E3 Dash malfunction help?

[Mark J. Wilson]

I purchased a Currie 2014 E3 Dash a few months ago. After only a couple weeks, it started to lose power, then regain power while peddling, like someone was tapping the brakes. It gave an E6 error message. The dealer replaced the lower connection between the control or battery and hub motor. It still gave me the same problems, but no E6 error message. The dealer replaced the entire bike. The replacement worked fine for a few rides then, it too, started doing the same thing and gave an E6 error message. The dealer called tech support for Currie. They said to check the wire connections in the handlebar control panel. The dealer checked that and it is still doing it, but no more E6 error code. The dealer says he has sold several E3 Dash without similar problems. REI sells this same bike, so I checked with them. They say they have not experienced this problem before. I love the bike, but I am fed up with this persistent problem. I have taken it back to the dealer at least 6 or 8 times. I have told him I either want it fixed or another replacement. Anyone have any advice?

 

[Charly Banana]

I have told him I either want it fixed or another replacement. Anyone have any advice?

I agree wholeheartedly! When one pays this kind of money for a bicycle, the bicycle should be built to be trouble free and dependable. The Dash is a beautiful bike and when it works, it's a wonderful ride. But, there have been too many problems for too many people.

Advice? I agree with you on demanding a trouble free bike. If you want advice on trouble shooting, there are several things you can look at. First of all, (Link Removed - No Longer Exists).

Error 6 is the Brake Cut-off Sensor and they list some things to look at. Also, (Link Removed - No Longer Exists). Function 7 tests the brake sensors. Normally, the value should be 000 and go to 001 when either brake is applied. The nice thing about the Diagnostics page is you can ride with this running and see if the value goes to 001 when the bike stops running.

Another thing to look at is the connectors, especially the male pins and female contacts. I found a female connector that had a female contact that was pushed back and not making good contact with the male pin. Most of the connectors are located in the down tube hole at the bottom bracket location. Be careful when pulling out the connectors. They are small and can be damaged if not pulled out carefully.

The other connectors to look at are the two going in the back of the LCD display. Again when the connectors are pulled, look closely at the male and female contacts.

Good luck.

 

[Mark J. Wilson]

I agree wholeheartedly! When one pays this kind of money for a bicycle, the bicycle should be built to be trouble free and dependable. The Dash is a beautiful bike and when it works, it's a wonderful ride. But, there have been too many problems for too many people.

Advice? I agree with you on demanding a trouble free bike. If you want advice on trouble shooting, there are several things you can look at. First of all, (Link Removed - No Longer Exists).

Error 6 is the Brake Cut-off Sensor and they list some things to look at. Also, (Link Removed - No Longer Exists). Function 7 tests the brake sensors. Normally, the value should be 000 and go to 001 when either brake is applied. The nice thing about the Diagnostics page is you can ride with this running and see if the value goes to 001 when the bike stops running.

Another thing to look at is the connectors, especially the male pins and female contacts. I found a female connector that had a female contact that was pushed back and not making good contact with the male pin. Most of the connectors are located in the down tube hole at the bottom bracket location. Be careful when pulling out the connectors. They are small and can be damaged if not pulled out carefully.

The other connectors to look at are the two going in the back of the LCD display. Again when the connectors are pulled, look closely at the male and female contacts.

Good luck.

Thank you, Charly, for the information and for your support.

 

[ChrisD_]

I think I'm having a similar, possibly the same, problem. Yesterday when I was riding I experienced a noticeable increase in resistance / reduction in power that would come and go. To me it feels like an increase in resistance but it could also be a drop in power. I've never seen an 'E6' or other error in the display.

For example, on my last ride at one point I was riding with pedal assist 1 at about 22.5 mph and felt the drop start. As well as I could I pedaled with the same force and watched my speed drop by 1.5 to 2 mph. This doesn't happen regularly, can be so subtle that if I'm not on a straight/level road or path is hard to detect, and sometimes seems to take 10 minutes or more before it will happen.

Is that what you're seeing @Mark J. Wilson?

As far as I can tell this problem also existed before I had the bottom bracket torque sensor replaced on June 12, but the problems resulting from that sensor's gradual and finally complete failure masked it.

I wonder if we can get @CurrieTech to comment? Thank you @Charly Banana, I'll try turning on the diagnostics and ride this weekend.

 

[Charly Banana]

I think I'm having a similar, possibly the same, problem. Yesterday when I was riding I experienced a noticeable increase in resistance / reduction in power that would come and go.

I've noticed the fluctuation of pedal assist also. If it's just for a few seconds at a time, it just might be the software algorithm adjusting itself to the latest inputs. Sometimes I also see the motor slightly speed up for a few seconds after stopping pedaling. This also is probably the time lag of the algorithm in response to input changes. However, error codes and losing power for several minutes or longer most likely is a real failure such as intermittent connections or a failing bottom bracket.

I'm sure CurrieTech could have some valuable input on this issue.

 

[ChrisD_]

Yes, an error code and complete loss would be a more substantial problem.

So do you think this is a permanent characteristic of the bike, this 'fluctuation'? I've also thought of this as a software glitch, something in the real-time control process. I tend think it's a persistent condition but would be glad to hear that it was tied to a particular component being out of spec or operating intermittently.

