New to this group and I need help. I have a Bam Nomad, similar to the Rad Power. I purchased the Rad 35 amp KT controller. All connections plug in same as Rad. But not working. Kt LCD3 turns on fine, headlight works and walk assist works. However, neither throttle nor peddle assist work. Anybody have any ideas.
Controller Upgrade
- Thread starter Grampy
- Start date
Actually meant Rad
Rover
ninetimes
New Member
You might try to use the Bolton settings to see if they work. Changes from your settings are in bold.
P1 = 100
P2 = 5
P3 = 1 - when this value is 0, throttle max power is determined by the PAS level. when it's 1, max throttle is allowed regardless of PAS level.
P4 = 0
P5 = 0 - This value is used to try and correct/smooth the battery % remaining. 0 just shows the real time voltage so it may drop when under load. You could leave this at 15.
C1 = 3
C2 =0
C3 =1 - this just determines the default assist level when you turn on the bike.
C4 = 0 - this allows max speed from the throttle even when you're not pedalling
C5 = 2 - this value limits the max current. Bolton recommends lowering it to about 30 amps because the motor cable connector can't handle 35 amps.
C6 =3
C7 = 1
C8 = 0
C9 = 0
C10 = N
C11 = 0
C12 = 4 - this determines the low voltage cutoff. 4 is the default value. lower values reduce the minimum voltage. higher values raise it.
C13 = 0
C14 = 1 - this is the strength of the pedal assist. It shouldn't affect the problem you're having. 1 is weak, 2 is medium and 3 is strong. I would leave yours at 2.
Let me know if that changes anything. The other possible issue is that the pinouts on the throttle and PAS on your bike are different from the Bolton controller. Higo connectors make changing the pinouts very difficult.
P1 = 100
P2 = 5
P3 = 1 - when this value is 0, throttle max power is determined by the PAS level. when it's 1, max throttle is allowed regardless of PAS level.
P4 = 0
P5 = 0 - This value is used to try and correct/smooth the battery % remaining. 0 just shows the real time voltage so it may drop when under load. You could leave this at 15.
C1 = 3
C2 =0
C3 =1 - this just determines the default assist level when you turn on the bike.
C4 = 0 - this allows max speed from the throttle even when you're not pedalling
C5 = 2 - this value limits the max current. Bolton recommends lowering it to about 30 amps because the motor cable connector can't handle 35 amps.
C6 =3
C7 = 1
C8 = 0
C9 = 0
C10 = N
C11 = 0
C12 = 4 - this determines the low voltage cutoff. 4 is the default value. lower values reduce the minimum voltage. higher values raise it.
C13 = 0
C14 = 1 - this is the strength of the pedal assist. It shouldn't affect the problem you're having. 1 is weak, 2 is medium and 3 is strong. I would leave yours at 2.
Let me know if that changes anything. The other possible issue is that the pinouts on the throttle and PAS on your bike are different from the Bolton controller. Higo connectors make changing the pinouts very difficult.
Thanks, I will try. Maybe C5 is the key at 10 maybe I am getting too much too much for motor to handle Don't know but I will try,
harryS
Well-Known Member
Walk assist means your motor/sensor are fine.
Perhaps BAM wired their throttle and PAS connectors different, even though the connectors are the same.
Start with the throttle. This is being optimistic, but throttles are three wire, and many use red and black for power with some third color for the throttle voltage. Do you have red/black matching on either side?
Perhaps BAM wired their throttle and PAS connectors different, even though the connectors are the same.
Start with the throttle. This is being optimistic, but throttles are three wire, and many use red and black for power with some third color for the throttle voltage. Do you have red/black matching on either side?
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
P3=1 is correct.
C1 is about the PAS sensor and it's location - left or right side. Switching from one side to the other changes the direction it turns, and the controller is only going to work one way. Point being, you might have to mess around here a bit. if it's on one side, try 0, 1, or 2. If no luck, try 5, 6, and 7 for the other side
Functional "walk assist" does not go through any sensors I know of.
C1 is about the PAS sensor and it's location - left or right side. Switching from one side to the other changes the direction it turns, and the controller is only going to work one way. Point being, you might have to mess around here a bit. if it's on one side, try 0, 1, or 2. If no luck, try 5, 6, and 7 for the other side
Functional "walk assist" does not go through any sensors I know of.
ninetimes
New Member
I agree this is likely the problem, but with this style of connector you can't really see the color of the wires. I think there's two options to troubleshoot that:
1. Cut the cable a couple of inches from the end and strip the insulation from the cable on each side until you can get the smaller wires inside. Mix and match those until it works and then solder/crimp them back together in the correct positions.
2. Buy extension cables (you can find them by googling "bafang extension cable") and do the same thing as above, but on the extension cable rather than the bike or controller cables. That way you only damage the easily replaced extension cable.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Cutting wires on the throttle is NOT going to fix the PAS functions.
Try looking for a tiny red LED on the PAS sensor itself when the power is turned on. If it is on, 2 of the 3 wires are correct, so it's fair to assume the 3rd is as well. That's no assurance the throttle is OK though....
Try looking for a tiny red LED on the PAS sensor itself when the power is turned on. If it is on, 2 of the 3 wires are correct, so it's fair to assume the 3rd is as well. That's no assurance the throttle is OK though....
ninetimes
New Member
When the display is on, do you see the little brake cutoff symbol? It's between the battery and the clock and looks kind like "IOI".
Edit: if you want to check the throttle output on the controller, you should be getting 5v on one of the pins. To check the throttle side, you need to supply 5v. The signal wire coming from the throttle should read 0.8-4.3v depending on how far it's turned.
ninetimes
New Member
No problem. I understand you disconnected the brake cutoff, but if you see that symbol on the display, it thinks the cutoff is engaged and that would disable throttle/PAS. Just something to double-check.
Will double check. Could be throttle and peddle assist is wired differently. I cannot think it could be anything else except brake cutoff. When my son gets here going to bite the bullet and cut throttle cable to test. If
that works then I will try peddle assist. If that does not work I have no idea.
that works then I will try peddle assist. If that does not work I have no idea.
harryS
Well-Known Member
If you have water proof or Higo connectors. then disregard my comment. I am thinking about JST connectors where the pins are pushed in by humans, and mistakes sometimes happen.
Walk mode working is always a big step, showing the the 8 wires in the motor connector are correct and the controller is alive. Shows if speedometer works too. Walk mode stops if brake switches are engaged, but restarts when they are let go, so you can see if the brakes switches are reacting properly.
I would reseat the throttle plug. Here is what the throttle connector on one of my ebikes looks like from the controller side. My power is around 4.5 volts. The voltage on the input (with nothing connected) depends on the controller. This may match your bike. It may not.
Walk mode working is always a big step, showing the the 8 wires in the motor connector are correct and the controller is alive. Shows if speedometer works too. Walk mode stops if brake switches are engaged, but restarts when they are let go, so you can see if the brakes switches are reacting properly.
I would reseat the throttle plug. Here is what the throttle connector on one of my ebikes looks like from the controller side. My power is around 4.5 volts. The voltage on the input (with nothing connected) depends on the controller. This may match your bike. It may not.
