February
Active Member
- Region
- USA
It is a quick release with skewer, not designed for this model.
Cursed by the E-bike gods
- Thread starter February
- Start date
Nvreloader
Western Nevada
- Region
- USA
Feb
Thank you, you have a QR skewer front axle.
Do you have any bearings, that came with the front tire/rim?
The way this front axle fits the dropouts with a QR skewer is this,
the bearing are installed in the hub, the cone bushings tapered ends are adjusted to the bearings and at the same time the axle is centered as close as possible and locked down using the thin nuts and the eyed hook lock, to have the same amount of the axle sticking out (on each end).
Then the axle/wheel is inserted into the fork drop outs, there should be the same amount of the axel sticking out in the drop out channel.
The QR skewer is then inserted thru the axle and the end is adjusted to lock down on the end of the bearing cones (see the marks around the cone end), the QR skewer is tight enough when the skewer handle leaves a mark in your hand,
(there should be about 1/8 to 1/4" space length difference/distance shorter than the drop out length space, for/on the axle.)
The axle should NOT touch either end of the locking ends
on the skewer, when locked down properly.
If you have the bearings, you can properly/safely fit the tire into the fork.
Tia
Thank you, you have a QR skewer front axle.
Do you have any bearings, that came with the front tire/rim?
The way this front axle fits the dropouts with a QR skewer is this,
the bearing are installed in the hub, the cone bushings tapered ends are adjusted to the bearings and at the same time the axle is centered as close as possible and locked down using the thin nuts and the eyed hook lock, to have the same amount of the axle sticking out (on each end).
Then the axle/wheel is inserted into the fork drop outs, there should be the same amount of the axel sticking out in the drop out channel.
The QR skewer is then inserted thru the axle and the end is adjusted to lock down on the end of the bearing cones (see the marks around the cone end), the QR skewer is tight enough when the skewer handle leaves a mark in your hand,
(there should be about 1/8 to 1/4" space length difference/distance shorter than the drop out length space, for/on the axle.)
The axle should NOT touch either end of the locking ends
on the skewer, when locked down properly.
If you have the bearings, you can properly/safely fit the tire into the fork.
Tia
MTO
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I think @Nvreloader is probably right.
I hope you enjoy your Vivi. I got the fat tire mountain bike, have about 1,000 miles on it and it’s been great. A lot of bang for the buck!
I’m not so much po’ (lol) as I am cheap.
I hope you enjoy your Vivi. I got the fat tire mountain bike, have about 1,000 miles on it and it’s been great. A lot of bang for the buck!
I’m not so much po’ (lol) as I am cheap.
February
Active Member
- Region
- USA
Oh I was just bemoaning my current situation because I'm rural and broke at the moment. Tis better to have an ebike than not!I think @Nvreloader is probably right.
I hope you enjoy your Vivi. I got the fat tire mountain bike, have about 1,000 miles on it and it’s been great. A lot of bang for the buck!
I’m not so much po’ (lol) as I am cheap.
Nvreloader
Western Nevada
- Region
- USA
Feb
I forgot to add this info,
You must center the disc brake at the same time as centering the overall axle length. A lot of bikes come with disc brakes now a days.
I forgot to add this info,
You must center the disc brake at the same time as centering the overall axle length. A lot of bikes come with disc brakes now a days.
MTO
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Fo’ sure!
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
I'm posting some pictures of my QR axle with skewer for reference sake.
My threaded axle is not as wide as the dropout.
I think that you've got the same sort of thing going on with your wheel??
I have no idea why you are supposed to install the races and bearings though?
My wheel came completely assembled, and I just installed it in the dropouts and tightened up the skewer.
Did you take your wheel apart and remove the races and bearings?
PS,..
I don't like it either.
It's a piss poor design that should have been updated (lengthened) to fit the thicker aluminum forks That ALL New E-bikes have !!
There really should be a standard axle installed on aluminum forks that is about 4mm longer...
