Any hub motor e-bike recs for my farm?

Matto

New Member
Hello! Thanks in advance for your advice. I'm looking for an e-bike for use at our steep farm as a quieter alternative to our gas UTV when not needing to haul or tow. I know a mid-drive will suit my needs but are there geared-hub motor models out there that fit the following bill:
  • Fat tire
  • Capable of throttle-only hill starts and ascents up to 15% and 3/8 mile dirt and grass trails, occasionally steeper at times.
  • Under $2,500
  • Range not a big factor, all rides less than 10 miles, most less than 5.
  • Pedaling will be limited.
Thanks again!
 
Not going to get brand specific. There's just too many variables. In my mind though, the winner here is going to be a geared rear hub with the biggest (highest wattage) motor. One other variable might be tire diameter. The smaller diameter (20-24") tires are going to provide additional leverage for the motor when compared to a 26" (all else being equal). The downside of smaller tires will be their ability to roll over rough terrain - like you might find riding across fields with no trail for instance.

The reason the mid drives might work out better is their advantage when it come to gearing. They can get away with a much smaller motor because of that.
 
Thank you for some great information. I don't want to start a debate but some model recommendations from those with experience in similar settings would be very helpful. I'd hate to fork out the money for one that sounds good on paper but can't actually do what I need it to. Thanks in advance, again.
 
Might help to know if you will be riding mostly single track trails on your property, or "cross country" through fields?
 
Mostly dirt or tall-mowed grass ridge roads/trails used by UTV and mid-sized tractor, but often steep. Occasional gravel roads, no pavement. Very little cross country use across tall vegetation. One bike under $2500 that comes to mind, outside mid-drive, is Ariel Class D. Looking for additional recommendations. Thanks!
 
OK, so you aren't thinking of a standard 26" bike then.

Are you OK doing any work that might be required on this new bike in person, or will you be relying on a bike shop/dealer?

Check out the Rad's. They have a couple that might interest you - including their new cargo bike.
You won't beat RAD from an available on line support standpoint
 
I'm OK with some work myself and not ruling out 26". Concern with the Rads was if they would have the torque needed on my hills for throttle-only starts and ascents.
 
Are you looking at the direct drive rear hub that comes with the 'City, or the gear driven rear hubs that come with the rest of the line up?
 
Really wasn't looking at any of the Rads as I had understood they were underpowered for my needs.
 
I'm not sure what you were looking at, but thinking there might be some confusion or bad info involved.

No, not the most powerful available, but I would not count them out completely....
 
15% grade isn't much. As for a throttle start, a lot will depend on how much you weigh and what other load you might be carrying. Between me and what I normally haul around, I put about 200 lbs on my Rad Rover and it will do what you're talking about.

I see what AHicks is saying about smaller tires, and that makes sense.

TT
 
Yes, for sure! The smaller tires will be an advantage, especially from a standing start!

Another thought. Throttle availability. Will the pedals have to be turning prior to the throttle being available? Some do. They don't allow the throttle to be used if the pedals haven't been turned, so it's not really available from the start. Silly logic behind that for me, but it makes sense to somebody....
 
Hello! Thanks in advance for your advice. I'm looking for an e-bike for use at our steep farm as a quieter alternative to our gas UTV when not needing to haul or tow. I know a mid-drive will suit my needs but are there geared-hub motor models out there that fit the following bill:
  • Fat tire
  • Capable of throttle-only hill starts and ascents up to 15% and 3/8 mile dirt and grass trails, occasionally steeper at times.
  • Under $2,500
  • Range not a big factor, all rides less than 10 miles, most less than 5.
  • Pedaling will be limited.
Thanks again!

Take a look at the EBR list of the Best Fat Tire bikes for 2020.


