Hello Members this is my first post PLEASE HELP!

[alankesaussie]

Hello there from a new member

My son gifted me a 48V E-bike with twin batteries I think it may be a Sumono brand, Cargo type with 20" wheels it's displaying error E030 which I believe to be a comms error, I have checked all the plugs and cleaned same with circuit board cleaner and compressed air. I performed the multimeter test for the Mosfets, disconnected throttle etc etc still no joy. If there is any more tests I need to do please comment thanks

I am suspecting faulty LCD one of the reasons for this is that it does not appear to offer the headlight or horn function if that is applicable it also has 20 P type functions the LCD plug attached to the screen is male 8mm it has one centre pin and 5 surrounding pins only 5 wires exit this loom indicating the centre pin is for location purposes only.
The other cable attached to the LCD is the handlebar mounted Up>Down power On/Off combo switch my dilemma is identifying a replacement LCD as I am not sufficiently experienced to know what compatibility issues may befall me. I contacted a vendor that offered a replacement but it has thumb throttle and Up>Down function contained in the one unit which is fine by me if it all works OK

The last two pics are of this item he is offering

I have included pics to help clarify the type of LCD etc any help would be appreciated the hand made drawing is of the wire configuration as it exists this view is looking directly at the male plug exiting the LCH the first pic is of the actual plug itself on the bike

Kind regards and New years greetings from

Alan
Australia "Downunder"

 

[indianajo]

DIsplays and controllers have to match up, and with the suppliers being a country that doesn't do paperwork, there is zero chance of finding anything that matches. Exception a brand with huge market share, KT. ISO 9001 is not part of the ebike industry. Unless you go to the dealer, and then software revisions can make things incompatible from different production dates.
The sure solution is to buy a controller, display, brake handles, PAS pickup or torque pickup, throttle if any, all from the same manufacturer as a unit. The kit also has to match the plug and voltage on the motor, whatever that is. If the battery has some proprietary connector, sometimes that has to be cut off and replaced with something that you can actually buy without paying dealer markup. 1000% markup usually; proprietary connectors are patented for a reason.
Before I sunk $300 in this project, I would test the batteries to see if they are good. After full charge one should produce 15 A for an hour or almost. New batteries are $350-1200. I use a 15 ohm 650 w collection of resistors to test a 48 v battery. 10 ohm 450 w would be okay to test 36 v battery. Alligator clip leads help one bypass the connector. DVM tells you if the voltage holds up a reasonable time or collapses immediately (like two batteries I bought from amazon & ebay).
If the battery is not okay, to the scrapyard with it. My local government makes me pay to recycle a lithium battery. Reason dead e-bikes are free.

 

[Merle Nelson]

Welcome to EBR Alan. After Indianajo's post are you still having fun with your project?

Just teasing you a bit. If you have the patience to work through all that my hat will be off to you and I'll be excited to hear about your biking adventures. I'm afraid I would be searching for an Indianajo who lived near me to take over.

 

[alankesaussie]

DIsplays and controllers have to match up, and with the suppliers being a country that doesn't do paperwork, there is zero chance of finding anything that matches. Exception a brand with huge market share, KT. ISO 9001 is not part of the ebike industry. Unless you go to the dealer, and then software revisions can make things incompatible from different production dates.
The sure solution is to buy a controller, display, brake handles, PAS pickup or torque pickup, throttle if any, all from the same manufacturer as a unit. The kit also has to match the plug and voltage on the motor, whatever that is. If the battery has some proprietary connector, sometimes that has to be cut off and replaced with something that you can actually buy without paying dealer markup. 1000% markup usually; proprietary connectors are patented for a reason.
Before I sunk $300 in this project, I would test the batteries to see if they are good. After full charge one should produce 15 A for an hour or almost. New batteries are $350-1200. I use a 15 ohm 650 w collection of resistors to test a 48 v battery. 10 ohm 450 w would be okay to test 36 v battery. Alligator clip leads help one bypass the connector. DVM tells you if the voltage holds up a reasonable time or collapses immediately (like two batteries I bought from amazon & ebay).
If the battery is not okay, to the scrapyard with it. My local government makes me pay to recycle a lithium battery. Reason dead e-bikes are free.

Thank you Indianajo for your most detailed and well structured reply, I was fearing as much!

Intuitively I had the feeling this was going to be a nightmare after google searches etc were all very vague and kept leading down more rabbit holes and to make matters worse the rabbits were not even down there. I will continue to test as best I am able at very least the take away from this is that it has re-sharpened my diagnostic skills a degree or two.

Best regards
Alan
Australia
Downunder

 

[alankesaussie]

Welcome to EBR Alan. After Indianajo's post are you still having fun with your project?

Just teasing you a bit. If you have the patience to work through all that my hat will be off to you and I'll be excited to hear about your biking adventures. I'm afraid I would be searching for an Indianajo who lived near me to take over.

Thanks Merle I do like a bit of humour I will continue to test etc until the trail turns cold


Best regards

Alan
Australia
Downunder

 

[rich c]

That plastic plug in the first pic looks horrible. No idea how the inside of it gets in that kind of shape? First thing to check is battery voltage. Then where voltage is at and where it is not. You don't say anything about the pedal assist working. The most common failure is the controller, followed by the throttle. I don't like the look of the soldering between the blue/green and blue/red wires on the controller. Is the solder touching both connectors?

 

[harryS]

Please get the user manual for the original display and confirm what Error 30 is on your ebike. If it's not a comm error, then it may be something easier to debug. Every display has its own table of error codes, all unique unless its from the same controller family.

A comm error is when the display cannot communicate with the controller. That could be a bad connector. You already know about the one at the handlebars. The harness should have a second connection by the controller. Check that.

Is this a used bike. If it were new, I guess you wouldn't have torn it open. Did it ever run in its present configuration?

Worse case, if you have to go that route, a brand new 20 amp controller, LCD, with throttle, and pedal sensors is about $120 USD shipped. Does your motor have a 9 pin quick disconnect plug? If it does, then at least the connection is common. Not that hard to wire up. Just like a DIY ebike,

 

[tomjasz]

FFS what did the OEM say? That should be your first move.

 

[Merle Nelson]

If you like humour Alan you should love Tom. He has just gotten out of a horrific nightmare situation of customer service that was ebike related. He has PTSD from it but we anticipate his cure within 40 to 60 years.

Tom I love your concise clarity!

 

[Taylor57]

Hello there from a new member

My son gifted me a 48V E-bike with twin batteries I think it may be a Sumono brand, Cargo type with 20" wheels it's displaying error E030 which I believe to be a comms error, I have checked all the plugs and cleaned same with circuit board cleaner and compressed air. I performed the multimeter test for the Mosfets, disconnected throttle etc etc still no joy. If there is any more tests I need to do please comment thanks

I am suspecting faulty LCD one of the reasons for this is that it does not appear to offer the headlight or horn function if that is applicable it also has 20 P type functions the LCD plug attached to the screen is male 8mm it has one centre pin and 5 surrounding pins only 5 wires exit this loom indicating the centre pin is for location purposes only.
The other cable attached to the LCD is the handlebar mounted Up>Down power On/Off combo switch my dilemma is identifying a replacement LCD as I am not sufficiently experienced to know what compatibility issues may befall me. I contacted a vendor that offered a replacement but it has thumb throttle and Up>Down function contained in the one unit which is fine by me if it all works OK

The last two pics are of this item he is offering

I have included pics to help clarify the type of LCD etc any help would be appreciated the hand made drawing is of the wire configuration as it exists this view is looking directly at the male plug exiting the LCH the first pic is of the actual plug itself on the bike

Kind regards and New years greetings from

Alan
Australia "Downunder"

Lets see a pic of the bike so we can determine if it's worth salvaging!!

 

[Merle Nelson]

Good thought. On some bikes even if you had to go all new electronics it would be worth it.

 

[Taylor57]

Good thought. On some bikes even if you had to go all new electronics it would be worth it.

Thank you

 

[alankesaussie]

Please get the user manual for the original display and confirm what Error 30 is on your ebike. If it's not a comm error, then it may be something easier to debug. Every display has its own table of error codes, all unique unless its from the same controller family.

