eMTB Options For 2024

The Rise M10 is $10,500 here, that's pretty steep. IIRC a Trance 1 is about 30% less. Compared to a carbon SL I think it's pretty close.

Here's another good write-up/review on the M10 Rise:
flowmountainbike.com

Orbea Rise | A new lightweight e-MTB that's ready to take on the Specialized Levo SL

With a headline-grabbing weight of just 16.2kg, the Orbea Rise is claimed to be one of the lightest full suspension electric mountain bikes on the market. As a serious competitor to the Specialized Levo SL, the Orbea Rise comes with a bigger battery and a more powerful motor too.
flowmountainbike.com flowmountainbike.com


Here they directly comment that the Rise is a 'electric' version of the OCCAM. I thought that, but this confirms it.
What is the primary difference on it compared to the WILD?

When and where can we find information on an alloy-version Rise?
 
Browneye said:
The Rise M10 is $10,500 here, that's pretty steep. IIRC a Trance 1 is about 30% less. Compared to a carbon SL I think it's pretty close.

Here's another good write-up/review on the M10 Rise:
flowmountainbike.com

Orbea Rise | A new lightweight e-MTB that's ready to take on the Specialized Levo SL

With a headline-grabbing weight of just 16.2kg, the Orbea Rise is claimed to be one of the lightest full suspension electric mountain bikes on the market. As a serious competitor to the Specialized Levo SL, the Orbea Rise comes with a bigger battery and a more powerful motor too.
flowmountainbike.com flowmountainbike.com


Here they directly comment that the Rise is a 'electric' version of the OCCAM. I thought that, but this confirms it.
What is the primary difference on it compared to the WILD?

When and where can we find information on an alloy-version Rise?
Click to expand...

So orbea are slightly more expensive in the us compared to Aus, but that'd still put an m20 about 15% above the similarly specced giant ? You can't compare an m10 with giant - it's several spec levels higher than the best giant emtb

You've indirectly pointed out a better comparison - wild vs trance. The wild is a closer design to the trance, a down hill focussed all mountain rather than the x country rise. With the wild, they didn't try to struggle to save weight on components so it's cheaper ( same price as an equivalent giant in Aus AND with a carbon framed )

The trouble with these comparisons is better designed / specced bikes can work across a wider spectrum than intended. So you get blurring of boundaries and often one bike being better at the others intended purpose even though it's targeted elsewhere.

Most of the references to the alloy rise get deleted by admin on emtb - they take brand embargo seriously, so for example rumors about the kenevo sl were popping up and being deleted at least 3 months before my specialized dealer "knew about it " , with a surprising number of customers who had pre ordered a bike the dealer wasn't supposed to know about....The when is late 2021 , but that's orbea time so who knows.

If you're happy with the trance, why change? I invested in the levo sl because by fugle was getting dangerous at the speeds / track difficulty I was tackling whilst riding with sprogette 1. Plus lifting fugke onto the rack several times a day was putting my back at risk. I still love riding fugle, and am actually looking forward to doing a x country ride where sprogette us on the levo and I'm on fugle ( quietly hoping she goes back to x country touring rather than scaring her father down hill....)
 
Prairie Dog said:
The Trance E is my first venture into the realm of e-MTBs and as a relative neophyte I have to admit that I’m quite impressed with its performance. Yes, it could shed some weight but it is what it is. I can’t really make any hands-on comparisons other than listening to and observing what others have said and experienced with respect to their lighter rides. All I know is that both guys that I ride the trails with own carbon Levos and the lighter more nimble but somewhat under powered SL is hard pressed to keep up on climbs when pitted against the Trance or the SL’s slightly heavier but full-blown cousin, the Levo CC. That hard-to-ignore edge in additional torque is something that I’m not sure that I would be willing to compromise on.

I must admit that the cost of admission on these high-end bikes is lofty but the few I’ve seen online or at Cdn dealers have all sold out so there are those who have deep pockets out there. My heftier Trance with 600 WH and 80NM is a relative bargain. That being said, it’s hard to beat the power-to-weight ratio and stealthy look of that Rise. I don’t have any need at this time to look any further than my current ride.

