GypsyTreker
Well-Known Member
I'm on my 3rd Swagman rack system. My current is designed for two fat tire eBikes. Works great and on Amazon for $399.
Car rack--which brand
- Thread starter Alan Acock
- Start date
jbizzybiker
Member
thank you for the details. touched on several questions I had after viewing the 1UP owner videos. Question: What made the Saris MTR not a good choice? It looks like a very close design to the 1UP.1-UP Ramp (for the Super-Duty rack) is here.
I just set up my new 1Up Super-Duty today, and I have to say I'm not impressed. The wheels aren't so much held down as they're pushed towards each other. I think racks that let the front and/or rear tire sink into two depressions, or a wheel well, (like the Overdrive shown above) will be more stable. Although the Overdrive has the issue that it does clamp to the frame, which for carbon fiber frame owners like myself is something to be avoided. My old Saris rack with wheel wells seems to hold the bikes more firmly - and I'd still be using it today if it were compatible with Boost frame bikes.
Removing the 1UP hold-down arms from the bike isn't so easy. You just can't lift the release knob, you have to push the bike away from the arm you want to release and then you can lift the release knob. That whole ratcheting release thing has to be operated not just from the knob, but from the whole little arm on which the knob is located since it's dependent on some pivot action. And the notched track onto which the locking arm locks is just aluminum and after just a few mounts/dismounts it's already a bit disfigured. No way that's going to last a decade.
As for the ramp part, the cotter pin thing is really kludgy. You have to be careful not to lose pieces you remove to lower the arm (I reassemble the pin on the detached arm), and you have to remember to first place the opposite wheel holder in its approximate holding position so that when you wheel the bike up it can hold the bike somewhat while you remove the ramp and place it aside (somewhere), and then reassemble the locking bar with cotter pin (assuming you haven't dropped the washer in the meantime), and then you can push the other holder into place.
And the ramp stores at the end of the rack. It uses those "security" hex bolts, which is really just a hex wrench with a hole in it - not too hard to find. They sell locks that connect the two arms on either side of the wheels through the wheels, but the arms themselves are just bolted to the platform and are easily removed with ½" wrenches, so thieves can just take the bike with the arms away to hacksaw through the soft aluminum later. And, you're using that "special" hex wrench every time you use the ramp. So, security is minimal, even with the locks they sell.
I also bought the release handle extension for folding the rack. Without the extension, you're reaching under all the bikes to get at the handle. Not too bad for a 1-bike rack, but hard for a 2-bike rack and I'd say just about impossible if you add the 3 or 4 bike add-ons. The extension thing (not cheap) is a whole lot of aluminum just to extend a handle, and again it's a bit kludgy and doesn't operate smoothly since it's all aluminum against aluminum. A dab of grease helped, but you would think they could design in some delrin bushings to guide the arm while still retaining the metal to metal lock. The Kuat foot-operated release looks much better.
BTW, you can't mount both the 1Up license plate holder and the ramp. And the license plate holder gets in the way of the release handle extension. And the license plate pivot mechanism is really lousy, takes 2 hands, and squeaks, and it's just crazy bad. That's going back.
Also, while the spec for the normal rack size is 'up to 3.1" tires,' my 3.0" tires (measuring 2.95", btw) are a really tight fit on both the ramp and in the locking hold-downs. They do sell a fat tire spacer kit for up to 4.9" tires, but I didn't want to go that route for just 3" tires. And besides, the ramp doesn't come any wider than 3". BTW, when you roll up the ramp, the ramp itself has deep enough side walls to keep the tires on it, but the rack platform does not, so as you're wheeling the bike up, you have to watch the leading wheel to be sure it doesn't roll off the platform!
If it seems like I'm whining, remember that this is a $1k rack all in with the ramp, release handle, locks and tax.
BTW, I had looked at the Thule EasyFold XT 2, but it's got a frame arm and the arm to the second bike has to feed through the first bike, which would be impossible given my big batteried bike (Luna Apollo). The Kuat NV2.0 has arms to hold down the front wheels - the same setup sa my Saris, and is what made carrying two Boost bikes difficult. I notice in Kuat's video they show one fat bike and one super thin road bike - I'd be interested to see if two fat bikes fit without hitting the first bike's arm. Anyway, even the non-base is limited to bikes with 50" wheelbases (the 1Up handles 54", but my 49" wheelbase bikes are a tight fit since you have to position one arm ahead of time and if you position it too far in the back tire is off the platform and if you position the arm too far out the front then the front tire is off the platform. That may not be a problem for the Kuat since it has the wheel wells I was lamenting missing, but I hate cutting things so close (see my notes on 3" tires on the 1Up's 3.1" tire width claim). And I don't think there's a ramp for the Kuat.
