Electric Bike Lights

[post911]

i just bought this 36 to 90v version fisher fab light from luna cycle,
and this light is insane, very nice spread of the light, almost like a square shape with soft edge,
used it on 2900 lumens setting for like 12 miles, the battery was at 58.5v when i plugged in the light, and after 12 miles the battery voltage was 57.2v...i think its good right???

 

[NevadaRocks]

I have a Voltbike Yukon 750 which is a 48VDC system and controls the lights through the display. It came with a Spanninga Kendo+ (a whopping 30 Lux). Unless I missed it in this thread, I did not see any mention of current limitations of controllers that supply the lighting system. I would love to put a high powered B&M light on my bike, but I also don't want to fry any components in my controller. These manufacturers seem to be almost secretive about controller spec's. Based on my calculations, the diminutive Kendo+ uses a mere 1.2 watts of power. The B&M IQ XE pulls 7.5 watts. Am I playing with fire to upgrade?

 

[KLee]

I have a Voltbike Yukon 750 which is a 48VDC system and controls the lights through the display. It came with a Spanninga Kendo+ (a whopping 30 Lux). Unless I missed it in this thread, I did not see any mention of current limitations of controllers that supply the lighting system. I would love to put a high powered B&M light on my bike, but I also don't want to fry any components in my controller. These manufacturers seem to be almost secretive about controller spec's. Based on my calculations, the diminutive Kendo+ uses a mere 1.2 watts of power. The B&M IQ XE pulls 7.5 watts. Am I playing with fire to upgrade?

I have the stock Juiced CCX headlight rated at 1000 Lumens and the B & M IQX-E light wired in parallel to my 52V battery and have no issues when both lights are activated. I'm not sure what the max amps the system is rated for.

 

[mbouck]

I wired the leads in parallel with the stock lights from the controller on my Juiced CCX. The IQX-E needs a certain amount of current to operate. I am not familiar with the electronics of your bike. Perhaps another member can chime in.

The Busch + Müller IQ X E requires 7.5 watts and at 6V pulls about 1.25A (6V is typical controller voltage for headlights). You'll want to check the specs of your controller to see what the headlight output is rated for. I know for Bafang the headlight/taillight outputs are rated 6V @ 500mA - not very useful. However, even with insufficient controller outputs, there is a way to make this work (with a bit of additional circuitry). I have the IQ X E on my Bafang bike, integrated with the controller, and this is how I got it all working:

Jugernaut Ultra 1000 - Dutch commuter style w/ integrated lights

Just finished re-configuring my new Jugernaut Ultra 1000 in "commuter mode" complete with integrated 48V front and rear lighting! Before I get to the integrated lights (because that's it's own story) here are the changes I made to the stock configuration: Busch + Müller IQ X E headlight (150...

electricbikereview.com

My guess is if the light is periodically cutting-out you're probably over-driving the headlight output.

 

[Mtl_Biker]

I want to upgrade the headlight on my 2019 Giant Explore E+1... it came with an Axa Blueline 30, and it's just not bright enough for my commute in the early morning and evening as the days get shorter and much darker. Part of my commute is through a wooded nature park and I need to see where I'm going. Because the Blueline 30 seemed to be damaged during the bike being shipped to me and the connection IN the light was faulty, the dealer sent me a replacement light which he took from another bike in his showroom. That's a Spanninga Axendo 40. That's also not going to be bright enough. So I found this thread and did some more research on the web.

Thinking of possibly the Busch & Muller IQ-X E, or maybe the Supernova Mini Pro-25. Either of them should pretty much be plug and play on the E+1 I think (and hope). Any thoughts? I don't see the Mini Pro-25 mentioned in this thread... is it a very new model?

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks very much.

 

[Mtl_Biker]

Just ordered the Busch & Muller IQ-X E. Should have it (hopefully) sometime next week. It's coming from Germany to me in Canada.

 

[pullenj]

I replaced the Axa Blueline 30 with the B&M IQ-X E and have been really happy with the new light. It was pretty much plug & play... I pulled the excess wire out of the downtube and then cut it about half way (left the quick connect still installed),then soldered the wires together and finally stuffed all the excess back into the downtube. Make sure you check the light before soldering because my wire ended up having to be crossed the black / black-white wires on the light were backwards from the bike.

