I got my spare parts from Amazon, other online stores and locally in my area if they had stock but some didn't have parts like for my brake pads, had to go to a specialized ebike store and paid premium.thanks for the practical post .
i think I might acquire a spare cassette ,forgot to order it with the bike but did get a chain and deraiileur hangar with it as spares .
is frey the best source for a cassette?
2700+ miles on mine. No chain stretch yet per my chain checker. For the most part I ride at lower PAS (250-500W) and keep the chain lubed. Only real stress on chain is when I ride up my 700' hill at the end of the ride at roughly 750W continuous.So I've put around 4,500km on my CC so far and here's a long term update. Ride mostly on flat bike paths.
- Changed cassette due to wear on the lowest cog resulting in chain skipping
- Battery charger failed (Frey sent a replacement)
- Shifting issues, replaced cable worked for a while but still having issues (considering wireless option)
- Schwalbe Super Moto-X holding up well still
- Brake pads replaced (Magura MT5 9.C)
- Rear brake light cable came loose
- Rear plastic fender rubbing on tire
- Starting to hear motor noise, might need to re-grease?
Other than that very reliable and pleasure still to ride.
Ya every place I called for brake pads didn't carry the Magura's I needed except this high end e-bike only shop near my area so bit the bullet, but my next one will probably be the Kool-Stops, I was told they were a good after market manufacturer for half the price. I asked Frey and seems they've changed their brakes on new CC's which uses pins (https://prnt.sc/1vi5mtu) mine are magnetic.2700+ miles on mine. No chain stretch yet per my chain checker. For the most part I ride at lower PAS (250-500W) and keep the chain lubed. Only real stress on chain is when I ride up my 700' hill at the end of the ride at roughly 750W continuous.
Shifting is finicky at times, more so in lower cogs. It seems to shift more reliably if I disengage the clutch.
Love the Moto-X tires. No flats, smooth ride, plenty of tread left.
Replaced the pads after a year. Bought some cheapo aftermarket pads from china on ebay. Haven't tried them yet, will do it when my second set wears out.
Have some motor noise as well. Also noticing some vibration in the pedals. Was worried it might be the cassette but only seems to manifest when I'm cruising at higher speed and using generous PAS. Lowering PAS to keep pedals and chain taut seems to make it go away. Was thinking it might be the motor needing lube. Or perhaps it was always there and I never noticed.
Overall very happy with the bike and look forward to riding it every chance I get.
I agree. I just got back from an hour or so pleasure ride and was in PAS 1 or 2 most of the trip. Way too much power for my riding style.Funny how we all have these massively powerful bikes and all float round on Pas 0,1,2 I'm the same lol..
I suppose we have the power if needed but I rarely use it lol.
Maybe legal bikes ain't so bad after all..
My latest bike is a 500w geared hub bike. The 2 bikes previous to that bike are both rated well over 1000w (yes I still have them). One is a geared hub, the other a mid drive. The 2 more powerful bikes can justify their weight (67 and 70lbs) with the power (and battery) needed to push this 300 lb butt up some pretty steep hills I encounter while riding in Florida. Here in Michigan, there are a few hills but they are much smaller, so I was wondering if I could get away with less power AND maybe less weight.Funny how we all have these massively powerful bikes and all float round on Pas 0,1,2 I'm the same lol..
I suppose we have the power if needed but I rarely use it lol.
Maybe legal bikes ain't so bad after all..
Lately I've chosen to drive my 50lb Espin Sport (fenders removed) vs the 1000 lb Frey CC. It really is a heavy machine...My latest bike is a 500w geared hub bike. The 2 bikes previous to that bike are both rated well over 1000w (yes I still have them). One is a geared hub, the other a mid drive. The 2 more powerful bikes can justify their weight (67 and 70lbs) with the power (and battery) needed to push this 300 lb butt up some pretty steep hills I encounter while riding in Florida. Here in Michigan, there are a few hills but they are much smaller, so I was wondering if I could get away with less power AND maybe less weight.
The answer? Oh hell yes!
The 500w bike weighs just 55lbs. including a battery that is plenty for my purposes (14ah or so). The OEM controller, like most other geared hub controllers, left a lot to be desired from a "rideability" standpoint, so it was VERY easy to justify replacing it with an inexpensive aftermarket KT controller. The waterproof KT-22a controller and LCD display were less than a hundred bucks together, and pretty easily replaced the old controller and display. Why am I mentioning this modification? Because it can feed nearly 1000 watts into that 500w motor, making for some pretty "sporty" (real sporty actually!) performance, and it does this without adding 1 ounce of weight to the bike.
Granted, you need to keep in mind that kind of power is only going to be usable for a few seconds before it starts overheating the motor. This is plenty of time to cross a busy street, catch up with your riding buddy, or climb a short hill.
So back to the question of justifying that big motor and the huge/heavy battery required for that motor to give it any range. Necessary? How often do you use/need that big power? Does the idea of a bike that's 15lbs lighter sound appealing? Your call.... -Al
Mind posting a link to where you purchased? Appreciate it.My latest bike is a 500w geared hub bike. The 2 bikes previous to that bike are both rated well over 1000w (yes I still have them). One is a geared hub, the other a mid drive. The 2 more powerful bikes can justify their weight (67 and 70lbs) with the power (and battery) needed to push this 300 lb butt up some pretty steep hills I encounter while riding in Florida. Here in Michigan, there are a few hills but they are much smaller, so I was wondering if I could get away with less power AND maybe less weight.
The answer? Oh hell yes!
The 500w bike weighs just 55lbs. including a battery that is plenty for my purposes (14ah or so). The OEM controller, like most other geared hub controllers, left a lot to be desired from a "rideability" standpoint, so it was VERY easy to justify replacing it with an inexpensive aftermarket KT controller. The waterproof KT-22a controller and LCD display were less than a hundred bucks together, and pretty easily replaced the old controller and display. Why am I mentioning this modification? Because it can feed nearly 1000 watts into that 500w motor, making for some pretty "sporty" (real sporty actually!) performance, and it does this without adding 1 ounce of weight to the bike.
Granted, you need to keep in mind that kind of power is only going to be usable for a few seconds before it starts overheating the motor. This is plenty of time to cross a busy street, catch up with your riding buddy, or climb a short hill.
So back to the question of justifying that big motor and the huge/heavy battery required for that motor to give it any range. Necessary? How often do you use/need that big power? Does the idea of a bike that's 15lbs lighter sound appealing? Your call.... -Al
Mind posting a link to where you purchased? Appreciate it.