Free tuning method.

[RoadWrinkle]

The $150-$200 dongles are not needed. This method requires no device and can be done in minutes to defeat any speed limiters while introducing no extra stress on the motor:

1) Remove the wheel speed magnet sensor (one allen screw) from the inside edge of the lower frame arm.
2.) With the sensor cable still attached, simply move the sensor to the outside edge of the frame so it aligns with the end of the crank arm.
3.) Attach the magnet from the spoke to the inside edge of the crank so it aligns with the sensor.
4.) Now the system will measure your pedal speed which is always much slower than your wheel speed; so the system thinks your wheel is moving much slower than it is and thus CONTINUES to provide power assist even above 28 mph (you can get assist up to about 32-35 mph).
5.) You can use a piece of packing tape to secure both the sensor and the magnet because they are very light; it would also be easy to attach them more permanently.
6.) You should not encounter clearance issues between the crank and the sensor. If you are concerned, mount the sensor on the top edge of the frame arm, as long as it still intersects with the magnet on the crank it will work.
7.) This method does not effect any of the other features of the drive system, so torque sensing will work as normal, shift sensing as well on the Bosch systems.

Battery range would be effected as you would be using juice at a higher rate of consumption. No tuning method will make your bike more powerful; all they do is allow your motor to give you assist at a higher top end speed. IOW, you will not be able to climb easier because it does not change motor performance.
Unlike dongles, you have no new wiring, no battery powered attachments, NO COST.

 

[Lenny]

The $150-$200 dongles are not needed. This method requires no device and can be done in minutes to defeat any speed limiters while introducing no extra stress on the motor:

1) Remove the wheel speed magnet sensor (one allen screw) from the inside edge of the lower frame arm.
2.) With the sensor cable still attached, simply move the sensor to the outside edge of the frame so it aligns with the end of the crank arm.
3.) Attach the magnet from the spoke to the inside edge of the crank so it aligns with the sensor.
4.) Now the system will measure your pedal speed which is always much slower than your wheel speed; so the system thinks your wheel is moving much slower than it is and thus CONTINUES to provide power assist even above 28 mph (you can get assist up to about 32-35 mph).
5.) You can use a piece of packing tape to secure both the sensor and the magnet because they are very light; it would also be easy to attach them more permanently.
6.) You should not encounter clearance issues between the crank and the sensor. If you are concerned, mount the sensor on the top edge of the frame arm, as long as it still intersects with the magnet on the crank it will work.
7.) This method does not effect any of the other features of the drive system, so torque sensing will work as normal, shift sensing as well on the Bosch systems.

Battery range would be effected as you would be using juice at a higher rate of consumption. No tuning method will make your bike more powerful; all they do is allow your motor to give you assist at a higher top end speed. IOW, you will not be able to climb easier because it does not change motor performance.
Unlike dongles, you have no new wiring, no battery powered attachments, NO COST.

This has been done before and we suggest all our customers to not do this. You could easily lose/damage the sensor cable and the magnet. It's simply not worth it.

 

[RoadWrinkle]

I understand, thank you for posting a video with more detailed instructions on how to do what you suggest should not be done. Also, fairly easy to attach the sensor and magnet to the new locations in a secure way and protect the cable. Once the consumer puts up the 3-5k for a good ebike, everyone would agree they now own the bike and can make whatever modifications they want. These tuning methods do not make the bike go any faster than it was designed to; the proof of that is that most manufacturers offer other models that have no restriction with assist to 28 mph, and use the same drive system and components as the restricted bikes. Most methods can be easily reversed so riders can choose which terrain and riding areas are most appropriate for the extra assist. US manufacturer's must meet class one standards and sell speed compliant bikes for legal use on public trails, but perfectly legal to get assist up to the 28 mph limit while riding to the off-road areas and on private property trails. So consumers will continue tuning their ebikes, IMHO.

 

[TrevorB]

Doesn't work with bosch or Shimano, both will give error after a few minutes.

