Chain ring tooth selection

[Stefan Mikes]

To be honest, other big brands have similar policy regarding e-bike model configuration. For example, If I wanted to have a 625 Wh battery in Giant Trance E+, I would have to spend two-and-half thousand bucks more to just get the larger battery, with SRAM group, 220/200 mm SRAM brakes and carbon crank as a bonus. I e-mailed the otherwise good LBS asking for the cost of the 625 Wh battery with a "rockguard" and the LBS has never replied to that specific request!

My new friend Archie has bought his wife the last Giant Explore E+ 0 Pro size S left for sale in Germany. He was ready to pay several hundred euro more for the 625 Wh model but none was available.

The major difference between Giant and Specialized is Giant at least try using standard bike parts, so it is easier to find spares aftermarket. Not that everything is so easy with Giant either. To be fashionable, Giant have used the 35 mm clamp-size handlebars in the Trance E+. While you can buy a variety of stems of 31.8 mm size, it is hard (but doable) to find a 35 mm stem.

OK, enough of bitching from my side! To give Specialized a credit, here are the great points of Vado and Como:

• Silent, powerful motors
• Beauty and elegance
• Excellent geometry
• Fully integrated design
• The best display and smartphone app in the market

As long as your Turbo bike works and there is a reliable LBS behind your back, we all love and enjoy our Turbo bikes!

 

[bellandbottle]

• Silent, powerful motors
• Beauty and elegance
• Excellent geometry
• Fully integrated design
• The best display and smartphone app in the market

As long as your Turbo bike works and there is a reliable LBS behind your back, we all love and enjoy our Turbo bikes!

As you say Stefan, it is all about keeping things in perspective.

After a few component changes, I am very pleased with my Vado 4 - and it has made a difference to my life .

And I will be really, really looking after it now.

 

[Art Deco]

To be honest, other big brands have similar policy regarding e-bike model configuration. For example, If I wanted to have a 625 Wh battery in Giant Trance E+, I would have to spend two-and-half thousand bucks more to just get the larger battery, with SRAM group, 220/200 mm SRAM brakes and carbon crank as a bonus. I e-mailed the otherwise good LBS asking for the cost of the 625 Wh battery with a "rockguard" and the LBS has never replied to that specific request!

My new friend Archie has bought his wife the last Giant Explore E+ 0 Pro size S left for sale in Germany. He was ready to pay several hundred euro more for the 625 Wh model but none was available.

The major difference between Giant and Specialized is Giant at least try using standard bike parts, so it is easier to find spares aftermarket. Not that everything is so easy with Giant either. To be fashionable, Giant have used the 35 mm clamp-size handlebars in the Trance E+. While you can buy a variety of stems of 31.8 mm size, it is hard (but doable) to find a 35 mm stem.

OK, enough of bitching from my side! To give Specialized a credit, here are the great points of Vado and Como:

• Silent, powerful motors
• Beauty and elegance
• Excellent geometry
• Fully integrated design
• The best display and smartphone app in the market

As long as your Turbo bike works and there is a reliable LBS behind your back, we all love and enjoy our Turbo bikes!

There are things that are hard to measure, but are important when you are actually riding as well. The geometry matters a lot. I found both the giant E1 or 2 (?) and the Comos comfortable and predictable, but when I returned the Trek verve 2s I rented for a weekend, I told the dealer that they were probably great bikes for someone else, but not for us. They just seemed too twitchy (?) to me, especially when braking hard. But the dealer seemed really good, and I bought a couple of very nice helmets from them b/c I felt some guilt about not buying the bikes. YMMV.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Vado is a marvel when it works I still call it a "Ferrari".

 

[Oberst]

The Shimano HG601-11 chain with 126 links is new on the market. You could take the HG601-11 with 138 links instead, look how many links are spare when mounting it to the bike, take the spare ones off and add as many to your "old" chain as and when needed. So you have a spare chain waiting "in flexible length", or you could add four extra links to your new chain in case you want to switch from 44T to a 48T chain ring later on.

Alternatively you could look for a Shimano HG701-11 chain which comes in 116, 126 and 138 link length as well. Slightly better quality at slightly higher costs.

The price gap between the 126 and the 138 length is so small that I would buy the 138 and have some spare links at hand.

I even have a few spare chain links and chain tool in my "emergency case" when riding the bike but some say that's overkill. But some routes I'm taking are miles off any place to be reached by car so it gives me more confidence to have it at hand. Better than carrying the bike for miles.

The one is none, two is one approach can be very useful at times. Chain links are small items to carry but a really big item when needed and you don’t have them!

 

[RTeremi]

I just purchased a 48tooth chainring, new cassette and longer chain. I’ll make the upgrade this weekend when the chain gets here. This is at just over 1000miles this year: I’ve been riding my Vado around town like I stole it, which has resulted in quite a bit of tooth wear: hence the upgrade and replacement parts. I haven’t sourced a 48tooth guard yet, but that can follow.