(I wonder if this thread could somehow be xref'd to the Brands > IZIP forum.)

 

[Mark J. Wilson]

I hate to say it, but I am experiencing all of the above! Chris and Charly have each described my problems better than I could myself.

 

[DashRiprock]

I'll try turning on the diagnostics and ride this weekend.

• Thank you, ChrisD. I'm hoping that Mark will be able to do this as well, the two of you can get back with us and then perhaps CurrieTech will have something to go on. The more riders we have performing these same 'pre-dealer-visit' checklists (hopefully with CT's input) the less time wasted by all of us with our bikes in the shop. I troubleshoot equipment/systems regularly and am continually searching for a common thread or the next person's experience as well to get the whole story.

 

[ChrisD_]

I just got back from my ride with the diagnostics display and the 'fluctuation' didn't occur. I meant to go for a short ride over on a nice paved, flat bike path, but I got over there and realized how nice it was out, so I went more than 20 miles. It's fun to be back on a bike!



It took me a little fiddling to get it into my head that once I had the diagnostic display I could still change the pedal assist level (1-2-3-4-T-0) with <+/->, and change the diagnostic display ("Function ID") with <i>.

I experimented with all of the display functions. #2 differed from #1 by +3, within the +/-8 tolerance specified. All of the others behaved predictably.

I decided to watch on this ride only diagnostic/function display 3, Motor Command. The Currie (Link Removed - No Longer Exists) say "This is the command value from the controller to the motor which represents the motor output, and is affected by both pedaling and throttle inputs. Maximum throttle will yield 800." I hoped to see the value drop if/when a 'fluctuation' occurred.

No problem occurred this ride, though the wind came up with gusts probably approaching 30 and steady breezes around 20. At the beginning and end of the ride I'm pretty sheltered from the wind, but the middle is along the bay and out in the wind. Still, a 'steady' wind isn't anything like really steady, so something might have happened I just didn't feel.

I'll have at least 3 rides this week and I'll keep this diagnostic display on, and I'll see if anything interesting happens.

 

[ChrisD_]

Commuted to work today. Calm and overcast and, for us at least, muggy. Still - so much more fun than driving.

I noticed two 'fluctuations' but momentary, not the long event that got me to reply on this thread. Both occurred when the motor command was reading 585 to 600, and then suddenly dropped to the 560s. I don't have the speedometer display in diagnostic mode but I was probably going 19 to 21 mph. It felt like braking more than a drop in power, but I guess the two might be interchangeable.

Also noticed for the first time that the battery icon doesn't update while the diagnostic display is running.

 

[HumanitiesHaze]

I find the Torque sensor works best when you pedal straight down more than forward and then down. Meaning, keeping the pedals as horizontal as possible and use the powerstroke of your legs to push down instead of forward and then down. And keep a constant steady pressure on your legs without fluctuating torque and cadence of the pedals.

 

[CurrieTech]

I purchased a Currie 2014 E3 Dash a few months ago. After only a couple weeks, it started to lose power, then regain power while peddling, like someone was tapping the brakes. It gave an E6 error message. The dealer replaced the lower connection between the control or battery and hub motor. It still gave me the same problems, but no E6 error message. The dealer replaced the entire bike. The replacement worked fine for a few rides then, it too, started doing the same thing and gave an E6 error message. The dealer called tech support for Currie. They said to check the wire connections in the handlebar control panel. The dealer checked that and it is still doing it, but no more E6 error code. The dealer says he has sold several E3 Dash without similar problems. REI sells this same bike, so I checked with them. They say they have not experienced this problem before. I love the bike, but I am fed up with this persistent problem. I have taken it back to the dealer at least 6 or 8 times. I have told him I either want it fixed or another replacement. Anyone have any advice?

Mark,
Sorry for the trouble with your new bike. I think everyone beat me to it, but gave you great advice. It may be as simiple as a loose wire up front, behind the LCD screen and the thumb-pad. It's pretty easy to check, by opening the backing panel on both with their little Phillips screws. Just get the battery off the bike first. Also check that the tear-drop shaped bit on the end of the brake sensors, are not flopping around under the brake levers. If they break communication with the tiny magnet at the brake wire buttons, the bike will think your brakes are on, and stop motor power.

Also if your bike is more than a month or so old, make sure your shop checks that the bottom bracket is properly tightened. If it's loose, it can affect your PAS modes erratically and potentially rotate in the bike and sever the wires.

I'm sure we can help get you fixed up how ever you need. Have your shop call us!

 

[ChrisD_]

After a week of commuting I can't say I've seen anything like the 'fluctuation' that I'd experienced and had me join this thread. Running with the diagnostic display has made it much easier to see that the motor/controller are operating smoothly and the changes I've experienced have been wind gusts or something else. I do occasionally experience brief continued acceleration when I've let off the pedals as @Charly Banana described.

I haven't tried tinkering with the pedal stoke the way @HumanitiesHaze described. I suppose I'm just pressing down... without clip on shoes or toe clips it didn't occur to me to push forward or pull back. I'll continue to watch the diagnostic display but at this point don't really think the 'fluctuation' is really happening for me.