vincent713
Active Member
You don't have to take the battery out if you're transporting it, I meant take it out to charge it. Just make sure the bike doesn't get bounced around in your car if the battery is still inside the bike.
Cemoto Electric Folding Mountain Bike
- Thread starter vincent713
- Start date
ebike-ebike
Member
I seem to remember a shop that does custom ebike stuff but cannot remember where it is, I spent some time searching but no luck yet, I will continue to look.
Like Vincent713 has mentioned, it is possible to do all the mods and upgrades yourself and it is fun to do!
Just don't go too powerful like I did on my first build:
Lol
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ebike-ebike
Member
After riding this ebike for a few days I think this bike has potential and I will eventually be doing some nice mods on this ebike to fit my riding style (some suspension and power mods) while being mindful of future advancements that I'm sure will be available soon (better motors, 48v batts, etc.).
This bike uses the cheapest controller that I have ever tried. It is basically a 20 mph on/off switch with no speed sensing or selectable PAS. This bike really needs selective PAS levels or at least speed sensing (better yet, speed sensing PAS). So I will be adding a more powerful hub motor and controller upgrade.
Suspension:
In order for 'all mountain' riding style with occasional 'downhill' which requires good suspension, I will be adding both front (high-travel) and rear Rockshox (although I prefer Foxx shocks) and will keep the mechanical disc brakes (although I prefer hydraulic discs).
For the power plant:
This bike needs selective PAS levels, so I will be seeking a high-amp controller (newer style controller that is 36v-72v capable) and 5 levels of PAS and LCD display.
For the motor; I will be increasing to 1200w 10T (high turn count which equals more torque, less speed) rear hub motor (the new type that runs with both 36v -48v in case I wish for more power later and as 48v batteries improve to fit inside frame).
This normally would require a better battery, but with this much power I will mostly only be using PAS levels 1 and 2 and only use the twist throttle (level 5) for short hill boosts. You will also want to move the twist-throttle up the handlebar more and use a full right grip so you don't accidentally hit the throttle using at least a 27.5" handlebar (3" wider than stock bar).
I just have to see what this battery can handle as far as continuous current output (amps) which is what will determine the highest wattage output until new batteries emerge.
I am still researching and not going to do the build on this one right away, but looking forward to any ideas or other people whom have upgraded their stuff!
This bike uses the cheapest controller that I have ever tried. It is basically a 20 mph on/off switch with no speed sensing or selectable PAS. This bike really needs selective PAS levels or at least speed sensing (better yet, speed sensing PAS). So I will be adding a more powerful hub motor and controller upgrade.
Suspension:
In order for 'all mountain' riding style with occasional 'downhill' which requires good suspension, I will be adding both front (high-travel) and rear Rockshox (although I prefer Foxx shocks) and will keep the mechanical disc brakes (although I prefer hydraulic discs).
For the power plant:
This bike needs selective PAS levels, so I will be seeking a high-amp controller (newer style controller that is 36v-72v capable) and 5 levels of PAS and LCD display.
For the motor; I will be increasing to 1200w 10T (high turn count which equals more torque, less speed) rear hub motor (the new type that runs with both 36v -48v in case I wish for more power later and as 48v batteries improve to fit inside frame).
This normally would require a better battery, but with this much power I will mostly only be using PAS levels 1 and 2 and only use the twist throttle (level 5) for short hill boosts. You will also want to move the twist-throttle up the handlebar more and use a full right grip so you don't accidentally hit the throttle using at least a 27.5" handlebar (3" wider than stock bar).
I just have to see what this battery can handle as far as continuous current output (amps) which is what will determine the highest wattage output until new batteries emerge.
I am still researching and not going to do the build on this one right away, but looking forward to any ideas or other people whom have upgraded their stuff!
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vincent
Well-Known Member
the bike is stable in the car while riding around but i think we all should be taking the battery out to prevent this problem i am running into
just took the bike out and put it together to show someone else and it did it again
if the bike unfolds even a little while you get it out or set it down it jams into the battery
so i will just remove the battery from here on out
just took the bike out and put it together to show someone else and it did it again
if the bike unfolds even a little while you get it out or set it down it jams into the battery
so i will just remove the battery from here on out
vincent
Well-Known Member
Lol, i think the bike is too fast for my old self and ebike wants to speed his up
Mine is definitely getting selectable pas somehow
Think the 36/48 selector would be good, at some point i might put a 48 volt battery if it had longer range
Right now i am ok with the power but maybe later i would want more
Lol, had two friends ride it today and nobody thinks it is super fast but me
in my defense they have all been riding it on pavement and the only time i have been on either bike is on my very rural , rough property and dirt road
i am running over sticks, big rocks and the roads are very washed out and rutted from monsoon right now
think if it was on a flat paved road or even hilly smooth road it would not seem so fast to me
ebike how about i buy us both some parts and you do the labor changing stuff out, i am totally up for that
do some research and pick out what we need , i will order and bring my bike up when it is all here
Mine is definitely getting selectable pas somehow
Think the 36/48 selector would be good, at some point i might put a 48 volt battery if it had longer range
Right now i am ok with the power but maybe later i would want more
Lol, had two friends ride it today and nobody thinks it is super fast but me
in my defense they have all been riding it on pavement and the only time i have been on either bike is on my very rural , rough property and dirt road
i am running over sticks, big rocks and the roads are very washed out and rutted from monsoon right now
think if it was on a flat paved road or even hilly smooth road it would not seem so fast to me
ebike how about i buy us both some parts and you do the labor changing stuff out, i am totally up for that
do some research and pick out what we need , i will order and bring my bike up when it is all here
vincent
Well-Known Member
sorry just saw the end of your email
not pushing you to upgrade if you are not ready
if you remember the name of the custom ebike place in phx let me know
i am doing some research for tucson and phx also
sure i could do some of this myself but have zero problems paying more qualified people to do it , especially since they may have better experience with which brands of parts are higher quality - know which electric controllers are higher grade/poorer grade etc
not pushing you to upgrade if you are not ready
if you remember the name of the custom ebike place in phx let me know
i am doing some research for tucson and phx also
sure i could do some of this myself but have zero problems paying more qualified people to do it , especially since they may have better experience with which brands of parts are higher quality - know which electric controllers are higher grade/poorer grade etc
ebike-ebike
Member
No problem, that build could possibly work for me. It would be a fun Fall or Winter project for sure.
For now I'm going to ride it 'as is' and bang up the stock parts, lol.
It's just good to know that we can expand on this platform when and if time and money prevails.
Also, good tip about the battery, I have 'arced' the contacts a few times myself just by touching the prongs with the side of the battery when removing or inserting the battery (the controller still stores a charge even when the power is off and the battery is completely out!) so when you pull the battery in or out and the battery's metal casing touches the exposed battery prongs it will arc badly with a large pop and huge spark!) - would be nice if the Manual mentioned that.
I haven't loaded/unloaded in car yet.
Hint: As soon as you open the bike and so the battery is no longer touching the prongs I've learned to press the Power button ON right for a few seconds to bleed the voltage, you will notice that the LED lights will actually light up, then dim to off (even with the battery out!)
And yes, always remember to turn power off before loading the battery so the motor doesn't turn on. When working on the bike I suggest removing the battery always.
For now I'm going to ride it 'as is' and bang up the stock parts, lol.
It's just good to know that we can expand on this platform when and if time and money prevails.
Also, good tip about the battery, I have 'arced' the contacts a few times myself just by touching the prongs with the side of the battery when removing or inserting the battery (the controller still stores a charge even when the power is off and the battery is completely out!) so when you pull the battery in or out and the battery's metal casing touches the exposed battery prongs it will arc badly with a large pop and huge spark!) - would be nice if the Manual mentioned that.
I haven't loaded/unloaded in car yet.
Hint: As soon as you open the bike and so the battery is no longer touching the prongs I've learned to press the Power button ON right for a few seconds to bleed the voltage, you will notice that the LED lights will actually light up, then dim to off (even with the battery out!)
And yes, always remember to turn power off before loading the battery so the motor doesn't turn on. When working on the bike I suggest removing the battery always.
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ebike-ebike
Member
Cool.
Here are some links for the 'techies' out there...
Here is a nice controller/motor simulator:
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
Did you know that there are also 'hot-rodding' that can be done to the controllers, here is a link to someone who builds, modifies, programs and sells 'souped-up' ebike controllers:
http://www.lyen.com
Here are some links for the 'techies' out there...
Here is a nice controller/motor simulator:
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
Did you know that there are also 'hot-rodding' that can be done to the controllers, here is a link to someone who builds, modifies, programs and sells 'souped-up' ebike controllers:
http://www.lyen.com
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vincent713
Active Member
ebike - it's funny that you mention "hot rodding" your bike from Lyen. I just contacted him about building me a controller for my bike. A 12 FET 3077 Mark II Extreme Modder LYEN Edition Controller which will accept 36v to 52v battery. He will pre-program the controller to increase the speed limit by 20% so the motor will spin faster using your stock battery. This will increase the top speed maybe up to 23 or 25mph. The motor is replaceable or can upgrade if it ever burn up. Our motor will probably peak at 500watt which I think can handle a 48v battery. If you want more speed then you can add a 48v battery at a later time. This is where the challenge begin, I can always install a rear rack and place the 48v battery there however I rather have it installed inside the frame. Question is where can I find a 48v battery that will fit inside the frame? The controller from Lyen will cost $136 and will have a wire plug ready to install an LCD display at a later time.
I'm perfectly fine with the suspension on this bike, the only thing I might change is a bigger front disk brake for better stopping when I hot rod it to go faster.
I'm perfectly fine with the suspension on this bike, the only thing I might change is a bigger front disk brake for better stopping when I hot rod it to go faster.
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vincent
Well-Known Member
wow, the controller stuff gets technical and complicated
i just want 3-5 speeds on the pas
might upgrade the shock and fork if someone convinced me the ride would be a lot smoother
and want the upright handlebars
but right now how fast it is, battery life etc is fine for what i want to do
on the silver latch hitting the battery, i will try to take a pic of that tomorrow, will be easy to show
my bike has spent a lot of time getting folded/unfolded and going in and out of the car
i always have the power off unless i am riding it , so have not sparked anything but have cracked the plastic battery case and am not happy about that at all
and it is very easy to do
think the solution is going to be remove the battery each time which is a hassle...
i just want 3-5 speeds on the pas
might upgrade the shock and fork if someone convinced me the ride would be a lot smoother
and want the upright handlebars
but right now how fast it is, battery life etc is fine for what i want to do
on the silver latch hitting the battery, i will try to take a pic of that tomorrow, will be easy to show
my bike has spent a lot of time getting folded/unfolded and going in and out of the car
i always have the power off unless i am riding it , so have not sparked anything but have cracked the plastic battery case and am not happy about that at all
and it is very easy to do
think the solution is going to be remove the battery each time which is a hassle...
vincent713
Active Member
vincent - every time you fold or unfold the bike, make sure the battery is locked and secure so the battery casing will not break. Once you have the bike unfold, you then unlock the battery and slide it out to charge or transport it to where ever you need to go. I'm not sure how you crack the battery case?
I think what you need is the setup that ebike initially post with the LCD display and controller for $44 plus shipping. This will allow you to use 5 different level speed of PAS within the LCD display. It will also show the speedometer (how fast you're going) odometer, battery life, has back lit for night viewing and many other options. Maybe ebike can help you install it.
http://www.elifebike.com
The controller I mention earlier is for hot rodding and making the motor go faster.
I think what you need is the setup that ebike initially post with the LCD display and controller for $44 plus shipping. This will allow you to use 5 different level speed of PAS within the LCD display. It will also show the speedometer (how fast you're going) odometer, battery life, has back lit for night viewing and many other options. Maybe ebike can help you install it.
http://www.elifebike.com
The controller I mention earlier is for hot rodding and making the motor go faster.
ebike-ebike
Member
That's great, would love to hear how that custom controller works for you.
I am used to more MX riding and am switching to ebikes as I'm getting older.
I'm looking for more torque and more suspension travel, etc. without spending a fortune like on the Haibikes, etc.
Good times...
vincent
Well-Known Member
unfolding it just now when i took it out of the car i see that the silver lever is actually pushed into the male prongs and jamming there, i did not realize that
orginally just saw where it was jamming into the actually end of the battery on the other side
i have the bike on a blanket in the suv and it sits upright in the car braced on the sides, kind of scoot the blanket and bike together to bring it out, maybe the blanket is pushing it between the prongs and then it is jammed, while i try to maneuver the bike and start to unfold it the end jams into the actual battery
but when the bike is folded in half and sitting down/forward onto the metal support by the pedals that silver latch comes forward by gravity and when you try to unfold the bike it is in the way and jams right there
i will either half to remove the battery each time or take small bungee etc and tie the latch back
but this has happened several times and it is always when you are tying to balance the folded bike and unfold it
the latch should have a spring, tension, hook something that keeps it open
orginally just saw where it was jamming into the actually end of the battery on the other side
i have the bike on a blanket in the suv and it sits upright in the car braced on the sides, kind of scoot the blanket and bike together to bring it out, maybe the blanket is pushing it between the prongs and then it is jammed, while i try to maneuver the bike and start to unfold it the end jams into the actual battery
but when the bike is folded in half and sitting down/forward onto the metal support by the pedals that silver latch comes forward by gravity and when you try to unfold the bike it is in the way and jams right there
i will either half to remove the battery each time or take small bungee etc and tie the latch back
but this has happened several times and it is always when you are tying to balance the folded bike and unfold it
the latch should have a spring, tension, hook something that keeps it open
vincent713
Active Member
vincent - you definitely want to move that latch to the other side before you unfold. Isn't that obvious? The way I unfold the bike is by lifting the front part up, make sure the latch is not in the way, then hold the handlebar on 1 hand and push (roll) the front wheel forward so the bike will snap together smoothly. You want to slowly snap or unsnap the battery and 5 prong controller to prevent from damaging the battery.
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