 

[BarryS]

Is this correct ? I went to My LBS . They took a Few Days and Emailed me this Info Yesterday Email says Barry this is what we have access to .
Specialized Praxis 2017 Vado 48T, Chainring,104,Wave S171400002
I responded ,What would be the difference in a Chainring Stamped 2017 ? The reply I got back is nothing . Specialized hasn't changed this part that we are aware of : It should fit your 2020 Vado 4 using your guard . The Price they quoted me was $72.00 for the part :

I do notice the part # S171400002 matches this https://www.bike24.com/p2238251.html Not available to ship to United States

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I'm riding that 2017 48T chainring and it is very good. Praxis is a good brand.

 

[BarryS]

I'm riding that 2017 48T chainring and it is very good. Praxis is a good brand.

I'm only wanting to make sure this fits and works My current Guard > The Dealer says he'll get me the part but I have to install it Myself unless I want to wait until Next April : They are backed up doing service work > I notice Specialized sells some Praxis Rings on their site : The LBS says this comes from Their parts supplier in The Specialized Dealer Network :

My Cranks Say Praxis on Them. So does My Guard Trim

 

[TS25]

I'm only wanting to make sure this fits and works My current Guard > The Dealer says he'll get me the part but I have to install it Myself

As I understand it your actual chainring has 40T and you're intending to use a 48T chainring.
Of course you do need a bigger chainguard for 48T. Let your LBS order it together with the 48T chainring.

 

[BarryS]

As I understand it your actual chainring has 40T and you're intending to use a 48T chainring.
Of course you do need a bigger chainguard for 48T. Let your LBS order it together with the 48T chainring.

The guard (plastic) is $10 $9.99 to be exact The Chain Ring is $71 delivered So $81.70 shipped for both : Made by Praxis

 

[BarryS]

As I understand it your actual chainring has 40T and you're intending to use a 48T chainring.
Of course you do need a bigger chainguard for 48T. Let your LBS order it together with the 48T chainring.

Is this the correct Guard ?? Kinda hard to tell for Sure : Also what is the correct information To remove just teh Ring and Guard ? Other then 5 MM Socket : DO I need other tools ? Sorta hard to tell with teh Different opinions and Thread Hijacks : And the General Opinion based on Just that Opinion

 

[RTeremi]

I’ll get to a point where I can post all the photos in order: but for now, here is the chainring and guard removed. This is the original, where the guard is bolted to the inside of the chainring. The praxis chainring is threaded, so the four bolts are through the crank and into the chainring...it’s super easy to remove, the resistance is from the blue locking patch (which are on the bolts, but not clear in this photo)

 

[BarryS]

I’ll get to a point where I can post all the photos in order: but for now, here is the chainring and guard removed. This is the original, where the guard is bolted to the inside of the chainring. The praxis chainring is threaded, so the four bolts are through the crank and into the chainring...it’s super easy to remove, the resistance is from the blue locking patch (which are on the bolts, but not clear in this photo)

Great News HAVE YOU TESTED IT OUT?
Curious as hell to find out your opinions : So what is the chain needed for this : Did you add links or just get a Whole New chain :

I already have the Ring and guard coming : So debating whether to just get a New chain for 11 speeds and remove a link or 2 > Are there different or better chains then Shimano Ultegra that's on The Vado 4 and Vado 5 ?

I Appreciate your Time : Nice to know I don't need all the extra tools suggested by Others : There's so many comments in these Chainring Threads : I've lost where or even you even If you mentioned what you did for a Chain. Or if that was someone else : Your situation is identical to Mine being we have the same Bike : Nice to get the info Straight from The Horses Mouth . So to Speak Thanks AGAIN know you mentioned

 

[RTeremi]

I replaced the chainring, the chain (see attached), and the cassette. I bought Park tools rivet driving tool CT3.3 and the KMC 136 link chain. I need to count how many links I ended up with as my first go was a bit long.

I should mention I replaced all these parts without regard to cost, as somebody mentioned I could have simply replaced only the worn cogs and saved a few bucks. The old chain had really no stretch to it after 1000miles, so I could have kept that in service. But moving up in chainring size, I felt better about having replaced all the above.

it’s been pouring rain and cold here, so I’ve not had a good chance for proper testing. I’ll have more in a few days.

 

[Sierratim]

I replaced the chainring, the chain (see attached), and the cassette. I bought Park tools rivet driving tool CT3.3 and the KMC 136 link chain. I need to count how many links I ended up with as my first go was a bit long.

I should mention I replaced all these parts without regard to cost, as somebody mentioned I could have simply replaced only the worn cogs and saved a few bucks. The old chain had really no stretch to it after 1000miles, so I could have kept that in service. But moving up in chainring size, I felt better about having replaced all the above.

it’s been pouring rain and cold here, so I’ve not had a good chance for proper testing. I’ll have more in a few days.

I've had a similar issue with chain length when I've done gearing changes over the years, how to know what length is right for the new setup before I order the parts? I finally did the obvious and Goolgled the topic and found some helpful resources.

