BMC Alpenchallenge AMP E-bikes

[yach]

Hello,

I've been asked a couple times how I managed to put a child seat on my BMC Alpenchallenge AMP bike.

So here's a HOWTO. Please correct my mistakes (language or technical) if I'm wrong, english is not my mother tongue and I'm new to technical terms

Front seat : I bought a Thule Yepp Nexxt Mini. The supplied mounting clip needs to be attached to the top of the fork, after removing some spacers. Be careful as it's not easy to tighten correctly and the steering may be loose. This works well for my daughter (13kgs and 92cm), I tested and approved it with her !

Rear seat : there are 4 steps. You can't use a frame mounted child seat, there is not enough space on the seat tube above the battery (7cm only, even on a 61cm frame, where you need 7,5cm for old Polisport fixing system, and 8 to 10cm for all the other main brands I checked : Hamax, Bobike, Thule, Urban Iki).

1. Remove the existing rear rack. On my model (BMC Alpenchallenge AMP City Two), this was a Tubus Fly Evo which holds only 18kgs, too few for a child seat and the child (and it's a bit too narrow too). Two screws near the hub, easily accessible, and a third screw which has a head behind the wheel; it is not easily accessible, I recommend removing the wheel first (I tried after only deflating the tire but it's hard). This screw holds the mudguard and the rack to the frame altogether. Then you put the mudguard and the wheel back.
   Disclaimer : I followed the first step, not the 3 next ones, my daughter is still less than 15kgs, but I studied them thoroughly.
   
   
2. Replace the seatpost clamp by something with fixing points like this : https://www.bike-components.de/en/Problem-Solvers/Seatpost-Clamp-w-Rack-Mounts-p62651/
   You will use those fixing points to mount the new rear rack, so you'll have 4 fixing points (2 on the seatpost clamp, 2 near the hub).
   
   
3. Select and mount a sturdy rear rack. Tubus discourage (and does not guarantee) putting child seats on their racks, even the sturdiest. I don't think this would break any moment, but you may want to try something sturdier like this one : https://oldmanmountain.com/product/sherpa-frame-fit-kit-complete-bike-rack/
   
   
4. Select and mount whatever child seat you please, and enjoy the ride !

I hope this helps, feel free to comment !
And I hope BMC will reconsider its designs for city bikes, as we are more and more parents willing to take our children with us without compromise on quality and beauty of our bikes !

 

[FrancoPoz]

Greetings from Italy. I too have followed with interest the discussions on this forum on choices and tips for buying an eBike. today i bought a BMC AMP Alpenchalleghe sport Two. I tried it in advance last Sunday and Monday. I will tell you in a subsequent post how I equipped it. The two test results convinced me about the goodness of the eRoad. attached to my post I am sending you the two maps and the data of my releases. The BMC has a 630 KWatt battery that allowed me to do two laps in a row with a single charge, both of about 100 km and with 1750 meters of elevation gain. I live in Padua, a pretty city near Venice where there are courses with slopes of various types, even very demanding ones with values above 20%. the length of these climbs varies between 2 km up to a maximum of 6 km. I therefore consider my test to be reliable and truthful. The BMC AMP Alpenchallenge is a great bike and the Shimano Steps E6100 motor is an excellent motor. I also tried the Fazua of a Pinarello Nytro but there is no comparison. I'll talk about it in another post. I used the assistance only in ECO mode and a little in NORMAL mode. I used the GRX gear ratios a lot like when I ride my muscular F10. That is, I pedaled like being without the engine. Translated: I put my own. But the heart and its beating really remained at threshold levels that were unexpected and absolutely calm for me.. What else do I see? if the weather permits it, next week I will make the long and demanding climb of Monte Grappa: 21 km of ascent up to an altitude of 1850 meters with variable gradients between 7% and 18%. It will be a very nice but very meaningful test. I hope I have made a nice purchase.

 

[Ebiker01]

The BMC has a 630 KWatt battery

Did the 630wh battery came as an option or it was included ? And is Wh not kwatt , 1kwh=1000wh .

