Bafang Ultra Alternative Settings For Basic, Pedal Assist & Throttle Handle..

Ultra software - w/torque tab. Otherwise it's functionally the same as the BBSxx drives.

The optional display I'm considering is the 750c. It has 2 things I like going for it. It's mounted horizontally for starters, and the watt meter is larger and easier to read. Like the difference between 75w and 250w for instance. That's where the majority of my tuning is taking place. I'm used to a real time digital read out when riding the KT controller display equipped bike, so I lean on that a lot. Even basing my PAS levels and what gear I'm in on that reading. I guess I'm kinda anal in that reqard.....

I'm a little shy about writing something up that I've found works for me personally. My point is rather than take a shot gun approach, identify specific problems you'd like to take care of. I'd personally be happy to give anyone asking about a specific problem a hand - if it's within the range of something I've messed with anyway. I'm sure others would be willing to share regarding individual problems they've run into and managed to fix as well? Nobody has done that yet, that I've seen anyway. Everyone is writing up these big posts with multiple screen shots - without saying anything about their riding preference or what the focus was that led to the changes they made. -Al
 
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that's good to know you could help someone if they ask :cool:, the main post I put up in this thread were the settings from the biktrix bike which has the ultra motor, they claim that their settings make the bike smoother.

I suppose trial and error is the way to go for the type of riding that person does
 
that's good to know you could help someone if they ask :cool:, the main post I put up in this thread were the settings from the biktrix bike which has the ultra motor, they claim that their settings make the bike smoother.

I suppose trial and error is the way to go for the type of riding that person does
I ran into a huge mess over that claim. It cost them a sale. My credit card was on the desk ready to buy a bike. I asked their 3rd level of support for my options regarding custom programming, and was told there was nothing available, that the bikes were shipped as they got them. When I published that tech's reply in the Biktrix forum for discussion, the stuff hit the fan. I was accused of incompetence, my ability to read plain english comprehensibly, stealing company secrets, and begging to get something for nothing. That was the end of that. I bought my Rize for a thousand less and haven't looked back....

The solution might be a little trial and error, but you'll be working within just a couple of parameters, not the entire contents of 5 tabs of parameters. -Al
 
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no that's crazy, them guys sound nuts haha they won't get far with support like that.

I suppose the thing we will have in common is the Bafang ultra motor, you sound quite happy with this motor after some very slight tweaks, i hold high hopes for when i try mine out, due to me not being able to try before i buy and having to wait over 16 weeks up to now all i have been doing is reading so many diverse comments and not knowing which ones to believe is a nightmare, i look forward to adding my own personal riding view
 
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So what is the max rpm the ultra can run at before overheating? I am a few months out from getting my first ebike with a Bafang ultra. I'd like to program it to go past 20mph on throttle only. Chainring is 48T and gears are 12,14,16,18,21,26,32. With 26x4.9 tires. 48v21ah battery.
 
Not sure of the Ultra rpm potential, but the overheating will most likely come into play regarding the load you have on the motor - which can easily be seen real time by observing the watt meter. I believe it comes standard with a built in temp sensor that will start turning down the power when it gets hot....

The motor as you get it will likely be capable of blowing through 30mph pretty easily. Wether it will do that out of the box, or you'll need to play with a couple settings in the controller software (using a lap top and programming cable) will be the only question.
 
Not sure of the Ultra rpm potential, but the overheating will most likely come into play regarding the load you have on the motor - which can easily be seen real time by observing the watt meter. I believe it comes standard with a built in temp sensor that will start turning down the power when it gets hot....

The motor as you get it will likely be capable of blowing through 30mph pretty easily. Wether it will do that out of the box, or you'll need to play with a couple settings in the controller software (using a lap top and programming cable) will be the only question.

Where would I find the speed limit for throttle in the programming software?
 
Where would I find the speed limit for throttle in the programming software?
Supposedly this is the penultimate source:

I am a Mac person and have no windoz machine and wouldn't know what I was doing anyway. I too have an ultra motor bike headed my way. Sposed to be here inside a month. I eagerly look forward to finally being able to find out just what it is to use this motor and whether or not I can live with it. If it's really bad I'm going to buy a motor from Wattwagons and switch it out. Then send the original motor to them to have their controller put in it. Always good to have a replacement motor lying about. Yes it's a crippling expense but dang it I want a bike I can love.
 
