DIY -vs- Purpose Built ($1k -vs- $10k)

[J.R.]

Fair enough comparison. Not all encompassing; the purpose built, factory bike has better gearing and suspension for off road. The comparison doesn't go deep into the ride experience. Still both are 250 watts, big batteries and torque sensing. I'm really impressed with the kit bike! A lot for the money.

 

[Ebiker01]

- after doing a few necessary upgrades the kit Ebike will get close to 2k . Still it's a good rainy day lemon.

- one imp. aspect that they've talked about is locking the ebike . Well what do you do with the DIY ebike battery ? You can't just leave it there on the top tube attached only with velcro. Even with screws is not secured. To remove it, gotta unplug a bunch of wires, etc..
They would rather take the battery in a few seconds then the 10k ebike in 2-3minutes.

Can put 3 or 4 heavy and thick chains if you park in the same place. Keeping the chains on the post/bike rack. But i would take a Levo straight through an offcie building front door and into my office. Some companies have their own parking downstairs. For a 10k ebike NO , it would have to be as close to the owner as possible.

 

[J.R.]

- after doing a few necessary upgrades the kit Ebike will get close to 2k . Still it's a good rainy day lemon.

- one imp. aspect that they've talked about is locking the ebike . Well what do you do with the DIY ebike battery ? You can't just leave it there on the top tube attached only with velcro. Even with screws is not secured. To remove it, gotta unplug a bunch of wires, etc..
They would rather take the battery in a few seconds then the 10k ebike in 2-3minutes.

Can put 3 or 4 heavy and thick chains if you park in the same place. Keeping the chains on the post/bike rack. But i would take a Levo straight through an offcie building front door and into my office. Some companies have their own parking downstairs. For a 10k ebike NO , it would have to be as close to the owner as possible.

I can't imagine what one would need to add that would double the cost. No one ebike will be all things to all people.

This bike was built in attempt to make a quality ebike without breaking the bank. The limited comparison was to show quality performance could be achieved by DIY. It wasn't built to survive the apocalypse, or any and all crime riddled environments. That's the Do It Yourself idea: build for your needs.

 

[TomD]

Why go to extremes for a comparison? There are perfectly capable eMTB for half the price, including Specialized. I'd love to see a comparison a year from now with this kit on an entry level FS MTB compared to an entry level FS eMTB. That would give a better idea of what a bike + kit for half the cost compares.

 

[indianajo]

- one imp. aspect that they've talked about is locking the ebike . Well what do you do with the DIY ebike battery ? You can't just leave it there on the top tube attached only with velcro. Even with screws is not secured. To remove it, gotta unplug a bunch of wires, etc..

I've got my battery caged in an aluminum angle frame, with foam all around it and a plastic bag on top. Half inch foam keeps one from touching the battery with your fingers. 12 screws hold frame together that take an 8" long driver to reach through the frame & foam to loosen. Elastic stop nuts so the nut doesn't spin off in half a turn, you have to crank it 10-15 turns while holding head still. Men twice have tried to remove a screw or two, while I was inside the store. Gave up. Actually taking four nuts off will remove the frame mount from bicycle frame, but even if you do that takes a nail puller to pry the 3.5" long bolts out of the frame. Those are double nutted, one elastic, so takes 2 wrenches counter torquing to even get the nuts off. One has to be thinned out with a grinder to hold the inner nut. Nobody has even tried to remove those. Takes 15-20 minutes to get the battery off; I only do that to leave it in the garage for freezing weather in the winter. 10-15 minutes to get the battery back on.
Wires- There are two, a red & a black, with insulated spade lugs to disconnect. Sex is reversed so you can't plug it in backwards. Industrial quality crimp lugs don't let go when you hit a big bump.
Battery frame could be cut with torch or grinder, but that would set the foam on fire. Big stink and display. Thinking of putting some magnesium ribbon in the foam to make sure the whole battery catches fire if someone tries that.
Controller with 8 wires is easier to steal, but it is a $35 part. Not worried about it. Rides under the seat out of the rain. I deleted the display: inaccurate, showed zero @ 30 mph downhill, and fogged up in the rain. Throttle has 3 color LEDs for battery charge.
Front wheel with motor could be stolen with 2 screwdrivers & a wrench. If I leave bike on street in bad neighborhoods I take 2 cables & locks so I can lock that too.

 

[tomjasz]

A scratch build using quality components can easily cost as much as many decent eBikes. Or be spartan and very affordable.

 

[Ebiker01]

Front wheel with motor could be stolen with 2 screwdrivers & a wrench.

Likewise as you, besides locks , I also use this for fw and seatpost:

Amazon.com : ABUS Wheel Lock Nutfix Quick Release Pair Skewer Length 100f/135r Wheel Lock, Black : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : ABUS Wheel Lock Nutfix Quick Release Pair Skewer Length 100f/135r Wheel Lock, Black : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

The bike would have to be placed horizontally in order to access the nut. I don't know how exactly it works... but it works great. I've tried stealing my own wheel and couldn't do it.


I look forward to gain maybe 1/10 of your skills and techniques by reading your insightfull posts.

Ty for sharing the wisdom&knowledge.

 

[indianajo]

I use the 5" long 10-32 bolt to hole the front wheel on. https://www.mcmaster.com/90276A850
Also an elastic stop nut and 2 washers. If you weigh more than 200 lb or jump curbs you might need a thicker bolt.
Bicycle thieves don't tend to carry an 11/32" combination wrench. Bamboozle them.