Creo SL 1x Chainguide?

Is removing the crank necessary to replace the chainring?! I own no Creo but the procedure of replacing the chainring in my Vado and Vado SL is simple:
  • Remove the drive-side pedal
  • Unscrew the chainring bolts
  • Remove the chainring
  • Replace the chainring
  • Tighten bolts
  • Replace the pedal.
To make my work easier (the access from the non-drive side), I remove the motor cover first.
No, crank does not need to come off. Once the bolts are undone on the chainring, there is plenty of room to lift it off
 
Is removing the crank necessary to replace the chainring?! I own no Creo but the procedure of replacing the chainring in my Vado and Vado SL is simple:
  • Remove the drive-side pedal
  • Unscrew the chainring bolts
  • Remove the chainring
  • Replace the chainring
  • Tighten bolts
  • Replace the pedal.
To make my work easier (the access from the non-drive side), I remove the motor cover first.

i’ve swapped chainrings a few times on my creo. nothing needed to be removed, although i have small pedals.

1) release the clutch on the derailleur, and pull the chain off the chainring and over the crank, getting it out of the way
2) unscrew the 5 bolts
3) remove the chainring, it slips over the crank arm and pedal just fine
4) put new chainring in place
5) repeat 5x : put a drop of loctite on threads of bolt, fit pair of bolts together in holes through chainring and spider. hand tighten
6) with torque wrench, tighten each bolt in a “star” pattern to the specified torque. star meaning you tighten one and then the next one you tighten is not the one next to it, it’s across the ring from it.
7) if the new ring is more than 2 teeth different, use a chain tool to pop the chain apart and remove or add links.
8) replace chain, engage clutch, ride!
 
i’ve swapped chainrings a few times on my creo. nothing needed to be removed, although i have small pedals.

1) release the clutch on the derailleur, and pull the chain off the chainring and over the crank, getting it out of the way
2) unscrew the 5 bolts
3) remove the chainring, it slips over the crank arm and pedal just fine
4) put new chainring in place
5) repeat 5x : put a drop of loctite on threads of bolt, fit pair of bolts together in holes through chainring and spider. hand tighten
6) with torque wrench, tighten each bolt in a “star” pattern to the specified torque. star meaning you tighten one and then the next one you tighten is not the one next to it, it’s across the ring from it.
7) if the new ring is more than 2 teeth different, use a chain tool to pop the chain apart and remove or add links.
8) replace chain, engage clutch, ride!
Ah, so simple. When's your next trip to Seattle?
 
hah! i'm actually in seattle quite often - doing a couple buildings there - but no opportunity to bring a bike! 😖

I don't care about your bike. I want you to work on mine!! ;) You make adding/removing chain links sound so easy.

Oh, are we still expanding? Just today:

 
Ok, here is my newly installed chain ring with green bolts. It was pretty easy to do. Appreciate everyone's help!!
 

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Hello everyone, i have same problem on creo chain drop. I work on a real chain guide next time. Printed in 3d with laser in nylon. I will see
regards🤞
 

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Hello everyone, i have same problem on creo chain drop. I work on a real chain guide next time. Printed in 3d with laser in nylon. I will see
regards🤞
3D printing is a solution, but I am fussy and don't like too many things hanging off the bike. The Gabaruk narrow wide chain has been perfect and not a single dropped chain. The teeth are taller and engage fully making it really hard to drop. It is also half the weight of the Praxis and you can get them in ant teeth size. I now run a 42 with a 10 / 42 on the rear, perfect gears for me.
 
3D printing is a solution, but I am fussy and don't like too many things hanging off the bike. The Gabaruk narrow wide chain has been perfect and not a single dropped chain. The teeth are taller and engage fully making it really hard to drop. It is also half the weight of the Praxis and you can get them in ant teeth size. I now run a 42 with a 10 / 42 on the rear, perfect gears for me.
Hi, I'm interested in how you have mount the garbaruk chainring, i is without integreted threads?
i ride with 10-50 sunrace with 46 and chain is long with this set-up. I will change at 44 think is better we have very steep trails. But I think there is a reason why in races allmost all use a chain guide my 2 cents.
 
