smorgasbord
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Also check out this thread:
Which includes a link to this article:
And on wax:
And in particular, discusses a test that is heavily cited, including here on EBR:
And a link to this comparison
Interestingly, if you ride on pavement with little dirt/dust but do have rain, chainsaw oil ranks pretty highly.
The Ultimate Mid-Drive Chain Care Thread
We've got some scattered threads on chain cleaning, lubing, and measuring, but my hope here is to unite the best thinking and experiences from our community into one thread. If you've got some good tips or techniques to share, go right ahead. Cleaning: I did the first deep clean of my newish...
forums.electricbikereview.com
Which includes a link to this article:
Bicycle chain lubricants – explained
Which has these comments on dry lubes:Main advantage of dry lubes is that they attract less dirt – they aren’t as sticky as wet lubes. That is why they are good for dry weather use, especially if there’s lots of sand, or dust. They are also good for riding in the mud – less mud sticks to the chain, so it works better.
Main disadvantage of dry lubes is they are rather easily washed off with water. So they are not good for rainy riding conditions. Even in dry they generally need to be applied more often than most “wet” (oil based) lubes, not lasting as long. Chain needs to be clean of any dirt or other lubricants, before applying them, so they can stick to it well and prevent dirt from sticking to it. When applied, 2 to 4 hours is needed for the solvent to dry, leaving just layer of dry lubricant. If a bicycle is ridden just after applying dry lube, the lube will fall off the chain more quickly and attract more dirt – beating the purpose of using a dry lubricant in the first place. This can be impractical if a chain needs re-lubing, but one needs to go riding immediately.
Another disadvantage of dry lubricants is they can’t replentish the lubed area after they are pushed aside – they don’t flow back like wet lubes.
And on wax:
Lubricants based on paraffin wax are good for dry riding conditions and for riding in sand and dust. Paraffin wax flakes off the chain along with grains of sand and dirt that might have gotten stuck to it.
Shortcoming of paraffin wax is that it isn’t mobile enough to replentish lubed surfaces after being displaced, while not being strong enough to resist being displaced after put under pedalling pressure. This is apparent after some water gets on a paraffin wax lubed chain – it quickly starts squeaking.
That is why paraffin wax lubed chains need to be re-lubed often. Also, chain needs to be completely clean and dry before lubing, so that paraffin wax can stick to it and prevent dirt from sticking to it.
And in particular, discusses a test that is heavily cited, including here on EBR:
Note: this test concludes paraffin wax is the best bicycle chain lubricant, for all the riding (weather) conditions and by all the criteria. Important flaw of this test (by the opinion of the author which coincides with many users’ experience) is that it disregards strong pedalling in short bursts (when riding out of the saddle up hill for example), which can (and does) displace lubricant out of the contact points that need lubrication. The test also disregards cross chaining that regularly occurs with multi-chainring (“multi-speed”) bicycles and switching from one chainring to another – which all “help” lubricant displacement. Like it was explained in this paragraph, paraffin wax doesn’t flow back once it is displaced.
And a link to this comparison
Interestingly, if you ride on pavement with little dirt/dust but do have rain, chainsaw oil ranks pretty highly.