Hypermiling - settings to modify to get extreme range

Interesting thread. The best I could manage on my mid drive with assistance set to its lowest level was 2.5w/km over a 40km route. There was 350m of elevation gain, so a pretty gentle course. That extrapolates out to 200km range for the 500w battery, assuming I had the time and patience to sit on the bike for 7 hours. That was at a reasonable 22-25 km/h, but I was putting in fair leg effort.
 
Interesting thread. The best I could manage on my mid drive with assistance set to its lowest level was 2.5w/km over a 40km route. There was 350m of elevation gain, so a pretty gentle course. That extrapolates out to 200km range for the 500w battery, assuming I had the time and patience to sit on the bike for 7 hours. That was at a reasonable 22-25 km/h, but I was putting in fair leg effort.
What bike do you have?
 
Everything I can think of has been mentioned, save one...

Brake less, coast more. Cut your pedaling earlier when you need to stop/slow, then you won't be wasting the assist by braking.

Also windscreens, but if you're already going only 15 mph, it probably won't make a huge difference.
 
Hey that's good to know. I have been eyeing the Thrive + for my wife and it's pretty similar to your bike. I was a bit concerned about the 375 wh battery being a bit too small, but after my experience with the Creo and reading about experiences like yours I don't think I'm as concerned. I might get her the Thrive+ later this fall.

So far I've gotten about 1,200 km's of riding on the Creo in. I know it might sound funny but that's not enough riding yet to know how I feel about the range. The issue isn't so much that I haven't ridden enough km's. The issue is more I have not varied my type of riding enough to know.

I generally ride with two different groups of friends. One is a group of dads whose sons play hockey with my son i.e. the hockey dads. This group is more casual and they live close to me so I've ridden with them a lot more recently. The group is casual and not nearly as serious about riding. We typically average about 21 km/hr. and I've found that riding with this group and minimal elevation gain that generally I'm using less than 2 wh/km. So the range would be really far. We did a ride last week that was 50.2 km's, average speed of 21.9 km/hr. with 395 meters of elevation gain and that used 25% of the battery or 80 wh. Extrapolated that works out to a barely believable 200 km's.

The other group I ride with is friends from years ago who started racing and are generally Cat 3 riders. Though now we're all in our 50s (though some younger ones ride with us). This group spends more on their bikes, more serious about riding and generally go faster. This group will do average speeds more around 25 - 32 km/hr. most of the time. Due to Corona virus I have only had 1 ride with this group on the Creo. I think my ride ended up being around 3 wh/km. I can't remember the exact figure. But it's an odd thing because the motor cuts out at 32 km/hr. so if I'm riding fast with this group then once we get drafting and going fast I could be riding a significant amount of time with the motor off. But again due to Corona virus no one is out drafting now even if you're riding in small groups.

What I will say for certain is that I was concerned that the 320 wh battery in the Creo would be far too small. I would be willing to say that is not a problem and even if I was riding in fast groups. I think having a range extender would give me enough range that I would give out before the battery power.

But I'm eager to get out on some fast rides where we're hammering hard. I want to see what kind of efficiency I get when we're riding full gas for a couple of hours. It might be far worse, but if I'm drafting and we're above 32 km/hr. for reasonable amounts of time I might be surprised with the results. I'm eager to find out and I really have no idea which way it will go.
 
I don't think speed is much of an influence on range because even top speed on a bike is pretty darned slow compared to say a car or truck which has much more wind resistance. Drafting is another matter, and we're talking about almost no wind when you do that.

You might want to see my post about getting more range on my battery charge by going faster vs going slower. Yep, I measured it too.

Basically two factors seem to come into play. 1- when I'm hitting a a good pedal cadence, which is very efficient, I tend to keep it going even if a little grade or head wind is encountered. The extra speed helps w/ grades too. 2- by going fast I am riding the bike less time, so the battery is used less time. Probably the faster pedal cadence is mostly responsible, but both come into play.

