Please check before you shorten your chain by six links which might be too much.Er, yes
P.S. I have ordered Shimano pins so I will be able to shorten the chain myself.
I just stumbled over this:
Chain ring tooth selection
- Thread starter bellandbottle
- Start date
I just stumbled over this:
Stefan Mikes
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- Mazovia, Poland
No wonder. There aren't any 12-speed pins in the market you could buy.
Sierratim
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- Nevada City, CA & Paradise Valley, AZ
Stefan, how about a 12 speed master link instead of a pin? Looks like they're available in Shimano and KMC versions.
Speedmerchant
Member
i ride a Como and went with a 52t chain ring, the absolute largest that will fit. There are no hills where I live so there is no need for hill climbing gears And I can now cruise effortlessly in the low twenties. Best change I made.
Stefan Mikes
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- Mazovia, Poland
Of course, as the pins are not made for aftermarket, it has to be the Quick-Link and the TL-CN10 tool at best...
I know:
Como Slipping fix?
My Como has developed the clunking, skipping problem like the chain or motor is slipping a tooth when pedaling in high gear with a load. I know this is a problem with some Specialized bikes and I’ve read every thread I could find on the problem/fix but no definitive answer on exactly what the...
electricbikereview.com
Stefan Mikes
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I rode over the very same route with both Trance E+ and Vado 5 yesterday (the first Giant ride was to get shipment from a parcel locker, and the Specialized one was to retrieve an item that fell out off my pocket on the first ride)
There is a highway cutting through the lowland around. To get across the highway (when you approach it by a dirt path), you need to ride up a very short but quite steep climb -- and then you need to stop at the top to let cars pass by.Trance E+ has a 36T chainring and proper gearing. It was very easy to ride up the incline -- that's an e-MTB. To my surprise, I had trouble to do the same with the 48T chainring Vado in the granny gear! Vado stopped before it could reach the top
Of course nothing serious or critical but it was a good depiction why the chainring size might matter.
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BarryS
Guest
There sure is alot of Miss-information with chains from KMC : It looks like 3 different model numbers are all the same chain : KMC appears to offer 2 chains one with some coating They both say E-bike rated . They are the same price for 136 lengths Anyone have experience ?
PaD
Well-Known Member
That must be a steep incline. Was it the highway embankment?Trance E+ has a 36T chainring and proper gearing. It was very easy to ride up the incline -- that's an e-MTB. To my surprise, I had trouble to do the same with the 48T chainring Vado in the granny gear! Vado stopped before it could reach the top
Of course nothing serious or critical but it was a good depiction why the chainring size might matter.
Your largest rear sprocket is 46 I believe. Mine is 42 but my chainring is 40 so maybe you would have made it on my Vado.
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Stefan Mikes
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- Mazovia, Poland
Yes, it was PaD. Such a small, tricky place
Normally I ride onto the highway (not across it) via a side road, no issue there.Once, a local car mechanic who drove an off-road car took me on a ride via the side paved road (marked green). While approaching the highway, he assessed the highway traffic (none), pressed on the accelerator and virtually jumped over the highway onto the dirt path! I was shocked. He smiled and said: "According to the map, there is a street here. Anything wrong?"
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PaD
Well-Known Member
Your largest rear sprocket is 46 I believe. Mine is 42 but my chainring is 40 so maybe you would have made it on my Vado.Yes, it was PaD. Such a small, tricky place
Stefan Mikes
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- Mazovia, Poland
FlatSix911
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- Silicon Valley
I recently upgraded by Bianchi Manhattan by changing the chainring from 38T to 44T for an increased top speed gear ratio.
A special Shimano tool is required to remove the chainring from the crankset...
A special Shimano tool is required to remove the chainring from the crankset...
Stefan Mikes
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- Mazovia, Poland
A special tool is required to remove chainring in Giant/Yamaha e-bikes, too.A special Shimano tool is required to remove the chainring from the crankset...
So, removing the chainring in Vado/Como is that simple, compared?
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BarryS
Guest
I’ll get to a point where I can post all the photos in order: but for now, here is the chainring and guard removed. This is the original, where the guard is bolted to the inside of the chainring. The praxis chainring is threaded, so the four bolts are through the crank and into the chainring...it’s super easy to remove, the resistance is from the blue locking patch (which are on the bolts, but not clear in this photo)
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BarryS
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FlatSix911
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Yes, I have both the Yamaha and Shimano systems.
The Yamaha is much easier to remove the chainring with 4 small hex bolts... no special tool required.
The Shimano system requires the splined tool to remove the chainring... with a bit of extra effort.
Stefan Mikes
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I see. To remove just the chainring (but not it's mounting ring) on a Yamaha system is simple.
I'm new here and noticed this thread hasn't had any activity for a while but wanted to start here. I have a 2020 Turbo 4. After reading this thread and doing a fair amount of research, I plan to:
1. Put a 52t chainring on front, chose the Deckas. Anyone see a problem?
2. Put on a KMC X10e 136 link chain which seems to be the consensus. I know how to size it.
3. Use Truvativ steel chainring bolts. Anyone see a problem?
4. Put on a 11-34 cassette when they are back in stock.
Why this set? I only use my Vado for commuting and errands. I'm always on city streets and live in the Phoenix valley - no hills at all. During my commute, I'm always between 24-28 miles per hours. This set should (per bikecalc.com) give me the best cadence (I ride at 90-100 rpms) and keep me on the 15 and 17t cogs. If I went to the 48t chainring, I can only optimize my speed and cadence with a 12-28 cassette which keeps me in the 14 and 15t cogs. I think I will get better longevity if on bigger cogs. Anyone have feedback?
Final question, probably for "bellandbottle," will I be able to change the chainring without the specialty tools and taking off the crankarm? I have the chainring bolt tool and it fits behind the chainring from a bottom front approach. I don't see anything that would require me to take the crankarm off.
You guys put some awesome info on here and thanks for that.
1. Put a 52t chainring on front, chose the Deckas. Anyone see a problem?
2. Put on a KMC X10e 136 link chain which seems to be the consensus. I know how to size it.
3. Use Truvativ steel chainring bolts. Anyone see a problem?
4. Put on a 11-34 cassette when they are back in stock.
Why this set? I only use my Vado for commuting and errands. I'm always on city streets and live in the Phoenix valley - no hills at all. During my commute, I'm always between 24-28 miles per hours. This set should (per bikecalc.com) give me the best cadence (I ride at 90-100 rpms) and keep me on the 15 and 17t cogs. If I went to the 48t chainring, I can only optimize my speed and cadence with a 12-28 cassette which keeps me in the 14 and 15t cogs. I think I will get better longevity if on bigger cogs. Anyone have feedback?
Final question, probably for "bellandbottle," will I be able to change the chainring without the specialty tools and taking off the crankarm? I have the chainring bolt tool and it fits behind the chainring from a bottom front approach. I don't see anything that would require me to take the crankarm off.
You guys put some awesome info on here and thanks for that.
