Can a battery have different cut off voltages?

[PCeBiker]

@Nvreloader
If your connector looks something like this, then forget it.

It's too easy to touch the probes together and short something out.

 

[Gionnirocket]

@Nvreloader
If your connector looks something like this, then forget it.

It's too easy to touch the probes together and short something out.

View attachment 148887

Best thing to do in these cases is to make up a test lead. Get the matching end and have free wires on the other end to test...
Or get both a male and female, make an extension cord that you can then also measure current.

 

[PCeBiker]

Best thing to do in these cases is to make up a test lead. Get the matching end and have free wires on the other end to test...
Or get both a male and female, make an extension cord that you can then also measure current.

That's what I did to plug in my battery,..

 

[Gionnirocket]

That's what I did to plug in my battery,..

View attachment 148892View attachment 148893View attachment 148894

That's what I was going to suggest next... You can get some small insulated bullet connectors that will probably be good enough for some quick test leads

 

[Gionnirocket]

That's what I did to plug in my battery,..

View attachment 148892View attachment 148893View attachment 148894

I made these up for testing the battery, charger or allow me to use my bench top power supply as a charger.

 

[PCeBiker]

I bought a bunch of plugs because I got faster shipping with orders over $11 or so.

I got the 4mm to plug into my bench power supply, home speakers, and multimeter.
And the 3mm for my battery, and a few 3.5mm to bring my total up for free shipping.

It's a good thing that I got the 3.5mm because that's what fit my battery.
I have a digital vernier caliper, but it's hard to measure 0.5mm and 's are kinda squishy.

I also bought some larger 4:1 shrink tube with glue. I already had smaller shrink tube but it's only 2:1 shrink ratio with no glue, so I bought a bunch of the good stuff in smaller sizes, and enough for fast shipping.

 

[PCeBiker]

I heard about the special plastic beads that you use to make your own dentures and how it works to make things out of plastic, so I bought a ton of that.



I was practicing,..



Your supposed to heat it up in hot water, but it's hard to work with a glob of mushy plastic, so I bought a small glue gun and cut the head off a bolt to make a plunger for it.
I just pour the beads into the chamber, let it melt, then put the plunger in.

 

[Nvreloader]

Ok Guys
My BIL just came over, (he is a master mechanic on all the electronics vehicle stuff)
he cut off the end of a ball point ink filler tube, and slipped over/to insulate each pin and I got a reading of 54.0v with the charger running, checked the other charger and it's the same reading of 54.0v.

Question:
Can I put either #3 or 4 battery (brand new, just bought) back on the charger
and do some VM checking while charging, (can use the discharge end of the battery) to see the results, if these chargers will produce higher results, by running longer?
I will NOT LEAVE the battery when charging.

I'll note the V reading before during and after for the log book.

What does CC to CV thresh hold mean?

Tia,
Don

 

[Slaphappygamer]

Constant Current

Constant Voltage

 

[Slaphappygamer]

One could always install a battery cullometer to monitor your battery.
View attachment 148858

I have the same meter. What case is that? Please share.

 

[Nvreloader]

Guys
Also, I forgot to add this info, I peddle just about 97+% when I am out riding around,
the road test with the cruise control results were the first time using a lot of throttle time, normally it's a very quick blip here and there as only needed.
I have never felt the loss of bat power when peddling, like the cruse control results.
Would I feel the same lack of power when peddling?

Tia,
Don

 

[Gionnirocket]

Ok Guys
My BIL just came over, (he is a master mechanic on all the electronics vehicle stuff)
he cut off the end of a ball point ink filler tube, and slipped over/to insulate each pin and I got a reading of 54.0v with the charger running, checked the other charger and it's the same reading of 54.0v.

Question:
Can I put either #3 or 4 battery (brand new, just bought) back on the charger
and do some VM checking while charging, (can use the discharge end of the battery) to see the results, if these chargers will produce higher results, by running longer?
I will NOT LEAVE the battery when charging.

I'll note the V reading before during and after for the log book.

What does CC to CV thresh hold mean?