Where would I find the speed limit for throttle in the programming software?
Go to the link below and under the "Basics" tab, check out the comments regarding "Limit Current(%) and Limit Spd(%)".
Then, under the "Throttle Handle" tab, check out comments regarding "Speed Limited"


Reed, maybe you already know this, but that controller that WattWagons installs uses proprietary software for programming. Check it out! YOU will not be able to make configuration changes using the programming cable like you can using the stock controller (using open source software). You will likely end up paying somebody to make an update file that will include the changes that you want to make. I think it's a safe bet those are NOT going to be free.

Too, Penoff's software is top shelf, but it's geared to the BBSXX series of drives, which will work on the Ultras - but does not include the tab used to program the Ultra torque sensing. -Al
 
Go to the link below and under the "Basics" tab, check out the comments regarding "Limit Current(%) and Limit Spd(%)".
Then, under the "Throttle Handle" tab, check out comments regarding "Speed Limited"


Reed, maybe you already know this, but that controller that WattWagons installs uses proprietary software for programming. Check it out! YOU will not be able to make configuration changes using the programming cable like you can using the stock controller (using open source software). You will likely end up paying somebody to make an update file that will include the changes that you want to make. I think it's a safe bet those are NOT going to be free.

Too, Penoff's software is top shelf, but it's geared to the BBSXX series of drives, which will work on the Ultras - but does not include the tab used to program the Ultra torque sensing. -Al
Thanks. that cleared up only part of my question. That tab for speed limited only goes to 40kph. How do i go past that?
 
Thanks. that cleared up only part of my question. That tab for speed limited only goes to 40kph. How do i go past that?
I think that answer is going to depend on what display you are using. Without looking it up, I believe the DPC18 I'm using is set for 99mph.
 
I think that answer is going to depend on what display you are using. Without looking it up, I believe the DPC18 I'm using is set for 99mph.

The bike will indeed have the DPC18. I know there is an advanced settings menu to change the speed limit. I have only seen that go as high as 40kph/25mph. So is it necessary to program the display instead of the motor? Or both?
 
The bike will indeed have the DPC18. I know there is an advanced settings menu to change the speed limit. I have only seen that go as high as 40kph/25mph. So is it necessary to program the display instead of the motor? Or both?
I don't have the specifics in front of me, and even if I did, you would likely forget my answer by time you get around to programming. Trust me. There's nothing to prevent the motor from going as fast as it's able anywhere in the programming.
 
The bike will indeed have the DPC18. I know there is an advanced settings menu to change the speed limit. I have only seen that go as high as 40kph/25mph. So is it necessary to program the display instead of the motor? Or both?
In the controller settings you can set the top speed to a specific number or to By Displays Command. If you set it to a number it will ignore what ever you set on the display.
 

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I don't have the specifics in front of me, and even if I did, you would likely forget my answer by time you get around to programming. Trust me. There's nothing to prevent the motor from going as fast as it's able anywhere in the programming.

I guess I'll just revisit this when the bike arrives. Thanks for the info 👍
 
Go to the link below and under the "Basics" tab, check out the comments regarding "Limit Current(%) and Limit Spd(%)".
Then, under the "Throttle Handle" tab, check out comments regarding "Speed Limited"


Reed, maybe you already know this, but that controller that WattWagons installs uses proprietary software for programming. Check it out! YOU will not be able to make configuration changes using the programming cable like you can using the stock controller (using open source software). You will likely end up paying somebody to make an update file that will include the changes that you want to make. I think it's a safe bet those are NOT going to be free.

Too, Penoff's software is top shelf, but it's geared to the BBSXX series of drives, which will work on the Ultras - but does not include the tab used to program the Ultra torque sensing. -Al
Latest Bafang Ultra software is here. Link is one paragraph down the test.
 
Let's see...
Frey AM1000 v5 (XL frame), 48V 21Ah battery, 27.5×2.8" Maxxis Rekon+ tires, 40-tooth front chainring, 11-to-42-tooth 11-speed rear cassette.

Used mostly on urban streets\lanes\paths, so far; though it's been very confident through the rough, what little it's seen yet! Climbs like a goat!

... For me, running "Slow-Start Mode (1-8)" at 7 instead of 5, helped soften takeoff greatly.

