Chain wear gauge?

dodgeman

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Macomb, Illinois
Something that is in the back of my mind is chain replacement. I’ve got about 1200 miles on my bike. I saw another post about a wear gauge for your chain. I don’t need detailed instructions but assume they are simple to use. What exactly is it that wears on the chain? Where the cassette teeth engage it or the pivot points on the chain?
 
Best to buy a decent one for manufacturing tolerances, and a good one like the park tool has 2 measurements. Once side tells you when you are .50% stretched, and the other .75%. If you go past .75%, you risk wearing your cassette and chainring much faster, which increases the maintenance cost significantly.


You can also use a set of Vernier calipers if you already own them, and it's even more precise. Not nearly as quick and convenient as the $15-20 chain checker though.

 
Both the pin and the roller bushing wear. That's why internal lubing is needed. You need to get the lube down inside the roller and not all over the chain. I've gotten as many as 3,000 miles with good maintenance and rides with minimal grade changes.
 
I got the gauge yesterday, no instructions but I found a online video on how to use it. It’s a Bike Hand gauge and is a go-no go gauge. One side is 0.75% wear, the other side 1%. My bike has a little over 1200 miles on it but the chain is still good. The wife’s has 700 miles and it’s still good also.
 
I got the gauge yesterday, no instructions but I found a online video on how to use it. It’s a Bike Hand gauge and is a go-no go gauge. One side is 0.75% wear, the other side 1%. My bike has a little over 1200 miles on it but the chain is still good. The wife’s has 700 miles and it’s still good also.
Just be aware that the interval is based on your specific drivetrain. 1% might be too much for multi-speed drivetrains. From the Park Tool Page:


"Now let’s talk about what each reading on the CC-3.2 means. Anything at or beyond the 0.75 percent reading means that you should change your chain immediately. If you are using a chain designed for ten or fewer gears, replace your chain as it nears the 0.75 percent mark. If you are using an eleven or twelve speed chain, replace your chain once it has reached 0.5 percent wear. For two-sprocket or single speed bikes, replace your chain as it reaches the 1 percent wear mark."
 
I've got both the park tool chain gauges. Between the two mine show different wear. The go/no go gauge showed barely at the .5 mark, the swivel pin style showed the chain at .75 which is too much for an 11 speed.
 
I have yet to see a single speed or IGH chain checker. The wide chains last.
 
I remember “back in the day” when I was growing up, 60’s and 70’s they made three speed bikes that shifted inside the rear hub.
 
This thread prompted me to finally unpack my Park Tool chain gauge and check the two bikes we bought last year - Trek Allant 8s. We live in a hilly area, typical ride is 1000-2000 feet of climbing, so we have plenty of time to stress the chain. And spouse loves to push herself in harder gears on top of that going up the hills. The results, after one year of riding covering 1000 miles or so, and no cleaning or lubing? About .25 for each of us!
Time to order new chains while they're in stock...
 
“back in the day”
My daily go to bike is like that, 3-sp with a coaster brake. I so love to blow past the guys in spany-X on a bike that does not look electric. This is my daily rider's new brother. Also a 3-speed with a coaster brake. 85Nm on the mid-drive. Yup, that is what electric bikes look like.
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I'm gonna order this tool now. Thanks man!!! Can't go wrong it's under $20.
A couple months ago I changed my chain without checking for stretch. I change it at 6 month interval. They probably didn't even need to be changed.
I asked the guy that owns the shop where I bought my bike if mine needs changed and he asked how many miles I had ridden it. When my answer was 1000 miles he said the chain should last a lot longer than that. However, I chewed the chrome off of one of the sprockets on the cassette (exposing the copper underneath). Not sure why or how that happened. Ordered a new cassette.
 
The copper is just a thin layer, like the chrome on top of it, that makes the chrome stick. Yes, seeing it shows some wear, but a microscopic amount. It's normal. If things are working normally, no need to change the cassette yet.
 
I asked the guy that owns the shop where I bought my bike if mine needs changed and he asked how many miles I had ridden it. When my answer was 1000 miles he said the chain should last a lot longer than that. However, I chewed the chrome off of one of the sprockets on the cassette (exposing the copper underneath). Not sure why or how that happened. Ordered a new cassette.
If replacing your cassette then you should be doing complete drivetrain. Cassette, chain, chainring and derailleur idlers. Have all parts on hand then run existing drivetrain into ground, ie until starts giving you grief. Maybe surprised how many more miles you get out of it.

In case of older Bosch gen 2 with small chainring, replace with every chain.

I get 3000-3500km from basic shimano 11spd chain to 0.75 mark commuting and touring. Heard similar figures from others on forum. The first 3 or 4 smaller sprockets on Shimano XT & SLX 11 & 12spd cassettes can be changed individual, worth do the 2 you spend most time in when doing chain.
 
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