I also used the Dekas, but the 48tooth, easy swap out, no special tools. I did need LBS to change the torque settings in the software to change chainring sizes. Also replaced rear cassette but stuck with the original Shimano configuration.
No, no issue w/o chain guard. Super happy with this setup.
Sounds like RTeremi is using the 48t chainring?
Perhaps @Stefan Mikes can comment, but I recall that I estimated the frame to chain ring clearance for the 52t ring on my Vado. It was so close that I called it as 'does not fit'. It's raining now, or I'd check it again. I laid a thin metal ruler behind the chain ring on my Vado at the center line of the crank. The 52t ring was right on the edge of the frame, though this could could vary by frame and model year so YRMV.
Hello @ci2i68 , you are doing the change for exactly the same reasons as me - flat (ish) terrain, and a wish to move up the cassette. I cannot be all that much help, as I took my lead from @TS25 when it came to planning what to do - he has done this kind of thing more than once. Now that I see what @RTeremi has done with his, I really wonder why I was so caught up in sourcing the bash guard, but it is done now
. I am still very happy with the outcome.
Same with my Shimano E8000
my new 38T on my Vado SL (swapping out the Praxis 44T) has been an astonishing revelation on the steep gradients here. Not only can I climb the 20% steep parts (still in granny gear obviously), but now can do them in Sport set at 70% rather then Turbo and most interestingly the motor seems far happier, really seems far more powerful. It's changed how I ride.I rode over the very same route with both Trance E+ and Vado 5 yesterday (the first Giant ride was to get shipment from a parcel locker, and the Specialized one was to retrieve an item that fell out off my pocket on the first ride)
Trance E+ has a 36T chainring and proper gearing. It was very easy to ride up the incline -- that's an e-MTB. To my surprise, I had trouble to do the same with the 48T chainring Vado in the granny gear! Vado stopped before it could reach the top
Of course nothing serious or critical but it was a good depiction why the chainring size might matter.
@RTeremi how did you hold the sleeve nuts in position when you did this work? A very clean bike
Thanks for that - I wondered if you had some magic tool to do the job
.This here?
www.parktool.com
Is it helpful?This here?
CNW-2 Chainring Nut Wrench
Securely holds slotted chainring nuts in place to prevent slipping when tightening or loosening the bolt. Double-ended to fit most slotted-type nuts.
I think that Specialised, if they had their time again, might make it easier to do these chainring changes. What is coming out of this thread is that individuals need to be able to choose the chainring of their bikes to suit their particular circumstances, and personal preference (eg) hilly or flat, US speeds or EU speeds, preferred cadence etc - it is all coming from the removal of the front derailleur, and the 2/3 chainring setup. The good news is that we have a community here which is able to help people solve the problemThis here?
CNW-2 Chainring Nut Wrench
Securely holds slotted chainring nuts in place to prevent slipping when tightening or loosening the bolt. Double-ended to fit most slotted-type nuts.
.I went with the 48T simply because the 52T seems like once you install the chain . Is going to be really close to the chain Stay . Keep in Mind that Specialized designed the Bike around the 48T Ring . IMO if you start going to far past what designers felt was optimal. You'll screw up the allowable tolerances they built the bike on.
Don't take this wrong But what are you talking about ? Change Torque Settings ? What Torque settings ? There are none on The Vado's motor. There's no torque sensor . I went with the Praxis Chainring so I could install the guard. I never went to the Dealer . In Fact I know the Mechanic personally at My LBS . He told me No to what you are saying your LBS did . I haven't had any issues after 320 miles since the change . PLEASE CLARIFY THIS:
After I made the change from 40 to 48tooth my LBS said they should change the torque settings in the software. As I can’t confirm what, if anything, they changed, perhaps the definition they gave is incorrect. I suppose I could call them and ask for clarity of the change: they didn’t charge me for the update: so it wasn’t winter air in the tires.
I'm only questioning it because it doesn't make any sense . Maybe they were thinking Bosch with Torque sensors . But even that shouldn't need adjustments . Not questioning you . But I can only assume the LBS made an error . And since they weren't charging you didn't bother to add flame to a fire that shouldn't have been lit in the first place. I would like to know though . Because it makes me question if I made a mistake : Thanks