 

[ephemere]

Greetings from Italy. I too have followed with interest the discussions on this forum on choices and tips for buying an eBike. today i bought a BMC AMP Alpenchalleghe sport Two.

Congratulations on your choice! I think the BMC website shows the Sport Two with flat bars. Do you have drop bars? I look forward to hearing more of your experience with the bike and comparisons with other bikes you tried.

 

[FrancoPoz]

Did the 630wh battery came as an option or it was included ? And is Wh not kwatt , 1kwh=1000wh .

The dealer did not have the standard 500Kw battery and I asked if the new 630Kw Steps battery could be installed and did this update.

 

[FrancoPoz]

Congratulations on your choice! I think the BMC website shows the Sport Two with flat bars. Do you have drop bars? I look forward to hearing more of your experience with the bike and comparisons with other bikes you tried.

I set up the BMC as an eRoad and not as an eBike ... at least I mean the bicycle with pedal assistance ..... I had it mounted on the 30" wheels instead of the original 34" ones. I believe and hope that this intervention will allow for greater fluency. Other significant interventions I have not done. I found the gear ratios to be excellent as they allow good driveability even without engine assistance. For the rest, my experience was limited to a test but not too significant with the Polini engine. The Polini engine is an Italian engine made by a famous company that in the past dealt with processing on racing bikes. It is a firm of absolute reliability. That said, I found the engine powerful and partly too much for an eRoad. For an eMTB it is excellent but for an eRoad it is too powerful. But regardless of my opinions, it is my belief that Shimano has a more cycling and less motoristic approach to the theme of e-Roads and E-bikes than others. Shimano is a leader in components for racing bikes and I believe that Steps engines better than others integrate into the cycling philosophy without altering the meaning and philosophy of pedaling. The Polini is not as smooth as the Stepas E6100 and a little louder. In assistance he is definitely more supportive and more incisive. I have tried another excellent Italian OLI EDS engine. The Italian company that produces these engines is not so well known but its engine is very, very performing and very good in smoothness and assistance. In my opinion it is even more performing than the Polini ... more homogeneous in delivery and smoother. It has a good silence and is equipped with numerous options such as torque meter and pedaling frequency. For me, as an Italian, the Polini or EDS OLI would be two obligatory choices but those who use the Polini (Bianchi Impulso or Basso Volta to quote) have a product that compared to the BMC AMP is not of the same level and at higher costs.

 

[francoismoret]

I'd send a PM to @flybywire since he installed what you plan on installing. I'd surmise the rear light wiring would be along the top underside of the fender.

Enjoy the Sport.

Thanks @BillH, I'll do that !

 

[Ebiker01]

The dealer did not have the standard 500Kw battery and I asked if the new 630Kw Steps battery could be installed and did this update.

How does it look like ? can you upload a picture , thanks .

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

Hi @Angela M. and @troehrkasse,
Now we have the BMC sub-frum, can we move this thread to the BMC forum, please?

 

[troehrkasse]

Hi @Angela M. and @troehrkasse,
Now we have the BMC sub-frum, can we move this thread to the BMC forum, please?

Done

 

[yach]

Hi,

I chose my AMP Alpenchallenge City Two bike in 61cm size. However, after some time driving (say 1h to 1h30), I find it tiring for my shoulders. I've been advised replacing my stem by a shorter one.

Is there anything I should be careful to ? May I choose any stem (of the right size) ? Does BMC provide different fitting stems of different lengths, if so, are they available separately (what reference numbers) and where could I find them ?

Many questions, sorry
Thanks for any hints.

 

[EdinburghJim]

Hi,

I chose my AMP Alpenchallenge City Two bike in 61cm size. However, after some time driving (say 1h to 1h30), I find it tiring for my shoulders. I've been advised replacing my stem by a shorter one.

Is there anything I should be careful to ? May I choose any stem (of the right size) ? Does BMC provide different fitting stems of different lengths, if so, are they available separately (what reference numbers) and where could I find them ?

Many questions, sorry
Thanks for any hints.

