From Class 2 to Class 1. How "hard" is it to switch?

[PedalUma]

Bosch motors do have a small amount of delay. Otherwise a bike would jump into traffic while waiting at an intersection with a minor bump of the pedals.
I finally set the time stamp on my camera. It is easier than programing a bike.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Bosch motors do have a small amount of delay.

It is unnoticeable. Some mid-drive motors also allow setting the Zero Cadence. Fancy this scenario:

You are stuck on a big rock on your E-MTB. Your skill allows restarting climbing the rock, you only need the motor power. With Zero Cadence, the motor will deliver the full power as you set your foot on the pedal and push it hard. Giant/Yamaha have that as the default. You can set it for Specialized E-MTBs. I'm sure Bosch CX Gen 5 can do it as well.

 

[speedub.nate]

Bosch motors do have a small amount of delay. Otherwise a bike would jump into traffic while waiting

It is unnoticeable.

I'll add this: my wife recently began riding a bike with a Bosch Performance Line CX and a few times now the bike has lurched away from her while she's just about to come to a stop at a traffic light, usually while on a gentle decline but also at least once on a flat street, probably while she's repositioning the pedals.

She never had this on her previous bike with a Shimano E7000 motor.

I'm chalking it up to operator error, or more accurately, habit retraining. Both of my boys and I also ride this bike and we haven't experienced it. So my wife is definitely is doing something different (not necessarily wrong) that must be unlearned.

 

[BlackHand]

Yes, the new Bosch drive units have added hill start and hill hold functions in addition to improved walk assistance

Hill start assist and walk assistance

help.bosch-ebike.com

 

[BlackHand]

I'll add this: my wife recently began riding a bike with a Bosch Performance Line CX and a few times now the bike has lurched away from her while she's just about to come to a stop at a traffic light, usually while on a gentle decline but also at least once on a flat street, probably while she's repositioning the pedals.

She never had this on her previous bike with a Shimano E7000 motor.

I'm chalking it up to operator error, or more accurately, habit retraining. Both of my boys and I also ride this bike and we haven't experienced it. So my wife is definitely is doing something different (not necessarily wrong) that must be unlearned.

I'll say the delay/slack is noticably less in my gen4 PL Speed than on the gen2. You can trigger assist while stopped at a red light with pressure on the pedal, especially if you pedaled right up to a sudden stop without coasting. Not really an issue as the only time I would not have at least 1 hand on a brake at a red light is if I'm leaning over tying my shoe in which case both feet are on the ground.

In terms of sudden assist just before stopping, I guess it's more likely to trigger if I haven't down shifted enough and then try to make a last second gear change. Muscle memory is pretty well set at this point to downshift while pedaling without enough pressure to trigger assist as I effectively coast to a stop.

I doubt if that will continue to be a problem for your wife once her muscle memory recalibrates for the new bike.

 

[PedalUma]

There are two kinds of 'lag' and 'over-run'. The first is time. It is set in 100 millisecond increments. Visual perception takes 100 milliseconds. You want a little lag such as 500-700 milliseconds so the bike is not too jumpy. The same goes for over run. You do not want it so that if you have a minor adjustment in pedal pressure it abruptly shuts down. The next is set by degrees of rotation, so if the pedal is bumped a little it does not go flying, but is still highly responsive. There is another variable and that is cadence. To be smooth the power delivery curve should ramp up with cadence, maybe peaking at 110. Ideally it will be highly responsive without being lurchy. Then there is the torque sensor sensitivity. As @BlackHand mentioned, you want it to be sensitive, but not jump around if you are not pedaling perfectly smoothly, and you should be able to downshift while coming to a stop. It is set in milliamps.

 

[McApple]

So I've been riding a Class 2 (i.e w/throttle) for 4+ years, and I'm eyeing a much higher rig (i.e Moustache J-All, or Riese & Muller Homage 5), both Class 1 (i.e no throttle). I do love a throttle when I, or my knees, are tired. I can just stop pedaling for a while and still move. I could not do that with a Class 1 as you always have to pedal to move.

So, if you have switched from 2 to 1, how hard was it to adjust?

Cheers!

Just start off heading towards Pakenham, when you start feeling tired turn around and head back down grade.

 

[PedalUma]

This one just came in. It is a Bionx Yuba Mundo that is in perfect condition. The Bionx hub-drive system died and is not supported, making the bike less than useless due to weight and rotational weight. The new owner bought it for $250 on FB Marketplace. This week the old wheel goes and it gets a mid-drive. The mid-drive will be set for maximal smoothness and power, but with a low top speed. It will hall two kids, a tot and a baby. We don't want them to get whiplash.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Can't wait to hear about how all the millisecond adjustments will be made through the display and how it'll be better than any other bike available anywhere.
We'll all take special attention to look for the disappearing wires and magic cable ties as well.
Absolutely nothing to do with the OP... but that's never stopped this useful information from polluting every thread before.

 

[PedalUma]

nothing to do with the OP

It will be Class 1.

 

[Gionnirocket]

It will be Class 1.

And have 2 wheels as well.... I stand corrected.

 

[speedub.nate]

it's more likely to trigger if I haven't down shifted enough and then try to make a last second gear change. Muscle memory is pretty well set at this point to downshift while pedaling without enough pressure to trigger assist as I effectively coast to a stop.

I doubt if that will continue to be a problem for your wife once her muscle memory recalibrates for the new bike.

Hmmm, yeah, very well could be, though this bike has a Nexus 5. Her previous ebike did have a derailleur, but her mountain bike has a Rohloff, her previous pit cruiser / beater bike was a Sram Spectro S7, her city bike has an Alfine, so she's got years and years of experience on gear hubs and being able to shift at a standstill. That's why the both of us are so shocked by this.

So maybe it's not shifting per se, maybe it's that she developed a habit of rotating the crank forward to her preferred starting position rather than backward? I dunno, we're troubleshooting and it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens the intensity is actually surprisingly violent and she's come off of the bike once!