Hi, I'm interested in how you have mount the garbaruk chainring, i is without integreted threads?
i ride with 10-50 sunrace with 46 and chain is long with this set-up. I will change at 44 think is better we have very steep trails. But I think there is a reason why in races allmost all use a chain guide my 2 cents.
The Garbaruk chainring fits the standard spider and is a very quick change. Super impressed with their quality. You need 110BCD 5 arm narrow wide. Comes in lots of colours to
 

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The Garbaruk chainring fits the standard spider and is a very quick change. Super impressed with their quality. You need 110BCD 5 arm narrow wide. Comes in lots of colours to
Ok thanks for info to change to a smaller chainring. But i don`t understund how fix you them without thread? You use another screw and nut?
I draw a first chain guide for creo. Next step print it with a fast resin printer.
 

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Ok thanks for info to change to a smaller chainring. But i don`t understund how fix you them without thread? You use another screw and nut?
I draw a first chain guide for creo. Next step print it with a fast resin printer.
Sorry, yea standard 2 piece chainring bolts doe the job, The front threads into the rear
 
Ok thanks for info to change to a smaller chainring. But i don`t understund how fix you them without thread? You use another screw and nut?
You just buy a set of five chainring bolts with nuts. I really recommend buying steel bolts (as opposite to aluminium ones). The tightening torque is 5 Nm.
 
@Dazmanturbo @Stefan Mikes thanks for info are very usefull
probaly i buy a garbaruk chainring in 40/42, because praxis 44 are to little differance to the original praxis 46 and 44 are sold out and have problems to have it on stock. ;)have a nice day on all
 
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Ok, here is my newly installed chain ring with green bolts. It was pretty easy to do. Appreciate everyone's help!!
Hello, I know i'm late to the party but can I ask you a question about chain alignment with a narrow wide chainring? I notice that the praxis fitted as standard is off set by a few mm towards the outside of the bike. And fitting a narrow wide will bring the chainline inwards. Does this affect the chainline when in the smallest cog on the rear as it would be more of an angle than with the praxis?
 
Hello, I know i'm late to the party but can I ask you a question about chain alignment with a narrow wide chainring? I notice that the praxis fitted as standard is off set by a few mm towards the outside of the bike. And fitting a narrow wide will bring the chainline inwards. Does this affect the chainline when in the smallest cog on the rear as it would be more of an angle than with the praxis?
I have a few thousand miles on the Garbaruk chainring and chain alignment is not an issue.
 
Hello, I know i'm late to the party but can I ask you a question about chain alignment with a narrow wide chainring? I notice that the praxis fitted as standard is off set by a few mm towards the outside of the bike. And fitting a narrow wide will bring the chainline inwards. Does this affect the chainline when in the smallest cog on the rear as it would be more of an angle than with the praxis?
Hi. I’m really late to the party! I can answer your question - sort of.
I finally got a garbaruk chainring today since I’ve had two chain drops on my Creo, each time being a right bugger to sort out (on the road) since the chain gets caught between the frame and chainring. But you’re right - the chain line is different, but in my case the garbaruk took the chain line further out from the frame, meaning the chainring lines up with a higher gear than with the Praxis. I assume this will lead to greater chain wear on the lower gears so it’s not ideal. However it does mean there’s greater clearance between the frame and chainring so a dropped chain wouldn’t be such a pain.
I suppose it may be possible to put some washers in to move the chainline in, but then you’d lose some of the clearance.
I haven’t had chance to actually ride the bike with the new chainring - I’ll keep you posted.
 
Hi. I’m really late to the party! I can answer your question - sort of.
I finally got a garbaruk chainring today since I’ve had two chain drops on my Creo, each time being a right bugger to sort out (on the road) since the chain gets caught between the frame and chainring. But you’re right - the chain line is different, but in my case the garbaruk took the chain line further out from the frame, meaning the chainring lines up with a higher gear than with the Praxis. I assume this will lead to greater chain wear on the lower gears so it’s not ideal. However it does mean there’s greater clearance between the frame and chainring so a dropped chain wouldn’t be such a pain.
I suppose it may be possible to put some washers in to move the chainline in, but then you’d lose some of the clearance.
I haven’t had chance to actually ride the bike with the new chainring - I’ll keep you posted.
Odd for a Garbaruk to drop like that. Is the Chainring smaller in teeth, did you adjust the chain length accordingly and is the clutch on?
 
Odd for a Garbaruk to drop like that. Is the Chainring smaller in teeth, did you adjust the chain length accordingly and is the clutch on?
Don't think he's ridden the Garbaruk yet, and the drops occurred with the Praxis.

I also noticed a slight outward shift in the chain line with my Wolftooth - I think the original Praxis is slightly dished while the replacement chainrings are flat.
 
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