I have the same stem, I think, and had same issue. It's a +/- 8 degrees stem on the aluminium AMP bikes. It's initially installed as -8 degrees but can be installed the other way up to make it +8degrees, which lifts the bars an inch. Easy to do (and undo), look at youtube for video, takes 10mins.

I also chopped the handlebars down to 58cm, which raises my shoulders another inch. Easy with a little hacksaw. The bars on the new bike (68cm?) are really the widest you might want. It's quite normal to cut them down to taste. The bars come with markings to assist. My usual is about 58 cm cos I ride on roads, not mountain trails, mainly.

One thing - if you cut more than 5cm-ish per side, you'll see you have to watch out for the controller cable that runs inside the bars. Just cut a little notch in the end of the bar so it doesn't get squashed by the handgrip where it feeds inside. You'll see what I mean when you remove the handgrip and see how the cable feeds inside under the grip.

Re your actual question : You can replace the stem and it doesn't have to be BMC brand. Lots of bigger angle upright stems in bike shops and online. Need to match to the handlebar tube diameter and the fork steerer tube diameter (just a few different sizes of these, google to check yours) and it's easier if the new stem is the same (40mm?) height where it collars the steerer (so you don't have to think about adding/removing steerer spacers). Maybe they're all the same height there, I can't remember. Other than that, you might want a cm shorter stem but it's more a bigger angle you are after, like 12 or 16 degrees. But, yes, start with just flipping the current stem, wld be my advice.

 

[yach]

I have the same stem, I think, and had same issue. It's a +/- 8 degrees stem on the aluminium AMP bikes. It's initially installed as -8 degrees but can be installed the other way up to make it +8degrees, which lifts the bars an inch. Easy to do (and undo), look at youtube for video, takes 10mins.

I also chopped the handlebars down to 58cm, which raises my shoulders another inch. Easy with a little hacksaw. The bars on the new bike (68cm?) are really the widest you might want. It's quite normal to cut them down to taste. The bars come with markings to assist. My usual is about 58 cm cos I ride on roads, not mountain trails, mainly.

One thing - if you cut more than 5cm-ish per side, you'll see you have to watch out for the controller cable that runs inside the bars. Just cut a little notch in the end of the bar so it doesn't get squashed by the handgrip where it feeds inside. You'll see what I mean when you remove the handgrip and see how the cable feeds inside under the grip.

Re your actual question : You can replace the stem and it doesn't have to be BMC brand. Lots of bigger angle upright stems in bike shops and online. Need to match to the handlebar tube diameter and the fork steerer tube diameter (just a few different sizes of these, google to check yours) and it's easier if the new stem is the same (40mm?) height where it collars the steerer (so you don't have to think about adding/removing steerer spacers). Maybe they're all the same height there, I can't remember. Other than that, you might want a cm shorter stem but it's more a bigger angle you are after, like 12 or 16 degrees. But, yes, start with just flipping the current stem, wld be my advice.

Thank your very much for this thorough answer. I will try turning the stem upside down, hoping it will be enough. I agree the handlebars are a bit wide too, but I'm not that confident using a hacksaw on this superb bike and maybe I won't feel like it's still an issue once I'm done with the stem.

Thanks again !

 

[bob armani]

Thank your very much for this thorough answer. I will try turning the stem upside down, hoping it will be enough. I agree the handlebars are a bit wide too, but I'm not that confident using a hacksaw on this superb bike and maybe I won't feel like it's still an issue once I'm done with the stem.

Thanks again !

FYI- This conduit cutter tool does a nice job to cut tubing if you are interested:

 

[dougpnirv]

FYI- This conduit cutter tool does a nice job to cut tubing if you are interested:

View attachment 76964

I recently got an Alpenchallenge AMP City One. My height was on the cusp of Medium & Large. The dealer advised going large (maybe that's what was in stock?). My old bike is a steel touring bike with upright bars. After 20 miles, my neck & shoulders were killing me. I didn't like the flat bars anyway so I changed to Ahearne MAP (same as on my other bike) with Ergon grips. Definite improvement but still a long reach, about 2" further than my other bike. The dealer loaned my a stem with more angle than the stock, and I installed "angled up". I intend to try a stem with as little reach as possible.