 

[Mtl_Biker]

I replaced the Axa Blueline 30 with the B&M IQ-X E and have been really happy with the new light. It was pretty much plug & play... I pulled the excess wire out of the downtube and then cut it about half way (left the quick connect still installed),then soldered the wires together and finally stuffed all the excess back into the downtube. Make sure you check the light before soldering because my wire ended up having to be crossed the black / black-white wires on the light were backwards from the bike.

Oh I'm very glad to hear you had a good experience with that light. I was a little bit unsure. Did your light come with any wire attached to it? Any connector? I don't think I'm going to cut any wire... oh, you did that to shorten the wire that was in the downtube? Was there really too much wire there? Or did the IQ-X E come with a really long wire with connector already attached?

If there's no connector on the IQ-X E, I'll see if I can pick up the right connector at an electronics store because if this light is as good as I hope, I'm not going to leave it on the bike when/if I sell it.

How is the light when it's really dark? Is it bright enough for use in wooded nature park trails? That's what my worry really is, because my commute involves about 3-4km of such dark trails.

Oh, and thanks for the heads up about the polarity.

 

[pullenj]

The IQ-X E does come with a long length of wire but no connector. The axa light does have a connector on the end that connects to the wire from the bike. I just cut the wire between the connector and the light. Other people have said they added the IQ-X E as a second light without having to cut off the AXA light.
I do like the light profile that the IQ-X E has. Very bright out front with a clear cut off. Wide enough beam too. Right in front of the tire is bright but not too bright. If you see in the photos online it does have kind of a mid beam dark spot which I’m getting used to.
I ride most of my 16 mile commute on a unlit trail and I’m really happy with the light.
I am looking for a helmet light for following my eyes above the cut off. I’m used to having everything illuminated with the typical round beam and it’s nice to be able to keep an eye on the trail sides for anyone hanging out in the bushes.

 

[Mtl_Biker]

The IQ-X E does come with a long length of wire but no connector. The axa light does have a connector on the end that connects to the wire from the bike. I just cut the wire between the connector and the light. Other people have said they added the IQ-X E as a second light without having to cut off the AXA light.
I do like the light profile that the IQ-X E has. Very bright out front with a clear cut off. Wide enough beam too. Right in front of the tire is bright but not too bright. If you see in the photos online it does have kind of a mid beam dark spot which I’m getting used to.
I ride most of my 16 mile commute on a unlit trail and I’m really happy with the light.
I am looking for a helmet light for following my eyes above the cut off. I’m used to having everything illuminated with the typical round beam and it’s nice to be able to keep an eye on the trail sides for anyone hanging out in the bushes.

That's terrific! I'm feeling really good now about ordering that light. 16 mile commute on an unlit trail? That sounds like fun! And no car traffic to deal with! Heaven!

I've got a cracked rib from a bike accident so I'm at work by car and I wish I knew what that connector was called so I could pick one up. There's an electronics store only a couple of blocks away. Oh well. Tomorrow I'll bring one of the lights in to work with me so I can show the shop exactly what I need. I'm so impatient at times and here I don't even have the new light yet and I'm anxious to get the connector!

Thank you for your further review about the light. I appreciate it.

 

[mbouck]

I Have the IQ-X E as well on my Biktrix commuter and no complaints - much better than the stock light. With 150 lux it's 5 times as bright as your old Axa Blueline 30. Are there brighter lights out there ? Yes. Are they necessary? Not unless you're doing downhill with no moon in a forest...I find the IQ-X E to be more than sufficient for my needs. Also - this light is designed for commuter use as there are sidelights (for visibility) and the lens design ensures you don't blind on-coming motorists; a very important safety feature absent from many lights. On that note, you might want to consider running a tail light as well.

