Flat tire and battery fell out!

[Citycrosser]

After work yesterday, I went out to the rack and discovered that the front tire was flat. I carry a spare tube so I was able to change it out. The tube looked like it just simply failed while sitting in the rack. I didn't see any sign of punctures, the Schwalbe Marathon tire looked great. Weird.

I put the battery in place, made sure it was secure, and then flipped the bike over to access the front wheel (yes, I could have just laid it down). While flipping it over, the battery came out. My Magnum Metro+ uses the Reention Dorado battery like so many others. After some investigation, I discovered that one screw was missing on the top electrical connector assembly, allowing the battery to move enough to slip around the locking post. Here's the Reention Dorado (photo borrowed from the web):

This photo sort of shows the missing screw (another borrowed photo - I need to remember to take photos!):

If you have this style battery check for this screw and make sure it is tight!

I was able to put the battery back in. It generally stayed put but to be safe, I wrapped it with some electrical tape that I borrowed from work. Once I got home, I was able to find a replacement screw and I used some threadlocker on it.

One other note, one way home, I passed three e-bikes on the North County Trailway in Westchester. I've never seen another e-bike out there so to see three in one day was pretty cool. The first looked to be a Izip but I wasn't sure. It was flat black, appeared to have a rear hub motor, and a dolphin style battery where the bottle cage would normally be. The other two were Haibike SDURO's or similar (they were both definitely Haibikes).

Perhaps I passed someone who is also on the forum?

 

[indianajo]

Tubes can leak out of the valve. Spit on the valve and look for a bubble for a minute to make sure you have seated it completely. If so push in, re inflate and try again.
I find most times when I have a flat I can't see the hole. I just change out the tube instead of fiddling with patches, which mostly didn't work for me when I did try them. Thin city tires get a lot more flats, about three times as many, as thick bumpy off road tires. Lots of trash is in the road. I don't go off road, but I use the thick trail tires as I don't like fixing flats. So far I had one flat this summer, (~1200 miles) on the thin city tire that came on the new bike I bought in January.

 

[Citycrosser]

Tubes can leak out of the valve. Spit on the valve and look for a bubble for a minute to make sure you have seated it completely. If so push in, re inflate and try again.
I find most times when I have a flat I can't see the hole. I just change out the tube instead of fiddling with patches, which mostly didn't work for me when I did try them. Thin city tires get a lot more flats, about three times as many, as thick bumpy off road tires. Lots of trash is in the road. I don't go off road, but I use the thick trail tires as I don't like fixing flats. So far I had one flat this summer, (~1200 miles) on the thin city tire that came on the new bike I bought in January.

That's a good tip on checking the valve. In my case, the tube was ruptured along the seam for about 8"....so the leak was pretty obvious. I agree with your take on patches, it's easier to just carry a spare tube and throw it in.

 

[Bob H]

View attachment 24714

If you have this style battery check for this screw and make sure it is tight!

I was able to put the battery back in. It generally stayed put but to be safe, I wrapped it with some electrical tape that I borrowed from work. Once I got home, I was able to find a replacement screw and I used some threadlocker on it.

I too have the Reention Dorado battery on my bike and the top part of the assembly where it fits into the bike frame is an on-going problem. The screws on mine are a sheet metal/wood screw type going into the frame rather than a properly threaded hole into the frame. Lock-tite doesn't work too well in this application and as a result, these screws regularly loosen. When this happens, the assembly slides down slightly and all of a sudden, you can't get the battery out of the frame. I check these screws all the time and make sure they are tight to keep on top of the problem. I'm quite happy with the way my bike is put together all in all, but this method of connecting the battery hardware to the frame is slipshod in my opinion. This type of screw really has no place on an E-bike and I expect that I will have to find a solution to this problem down the road as these screws tend to bore out the hole and after a while I'm sure they won't hold tight at all.

This has been the most annoying problem with my Surface 604 Colt. I've put 7000 km on the bike virtually trouble-free except for this.

Bob

 

[Citycrosser]

The battery appeared loose on my ride home and I was experiencing a weird intermittent surge as the power seemed to cut in and out. Upon closer inspection, not only was the screw loose but the upper housing appears cracked. I’ve emailed Magnum. We shall see how they respond.

