went down to wally's place and bought their in stock cruiser special for $20. Not a bad tire really, 40-65 psi recommendation. The white wall is a nice touch:). The fender may look a little funky, that is as low as it will go.

The handling is much improved, much. The shocks work as it should, better than I thought it would. I could not get the front fork to wobble. With the 4" tire it was very easy and dangerous really for someone without experience, as it is something that could get out of control. The steering is quicker also, or lighter. I believe the miles per kilowatt should improve also.

Getting ready to do the back tire.

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,.. The shocks work as it should, better than I thought it would.

I don't know what shocks those are, but my RST Guide forks with coil springs work fine.
It is a spring shock that uses a bit of "binding stiction" inside the stanchions as dampers, but they work fine.

I didn't notice the stiction until I looked for it.

My rear rim (26" X 4") had a "warp/kink" in it because it wasn't joined together squarely at the seam, but I didn't notice that either until I looked for it.

I never rode over 20 mph though, and I have no idea how it would handle at 40-50 mph?
 
There it is. I got tired of waiting for the schwalbe pick up to show up so went down to wally's place and bought their in stock cruiser special for $20. Not a bad tire really, 40-65 psi recommendation. The white wall is a nice touch:). The fender may look a little funky, that is as low as it will go.

The handling is much improved, much. The shocks work as it should, better than I thought it would. I could not get the front fork to wobble. With the 4" tire it was very easy and dangerous really for someone without experience, as it is something that could get out of control. The steering is quicker also, or lighter. I believe the miles per kilowatt should improve also.

Getting ready to do the back tire.

View attachment 212766
I started crashing my fat tire bikes regularly so I went narrowe,could it haver and never looked back( maybe it was just me) I seen a 4.8er at a bike shop and had to wonder-why? One other thing the last 4 "er I had was almost 10 mph slower coasting down a 40 mph plus hill could the tires have that much rolling resistance( knobbies of course)
 
I don't know what shocks those are, but my RST Guide forks with coil springs work fine.
It is a spring shock that uses a bit of "binding stiction" inside the stanchions as dampers, but they work fine.

I didn't notice the stiction until I looked for it.

My rear rim (26" X 4") had a "warp/kink" in it because it wasn't joined together squarely at the seam, but I didn't notice that either until I looked for it.

I never rode over 20 mph though, and I have no idea how it would handle at 40-50 mph?
Mine are the RSTs. Work pretty good really from the short run i made with the smaller tire. There is movement fore and aft without compression over some of the terrain so I wouldn't call them top notch stuff.

The 4" rim I took off was pretty stout. It has three ribs inside the double wall, so four spaces. Makes for a pretty stout rim.
I started crashing my fat tire bikes regularly so I went narrowe,could it haver and never looked back( maybe it was just me) I seen a 4.8er at a bike shop and had to wonder-why? One other thing the last 4 "er I had was almost 10 mph slower coasting down a 40 mph plus hill could the tires have that much rolling resistance( knobbies of course)
I don't personally see any need for the 4" wheel. The smaller have so many more advantages if the 4" isn't really needed.
 
I started crashing my fat tire bikes regularly so I went narrowe,could it haver and never looked back


I didn't want a fat bike.
I thought they looked stupid, and didn't look functional, but I was convinced by my BIL that I Simply Must get a Fat Bike.
It's All About Fat Bikes !!
If you want an E-bike, you Need to get a Fat one !!

I decided that if it Had to be a Fat bike, then I'm at least going to get one with street tires on it, so I bought the ET.CYCLE T1000


My BIL has since changed his mind, and he bought a full suspension ebike with normal tires.
He doesn't ride his Fat bike anymore.
 
,.. There is movement fore and aft without compression over some of the terrain so I wouldn't call them top notch stuff.

I noticed that too, but it's also happening with my Fancy (but not Top Notch) Suntour downhill forks.
I look straight down the stanchions while riding, and I see them moving fore and aft.

I originally bought double shoulder inverted air forks for it, but I ordered them before my new ebike arrived, and the steerer tube turned out to be too short,..



Then I found out that the "no-name" forks didn't stand up to bad weather and were prone to failure.
It was recommended to buy Suntour forks.

I was considering buying Surron double shoulder forks, (also recommended. Bee, I think they were called?) but I ended up buying the Suntour AION downhill forks.

I'm pretty sure that double shoulder forks are A Lot less likely to wobble front to back?
(I never did install those BOLANY forks, but they will fit my first ebike.)


I don't personally see any need for the 4" wheel. The smaller have so many more advantages if the 4" isn't really needed.

They're only better for deep sand and snow.
They suck at everything else. 😁
 

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This is where it gets weird, or wired.:). The rear wheel uses 10 ga spoke and nipple, the new rims are made for 12 ga. I had thought to drill the rim for the new hardware but looking at the pieces the holes would be pretty big, especially inside to get the nipple head through. The holes in the hub are 3.5mm, which is right for the 10 ga spoke but prob too big for the 12 ga. Buchanans makes a 10 ga swaged to 12 ga spoke at the price of $2.68 ea, times 75 for both bikes equals a $200 bill, and I don't think that includes nipples. Just money right? Husky has the 10 ga spokes at the right length for $.39 ea with nipple, isn't that a kick in the pants?

Decisions, decisions.

Here's the Wired 10 ga nipple on the left, the Wired 12 ga nipple, and then the Richman 12 ga nipple, and the difference between the 10 ga and 12 ga spoke. That's a pretty good jump from 12 ga to 10 ga.

The hub motors have the same dimensions, rear wheel on both bikes and the front on one. So if I could use the 10 ga spokes x 108 from Husky at .39 ea that would be a big savings.

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