This all sounds a little crazy and counter intuitive in one manner, but makes perfect sense in another, and you can't argue w/ the volt readings I'm getting. I always get home w/ more juice in the battery by doing this vs granny riding. It's been liberating because for years I stressed about range and rode like an old lady. Now I just get going and keep it going. A lot of battery usage comes from start up when the bike is stopped, so I make sure to get the bike rolling nicely before applying juice.
 
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I don't really have much technical knowledge, I just love cycling! So here is my story...

I was new to e bikes in April 2018 and within a month I completed my first 100 mile ride on my 2018 Giant Road E+1 Pro, in July 2018 I managed 117 miles! I started thinking it would be cool to do a 150 mile ride on one charge! So I waited for the perfect day to give it a try, that day was August 5th 2018 when the weather was just perfect for the ride I had planned! I made sure my tyres were inflated properly and set off on my adventure!

The temp was around 16C and there was a 15mph westerly wind, ideal conditions for a ride up to the east coast of Scotland! My plan was to use the wind to get me to my destination 70 miles away without using any or very little assistance, my bike is ideal for this as it has 22 gears and is only 44lbs, I am only 168lbs which also helps!

When I reached my destination I had 96% battery to get me home with just over 80 miles to cover, I had to be mindful of keeping enough for my last 20 miles which were pretty hilly! Thankfully I made it with a little to spare (3% if I remember correctly), 152.4 miles covered with an average speed of 14.3mph and 7,275ft of elevation! It was a long day in the saddle but it was just so much fun, my thoughts started turning to attempting 200 miles but I think that would be pushing it :p

At the time of my ride I was just using the standard settings as I didn't know about the app to adjust the tuning, I only used the eco setting on my ride which gives 100% assistance, I now have it set at 50% so I might attempt that 200 miler before I get too old, I'm 62 now so I'm still young enough;) See attached image for the stats!

EDIT : I should add that my bike has a 15.5mph cut off which certainly helps for longer distances!
 

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The max range I've achieved on my 62 pound Pedego with 750 watt battery is 61 miles. I did this by reducing weight to a minimum, using the lowest PAS setting, using as much pedal effort as possible, keeping the speed under 10 mph, inflating the tires to max and riding on a smooth surface and riding in both directions to compensate for slope and wind. Nothing exciting here, all of this has been discussed above.

I fooled around with this mileage challenge quite a bit when I first bought the bike. I eventually came to the conclusion that all this effort produced the same result that I was able to accomplish with my 30 pound Trek conventional bike. With the pedal effort the same on both bikes, all the energy in the battery simply compensated for the extra weight of the e-bike. Of course this will vary greatly with fitness level and type of bike.

The mileage challenge was fun at first and great exercise but at some point, I realized the reason I bought the e-bike was to be able to enjoy the ride without busting my a**. Now, if I want extra mileage, I carry a spare battery.
 
Steve, what forum is your other post in? I'm curious and would like to read it. I've ridden my Juiced CCS about 8,000 km's and on that bike I've noticed that if I'm riding around 38 km/hr. or more that the battery certainly drains a lot faster due to the upright seating position. This link says that at 20 mph, 80% of your energy is fighting wind resistance.


It wouldn't matter if the energy is coming from you or the motor.
 
You may laugh, but I do turn off the assist when on flat, downhill, or a slight incline with a good tailwind. I bought the Gazelle because it felt like a well built acoustic bike. It goes OK on the flat with no assist.

What I have an ebike for is the hills. My part of the country is at the foot of mountains. Most nice rides require going uphill and some of the uphills are battery suckers.

I haven't drained the battery on this bike. In fact, I haven't ridden enough to get it below the halfway mark. So far, the longest ride was 35 miles--half up, half back down. I rode from an elevation of 700 feet to 2300 feet, using the lowest assist that I could. I ride galoompa galoompa style--not in a hurry. Maybe that helps?
 