Park Tool has a good article on CHAIN LENGTH. I like their simplified formula;

"Simple Equation: L = 2 (C) + (F/4 + R/4 + 1)

L = Chain length in inches. Round the final result to closest whole inch figure. C = Chain stay length in inches, measure to closest 1/8″. F= Number of teeth on largest front chainring. R= Number of teeth on largest rear cog."

I based my most recent cassette and chain order on this CALCULATOR. This THREAD discusses this at some length.

BTW - I ride a mid-drive ebike so the chain will get more wear than a hub motor drive. Others with similar motors have reported having to replace more expensive drive components when they waited until 2,000 miles for their chain replacement. I'm replacing mine every 1,000 miles with no other component issues so far.

 

[BarryS]

I replaced the chainring, the chain (see attached), and the cassette. I bought Park tools rivet driving tool CT3.3 and the KMC 136 link chain. I need to count how many links I ended up with as my first go was a bit long.

I should mention I replaced all these parts without regard to cost, as somebody mentioned I could have simply replaced only the worn cogs and saved a few bucks. The old chain had really no stretch to it after 1000miles, so I could have kept that in service. But moving up in chainring size, I felt better about having replaced all the above.

it’s been pouring rain and cold here, so I’ve not had a good chance for proper testing. I’ll have more in a few days.

Again Thanks Much : I have less then 200 miles but figure for the few dollars more Buy a New chain.

I've had a similar issue with chain length when I've done gearing changes over the years, how to know what length is right for the new setup before I order the parts? I finally did the obvious and Goolgled the topic and found some helpful resources.

Park Tool has a good article on CHAIN LENGTH. I like their simplified formula;

"Simple Equation: L = 2 (C) + (F/4 + R/4 + 1)

L = Chain length in inches. Round the final result to closest whole inch figure. C = Chain stay length in inches, measure to closest 1/8″. F= Number of teeth on largest front chainring. R= Number of teeth on largest rear cog."

I based my most recent cassette and chain order on this CALCULATOR. This THREAD discusses this at some length.

BTW - I ride a mid-drive ebike so the chain will get more wear than a hub motor drive. Others with similar motors have reported having to replace more expensive drive components when they waited until 2,000 miles for their chain replacement. I'm replacing mine every 1,000 miles with no other component issues so far.

So are chains all equal? Like what is on the Bikes from The Factory The Spec page says Shimano Ultergra : But are there different types of those or just links numbers : Or is there a nicer chain ? IYO are quick links ok to use : ? I've worked on Bikes for decades : So I assume the components here are no different then a Regular Bike ??? I haven't been involved in the bike Industry for 10 years so you forget some stuff and you lose touch with the latest and Greats component parts : Appreciate your Advice

 

[BarryS]

I replaced the chainring, the chain (see attached), and the cassette. I bought Park tools rivet driving tool CT3.3 and the KMC 136 link chain. I need to count how many links I ended up with as my first go was a bit long.

I should mention I replaced all these parts without regard to cost, as somebody mentioned I could have simply replaced only the worn cogs and saved a few bucks. The old chain had really no stretch to it after 1000miles, so I could have kept that in service. But moving up in chainring size, I felt better about having replaced all the above.

it’s been pouring rain and cold here, so I’ve not had a good chance for proper testing. I’ll have more in a few days.

Again Much appreciated thanks

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I've had a similar issue with chain length when I've done gearing changes over the years, how to know what length is right for the new setup before I order the parts? I finally did the obvious and Goolgled the topic and found some helpful resources.

Park Tool has a good article on CHAIN LENGTH. I like their simplified formula;

"Simple Equation: L = 2 (C) + (F/4 + R/4 + 1)

L = Chain length in inches. Round the final result to closest whole inch figure. C = Chain stay length in inches, measure to closest 1/8″. F= Number of teeth on largest front chainring. R= Number of teeth on largest rear cog."

I based my most recent cassette and chain order on this CALCULATOR. This THREAD discusses this at some length.

BTW - I ride a mid-drive ebike so the chain will get more wear than a hub motor drive. Others with similar motors have reported having to replace more expensive drive components when they waited until 2,000 miles for their chain replacement. I'm replacing mine every 1,000 miles with no other component issues so far.

Tim, we seem to have discussed that already. My 48t chainring and 11-46t cassette require 132 chain links because the long cage derailleur requires it. Just tell Barry that your Vado 5.0 has the 48th chainring with such and such cassette and such and such derailleur, and that you use this [enter] number of chain links Let us not use the formulas.

My Vado:
C = 18.8 in
F = 48
R =46
L = 2* 18.8 + (48/4 + 46/4 + 1) = 62.1. The link length is 0.5" so 62 / 0.5 = 124 links per formula but my chain is 132 links. The formula is just useless.

 

[BarryS]

Tim, we seem to have discussed that already. My 48t chainring and 11-46t cassette require 132 chain links because the long cage derailleur requires it. Just tell Barry that your Vado 5.0 has the 48th chainring with such and such cassette and such and such derailleur, and that you use this [enter] number of chain links Let us not use the formulas.

You like being everyone's Grandpa don't you ??? You remind me of one of My best Buddies