 

[MLB]

and no accurate speed reading. Maybe that doens't mean anything to you, but that would bother me.
You are also playing with running your electric motor outside its parameters and they are very susceptible to heat.
Pass

The $150-$200 dongles are not needed. This method requires no device and can be done in minutes to defeat any speed limiters while introducing no extra stress on the motor:

1) Remove the wheel speed magnet sensor (one allen screw) from the inside edge of the lower frame arm.
2.) With the sensor cable still attached, simply move the sensor to the outside edge of the frame so it aligns with the end of the crank arm.
3.) Attach the magnet from the spoke to the inside edge of the crank so it aligns with the sensor.
4.) Now the system will measure your pedal speed which is always much slower than your wheel speed; so the system thinks your wheel is moving much slower than it is and thus CONTINUES to provide power assist even above 28 mph (you can get assist up to about 32-35 mph).
5.) You can use a piece of packing tape to secure both the sensor and the magnet because they are very light; it would also be easy to attach them more permanently.
6.) You should not encounter clearance issues between the crank and the sensor. If you are concerned, mount the sensor on the top edge of the frame arm, as long as it still intersects with the magnet on the crank it will work.
7.) This method does not effect any of the other features of the drive system, so torque sensing will work as normal, shift sensing as well on the Bosch systems.

Battery range would be effected as you would be using juice at a higher rate of consumption. No tuning method will make your bike more powerful; all they do is allow your motor to give you assist at a higher top end speed. IOW, you will not be able to climb easier because it does not change motor performance.
Unlike dongles, you have no new wiring, no battery powered attachments, NO COST.

 

[Luv2ride]

I tried the free method suggested here on my Bosch performance speed motor and it worked but I was getting an error 503 (speed sensor error) and the motor would cut out. Turning it off and on would get it back and this worked for a few rides until it would not clear the error for several miles. It was so much fun having the speed limit removed, I ordered this: http://www.bikespeed.de/RS_en.html
Now my motor does not turn off as long as I am pedaling and the computer works correctly.
By the way, the product was shipped from Germany very quickly.

 

[RoadWrinkle]

and no accurate speed reading. Maybe that doens't mean anything to you, but that would bother me.
You are also playing with running your electric motor outside its parameters and they are very susceptible to heat.
Pass

Yes no speedometer read, but your wrong about motor parameters being exceeded as explained in my post.

 

[RoadWrinkle]

Doesn't work with bosch or Shimano, both will give error after a few minutes.

Thats only the case for 2016-2017 Bosch systems after software changes designed to defeat tuning devices. I have been using this method on my 2015 xduro no problems. http://newwheel.net/motor-systems

 

[MLB]

That's cool, then I'll just stick with the fact that it's illegal (US) and dangerous (too fast) on the bike paths I ride.
Just because you can doens't mean you should.
I ride motorcycles much much faster than my ebikes and feel safe doing it.
I had a 28mph Stromer and still have a 28 mph Falco trike. Great fun but very very fast for a bicycle with bicycle tires and potholes and such.
28mph is too fast for shared use trails and not fast enough (nor is a bikes brakes/tires safe enough) to run with cars. (I hate riding roads now after years of trail access)

Yes no speedometer read, but your wrong about motor parameters being exceeded as explained in my post.

 

[Alphbetadog]

That's cool, then I'll just stick with the fact that it's illegal (US) and dangerous (too fast) on the bike paths I ride.
Just because you can doens't mean you should.
I ride motorcycles much much faster than my ebikes and feel safe doing it.
I had a 28mph Stromer and still have a 28 mph Falco trike. Great fun but very very fast for a bicycle with bicycle tires and potholes and such.
28mph is too fast for shared use trails and not fast enough (nor is a bikes brakes/tires safe enough) to run with cars. (I hate riding roads now after years of trail access)

I totally agree with this. Also, regarding emtbing, if you can go over 20mph on the trails then the trails your riding are not tight, twisty, technical and challenging enough. Find better trails.

 

[RoadWrinkle]

LOL at these replies.

 

[Ed Busk]

LOL at these replies.

Of course it may affect the motor. Heat dissipation is always an issue. Running at consistently higher speeds inevitably draws more current for longer = more heat.

Also we are all enjoying being able to use these fine machines with minimum regulation. All we need is for some idiot to kill themselves at 35 mph and we can watch draconian new rules being enforced.

Also what an inelegant engineering solution. Dear oh dear.

