Derailleur adjustment after removing wheel

Rondak46

New Member
Hello, Level owner here. I just replaced a rear spoke and struggled a bit when I was sorting-out how to get the chain and derailleur positioned as I reinstalled the wheel. Now it’s not shifting properly. It doesn’t want to go to the biggest gear and I can hear that it is not set right for the smaller gears. The cable / barrel adjuster for indexing seems like an easy go-to but I am thinking that someone with more experience might have something to say, such as “if your cable adjustmentwas fine before it’s going to be something else like limiters or alignment”. Any thoughts or should I just start working the cable / barrel adjuster?

Cheers, Mike
 
In my experience, once you take off your rear wheel, the derailleur will ALWAYS go out of adjustment. I can't think of a single case where I didn't have to re-adjust the derailleur.
actually it should not go out of adjustment unless you hit it. if you have the wheel seated properly it should not need re adjsutment. maybe if it is a really cheap one but any normal one it should not need adjustment.
 
I've found that it does happen. Maybe not with every wheel drop but often enough.
If you have a barrel adjustment at the shifter I've usually been able to get it dialed back in with slight adjustments there while on the road.
 
well what can I say, it happens to be every time.

and no, I didn't hit anything. 🤔
sounds liek the wheel is not going in the the same every time. something is off. are you shifting to the smallest gear before you take the wheel off?
 
You either have something wrong with your bike, or you are not doing something correctly.
I find that my ebike with through axles has absolutely no issues with derailleur adjustment after removing the rear wheel.

Our mech bikes have skewers. I find that I need to take the bikes off the stand after replacing the rear wheel to completely seat the axle in the drops. When I do, there's no derailleur issue. If I don't there are shifting problems. Lesson learned.
 
I definitely caused my own problem. It was the first time that I took off a derailleured wheel in some 25 years. I caused it to go out of adjustment while trying to get it on. It shouldn’t be a struggle next time. One tip for the Aventon Level... remove the drive side nut and washers,.. slide then down the hub drive cable. They got in the way when I was putting the wheel back on.
 
I find that my ebike with through axles has absolutely no issues with derailleur adjustment after removing the rear wheel.

Our mech bikes have skewers. I find that I need to take the bikes off the stand after replacing the rear wheel to completely seat the axle in the drops. When I do, there's no derailleur issue. If I don't there are shifting problems. Lesson learned.
love me some through axels makes life so much easier. bu only have one on the rear of our tandem.
 
love me some through axels makes life so much easier. bu only have one on the rear of our tandem.
Until we got our ebikes with front and rear through axles I just assumed it was mostly marketing hype; more stable, better control, etc, etc. For once, it's not hype. At this point in my life I am hard to impress, but these axles did it. No hype, just better...😎
 
I always make sure to seat the wheel on the ground after dropping it out of the stand and always check dics brake clearance as well...but like I said sometimes I've got to tweak my indexing. Typically just a 1/4 turn or two gets it good again.
It could be the entry level Altus derailleur?
 
I always make sure to seat the wheel on the ground after dropping it out of the stand and always check dics brake clearance as well...but like I said sometimes I've got to tweak my indexing. Typically just a 1/4 turn or two gets it good again.
It could be the entry level Altus derailleur?
A good chance of that being the problem. I don't expect to adjust my derailed till I crash or replace a cable.
 
In my experience, once you take off your rear wheel, the derailleur will ALWAYS go out of adjustment. I can't think of a single case where I didn't have to re-adjust the derailleur.

Curios... does your bike have a rear suspension?
I've found that suspension adds to the equation.
 
I've had my rear wheel off quite a few times, replaced 2 direct drive motors, then installed a 3rd gear driven motor, and have not had to adjust my derailleur. Shifts perfectly with no delay. Must be lucky.
 
7 speed freewheel here, but that shouldn't make much difference. Not sure what you have going on Timpo.

Clearly you know what you're doing, so 'prolly not that big a deal anyway.
 
There's a few variables that can add to poor shifting such as wear on components and even a dry chain.
Maybe try going a bit beyond settings suggested by Park tool.
I've found that if I follow it to the ť I will have poor shifting to the smallest and largest sprocket so I back out the limit screws a touch and all is better.
Also having a rear suspension I find that what is perfect in the stand doesn't always translate to perfect on the road and I need to tweak a hair.
That said I've had it running perfectly for months and then drop the wheel and have it off by a hair myself... So I know what you are talking about. Doesn't happen every time... But enough that I am aware of it.
Barrel adjustment on the shifter is my friend. 😊
 
That video Timpo posted ( and TomD on his Frey CC thread ) changed my life. The whole thing was a dark mystery until I went through that vid. 👍 😁
 
Until we got our ebikes with front and rear through axles I just assumed it was mostly marketing hype; more stable, better control, etc, etc. For once, it's not hype. At this point in my life I am hard to impress, but these axles did it. No hype, just better...😎


Where'd you get your through Axel?
 
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