Tips for hypermiling:
1. Always be pedaling, except when you need to slow down.
2. Coast. To slow down, ease off the pedals earlier and coast. This also reduces brake wear. Don't accelerate to a stop like drivers seem to do ...
3. Turn off the assist when you can hit your desired speed without it, eg downhill, in slow traffic, etc.
4. Tuck down when it is safe, especially on downhills.
5. Use fast rolling tires like the Marathon Efficiency and Conti Contact Urban.
6. Throttle: When you need assist only intermittently, turn it off and use the throttle instead.
7. Gearing: always be in the right gear to optimize your pedal input. On an ebike, the hub drives at least, it's very easy to ignore this and just let the motor pick up the slack.

I started playing around and I'm getting about 8.4 wh/mi on my Juiced CCS2. The base assist level is pretty high at ~250w, which is my go to setting. 400w if I'm going up a steep hill.

Hypermiling means more range, more exercise, and less wear and tear on your bike!
 
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Tips for hypermiling:
1. Always be pedaling, except when you need to slow down.
2. Coast. To slow down, ease off the pedals earlier and coast. This also reduces brake wear. Don't accelerate to a stop like drivers seem to do ...
3. Turn off the assist when you can hit your desired speed without it, eg downhill, in slow traffic, etc.
4. Tuck down when it is safe, especially on downhills.
5. Use fast rolling tires like the Marathon Efficiency and Conti Contact Urban.
6. Throttle: When you need assist only intermittently, turn it off and use the throttle instead.

I started playing around and I'm getting about 8.4 wh/mi on my Juiced CCS2.

Hypermiling means more range, more exercise, and less wear and tear on your bike!
All good tips.

Another I found is to use cruise control if your bike is so equipped. If not, there are devices available that will add CC to any bike with a throttle. The idea is to use your pedal effort to assist the bike rather than it assisting you. This eliminates wasteful current spikes caused by irregularities in pedal effort. I get an 8 to 14% range improvement using this technique. Of course this will vary with different bikes and riding styles.
 
FatBike Hypermiling: In July 2018, I wanted to see just how much mileage I could squeeze out of my Yamaha 400wh, Yamaha PW drive, Haibike Full FatSix fat tired, dual suspension ebike. I had already ridden some 40 to 60 mile rides but wanted to see if I could do a Century on that bike and battery. I pumped up the Schwalbe Jumbo Jim fat tires to the max air pressure rating of 30 psi & set about riding north from home to access the Delaware & Raritan Canal towpath and the Delaware Lehigh Canal towpath which was across the Delaware River in the state of Pennsylvania. They are an ideal riding area for they are water-level, with very little gradient between locks; even though the geography thru which these canals run through are hilly areas.

Final Thoughts on Fat Bike Hypermiling:

1. At the end of the day, some 12-13 plus hours of riding, I had traveled 95.4 Miles and had 18% battery power remaining in the 400wh battery.

2. I rode exclusively in the Eco and Eco+ power positions, with a few rare times of engaging the High power position. And in the lower power positions, I was basically pedaling the 60 plus pound bike that it was. For my own satisfaction, I proved to myself that I could get over 100 miles on a full battery charge on that 400wh battery. But to what end? It would be akin to pedaling a gas moped exclusively under one's own pedal power, briefly engaging the gas motor on occassion for this grade or that. The quest to explore how much "mileage" out of a battery was fun to think about. Actually doing it on the trail......meh......it was no different than pedaling that same course on my Specialzied Fatboy analog fatty.

3. It convinced me to purchase a spare 500wh battery & I backed that up with the purchase of 2 more. Now, on that same ebike, I could carry a potential of 1900wh should I choose to do so for an extra long trip. And now, I exclusively ride in the full asssist power position, doing my own fat bike version of Hypermiling by spinning the pedals with the lightest possible foot and leg pressure on the cranks, keeping a watchful eye on the power meter for excessive power use. And for that, spinning the pedals, keeping the speed below 15-16 mph to avoid punching thru that wall of wind at those speeds.......I can achieve a consistent, 40 miles on a fully charged 500wh battery riding only in that High Power position.

