i understand what you are saying and i also use amendments for added puncture resistance but curious about your statement that their technologies are “just marketing”.
do you have specific objective evidence to support this conclusion or is this a subjective conclusion you’ve come to over time.
the “technologies” mentioned in their “marketing” make some specific claims with regard to material and thickness specifications as a means of differentiating them from “regular tires”…. are you suggesting that none of that is in fact true? that the tires do not have these different added layers and materials?
trying to cut through brand perception variabilities and stick to facts. thx.
Show me those specifics, please. They will fall into one of the categories below. Beyond this it will be your level of experience and understanding that will determine how much of the claim you consider to be functionally real or ... marketing bullshit.
Puncture resistance is a property that comes about via a number of areas. The lowest level of protection is to decrease the thread count on the tire. You see this primarily on downhill tires. If you have some experience with bicycle tires - particularly with respect to cycling, you will have become familiar with the tpi counds, and what is considered desirable on a bicycle. A road bike is going to find 120 and the rare 160 tpi to allow the thinnest casing with the most supple performance. A 30 tpi casing is the opposite. Its more of a thick hide and prior to ebikes was used primarily with downhill tires that needed to absorb enormous stresses. If you research this I can't see anyone disagreeing with that point. So if a tire is 30 tpi then it has a modicum of puncture resistance purely because its a little thicker and more durable.
Another level, that will vary entirely by tire, is to simply put more rubber on the tread side (thickness). Thats generally fine so long as there are no gaps. And since there always are, you'll often find nails have a way of finding said gaps. I'll class this as marketing, as while there may be thick parts there are also very thin ones. A great example of this is the Chaoyang Sandstorm which has a super thick tread that is long-wearing, but the lines in between the tread are super thin. I stopped using these tires because of the frequency of flats as the tires seemingly never saw a nail they didn't want to get stabbed with, and the thick tread was useless to stop them.
The next level is usually going to be found via the tires designated with an e25 or e50 certification. The number is the max km/h speed the tire is rated for. Here again, protection is applied via thicker rubber, with e50 tires being more substantial than e25. But the thicker casing is more aimed at performance at high speed than it is at flatproofing. Still, it achieves a similar benefit to a 30 tpi tire without going to 30 tpi. A good example of this would be the Schwalbe Crazy Bob, that has no belts but is a thick, strong e50 tire. I've never flatted with any e50 tire, but THAT is subjective and you already said you hate that

. Worth noting: Many e50 tires have puncture-resistant belts but that is not necessary to get an e50 designation.
Up past that, is a tire with extra casing layers to provide flatproofing. Perhaps the most hi profile member in the cycling community is the Schwalbe Pickup. Its a tire designed for very high loads - cargo bikes - but it has no under-tread puncture resistance belts. Still, this is the first tire on the list that has features specific to puncture resistance that are truly effective.
Next we get into belts. This is where a tire becomes genuinely puncture-resistant. Tires with belts can be e25, e50 or have no such rating. Belts can be thin, thick or made up of different materials. If there is a famous tire in this category its the Schwalbe Marathon Plus that is effectively flatproof. Not so hi profile is the Continental Contact Plus City which is a direct competitor to the Schwalbe and which used to be much cheaper.
Thats it for determining the puncture resistance of a tire. Whats left is for you to understand whether a manufacturer's claim is worth anything in real life. Add to that some experience: Fat tires are heavy. Learn how much they tend to weigh. Look at the weight of the tire you are reviewing. Is there enough added weight to lend credence to a claim? Is a claim of magical casing properties credible on a cheap tire from Durkadurkastan? I obviously made that up... Bottom line is experience counts, and an old saying applies here: keep an open mind, but not so open your brains fall out.