I got the 1-Up due to multiple mentions here, and last weekend I saw someone with the rack and asked them how they liked it and he said he loves his rack. I don't get the love for this rack at all. I'd return it in a heartbeat if there was something better. I will admit that it's pretty light for its strength and that holding by the wheels is the way to go for carbon fiber frames, but I was expecting more for a grand.
Sigh. Loading bikes on my old Saris Cycle-On Pro is so quick and easy. Put the bike on the platform (the front wheel sits in a well that holds the bike up and push the self-ratching arm onto the front tire, and then flip the rear tire hold-down over the rear rim. No strap feeding/fiddling. No two arms to adjust to just the right angle. No contact with the bike frame or fork at all. If it handled two Boost bikes I'd still be using it.
(BTW, since EBR's search facility throws away words of 3 characters or less, you're going to have a hard time searching for 1Up racks.)
smorgasbord
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Honestly, I was swayed by all the reviews on the 1UP and didn't even look at other options. Looking now, the MTR seems pretty nice. I do like the wheel blocks in the trays, but I don't like having to strap in the rear wheel. I suspect that the MTR's arms, which don't have a separate locking arm, might not be as strong as the Super-Duty's. That said, I might look into jerry-rigging a wheel block onto my 1UP. At the very least, it would be a bike positioner, so that I know I have the bikes in the right positions since I'm always always carrying the same 2 bikes every time.
This is a decent comparison video:
What I see:
- I prefer the way the 1UP attaches to the hitch. As long as you insert the bar at least 4" into the receiver, you're golden. You can insert even more if you have clearance. The Saris uses its special hitch pin to snug up, and I don't think that'll be as solid a connection as you can get with the 1UP and its wrench (don't lose it1). Since the 1UP doesn't use the hitch pin to snug, they created a long slot in the bar, which enables you to add the locking pin no matter how deep you've got the bar in the receiver. Pretty slick. I did buy the $11 hitch bar stop from 1UP to make inserting to the right depth simple. Saris thoughtfully includes a built-stop on the MTR.
- The release for folding the rack on the MTR appears to work more smoothly than on the 1UP, as I complained about above. The video above, however, shows that the price you pay for smoothness on the MTR is quite a bit more play when the rack is in its Carry position. I did grease the 1UP contact points and now in thinking about it I'd rather have the less play than the easier tilt release.
- He didn't show putting on the rear wheel strap for the Saris MTR. Is that required or optional? Saris manual here.
- Interesting point in the video about the 1UP Equip-D having a closer spacing on the two racks. That is the exact problem I have with my Saris Cycle-On Pro, and why I went looking for a new rack.
- The 1UP weighs 47 lbs. The Saris weighs 55 lbs. Adding the release handle to the 1UP adds another 5+ pounds (I told you it was over-designed)!
minhcolu
New Member
I have the Yakima HoldUp 2 bike platform hitch rack and it’s a beast! I’ve had it now for 3 years and I’ve been able to transport both my ebikes up and down the east coast with no problems at all! Up to 60 lbs per bike and it’s also expandable to 4 bikes. The bike rack can also accommodate tires up to 4.8”. I think I paid around 450 when I purchased it, but I just saw that it’s on sale right now at REI for 360. IMO, Worth taking a look at if your looking at all and any options. Good luck!
smorgasbord
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Interesting. I'm almost hesitant to link to this flawed review:
The first issue he raises - (handlebars of one bike hitting seat of another) is due to the combination of both bikes being at the same height and having specific wheel wells to locate the bikes. There's just no way to move one bike to the left and one to the right to avoid that. He should try mounting the mountain bike first, btw.