4. This is just one person's opinion about fatbikeing and hypermiling. It can be done. But it's not much different than trying to hypermile a gas powered moped in the quest to get 500 miles of range out of that tank of gas. It's a good learning lesson to see what can be squeezed out of a battery with careful use; in case for a future ride where you are a long ways away from a battery recharge source. But as for something that can be consistently done on a regular basis? I suppose if you are young and in peak physical condition. And in that case, maybe a trekking or bikepacking ebike would be more appropriate.

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Hypermiling at the halfway point of my journey; D&R Canal State Park, Milford, New Jersey. Some 47.5 miles in. Lotsa red clay dust from riding on the D&L towpath in PA, right across the Delaware River from the D&R.

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The final tally......95.4 miles on an e-fatbike

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With 18% battery charge left. I could have used that leftover power potential to climb out of some hills leading up and down to water level at the river & towpaths. But I was afraid to risk losing that power at the turnaround point as well as ensuring I got home with some power to assist me.
 
I read about Hypermiling one day in regards to vehicles. One technique was to accelerate up to say 50 mph and then coast down to 20 mph then repeat. People can get crazy fuel mileage, for example 50 mph out of a 3/4 ton diesel truck. To drive like this people would go out to get groceries at 2 am. I’m not sure if the accelerate and coast technique would help with an e bike or not.
 
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I read about Hypermiling one day in regards to vehicles. One technique was to accelerate up to say 50 mph and then coast down to 20 mph then repeat. People can get crazy fuel mileage, for example 50 mph out of a 3/4 ton diesel truck. To drive like this people would go out to get groceries at 2 am. I’m not sure if the accelerate and coast technique would help with an e bike or not.
I do this all the time, with e-bikes and analog bikes, but for downhills primarily. Turn off motor, go as fast as I can at start of downhill, then stop pedaling and get into as deep an aero tuck as possible.

Goal is to coast as long as I can, while conserving my physical energy, and saving battery and my effort for uphills.
 
If you are going to go to all that effort, it seems to me that it makes just as much sense to get a regular (non-electric) bike and just ride it. Your ride will literally be forty pounds lighter and your range will be limited by your own endurance and not a bunch of lithium-ion batteries.
 
If you are going to go to all that effort, it seems to me that it makes just as much sense to get a regular (non-electric) bike and just ride it. Your ride will literally be forty pounds lighter and your range will be limited by your own endurance and not a bunch of lithium-ion batteries.
It is a heresy! :D
It makes more sense to me to carry as many fully charged lithium-ion batteries as one is able to afford and carry, then ride the long distance with no worries :) Sounds like a joke Mr. Coffee but if I rode an acoustic that would be at some 8 mph and I would give up after 40 miles...Taking the train back home!

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That was my longest trad bike recorded ride when I was 55, and after my first (successful) angiopathy surgery...

I stopped even counting my Metric Centuries with e-bikes.
 
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If you are going to go to all that effort, it seems to me that it makes just as much sense to get a regular (non-electric) bike and just ride it. Your ride will literally be forty pounds lighter and your range will be limited by your own endurance and not a bunch of lithium-ion batteries.
But for the hills and wind...

I read about Hypermiling one day in regards to vehicles. One technique was to accelerate up to say 50 mph and then coast down to 20 mph then repeat. People can get crazy fuel mileage, for example 50 mph out of a 3/4 ton diesel truck. To drive like this people would go out to get groceries at 2 am. I’m not sure if the accelerate and coast technique would help with an e bike or not.

That works because a petrol car is most efficient at 50 mph or so. Electric vehicles are not. Air drag on a bike is logarithmic and quickly adds up at 20+ mph. There's also rolling resistance.
 
Wind resistance is roughly based on the square of your speed, so double your speed, quadruple the wind resistance.
 
Coast whenever you can. Do not try to maintain speed up hills or worse yet gain speed. Peddle clips to maintain power 360 degrees.
 
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