Footage from yesterday's ride.

Click to expand...
Art,
Do you ride in e-MTB (Auto) most of the time? Videos are hard to tell, and they are of course just snapshots of the entire rides, but didn't see you change assist level even once.
 
On our 140 km group ride, my brother rode Trance E+ (on Johnny Watts) out of necessity, as it is his only e-bike (and he loves it). Jacek has become an experienced e-biker now. He limits the Trance to 30 km/h, and uses 75% Eco assistance (just to cancel the bike weight). It allows him travelling long distances on a single 625 Wh battery.

One of our riding companions, Justyna, is an extremely fit traditional cyclist, riding an Haibike XC bike. Her favourite cruising speed is 30 km/h. She and Jacek swapped their bikes for 30 km of the trip. At first, Justyna could not mount the Trance (I taught her how to do it). She used the dropper post to adjust the saddle height. After several kilometres ridden, she complained "Why do my calves hurt now?" We stopped. I told Jacek to raise the speed limit to 32 km/h. And then all was fine! :)

1624942244680.png
 
Last edited:
Randal, the giant auto mode is supposed to adjust based on incline / torque etc, but there's a slight delay with incline so it's unpredictable . Eg if you manual down a hill it might have 250% assist at the next pedal stroke, but if you've been braking hard and are nose down it might have a LOT less. Easier to just dial in the assist to suit your adrenaline level and get a consistent response to pedal strokes, especially with the giants instant power delivery.
 
PDoz said:
Randal, the giant auto mode is supposed to adjust based on incline / torque etc, but there's a slight delay with incline so it's unpredictable . Eg if you manual down a hill it might have 250% assist at the next pedal stroke, but if you've been braking hard and are nose down it might have a LOT less. Easier to just dial in the assist to suit your adrenaline level and get a consistent response to pedal strokes, especially with the giants instant power delivery.
Click to expand...
Thanks,
I've tried the Giant Auto mode and I don't like it. If I had to pick a specific reason, I would say that I find the surges disconcerting.
I much prefer to manage my own power selection but I can understand why some might prefer it. You mention unpredictable and I would agree. If I make a mistake on gearing, the line I choose and power assist levels, then it's my own fault and it's hopefully just another lesson learned. With auto mode - who knows why it did what it did...

My $0.02
 
I find Giant auto-mode works great on road and smooth level trails. Otherwise, I like to choose my assist level. It does work pretty well, but there is definitely a lag in response.
Set-it-and-forget-it has its convenience. I sure wouldn't CHOOSE a bike for it though.
 
What really annoys me is after the last update my giant defaults to auto when I turn it on, then switches to a mud level assistance if I go up or down at the controller.

The sl can be set to default at whatever setting I like
 
PDoz said:
What really annoys me is after the last update my giant defaults to auto when I turn it on, then switches to a mud level assistance if I go up or down at the controller.

The sl can be set to default at whatever setting I like
Click to expand...

Yeah, the new Stance powers up in auto-mode. Good for noobies me thinks.
OTOH, the SPORT assist motor is dead-silent, or nearly so. The PRO in my Trance "growls" - I'm told the primary gears are straight-cut and that's why they are louder.
In any case, wind-noise is louder than both at any speeds over 10mph, so it's all good. :)
 
MTB Maintenance Update - I am getting MUCH better at changing brake pads.
This morning was time for some new front pads. 8.5 minutes start to finish, of which 2.5 was fiddling about getting wheel back on.

In my makeshift repair stand.

20210630_104752.jpg

Tools.
20210630_104716.jpg

I use the hook knife when I need to gently lever the new pads apart if the pistons weren't quite repositioned correctly with the nylon tire lever.
Today required just a little help - hence the bit of extra time.

Completed pads in place.
20210630_104245.jpg

For comparison in time - I think my first time doing this was about 30 minutes.