But, he is not using the rack properly. The front arm is supposed to be resting against the front fork. That would eliminate both the bike coming out of the front tray as well as the button to fork clearance. He says that's a bummer for paint rubbing, and that's my concern with these type of racks.
jbizzybiker
Member
We have a Swagman from more than 10 years ago, purchased to carry two Electra Townies. It’s a tank, with those offset tube circles attached by bracket and knob to the sides similarly to the tire trays above. I’m taking to bike dealer to get opinion on what it might carry, really just to add to the listing for the townie—-only in my dreams would it carry two 55-60 lb ebikes.
jabberwocky
Well-Known Member
I actually had a Yakima Holdup for a while, and wasn't much of a fan. Very cheaply built, the built in locks failed within months, and it was never super rigid and got more rickety over time. My experience with all mass market racks (Thule, Yakima, etc) is that the build quality is usually fairly poor. Hardware rusts, they use lots of plastic that fades and cracks, paint chips and steel rusts. Their documentation usually says the warranty is void if you leave them on your car, so they aren't really designed for weather exposure. Mine is actually on my woodpile behind my shop, and anyone in NoVA who wants it, message and you can have it for free. It will need some repairs.
I am a huge fan of the 1Up I have now. Considerably more solid, and actually designed to last. I know people with 1ups that are 10+ years old and still working great. They stock the entire parts catalog as well, so if something does break you can call them up, get the part and fix it. Try that with a Yakima thats more than a few years old and you'll be SOL. You do need to learn 1ups locking method. If its so tight you can't undo it easily, its too tight. You don't need to really crank down on the wheels to hold the bike in place. I actually consider the tray (without wells) an advantage, because you can adjust the bikes position left-right. Between my GF and me we have 10 bikes, and some combinations have overlap between bars and the seattube/post. On the 1up you can just slide one to the side and it all racks up clean and neat.
I know quite a few people who have Kuat racks as well. I don't think they quite hold up to the 1up on construction quality, but tend to be above Saris/Yak/Thule. The Kuat NV 2.0 is what I'd get if I didn't go with the 1up.
I am a huge fan of the 1Up I have now. Considerably more solid, and actually designed to last. I know people with 1ups that are 10+ years old and still working great. They stock the entire parts catalog as well, so if something does break you can call them up, get the part and fix it. Try that with a Yakima thats more than a few years old and you'll be SOL. You do need to learn 1ups locking method. If its so tight you can't undo it easily, its too tight. You don't need to really crank down on the wheels to hold the bike in place. I actually consider the tray (without wells) an advantage, because you can adjust the bikes position left-right. Between my GF and me we have 10 bikes, and some combinations have overlap between bars and the seattube/post. On the 1up you can just slide one to the side and it all racks up clean and neat.
I know quite a few people who have Kuat racks as well. I don't think they quite hold up to the 1up on construction quality, but tend to be above Saris/Yak/Thule. The Kuat NV 2.0 is what I'd get if I didn't go with the 1up.
GypsyTreker
Well-Known Member
Check me, but I believe the Swagman was good for #110. My bikes , sans batteries, 93#. When I use the rack on my camper it's just the 26" fattie.
jbizzybiker
Member
thanks for the info.
so, if I follow correctly, you’re saying 100 lbs each of the two crossbars, or 55 lbs each?
I can say every part on our old Swagman is painted steel. The crossbars appear extruded steel bar stock.
My 2in hitch receiver is coming Saturday; once spousal unit installs it, we can use the Swagman as a measure of what we need to clear my Jeep‘s rear spare mount, at least.
I’ve wondered about transporting without the battery, particularly since it will be way hot for lithium batteries outdoors for the next four months. My question is—what about road dirt, etc., bouncing up off the pavement and into the battery cavity inside downtube?
I wouldn’t worry about an externally mounted battery.
GypsyTreker
Well-Known Member
That weight is with batteries removed. I always keep our bats in the car and will charge on my yeti goal 400 behind the passenger seat.
jbizzybiker
Member
OK, and the 93 is combined weight both bikes with batteries removed, correct?