These are our recommendations on the best fat electric bikes of 2020. These top five fat ebikes offer the best combination of features and value today, but you can see all 129 of our detailed electric fat bike reviews listed here. Reviewing electric bikes is what we do, EBR has the industry’s most wide-ranging and impartial reviews. Since 2012, we’ve helped millions of people discover the best ebike for their needs and budget. Let’s go! Table of Contents:
Things to Consider:
  • Intended Use. Do you only want the rugged looks, comfort, and flexibility of an in-town fat ebike? In that case, a less powerful, heavier, cheaper model will do. However, if you plan to climb mountains, cross sandy beaches, or carry heavy loads, then you’ll want a more powerful motor, larger battery, and upgraded components. Look and pay for the things you will actually use.
  • Throttle. Depending on your location, throttles may or may not be allowed. Most North American countries allow them, while European countries do not. If you plan to ride on dry sand, packed snow, or soft damp forest trails, a throttle can help you start and balance more easily.
  • Motor. Think about the total combined weight of your body, bike, and cargo. Next, think about the terrain. Will you be riding off-road, navigating through soft terrain, or climbing steep mountains? Get the right type of motor with enough power to meet your needs. Motors can range from 250 to 750 watts depending on the laws where you live, I consider a 500 watt nominal motor to be very powerful. Mid-drive motors tend to be more efficient and make servicing the drivetrain and fixing flat tires easier. However, mid-drives usually cost more than hub motors, and rarely offer throttle operation.
  • Battery. Match the needs of your motor and type of riding with battery power and capacity. 36 volt battery systems are typical, but 48 volt batteries are efficient and improve power output. When sizing batteries, think about total weight, terrain, and distance. You want enough capacity to get there and back, even if it means buying a second battery. Fat ebikes are heavier, and the tires produce more drag, so it’s no fun if you run out of power and have to pedal back unassisted. Consider bringing a charger along, just in case you hit a detour or want to ride farther.
  • Brakes, Frame, and Suspension. Hydraulic brakes are easier to use but mechanical brakes cost less and are easier to adjust. Large disc brake rotors improve stopping power and maximize cooling. This is important as fat ebike wheels, tires, and frames are all bigger and weigh more. Planning to climb mountains, go off-road, or carry cargo? Then look for a stronger frame, nicer components, and perhaps a suspension fork and seatpost or full suspension.
  • Wheels and Tires. Larger wheels ride smoother, smaller are more maneuverable. Most full-sized electric fat bikes use 26″ wheels because the extra-wide tires add additional height to the wheel. You may see 20″ wheels with fat tires on folding fat ebikes. Select a tire size and tread that suits your terrain. Use knobby tires for climbing, smaller knobs or checkerboard for cross country, and lower tire pressure when riding on sand. For city use, consider smoother tires which are quieter and have less resistance.
 
I would strongly recommend keeping cost down by going with an older, used 26" hard tail (front suspension) bike and go with large knobby tires aka 2.25x26" and disc brakes. You can probably pick up a used bike on eBay for under $500 and add on a Bafang BBSHD (this is the better motor as far as reliability) but also at 1000W with tons of torque which will easily pull up steeper inclines. Paired with a 48V/13Ah battery for 10 mile rides should fill the bill. Bike and Bafang with battery will be under $2,000. This is not a geared hub setup but if you program the Bafang correctly with something like JPLabs el settings, you can get away with staying in one mid-range gear on your rear cassette and just use the thumb switch to shift between PAS levels. I chose the JPLabs setting because some of the other popular settings will tend to pull wheelies too easily. With JPLab settings, just press buttons to get more power while climbing. I use a 42T front chainring and 10 speed 11-34 rear cassette. Here is the scenario: when I get to an incline, I downshift the rear to a mid-gear and as I start climbing and the hill gets steeper, I do not downshift...I just increase the PAS level going from 3 to 4 to 5 to 6 and up. This is a sweet setup. I have this setup on my full suspension bike and recumbent trike now and riding them is really enjoyable. May not be what you listed as your requirements but definitely a doable and workable solution at a decent price.
 
Your post caught my eye, since it is similar to my situation. I live on a 50ac horse farm in VA. Have some low grade hills and originally wanted to stay around $2,500 for something to have fun around the farm on my woods trails and mowed grass fields. