Good Stuff You Bought

Got a new seatpost.


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Sweet! My came with the boot too. It’s very hearty and I think it will protect very well. I’ll ride this on Monday.

Another cool thing we got was concert tickets. Heading out to see Rebelution. :)
 
I bought couple good stuffs. For my Bulls. Caliper lock and set of brake pads, note the tiny bolts that comes with it. I replaced them with stainless steel cotter pins to insure that they don't come off.
Da Bull has been stored in my shed for over two months. I'm gunna buy Eddy Current Tyres for it too pretty soon because Johnny Watts are showing excessive wear.
 

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I bought this leather patch for $20 buck for my saddle. Originally from my 1st ebike an aventon level cruiser style, I like it so much to DIY new upholstery. I did it on 1st attempt. Oh zoom on old saddle it is cracked.
 

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I bought brake pads shifter cable too!
I will install them tomorrow.
 

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I bought this leather patch for $20 buck for my saddle. Originally from my 1st ebike an aventon level cruiser style, I like it so much to DIY new upholstery. I did it on 1st attempt. Oh zoom on old saddle it is cracked.
Saddle looks great. Nice job!
 
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Finally purchased a brand new modern Electric Unicycle after buying a 5 year old second hand one to learn on.

All I can say is once you learn how to ride them it’s so much more fun than an ebike as it’s just like flying/floating but you do have everyone staring at you as it’s such a novel transport method.

No more worrying about locking my ebike up as it has a trolley handle to take it into the shops, no more worrying about how to transport it on a car as I just put it inside as it’s so small. Plus it can out climb any ebike and leave them for dust as they are speed demons with this model breaking 50mph.

And also you can put a seat on them and ride seated just like an ebike with both hands free to eat,drink or use your phone.
 
New tires for my scooter.

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The original ones were very slick and had almost no grip. I would skid off, from a stop. These new tires have more grip and the acceleration is much better due to traction being transferred properly. Also replaced the brake pads since I had the tires off anyhow. Going to invest in a rear fender, new stem clamp, and kickstand.
 
I purchased this 1L Apidura Backcountry top tube bag for my road bike from a Pinkbike sale. Couldn’t tell that it was slightly used and the fit is near perfect. It provides easy access and holds almost anything from gels, energy chews, phone, keys, cash/card, multi tool, etc. I prefer riding minimally with the exception of essential items so this works for me on extended rides. It’s also fully waterproof not that I purposely intend to ride in the rain.

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This was delivered today, 1900 psi pressure washer with too many attachments. I ordered it to clean my ebikes and pick up trucks and for general cleaning. Unboxing it was easy but after half bottle of California red wine and smoking pakalolo. I think I can wait for Saturday to figure out what all the attachments are for.
 

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This was delivered today, 1900 psi pressure washer with too many attachments. I ordered it to clean my ebikes and pick up trucks and for general cleaning. Unboxing it was easy but after half bottle of California red wine and smoking pakalolo. I think I can wait for Saturday to figure out what all the attachments are for.
At one time watching YouTube videos of people using power washers was highly popular.
 
Only after I saw @PCeBiker working with his controller, I ordered a male to female 9 pin motor cable. I’m going to cut off the male end and run the cable right into my controller. This way, I can have the motor cable exit the opposite end of the controller, which is closest to the motor, This will do 2 things for me; 1) shorten the length of the phase wires and 2) make more space for the other wires in my downtube. I’ll have to make a hole on the backside of the controller for this cable to exit from.

I can’t believe I hadn’t done this already I do similar things at work. I’ll run a cable to a device and use a factory connection at the device location, then I’ll make my splice (on the raw end of the cable) at a junction point (the controller). There will be lots of shorting to be sure the new cable has the same pin arrangement before I do any splicing in the controller. This will also further complicate my wiring diagram that I' hopelessly failing at creating, but working with wire is right in my wheelhouse. :)

I also have previously ordered a 35amp KT controller. I’ve decided to not use that on my scooter project, as I have a proper scooter now (RIP scooter project). I can mount the controller to my water bottle bosses (outside the seat tube). Doesn’t look pretty now, but I can paint the controller and once I tidy up the connections, by splicing new wire inside the controller to go to the wires in the existing controller location (downtube), it’ll look pretty decent. It will look much cleaner to have all my connections hidden. This way there will be only 3 cables coming from my controller, the 9pin motor cable, a single pair of 14awg (for power), and a single multi-conductor (at least 14) cable that will terminate to 4 JST connectors (display, PAS, throttle, and brake) inside the downtube. I already have a nice headlight solution, so I won’t be using the controllers headlight function. It’ll be so clean. I’ll have no external connections. Thanks for the inspiration @PCeBiker !
 
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Got a temperature sensor for my controller. I got glued it against the outer controller wall, just behind the FETs.

I stuck it here with double sided tape. The wire is pretty short. I’ll have to extend it, but I want to find out if I can run this from a 12v supply.
 

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I've got a half a dozen of those temperature sensors.
They run off 3V dc (two 1.5V button cells).

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I'd suggest just powering your thermometer separately with the button cells.
My thermometers all lasted over a year with the two button cells they came with, and they are always on. (You can't switch them off.)


Our display is switchable to read the ambient outside temperature or the motor temperature, but you'd have to find the temperature input on the circuit board inside the display to hook it up directly to read the motor temperature input.

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Got a new stem riser. I didn’t realize, until I installed it and rode the bike, that it’s base is 5mm shorted than my original riser. The topcap wouldn’t sit flush and I can not tighten the fork completely. I went over it twice and considered the height of the maximum riser angle, ID of base to fit around the head tube of the fork, the ID of the head to fit over the handlebar, but but the height of the base.

Another good stuff I bought are spacers for the head of the fork. I currently have 2x10mm and 1x5mm. I’ll remove the 5mm and add another 10mm. Then it will all make sense. I went for anodized blue color, it’ll match my handlebar.

Until then, I’ve reinstalled my original stem riser. I hate it because, I feel a “knocking”. I don’t think the nut the the riser arm sits well enough to hold tight. I mean, I’ve backed the bolt out and reseated it. I’ve proved it’s not the fork. I had a buddy move the fork around and I can feel the “knocking” right at the arm of the riser. The stem riser is well seated on the fork. And also, when I had the new stem riser on, I didn’t feel that “knocking”. Instead there was 5mm “slippage” at the head of the fork. It’s gonna feel much better when it’s all (that part, at least) done. The new riser is 20mm taller and has more angle adjustment. I’ll be able to get the handlebar adjusted finer now.
 
The temperature here in AZ is predicted at 100 degrees every day this week. Temperature sensors become moot. It is the breeze at speed that keeps us cool.
 
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