Have you seen the Swagman E-Spec, an RV-approved rack, specs up to 70 lbs per tray? crossbars look set up like yours. The stinger and jointure to rack is beefier.
https://www.swagman.net/product.htm?pid=828203&cat=40497
GypsyTreker
Well-Known Member
I use this on our Aliner with the 26. The folder fits inside the popup no problem. Physics do come into play when something is suspened off the back of an RV. Hit a huge pothole in SC ( why would that be surprising?) and actually cracked the welds on the hitch reciever. Used c-clamps to get home. So its not just the stregnth of the rack, ever.
minhcolu
New Member
Interesting video...I guess I can only speak from personal experience, but I’ll post a few pics next time I have my bikes mounted...Ive never experienced any frame rub, handlebar contact with the second bike or with the bikes falling out of place while driving...Recently, I did a test mount with my new Haibike and my carbon road bike and it had plenty of clearance.
jbizzybiker
Member
interesting. can you tell me how long the stinger is from hitch receiver to where starts to turn vertical?
have you noticed paint rubbing off where hooks meet frame?
thk u.
bob armani
Well-Known Member
When they came out with the ramp kit, this was the deal maker for this awesome setup. This company gets my A+ rating. When I am ready to buy, this will be my rack of choice. A bit pricey, however, you get good bang for your buck IMO!
McCorby
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I have a Hollywood rack and really like it. It’s all steel, so it’s no lightweight. The model I have is rated for 50 lbs per bike slot and has a removable section (not shown) for two additional bikes. They also make a model that is eBike specific for heavier bikes. Very well made imho.
smorgasbord
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I'll just redundantly state again that I feel the 1UP is not worth the money, and should my rack get stolen or smashed, I would not buy another.
For instance, you need three hands to unload. You start with two hands - one pushing on the bike while the other overcomes the wedged lock mechanism. Then you go around to the other side and do the other wheel, which you think would be easier since the compression is off, but in fact you still need two hands for the mechanism (one on the handle, the other on the arm) and then you need a THIRD hand to hold the bicycle in place because now there are no arms in place to hold it!
I end up using my shoulder or head to hold the bike in place since I wasn't born with 3 arms.
And that ramp - the ultimate Rube Goldberg contraption. Even though my bikes are heavy, it's not worth the bother:
1) If the ramp is mounted in its storage position, get out the special hex wrench and loosen two bolts
2) remove the cotter pin
3) unhook the link
4) replace the cotter pin so you don't lose it
5) fold the arm down, watching out that the link doesn't snap back up at you
6) get the ramp and put it into position
7) roll the bike up the ramp, again watching out for that link
8) While holding the bike with one hand, reach over and swing the other arm up to hold the bike in place
9) remove the ramp and put it somewhere
10) remove/retrieve the cotter pin, swing the arm up
11) align the arm and the link just so, and then re-install the cotter pin
Now you either put the ramp back, or you repeat for the second bike. Which is HARDER since now you have the handlebars and cranks/pedals of the first bike interfering with the path the second bike wants to take. I end up having to position the first bike's cranks just so, then tilt the second bike so get enough clearance while making sure the front tire doesn't ride off the horizontal holding ramp, which it wants to do.
The ramp is clearly an afterthought. The 1UP may be good for light bikes you can just lift on and off, but for eBikes it's not convenient at all.
bob armani
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the heads up. Much appreciated. Sounds like it is not worth all the headaches/effort associated with its true functionality. The videos posted make it look so easy-peezy. I am going to have to re-asses this and draw further conclusions based on your post.
Currently I am using a Sport-Rack, much like the one McCorby has posted above. All hard steel and solid. A few easy steps sliding hook arms up, placing wheels into hoops, and slide down and secure. No plastic on the rack for the exception of the knobs to tighten the hoops/hooks. That's it! Have had the rack for close to 20yrs, and it still looks unused.
My thinking was go with an upgrade like the 1Up for easy mount dismount. Now I am having second thoughts. Cheers!
darksky
Member
- Region
- USA
Sorry to hear you find the 1up USA rack so frustrating to use. I've used a Thule Easyfold for a year and it IS frustrating and time consuming to secure our two ebikes on it. I recently received my 1up USA Super Duty Double with the ramp and it's a breeze to load the two bikes. They now use a quick release pin to detach/attach the ratchet arm so that alliviates the loose parts as you mentioned. I install the first bike by rolling it up the ramp, the roll the second bike up backwards which makes for no clearance problems with the handlebars and seats. For me using the 1up USA rack is VERY convenient with two eBikes. I do not have any of the problems you mention.
Brew61
Member
- Region
- Canada
How much do your bikes weigh? They say 2 bikes 60 Lbs each. My two bikes are 73 lbs and 60 lbs
Bruce
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