Chain Lubing?

Also check out this thread:

Which includes a link to this article:

Bicycle chain lubricants – explained

Which has these comments on dry lubes:
Main advantage of dry lubes is that they attract less dirt – they aren’t as sticky as wet lubes. That is why they are good for dry weather use, especially if there’s lots of sand, or dust. They are also good for riding in the mud – less mud sticks to the chain, so it works better.
Main disadvantage of dry lubes is they are rather easily washed off with water. So they are not good for rainy riding conditions. Even in dry they generally need to be applied more often than most “wet” (oil based) lubes, not lasting as long. Chain needs to be clean of any dirt or other lubricants, before applying them, so they can stick to it well and prevent dirt from sticking to it. When applied, 2 to 4 hours is needed for the solvent to dry, leaving just layer of dry lubricant. If a bicycle is ridden just after applying dry lube, the lube will fall off the chain more quickly and attract more dirt – beating the purpose of using a dry lubricant in the first place. This can be impractical if a chain needs re-lubing, but one needs to go riding immediately.
Another disadvantage of dry lubricants is they can’t replentish the lubed area after they are pushed aside – they don’t flow back like wet lubes.

And on wax:
Lubricants based on paraffin wax are good for dry riding conditions and for riding in sand and dust. Paraffin wax flakes off the chain along with grains of sand and dirt that might have gotten stuck to it.
Shortcoming of paraffin wax is that it isn’t mobile enough to replentish lubed surfaces after being displaced, while not being strong enough to resist being displaced after put under pedalling pressure. This is apparent after some water gets on a paraffin wax lubed chain – it quickly starts squeaking.
That is why paraffin wax lubed chains need to be re-lubed often. Also, chain needs to be completely clean and dry before lubing, so that paraffin wax can stick to it and prevent dirt from sticking to it.

And in particular, discusses a test that is heavily cited, including here on EBR:
Note: this test concludes paraffin wax is the best bicycle chain lubricant, for all the riding (weather) conditions and by all the criteria. Important flaw of this test (by the opinion of the author which coincides with many users’ experience) is that it disregards strong pedalling in short bursts (when riding out of the saddle up hill for example), which can (and does) displace lubricant out of the contact points that need lubrication. The test also disregards cross chaining that regularly occurs with multi-chainring (“multi-speed”) bicycles and switching from one chainring to another – which all “help” lubricant displacement. Like it was explained in this paragraph, paraffin wax doesn’t flow back once it is displaced.

And a link to this comparison
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Interestingly, if you ride on pavement with little dirt/dust but do have rain, chainsaw oil ranks pretty highly.
 
How often lube is applied depends on lube and weather. There are two types of lube wet (oil) and dry (wax). The dry goes on as running liquid which evaporates leaving wax coating. For dry dusting conditions dry lube is brilliant, chain only needs wipe down very lube to stay clean. Do need to apply every 50- 100miles. Rain will wash it off so needs to be applied after wet ride, dry chain chain with cloth best you can before applying. Leave bike overnite without drying and lubing it will start rusting.

For wet weather riding wet lube is better option still gets washed off slightly by rain but only need to lube every week or two depend how many wet rides you do. Down side is dirt binds with it to make a paste, wipe with cloth before or after every lube to clean it best you can. Very month or two really need to give drive train good clean. Remove chain and degrease, remove rear wheel and degrease cassette. Clean derailleur jockey wheels and chainring.

I wouldn't recommend applying degreasers to chain while on bike as it can drip down into motors seals and bearings.

Youtube as lots off videos on cleaning and lubing chains.

Edit. Could've save myself a post if I'd waited few more minutes. We were writing them at same time.
 
I'm NOT fanatical about cleaning / lubing , in fact this morning I lubed my wifes chain and realized it'd been a year since last lube! The emtb gets a superficial clean and lube before any multiday trips, plus about once a month. Kids bikes - even less.
That's about my approach too. Never had dramas with it, and never felt I got less life out of the chains. Wipe and relube every few weeks, replace chain before it gets to 0.5 stretch.

My pre-ebike ride was a 26 year old Apollo Alpine which I flogged riding to school in all weather and knocking about bush tracks then neglected in a dusty garages for months on end. I think I lubed that chain about a half dozen times over its life, and retired it with the original chain and cassette. A few of the outer cogs were clicky but it otherwise shifted and ran like a charm 😄

There was a comment on the MTB maintenance Facebook group from a user who jokingly said he fastidiously removed and ultrasonically cleaned his chain every 25 miles. It's possible to get very OCD about chain maintenance, but I think that says more about the individual than a sound drivetrain maintenance regime.
 
My chain gets lubed based on where I bike. If I'm on the crushed limestone towpath I'll try and remember to lube every single time I ride. Otherwise it may be a hundred miles or so if I'm on pavement.
 
I clean and lube every 100 miles +/-. I use a Park Tool cleaner and a quality chain specific lube. I've used several brands over the years. Something specific for my riding conditions, i.e. dry, wet, dusty..... Regular WD-40 or 3 in 1 isn't the best choice.

 
I clean and lube every 100 miles +/-. I use a Park Tool cleaner and a quality chain specific lube. I've used several brands over the years. Something specific for my riding conditions, i.e. dry, wet, dusty..... Regular WD-40 or 3 in 1 isn't the best choice.

WD-40 doesn't last long enough to be practical as a lubricant.. I tried as an experiment
But it does clean very well and I like it better than using a degreaser.
 
WD-40 doesn't last long enough to be practical as a lubricant.. I tried as an experiment
But it does clean very well and I like it better than using a degreaser.
It's an excellent cleaner. In the 90's WD-40 changed it's formula, in order to comply with California regulations. It used to be heavier with better oil. They do make a bike specific lube, but I've never tried it. Finish Line makes a good line of chain lubes for every riding condition.
 
I was watching a video from a repair shop and the technician stated that the 3 most important things that a bike owner can do, regardless of their mechanical background or ability, to keep you e-bike running good is to;

1. Keep battery charged
2. Keep tires properly inflated
3. Keep your chain lubricated

It seems to me the first 2 are probably kept up by most riders, but what about keeping the chain lubed?

Do you keep the chain properly lubed?
I’ve converted to wet wax chain lube, and am really happy with it. Almost completely silent, and reduced friction. I use Maxima chain wax, but there are plenty of other choices.
 
I’ve converted to wet wax chain lube, and am really happy with it. Almost completely silent, and reduced friction. I use Maxima chain wax, but there are plenty of other choices.
Maxima? For motorcycle chains?
 
Interestingly, if you ride on pavement with little dirt/dust but do have rain, chainsaw oil ranks pretty highly.

Has anyone ever tried Lucas Oil ?

It's got even more cling than chainsaw oil, it's almost rubbery ?

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My granular parrifin wax has Teflon and Molybdenum Disulfide additives.
Has anyone tested this stuff ?

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Runaway Bike HOT TUB Chain Lubricant https://a.co/d/9D5TWiI
 
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