The Shimano B01S (resin) pads are getting hard to find - none of the local bike shops are showing any in stock, and this is a fairly large city.
Thankfully, online availability looks OK. Last time I bought them it was local and I bought 4 pairs. Now 2 left, so I should be good for a while.
I did the rears about 6 weeks ago - I should really start a log to track these things...
 
RandallS said:
MTB Maintenance Update - I am getting MUCH better at changing brake pads.
This morning was time for some new front pads. 8.5 minutes start to finish, of which 2.5 was fiddling about getting wheel back on.

In my makeshift repair stand.

View attachment 91859

Tools.
View attachment 91860

I use the hook knife when I need to gently lever the new pads apart if the pistons weren't quite repositioned correctly with the nylon tire lever.
Today required just a little help - hence the bit of extra time.

Completed pads in place.
View attachment 91861

For comparison in time - I think my first time doing this was about 30 minutes.

The Shimano B01S (resin) pads are getting hard to find - none of the local bike shops are showing any in stock, and this is a fairly large city.
Thankfully, online availability looks OK. Last time I bought them it was local and I bought 4 pairs. Now 2 left, so I should be good for a while.
I did the rears about 6 weeks ago - I should really start a log to track these things...
Click to expand...
Maguras about 1 minute probably less, however if it was stefan probably 2 days whilst he called his brother and LBS.
 
Gaffer makes some really nice brake pads for bikes...they have a long history in racing motorcycles. I'm really happy with them to replace some squeaky ones that came on my Orbea.

AFAIK you don't even need to remove the wheel, just the pin and they both pop out.
I re-seated my calipers by loosening the mounting bolts, squeeze the brake lever so they center, and re-tighten the bolts. I don't recall if I saw this or just found it a way to center/align everything up.
Some bedding in is also suggested - a few hard brakes from speed, and you should be good to go. 👍
 
Browneye said:
Gaffer makes some really nice brake pads for bikes...they have a long history in racing motorcycles. I'm really happy with them to replace some squeaky ones that came on my Orbea.

AFAIK you don't even need to remove the wheel, just the pin and they both pop out.
I re-seated my calipers by loosening the mounting bolts, squeeze the brake lever so they center, and re-tighten the bolts. I don't recall if I saw this or just found it a way to center/align everything up.
Some bedding in is also suggested - a few hard brakes from speed, and you should be good to go. 👍
Click to expand...
I think you mean Galfer, but I follow you just fine.

I can get Shimano for $14 and the Galfer e-bike is $34 and the Standard is $19.
Next purchase, I will probably try them out and try some kind of pseudo cost-benefit analysis.

I always re-seat calipers and bed new pads in right away with a quick around the block trip.
That way, I don't forget to bed them in.

Regardless, thanks for the tips.
 
Rather than pushing on the pads, buy yourself a bleeding kit and use the pad block - it's slightly tapered so slides in. Less chance of contaminating new pads with crud from a tool. This does require wheel removal, which then involves discovering the bearings are gritty and need replacement....and while you're there the steering head bearings could be greased. It never ends.
 
PDoz said:
<snip> It never ends.
Click to expand...
No it doesn't.
I need to do a complete drivetrain cleaning, but we have your temps here, and at +30C in my uninsulated garage,
I'm limiting my maintenance work until this heat spell disappears and we return to Canadian weather.

I am stealing this from FB:
"Dear Arizona, Thank you for the free trial. We are not interested in your weather at this time. Please cancel our subscription."
 
RandallS said:
No it doesn't.
I need to do a complete drivetrain cleaning, but we have your temps here, and at +30C in my uninsulated garage,
I'm limiting my maintenance work until this heat spell disappears and we return to Canadian weather.

I am stealing this from FB:
"Dear Arizona, Thank you for the free trial. We are not interested in your weather at this time. Please cancel our subscription."
Click to expand...
You need to explain to wife that bike maintenance is critical and needs to be performed in the air conditioned house! :p
 
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