If the axle sticks out a smidgen past the drop-out, it fits inside the cupped QR nut and would still allow for a proper squeeze of the QR without it pinching the axle ends.
My threaded axle is not as wide as the dropout.
I think that you've got the same sort of thing going on with your wheel??
I have no idea why you are supposed to install the races and bearings though?
My wheel came completely assembled, and I just installed it in the dropouts and tightened up the skewer.
Did you take your wheel apart and remove the races and bearings?
PS,..
I don't like it either.
It's a piss poor design that should have been updated (lengthened) to fit the thicker aluminum forks That ALL New E-bikes have !!
There really should be a standard axle installed on aluminum forks that is about 4mm longer...
If the axle sticks out a smidgen past the drop-out, it fits inside the cupped QR nut and would still allow for a proper squeeze of the QR without it pinching the axle ends.
Last edited:
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
Your right.
It's made for steel forks that are half as thick.
I see no reason why a longer axle isn't Standard Issue with an aluminum fork?
Aluminum is a lot softer than steel, and the axle chews it up really good,..
Last edited:
indianajo
Well-Known Member
In the city, I would ride around on my bike the evening before garbage pickup and pull the front wheel & skewer off a scrap kiddie bike. In the country, not as profitable. Although I picked up an oil drain pan I needed last summer for free - 3 of them actually, clean. 20 miles from the city.
Having seen 3 bikes chained up without front wheels the day after Derby one year, I trashed my front QR skewer. I replaced it with a 4 1/2" bolt, nut, and some washers from mcmaster.com. If you don't need the other 9 bolts of the pack, probably cheaper to buy used from the bike shop. Just freight Cleveland/Louisville is $9.
Having seen 3 bikes chained up without front wheels the day after Derby one year, I trashed my front QR skewer. I replaced it with a 4 1/2" bolt, nut, and some washers from mcmaster.com. If you don't need the other 9 bolts of the pack, probably cheaper to buy used from the bike shop. Just freight Cleveland/Louisville is $9.
Last edited:
February
Active Member
- Region
- USA
Thanks to all who tried to help with the QR, but they did not give me the proper nuts to put it on. Went to bike shop and they fixed me right up. I didn't even want a qr. I am much happier with just a solid axle.
Took her out for her maiden voyage. You get what you pay for... The brakes are horrible, at least 15 ft stopping distance at even low speeds. The top pedal assist will go up to 20 mph as will cruise, but you can feel the limiter fighting with hub motor the second you go over 20 mph on cruise mode, so for now, just using top pedal assist which will go up to 22mph without cutting out. I have serious doubts about range on battery using any pedal assist except mode 1 or 2. I rode her about 9 miles/14 km in mostly the high assist and cruise modes and drained the battery half way. As I get stronger, I should be able to use the lower modes more often. Even assist level 4 is enough to make climbing tall steep hills a breeze in top gear. All in all, I'm thrilled! Here she is, the "Betty 2":
Took her out for her maiden voyage. You get what you pay for... The brakes are horrible, at least 15 ft stopping distance at even low speeds. The top pedal assist will go up to 20 mph as will cruise, but you can feel the limiter fighting with hub motor the second you go over 20 mph on cruise mode, so for now, just using top pedal assist which will go up to 22mph without cutting out. I have serious doubts about range on battery using any pedal assist except mode 1 or 2. I rode her about 9 miles/14 km in mostly the high assist and cruise modes and drained the battery half way. As I get stronger, I should be able to use the lower modes more often. Even assist level 4 is enough to make climbing tall steep hills a breeze in top gear. All in all, I'm thrilled! Here she is, the "Betty 2":
MTO
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
The only two things to mine I did was change out the weak brakes for dual piston mechanicals and did a settings hack that did away with the speed limiter. The fastest I can get it going is 29 mph with the throttle. I also mounted a spare battery so range isn’t an issue.
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