Chain came off: Vado SL 4

[Stefan Mikes]

"Chain drops is something that happens to other people"

I don't want to repeat myself but the only case of a chain drop on my Vado SL happened when the derailleur hanger was as bent as it moved the chain one full indexing position towards the frame...

 

[soram]

We have 2 SLs. My wife's is fairly new and stock with probably less than 1000km on it. It throws the chain frequently enough. It is perfectly clean and aligned with the SRAM 11 speed.
Mine also had the 11 speed SRAM and also randomly threw the chain. I since upgrade to 12 speed using a SRAM cassette and chain to fit on the hub but a Shimano derailleur as I had one lying around. This also randomly throws the chain. Everything is perfectly set up, chain lengths, clutches etc. Final straw was a couple of weeks ago on vacation when the chain came off and then skewed the derailleur into the wheel wrecking the derailleur and hanger. I had to try to bend it out of the wheel and then walk 45 mins home and then try find a derailluer in an LBS in France. Almosy impossible. I did notice that directly after 'cleaning' both chains (rubbing down with a cloth and applying some lubricant) both bikes threw the chain within a few kms A dirty chain does not jump on me
I was at Specialized yesterday and asked about the issue but unfortunately they were clueless.

Reading the thread I will be buying a Gabaruk if I can get one here in Ireland! WIth the 12 speed would anybody recommend a different tooth number that the stock one? I ride quite a bit of offroad hills and some MTB trails here but also just a lot of tarmac for commuting around.

 

[Cycologist]

I had this happen to me a couple weeks ago.
Came down a hill and there is a bump at the end with a slight rise right after.
I've come down this trail a hundred times and never had a problem, but that day the chain popped off as soon as I hit the rise after the bump.
I think the combination of the bump / rise on the trail and with me coasting and providing no pressure to the pedals might have contributed to this.
Funny thing is, I had just cleaned the chain the day before, so maybe that contributed as well.

Now, every time I hit that spot, I make sure to put a little pressure on the pedals, so there is tension on the chain.
So far, so good.

 

[soram]

I had this happen to me a couple weeks ago.
Came down a hill and there is a bump at the end with a slight rise right after.
I've come down this trail a hundred times and never had a problem, but that day the chain popped off as soon as I hit the rise after the bump.
I think the combination of the bump / rise on the trail and with me coasting and providing no pressure to the pedals might have contributed to this.
Funny thing is, I had just cleaned the chain the day before, so maybe that contributed as well.

Now, every time I hit that spot, I make sure to put a little pressure on the pedals, so there is tension on the chain.
So far, so good.

I know I can probably mitigate a bit by adapting my style but I cannot impress that on my wife. I need a proper solution. I hope the different chainring will be that.
I am also now a little apprehensive going in to the hills if it means an hour or so walk home. Before I just put the chain back on and away but wrecking the derailleur was a pain. And the only one I could get quickly in France (we were in a camper on the move!) was a €280 XTR!!!!!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

WIth the 12 speed would anybody recommend a different tooth number that the stock one? I ride quite a bit of offroad hills and some MTB trails here but also just a lot of tarmac for commuting around.

A 38T, as on mine. Good climbing capability and adequate speed.

 

[soram]

A 38T, as on mine. Good climbing capability and adequate speed.

Just so I don't make a mistake!

I need a 38T 104BCD round ring? Nothing else I need to know? The website offers 4 bolts as an extra. Do I need these aswell or will the stock bolts work do you know?

Will I need a link out of the chain going from 41T to 38T do you know?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Just so I don't make a mistake!

I need a 38T 104BCD round ring?

Yes. A black one as these are readily available.

Nothing else I need to know? The website offers 4 bolts as an extra. Do I need these aswell or will the stock bolts work do you know?

You need these. You will also need a chainring nut wrench such as Park Tool CNW-2 as well as a usual set of hex keys.

You rotate the e-bike, that is put it on the bars and the saddle. Remove the chain. Remove the drive side pedal. I cannot quite remember how you remove the chainring guard but that should be easy (the screws are probably inside). Then just unscrew 4 chainring screws and remove the chainring.

An important point is the Praxis chainring you are removing has threaded holes, so it can just use screws from the outside. Any other chainring type has the holes unthreaded.

Now, place the Garbaruk chainring the way it is behind the spider (between the spider and the frame). You will notice only one of 4 holes is visible as all other are obscured by the motor. Insert one of the MTB bolts into the spider and through the chainring. Apply a nut. Keep the nut stationary with the CNW-2 and rotate a hex wrench from the outside but not fasten it yet. Then rotate the spider until one of next holes is visible then repeat with the next bolt and nut. When all 4 bolts are in place start fastening the bolts, one at the time.