 

[Mtl_Biker]

I Have the IQ-X E as well on my Biktrix commuter and no complaints - much better than the stock light. With 150 lux it's 5 times as bright as your old Axa Blueline 30. Are there brighter lights out there ? Yes. Are they necessary? Not unless you're doing downhill with no moon in a forest...I find the IQ-X E to be more than sufficient for my needs. Also - this light is designed for commuter use as there are sidelights (for visibility) and the lens design ensures you don't blind on-coming motorists; a very important safety feature absent from many lights. On that note, you might want to consider running a tail light as well.

Thanks for that info. I do have a taillight... I think the stock one is good enough, but I also have a flashing red one (very bright) attached to the back of my helmet which I turn on if I feel nervous in traffic. I don't think I need to change the stock rear light on the bike.

 

[Mtl_Biker]

Has anyone sourced one of the connectors Giant uses from the headlight to the wire in the downtube? I've got my new light coming without any connector and I really don't want to cut the existing connector off (because when/if I sell the bike I plan to restore it to factory condition). I've been to the two biggest electronics parts suppliers in Montreal and while they seem to have hundreds of connectors they say they've never seen a "proprietary" one like this. I even called two Giant dealers just in case they might have changed out a damaged headlight for a client and kept the old one, and I'd salvage the connector from it. No luck. And searching the web for connectors didn't turn one up. If I knew what it was called or had a part number it would help.

It's the connector on the right in this photo:

I suppose one (expensive) option is to buy another light just to have the connector. But that's a last resort, and I'd probably change to a different type of connector in that case.

Any ideas?

 

[AguassissiM]

@Mtl_Biker

Have you tried an appliance parts supply store, it looks like a washing machine speed sensor connector, mind you that I have been mistaken before.... You have nothing to loose by asking....

 

[mbouck]

You need to get a Bafang Headlight Cable or a Yamaha e-bike headlight cable (look to be same connector).

 

[Mtl_Biker]

You need to get a Bafang Headlight Cable.

Thanks, but I don't think that's the right cable. At least from the photo on the site it doesn't look like it. And I'm not going to pay the money plus shipping to Canada and wait a week or longer before I get it, unless I'm absolutely sure it's the right thing.

Plus by the time I get it here, in Canadian dollars, it'll be very close to the price of my just buying a brand new headlight and then cutting off the connector.

I never imagined it would be difficult to get a dinky little connector. SIGH

 

[mbouck]

Search: 13 results found for "light cable"

Explore top ebikes and electric bicycles at Canada’s e-bike superstore. Shop the world's best electric bike brands in-store in Ottawa or online now!

shop-usa.scooteretti.com

The SyncDrive Pro motor in your bike is a Giant-rebranded Yamaha motor.

 

[Mtl_Biker]

Search: 13 results found for "light cable"

Explore top ebikes and electric bicycles at Canada’s e-bike superstore. Shop the world's best electric bike brands in-store in Ottawa or online now!

shop-usa.scooteretti.com

The SyncDrive Pro motor in your bike is a Giant-rebranded Yamaha motor.

How the heck did you ever find that???

But it looks more like the plug at the left on my photo than the one I want on the right. I'm going to have to call them to ask about that. Plus it looks like from the description, that it plugs directly into the motor, meaning a lot more opening of the bike to make the connection. And then no connection up near the light if the light needs to be changed.

Thank you.

 

[Mtl_Biker]

@mbouck - No luck, unfortunately. That cable must be plugged in at the motor and then spliced to the wire from the light. The plug is the male one and I need the female. I did find another cable (on a European site) but by the time I bring it in with the international shipping charges it would cost more than a new bottom model e-bike light from Giant. My dealer is going to call me back with a price but he thinks the light is about $40. Still a lot of money.

I'm probably just going to give up my idea of keeping the wiring completely stock and change those connectors to something else. Only challenge is going to be to find one small enough to fit through the hole into the frame. But I can get a bunch of connectors for under $10 and change them on the stock light and wire in the bike, and also on my new light. I guess it doesn't really matter to anyone (future buyer of my bike) that the connector might not be the original Giant one.

I'd be foolish to spend the money on a light just to get the connector, or to pay the price of getting a different cable from Europe.

 

[mbouck]

I'd just use different connectors - a prospective buyer shouldn't care. That's what I did.