A comm error is when the display cannot communicate with the controller. That could be a bad connector. You already know about the one at the handlebars. The harness should have a second connection by the controller. Check that.

Is this a used bike. If it were new, I guess you wouldn't have torn it open. Did it ever run in its present configuration?

Worse case, if you have to go that route, a brand new 20 amp controller, LCD, with throttle, and pedal sensors is about $120 USD shipped. Does your motor have a 9 pin quick disconnect plug? If it does, then at least the connection is common. Not that hard to wire up. Just like a DIY ebike,

Thanks Harry therein lies part of the problem I don't know how to find the original display I googled all the info I could find on it with no luck

Thanks for your advice Regards Alan

 

[alankesaussie]

If you like humour Alan you should love Tom. He has just gotten out of a horrific nightmare situation of customer service that was ebike related. He has PTSD from it but we anticipate his cure within 40 to 60 years.

Tom I love your concise clarity!

Nice one Merle! Humour can be a saviour in some of these tedious jobs

Regards Alan

 

[harryS]

Thanks Harry therein lies part of the problem I don't know how to find the original display I googled all the info I could find on it with no luck

Then you're just guessing. Which leads to the question asked for another earlier. Is there any functionality or did your son give you a broken ebike. Sometimes, a controller has enough smarts to run with a broken controller, or it can be jumpered to run w/o a controller.

Seems like you've already done a lot of tests on your own. Perhaps if that other vendor knows the details of your ebike, his solution will work.

Looking at your six pin plug. Is red 48V (54V at full charge) and black is ground? When the display turns on, does the blue rise to the same voltage as red? Some controllers will run w/o the display if you jumper the blue to battery power.
In my collection, four different brands. haven't seen one that won't.

 

[tomjasz]

If you like humour Alan you should love Tom. He has just gotten out of a horrific nightmare situation of customer service that was ebike related. He has PTSD from it but we anticipate his cure within 40 to 60 years.

Tom I love your concise clarity!

Man I wish you were local! We’d giggle for hours.

 

[Merle Nelson]

Your former post just made me bust out laughing. Sorry, I'm not meaning to be offensive toward you.

 

[tomjasz]

Your former post just made me bust out laughing. Sorry, I'm not meaning to be offensive toward you.

None taken. I’m thrilled to no longer feel encumbered and needing to watch my tongue. I can’t believe how much I’ve relaxed and enjoying my new found freedom of expression.

 

[Merle Nelson]

For the most part I feel like I will never really hit my comic stride unless we see a Zombie Apocalypse.

My wife says I have no sense of humor. I know that's not true. I just have such a dark sense of humor that when I'm just gettin revved up I look around and no one else is having fun anymore.

Edit: Okay, back to fixin that bike in three easy steps.

 

[alankesaussie]

Then you're just guessing. Which leads to the question asked for another earlier. Is there any functionality or did your son give you a broken ebike. Sometimes, a controller has enough smarts to run with a broken controller, or it can be jumpered to run w/o a controller.

Seems like you've already done a lot of tests on your own. Perhaps if that other vendor knows the details of your ebike, his solution will work.

Looking at your six pin plug. Is red 48V (54V at full charge) and black is ground? When the display turns on, does the blue rise to the same voltage as red? Some controllers will run w/o the display if you jumper the blue to battery power.
In my collection, four different brands. haven't seen one that won't.

Well here we go!

I decided to go in and dig deep I got the motor on the bench but before that I discovered broken and chaffed wires beneath the outer cable cover no big deal soldered them back and heat shrinked all tidied up now. It begs the question what other tests can I do to check motor functionality on the bench? as this would be prudent at this critical stage. I have tested for cable continuity with Multimeter from all 9 pins to the terminations inside the motor all tested OK far as I can tell I also took the opportunity to clean with circuit board cleaner etc all looks clean in there with no visible signs of water ingress corrosion etc.

By the way why do you Americans and Canadians say "Sodder" instead of Solder?? LOL look in Websters dictionary there is an L in there folks just sayin! no inter continental offence meant.

Best regards
Alan
Australia
Downunder