For your information, the torque needed is not very high, 5 Nm.

When the new chainring is on, start working with the chain.

Will I need a link out of the chain going from 41T to 38T do you know?

You certainly don't have a 41 but 42T chainring? You need to remove 2 chain links (42-38)/2 = 2.

 

[soram]

Yes. A black one as these are readily available.

You need these. You will also need a chainring nut wrench such as Park Tool CNW-2 as well as a usual set of hex keys.

You rotate the e-bike, that is put it on the bars and the saddle. Remove the chain. Remove the drive side pedal. I cannot quite remember how you remove the chainring guard but that should be easy (the screws are probably inside). Then just unscrew 4 chainring screws and remove the chainring.

An important point is the Praxis chainring you are removing has threaded holes, so it can just use screws from the outside. Any other chainring type has the holes unthreaded.

Now, place the Garbaruk chainring the way it is behind the spider (between the spider and the frame). You will notice only one of 4 holes is visible as all other are obscured by the motor. Insert one of the MTB bolts into the spider and through the chainring. Apply a nut. Keep the nut stationary with the CNW-2 and rotate a hex wrench from the outside but not fasten it yet. Then rotate the spider until one of next holes is visible then repeat with the next bolt and nut. When all 4 bolts are in place start fastening the bolts, one at the time.

For your information, the torque needed is not very high, 5 Nm.

When the new chainring is on, start working with the chain.


You certainly don't have a 41 but 42T chainring? You need to remove 2 chain links (42-38)/2 = 2.

 

[soram]

OK! Many, many thanks for your information!

So I do need to order the bolts together with the rings. The rest I can manage. I'll order this evening

 

[PedalUma]

OK! Many, many thanks for your information!

So I do need to order the bolts together with the rings. The rest I can manage. I'll order this evening

Look into Narrow/Wide. These hold the chain better.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Look into Narrow/Wide. These hold the chain better.

I replaced the stock 44t chainring on my new SL 1 5.0 with a narrow-wide 40t Wolf Tooth before even taking it home. So far, no chain drops in just under 3,000 mi. That includes a good bit of bumpy hardpack.

Also a big win on the main goal, which was to keep cadence above 70 rpm on my worst hills (up to 20%). Good for motor efficiency, essential for my knees.

Occasionally find myself wishing for a 38t, but still think 40t is the best overall compromise for my old bird legs and local mix of hills, flats, and winds.

 

[soram]

Thanks guys.
My stock ring is actually 40T. Looking at Garbaruk and Wolf Tooth they are both around the same price with similar delivery costs. Garbaruk does not have a 40T in stock though at the moment and I'd like to stay with what my wife is riding on hers at the moment which is 40T. The Wolf Tooth bolts are damn expensive though!
Reddit is torn on differences. Some saying they are equal others not liking the Garbaruk quality and longevity!

Torn now

 

[soram]

Thanks guys.
My stock ring is actually 40T. Looking at Garbaruk and Wolf Tooth they are both around the same price with similar delivery costs. Garbaruk does not have a 40T in stock though at the moment and I'd like to stay with what my wife is riding on hers at the moment which is 40T. The Wolf Tooth bolts are damn expensive though!
Reddit is torn on differences. Some saying they are equal others not liking the Garbaruk quality and longevity!

Torn now

Ah but Wolf Tooth ships from the US Add another load of tax to the bottom line

 

[PedalUma]

Ah but Wolf Tooth ships from the US Add another load of tax to the bottom line

Another thing, Chainline. You can buy longer ringbolts and use chainring spacers between the spider and the ring to bring in the chainline so that first gear is less cross chained and more straight. Even 5 mm makes a difference as long as you still clear the frame and motor. Drops tend to happen at the extremes of the cassette. High gear has less tension and is more slack, so hitting a bump can cause a whip effect that drops the chain. Low gear is cross chained, pulls sideways and shifts the chain off the chainring.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Garbaruk is not only high tech. It is the material and manufacturing. A chain wraps around a Garbaruk ring as tightly as a glove fits a hand

 

[BioWheel]

Ah but Wolf Tooth ships from the US Add another load of tax to the bottom line

Was going to purchase WTooth but no 42t

 

[PedalUma]

Was going to purchase WTooth but no 42t

You can just take off a couple with a file.