 

[pxpaulx]

Ed, I will try to explain it to you slowly... same bikes... same motors... same battery are built and designed to have assist up to 28 mph by ALL the big manufacturers, so if they had motor heat issues would they do this? You post like you know what your talking about but you do not have any FACTS to support your BS. Dongle Troll?

Actually you don't know if the manufacturers change the internal gearing to be tailored to a specific speed, at a sacrifice of torque. Unless you work for them, your knowledge probably goes about as far as Ed's...that is mostly opinion and speculation.

No need for the animosity over a bike motor.

 

[harryS]

I saw the original tip on a Youtube video made by a fellow in the UK. I thought it was a stroke of genius.

I can see where Bosch customer service gets upset. They carry a good warranty, don't they, but it's based on a pretty relaxed motor regime. So if they have a way to detect a hack, I think that's fair. Owner has to take responsibility if he breaks it.

I would think the motor is robust enough though. It has to push customers that ride around with the chain sprockets on the smallest gear at 5 mph, which seems to me to be worse than going full speed on that gear.

Like paulpx notes, it's just a bike. If you want to mess with it and give up on warranty, that's the American way. In my car tuner, rice burner days, I spent many thousands of dollars on engine mods. These days, I don't lift the hoods or bonnets, except to add wiper fluid. Still, if I owned a Bosch bike, I would try it to see what happens.

 

[Ed Busk]

Ed, I will try to explain it to you slowly... same bikes... same motors... same battery are built and designed to have assist up to 28 mph by ALL the big manufacturers, so if they had motor heat issues would they do this? You post like you know what your talking about but you do not have any FACTS to support your BS. Dongle Troll?

Wow. That's some aggression you got going on there. Let's try not to be toddlers eh? Keep a civil tongue.

You are partially correct. They may well be designed to go to 28. But you are taking them PAST 28. Plus as all the posts note half the time the hack just fails. You have to turn everything on and off every 5 minutes when you get a sensor error. Genius solution.

PSPaulX makes a good point too.

I have a Bafang BS02 running 1.3 KW amongst other things. 3KW GoPed scooter. I've melted a few motors. I understand the practicalities.

Stick a few hills in, hot day, and over speed without restriction, you risk damage.

 

[oilerlord]

You are partially correct. They may well be designed to go to 28. But you are taking them PAST 28.

I've melted a few motors. I understand the practicalities.

Stick a few hills in, hot day, and over speed without restriction, you risk damage.

Referencing the example of riding hills on a hot day - abuse can happen quite easily under 20 mph too...with or without the speed mod. Push any motor to extremes and bad things tend to happen. I don't believe removing the speed limiter in any way changes what the motor was designed to do, but rather may give the rider a false sense of what the motor is capable of doing.

 

[RoadWrinkle]

Yes, a geared or brushless hub motor will basically turn into a space heater if you try to get up a hill that is too steep and the motor bogs down at the lower speeds, but a mid drive climbs much more efficiently, AND all of the newer Bosch, Brose and Yamaha systems have circuit protection to prevent over heating.

The main point I was making is that defeating a limiter does not change the engine performance, IOW it does not cause more current to pass through the motor or increase nominal or peak wattage output. Also, there is no way removing a speed limiter can allow you to go faster UPHILL when the issue does not even arise until you are going 20 mph and want assist up to 28 mph; these are not climbing speeds.

If you want to address modifications that can fry the motor talk to the guys that add throttles to PAS only systems, or those that swap out stock controllers to pump electricity into the motor the way a hot rod carb forces gasoline into a combustion engine.

 

[RoadWrinkle]

some aggression

Ed if you want respect you have to show respect, if you issue insults like "idiot" for example, insults are what you will get back. Have a nice day.

 

[Peter Griffins]

I have an cortina u4 ecomo 36v i had an 24v before and i was able to speed her up to 30mph instead off 20mph but my new bike (36v) isn’t able to speed up and there are no tuning kits available for this type non of this tricks work can someone help me pls?!...

 

[Trail Cruiser]

I have an cortina u4 ecomo 36v i had an 24v before and i was able to speed her up to 30mph instead off 20mph but my new bike (36v) isn’t able to speed up and there are no tuning kits available for this type non of this tricks work can someone help me pls?!...

Is your new ebike the same as the old one? Cortina u4 ecomo 36v?