 

[adcockj]

I have two Magnum bikes, a Metro (for my wife) and a Peak. The Metro has been flawless, but I've had a couple of issues with the Peak (we have around 800 miles on each). While they haven't set any speed records, Magnum has been responsive in each case (through my local bike shop). I'm sure they'll take care of you.

Thanks for the tip about checking those upper mounting screws...I'll take a look at mine.

 

[Figs]

Good lookin’ out Citycrosser, I’ll check mine in the morning.

 

[tomjasz]

All connections should be treated with Boeshield or ACF50. ALL, especially where the battery connects to the base to carry power. Check and be certain to treat at least every 6 months. I see corroded connections and shorted connection every week.

 

[MetroDuck]

Dielectric Grease is a good way to go. Locktite, among others, makes this and I'm pretty sure you can find it at your local auto parts store. Put a small amount on the contacts and it will protect from rust, corrosion, salt, etc. I first learned of this when I had a dash alarm that my airbag was disabled. There was a service bulletin and the solution was to remove the airbag and use a toothpick to put a tiny amount of dielectric grease on the contact points. Reseated and unseated the airbag a few times as directed and problem solved.

I use a small amount of this on my battery contacts. Do not try to apply directly from the metal tube but use either a toothpick or cotton swab as appropriate.

As for the loose mounting screws I'm going to check these on my Magnum bikes on a regular basis. If it looks to come loose I'll be the guinea pig to try the red version of Loctite which is intended to be a near permeate solution compared to the blue which is a lesser strength by design. As an aside blue loctite is good to use on any threads that are exposed to harsh elements as it will prevent the screw form corroding and fusing with the nut or threaded receiving hole.

 

[rich c]

I'd replace those slotted screws with a hex drive screw. Easier to torque to spec.

 

[tomjasz]

Dielectric Grease is a good way to go. Locktite, among others, makes this and I'm pretty sure you can find it at your local auto parts store. Put a small amount on the contacts and it will protect from rust, corrosion, salt, etc. I first learned of this when I had a dash alarm that my airbag was disabled. There was a service bulletin and the solution was to remove the airbag and use a toothpick to put a tiny amount of dielectric grease on the contact points. Reseated and unseated the airbag a few times as directed and problem solved.

I use a small amount of this on my battery contacts. Do not try to apply directly from the metal tube but use either a toothpick or cotton swab as appropriate.

As for the loose mounting screws I'm going to check these on my Magnum bikes on a regular basis. If it looks to come loose I'll be the guinea pig to try the red version of Loctite which is intended to be a near permeate solution compared to the blue which is a lesser strength by design. As an aside blue loctite is good to use on any threads that are exposed to harsh elements as it will prevent the screw form corroding and fusing with the nut or threaded receiving hole.

ACF50 and Boeshield are decades later and far superior. Some Loctite versions are extremely effective glues and they don’t provide near the protection. Caveats, Boeshield and similar need reapplication, but to zone that ought to be a part of any prefright review.

 

[MetroDuck]

ACF50 and Boeshield are decades later and far superior. Some Loctite versions are extremely effective glues and they don’t provide near the protection. Caveats, Boeshield and similar need reapplication, but to zone that ought to be a part of any prefright review.

That sounds like good stuff and I'm sure it is great at what it was made for. But it appears that what it is designed for is mostly other than what I was suggesting. The Loctite will likely help with the situation described where a set screw was coming loose. The Dielectric grease will help significantly with electrical contacts. It will keep a good electrical connection and also protect against the corrosion that can happen between the two metals in contact. Dielectric grease is the go-to for the automotive use, in particular the connectors on the ends of wiring harnesses.

 

[tomjasz]

That sounds like good stuff and I'm sure it is great at what it was made for. But it appears that what it is designed for is mostly other than what I was suggesting. The Loctite will likely help with the situation described where a set screw was coming loose. The Dielectric grease will help significantly with electrical contacts. It will keep a good electrical connection and also protect against the corrosion that can happen between the two metals in contact. Dielectric grease is the go-to for the automotive use, in particular the connectors on the ends of wiring harnesses.

Well beyond dielectric at protecting electrical connections. Some components are poor candidates for Loctite. Torque wrenches are best especially on components needing adjustment. BTW ACF50 and Boeshield were developed to protect avionics. Slightly more risky conditions than eBikes. Dialect Ric can be affected by heat and tend to gather particulates more than more newly developed products.