I upped the cutoff from 38 to 39 Volts because I'd rather not run my battery that low. (48V 21Ah)

My DPC18 display's speed limiter is set to 45 MPH so I don't lose power downhill; therefore the speed range affected by settings for _S0 is 0-to-7.5 MPH. ...
_S20 is 7.6-to-15 MPH,
_S40 is 15.1-to-22.5 MPH,
_S60 is 22.6-to-30 MPH,
_S80 is 30.1-to-37.5 MPH,
_S100 is 37.6-to-45 MPH.

(Note that these speed ranges are for pedal response only; the bike doesn't actually go 45 MPH on flat ground!
~28 on throttle, ~32 with my legs flailing.
I generally do 10-to-20 when tooling around, sticking to low assist except at hills.)

Combined with adjusting the keep, decay, & slow-start values, tweaking the torque sensing & PAS levels has increased the responsiveness of the m620 immeasurably.

It went from a nearly binary off/on jerk at takeoff, with no less than 25% power applied whenever the pedals turned... to a gentle takeoff, with power that scales by how hard I push. (Torque sensing that works; what a concept!)

Glad we got one of the UART configurable units before they're all sold out!

I'm hoping that aftermarket controllers continue to be available too. The core of the g510 motor itself looks nice to me. I like the look of just about everything but the pawl clutch.

Performance-wise, I'm happy with the responsiveness of the pedal assist so far; I can definitely get more power just by pushing harder, but I'm still tweaking for more gradual ramp at the speed\gear\modes I use most. The power is kinda crazy, right up to 25-or-28 MPH. Any faster than that, I'd need to change the gearing around:

With 40-tooth chainring up front, & a SRAM 11-speed cassette, 11-tooth-to-42-tooth rear end, the cadence gets too high for legs to add force, above 28 MPH or so.

I'm usually shifting two gears at a time. Even when skipping those gears, it's a lot of shifting just between takeoff & 15 MPH... & in lower assist modes, I find that it's rarely worth shifting until it's worth shifting several. Don't really need so many gears down low!

With 46-tooth chainring up front, & 11-tooth-to-48-tooth cassette in rear, the first gear would stay the same ratio, shift spacing expands a bit (fewer gearshifts between 0 & 15 MPH), & the ratio on last gear gains ... ¿15%?

Should get over 32 MPH easily, 34.5ish if I hustle; just from adding a few hundred watts of leg power, to a gear-range that's currently all motor.

46 front, 11-to-48 rear, should actually improve range, too: Currently, pedal cadence is too high to get much leg force above 22 MPH. Letting the legs do some real work with a lower cadence, adds power to hold speed using less motor assistance.

Win \ win?

... On the next bike. This one I plan to ride forever. Only definite changes right now, are desire for a 35° 110mm riser stem, & a seat shaped more like a bare T.

I honestly think most people replacing the stock m620's UART motor-controller, gave up on it too soon; the torque sensing after some studious tweaking, now feels so good I want to ride some other torque sensing bikes again to compare:

This feels beyond fine to me; this feels awesome.

I am interested to hear what anyone else thinks of this config. Too slow maybe? Still too much? Looking forward to suggestions & observations of what works on other builds \ use-cases!

Anyway, with a stock equipped Frey AM1000 v5, this is my preferred config so far:
 

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Note that Base Voltage should NEVER be left at 0 mV.

Bafang ships these motor controllers with the torque sensing uncalibrated.

The minimum value, at zero pedal force, which these torque sensors can output, is around 732 milliVolts.

Anything below 730 mV in the Base Voltage field, is wrong.
Far from a matter of preference, this is literally crippling the torque sensor:
Set at 0 mV, the first 20% of torque sensing range, is thrown in the garbage;
Under any pedal rotation at all, ~"12 Kg" of pedal force is detected!

Of course the torque sensing won't work well that way!

To fix this yourself:
•Get a reading from the "TqVoltate" field, with no force on the pedals.
•Add at least +1 or +2 to that value, & apply that total to the Base Voltage.
Congratulations! You have just calibrated the base Voltage of your torque sensor.

Setting the Base Voltage mV to 757 or just a bit higher, should prevent any baseline sensor jitter from being detected as pedal torque. (Unless your torque sensor is unusually erratic. If so, seek replacement as this is a safety issue!)
 
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