Tia,
Don

Go for it... but part of the issue may be that the charger is only putting out 54.0v. Not the end of the world, your talking a few percent.
The charger starts off with a (CC) Constant Current of 5a in your case.... Then as it reaches full charge it slowly starts to lower current while maintaining a (CV) Constant Voltage.

 

[PCeBiker]

Question:
Can I put either #3 or 4 battery (brand new, just bought) back on the charger
and do some VM checking while charging, (can use the discharge end of the battery) to see the results, if these chargers will produce higher results, by running longer?
I will NOT LEAVE the battery when charging.

You should be more than fine doing that.
This is what my manual says,..

It is a 21ah battery with a 3 amp charger though.

 

[PCeBiker]

Would I feel the same lack of power when peddling?

Almost certainly not.
Using heavy throttle is most likely what caused the voltage sag that cut out your battery prematurely.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Guys
Also, I forgot to add this info, I peddle just about 97+% when I am out riding around,
the road test with the cruise control results were the first time using a lot of throttle time, normally it's a very quick blip here and there as only needed.
I have never felt the loss of bat power when peddling, like the cruse control results.
Would I feel the same lack of power when peddling?

Tia,
Don

In all cases a 46.6v shut down is a bit high and warrants some investigation.

 

[PCeBiker]

Would I feel the same lack of power when peddling?

In all cases a 46.6v shut down is a bit high and warrants some investigation.

If you are pedaling, then your battery will most likely not shut down until your voltage is much closer to 40 volts.

 

[Gionnirocket]

You should be more than fine doing that.
This is what my manual says,..

View attachment 148928

It is a 21ah battery with a 3 amp charger though.

Battery capacity and charger output shouldn't matter.

I've never seen such instructions for Li ion batteries as they are supposedly to have no memory effect and that seems reminiscent of NiCad.
Now if you do have a true Balance BMS.. maybe there's something there built into the hardware?
I have seen somewhat similar instructions for cell phones... But that was for calibration of the built in battery monitor, not battery life span.

Again there's so much varying hardware out there... Who the flock knows

 

[PCeBiker]

Again there's so much varying hardware out there... Who the flock knows

It's a Das-Kit e-bike, and they are supposed to have "Practical German Engineering" but I have no idea what exactly that means? And I can't find any information about it. Das-Kit only has about 1% of the market and knowbody seems to be familiar with it.
The charger is UL certified and the battery has the CE mark on it. (the real one, not the fake one)

I've charged my battery about 5-6 times, and the one time I did do the full charge and drain of the battery.
I rode it from full charge, at full throttle, and no pedaling at all and brought it down to 39 volts and the battery still didn't kick out.

When it comes to charging, I dunno?
Maybe it's designed to "force a balance charge" in some way?
It's only a 2 pin charge port on the battery so it's not like the charger is talking to the battery.

I kinda wanna open up the charger and battery to see what's going on, but I've decided not to mess with it.

I may use my bench charger to charge it though, that way I can see when it switches from CC to CV, then watch what the current does.

Ohh,..
ET.CYCLE has the same parent company as NCM that uses Das-Kit.
The NCM stands for Nickel Cadmium Magnesium. That's the chemistry they use to make their lithium batteries.
So the battery does have Nickel and Cadmium in it.
Maybe that's why you treat it like a Ni-Cad?

 

[Nvreloader]

Guys
I think, I'll do this process, take the #3/4 battery's and redo the road test,
same as before, then recharge them back and let the charger run longer,
after the light changes to green color, while I monitor them,
checking ever half hour and take readings etc.
I can charge both at the same time, that way I am not sitting here for several hrs.

If the charger raises the voltage higher than the average 53.8v, (Now)
when should I stop the charging? I know, I don't want to go to 54.6v,
as that is 100 % charged, not good for these battery's.

I might just put on the rain suit, and slug it out with the wind,
I am tired of waiting on the wind to let down......around here.

Thoughts and suggestions...........
Tia,
Don

 

[PCeBiker]

Again there's so much varying hardware out there... Who the flock knows

Just be careful @Nvreloader

Your kinda playing with now.

Chances are that if something goes really wrong, you'll pop your charger or the battery will shut down.

But anything is possible.

PS,..
How did you make out with your emergency chain and derailleur?