Goodair
Member
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Converted my Haibike Cross to a Dura Ace Road Bike
- Thread starter Goodair
- Start date
Saratoga Dave
Well-Known Member
I assume that was a joke, right e-Wheels? Goodair is in a bit of a tiff with Bulls at the moment
That is a damn good looking bike, though, nice job!
That is a damn good looking bike, though, nice job!
pxpaulx
Well-Known Member
It is kinda funny! I'm sure Bulls is going to get this right for Goodair - it is too big of a deal to not get right. Goodair mentioned the smaller distributors that are new to the market need to come up with some kind of network (along the lines of velofix...even using velofix, or local ebike dealers I guess) that can address things like a firmware update.
OK, back to the original topic! The updated bike looks pretty nice for a road bike. It does seem that the motor/pedals are sitting quite a bit closer to the ground as a result of the lowered front end - any issue with pedal strikes, or easily avoided with conscious cornering? It does seem like this year there are a number of road oriented ebikes coming - giant, trek, bulls all have one. But it is always fun to put together your own!
Goodair
Member
Pxpauix, you are very observant, taking off the front suspension did lower it, so instead of using a traditional road fork, I went with a Cyclocross fork, about 20mm taller and a lot beefier for the added weight.
The 44t 11-34 Set up is great 1x11 ratio for non-Es, I need to find a 48T 104BCD chainring, need the top end speed to ride with my Club.
BULLS E-Grinder was consider, but way more $$$$$$$$$$$$$ compared to a 2016 Cross SM, Haibike is blowing these things out right now. So, didn't cost that much to experiment, most of the components I had already, I think it turned out fairly well for what I paid....
The 44t 11-34 Set up is great 1x11 ratio for non-Es, I need to find a 48T 104BCD chainring, need the top end speed to ride with my Club.
BULLS E-Grinder was consider, but way more $$$$$$$$$$$$$ compared to a 2016 Cross SM, Haibike is blowing these things out right now. So, didn't cost that much to experiment, most of the components I had already, I think it turned out fairly well for what I paid....
RoadWrinkle
Active Member
Clean conversion, good choices. Does the cross come with a 350w/28 mph set-up? A number of dealers have good closeout prices on the sduro line.
pxpaulx
Well-Known Member
None of the sduro bikes have been a speed pedelec in the US yet...They probably have a few across the pond though.
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JRA
Well-Known Member
It looks like the 16' Cross SM has a 400wh battery and if you are getting 70 miles per charge that is 5.71 wh/mi. Factoring in that you want more speed, which above 20 mph adds significant wind resistance, and any hills/headwinds on your route and only sporting a 118" high gear if you go to the 48t you will probably want to stay deep in the pack.
In order to do a century with a 500wh battery you would need to average 5 wh/mi which is very low consumption. Anything below 10 wh/mi I feel makes having the extra weight of a e system aboard not worth it and you might as well just go without.
My road e bike is a 52v/1000w 600wh battery and averaging in the low/mid 20mph range I average around 15 wh/mi dependent on terrain and wind.
Personally I think that hub motors work better for road use than mid drive and having more watts on tap never hurts either. Instead of 28's pumped up to the max I prefer 40's with low of psi as I can get away with. Makes for a more supple ride and I don't really feel like it saps my mileage. But I do tend to transition between pavé, gravé and light trail work in the course of my rides.
In order to do a century with a 500wh battery you would need to average 5 wh/mi which is very low consumption. Anything below 10 wh/mi I feel makes having the extra weight of a e system aboard not worth it and you might as well just go without.
My road e bike is a 52v/1000w 600wh battery and averaging in the low/mid 20mph range I average around 15 wh/mi dependent on terrain and wind.
Personally I think that hub motors work better for road use than mid drive and having more watts on tap never hurts either. Instead of 28's pumped up to the max I prefer 40's with low of psi as I can get away with. Makes for a more supple ride and I don't really feel like it saps my mileage. But I do tend to transition between pavé, gravé and light trail work in the course of my rides.
James Kohls
Active Member
Goodair
Member
IRA, thats a nice looking bike, and thanks for your info, I like the science behind your answer. I picked the SDURO, for a few reasons, it was cheap to get into, I had the parts in my garage, but mainly I needed an extra battery and maybe a spare motor in the future, therefore, I explored this. The mid-drive system allows for me to use existing components to finish the build as simple as possible. I think the 500w (20% extra) might just get me there. I rode GMR, a famous roadie mountain course in SoCal, on a 20 mile ride, 10 miles uphill with an average of 10% grade, I finished the ride with 75% left. So, with a flatter Century ride, like the Amtrak Century, I think I can make it with a 500w pack. Will see in a few more months.
JRA
Well-Known Member
No doubt you can make it as you have done centuries in the past and at the end of the day your bike looks to be plenty pedal able and if push comes to shove you can ditch your battery if it runs out to lighten the load. But it is just a matter if you will get much benefit from the e system only being able to use it intermittently or at a consistent low level versus the extra weight.
The reason I went with e assist for my road adventures was because it enables me to go faster with the same amount of physical effort making it more enjoyable, at least for me. In order for me to do a century in varied terrain I would need around 1300wh of battery to average in the 20's I figure. I would have to carry a second battery and be conservative using assist level the whole distance.
Also I don't trust the % meters as they don't take in to account voltage sag which occurs at the end of the charge. Having a meter that reads out your current ah and tracks wh/mi is better if you really want to know your state of charge.
Your garage parts stash is pretty select btw, not everybody can pull a Dura Ace hydraulic brifter set and carbon fiber fork off the shelf. Good on ya.
JRA
Well-Known Member
Saw somewhere that it works with Yamaha motors to fix the magnet to the end of the crank arm and move the sensor to the outside of the chainstay. Not sure what it does to the readout but apparently adds speed.
Luv2ride
Active Member
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