First attempt at DIY conversion -- compatible frame?

Interesting. I can't seem to find that model anywhere, but it's nice to know that they may exist.

I'm going to 3D print a thinner cable guide and it looks like the bridge plate might actually line up with the hole in the plate on the chainstays, so I'll first give this a shot. Since we have two bikes, it might be fun in the future to try both motor types and see how it goes. What's most important for me at the moment is that any system I use has to be extremely intuitive, since I'll be sharing the bike with another rider who isn't necessarily into this kind of thing.
Yes they diffidently exist..this web page was from 2017.

If you having a non tech minded person share your bike, DON"T share the mid drive or you will most likely end up with a severely damaged drive train and or motor.
I already mentionioned how complex they are that includes complex to ride, If you don't shift right, crunch ...trash.
 
Yes they diffidently exist..this web page was from 2017.

If you having a non tech minded person share your bike, DON"T share the mid drive or you will most likely end up with a severely damaged drive train and or motor.
I already mentionioned how complex they are that includes complex to ride, If you don't shift right, crunch ...trash.
OK, I must be searching incorrectly. Bafang's web site doesn't turn up an H800, so this is the closest thing I can find. Is this basically equivalent?

Thanks!
 
It is an aluminum bike so drilling the plate will be easy. Remove the screw of the BB cable guides, chucking the plastic piece. One of these is for the front derailleur which is going anyway. The rear shift cable can be run one of two ways as continuous housing. 1) Following the rear brake housing until the seat stays, then down the right seat stay to the shifter. 2) Over the top of the bottom bracket and down the underside of the right chain stay. With option two, do not be tempted to make the curve too tight over the bottom bracket or you will have shifting problems. Do not run any wires or cables between the motor and the bottom bracket. If you use zip ties with option one they can be touched with matching nail polish so that they go unseen. I drill bikes every week. Just be thoughtful when doing it. You are just modifying a kickstand bracket. Here is a bike made yesterday.
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Or consider just going with a mid drive and use the wheelset and hitch that you already have. If you go with a mid drive you will only have to deal with the cable that runs under the bottom bracket to the rear derailleur. The cable that goes to the front derailleur will be removed anyway if you use a single chainring as most do. It is extremely simple and inexpensive to run a sheathed cable above the bottom bracket to the rear derailleur. You could probably ask eco-cycles if the kickstand bracket will interfere but it doesn't look like it would.

EDIT: Or a front hub geared motor if you can accept the compromises. All of the assist motor choices have compromises.
 
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I tow the chariot also.. I drilled it out for the larger size and it slipped right on.. I tow with 3 different bikes.. 2 have the hub and one has the small skewer quick release.. I bought 3 different connectors so that I didnt have to change them out in the field or when i towed with either bike.
 
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