One side note: The loaner stem does not have the cut-out where the headlight mounts. I have to make sure future stems have that so I can attach the headlight. The stock & the loaner use different screw sizes so I can't just use the stock faceplate on the loaner.

 

[BillH]

I recently got an Alpenchallenge AMP City One. My height was on the cusp of Medium & Large. The dealer advised going large (maybe that's what was in stock?). My old bike is a steel touring bike with upright bars. After 20 miles, my neck & shoulders were killing me. I didn't like the flat bars anyway so I changed to Ahearne MAP (same as on my other bike) with Ergon grips. Definite improvement but still a long reach, about 2" further than my other bike. The dealer loaned my a stem with more angle than the stock, and I installed "angled up". I intend to try a stem with as little reach as possible.

One side note: The loaner stem does not have the cut-out where the headlight mounts. I have to make sure future stems have that so I can attach the headlight. The stock & the loaner use different screw sizes so I can't just use the stock faceplate on the loaner.

Have you adjusted the seat position on the seat rails?

 

[dougpnirv]

Have you adjusted the seat position on the seat rails?

Yes. I changed out the stock seat for a Brooks B-17, & carefully located to the crank to be the same as my old bike.

Each change brings improvement so I'm on the right track. It's an entirely different bike from my old one so if I can get buy with only buying a stem I'll consider myself lucky. The bar change was always part of the plan. I'm sure the stock ones are fine for someone younger & more nimble.

 

[BillH]

I'm not sure about others but after my full riding season of 2020 I found that the MTT Damper was no longer silent and I got some squeaking noises, for lack of a better word, coming from the MTT damper area. I followed the BMC MTT Service and Maintenance Manual (attached to this post - English version) and inspected the serviceable parts and realized that my Guide Shafts simply needed a lube. Luckily they weren't worn as to need replacement.

Point of post is that it is a relatively easy task to accomplish and personally think it's a good idea to do once a year regardless. Make sure you have a decent torque wrench since the shafts need a precise 8Nm of torque so as not to result in premature wear of MTT parts and/or possible frame damage.

 

[Rainbow_Warrior]

Hi,

I am thinking about ordering an Alpenchallenge Amp Road Two in size M (2020 model, with drop bars) as a commuter. The Orbea Gain M30 and Bianchi Aria E-Road are also on my shortlist (both with x35 motor), but I prefer the BMC because of the powerful E6100 motor, 504kW battery and easy tuning options.

I have the following questions:

A) Where can you best attach a heavy lock to the frame? Bottle holder? I currently use an Abus Bordo Granit which is attached to the vertical tube of my Trek Domane, but this solution is not possible for the BMC because of the battery.

B) My stride length is about 86cm for 1m84, which means about 76cm saddle height on my muscular road bikes with clip-ons and 172.5mm crank (the BMC has 170mm). I will be at the limits but would like confirmation that a M would fit (from a saddle height point of view).

C) What are the options to control the integrated Shimano screen/computer? Just the one button on the computer itself? On the Road One (higher end model) you can use the left Di2 shifter for this, but the Road Two only has mechanical GRX shifters. M. E. There are two solutions, either a SW-E700 switch to mount on the handlebars, or to convert a Di2 shifter.

D) What tires would you prefer for a city-road commuter? Tire weight doesn't matter to me.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Elbee]

I just fitted the WTB Byway and the Herkelmann Wingees. Doesn’t add to much weight, neither physically, nor optically.
It was quite a hassle to get the Wingees attached. But I’m quite happy after the first testride. And after all this is my go to bike for everything, driving around my son, visiting clients and doing sports.
The Byways leak a lot of air, so I need to try to find the weak spot first

View attachment 67227


View attachment 67228

I just fitted the WTB Byway and the Herkelmann Wingees. Doesn’t add to much weight, neither physically, nor optically.
It was quite a hassle to get the Wingees attached. But I’m quite happy after the first testride. And after all this is my go to bike for everything, driving around my son, visiting clients and doing sports.
The Byways leak a lot of air, so I need to try to find the weak spot first

View attachment 67227


View attachment 67228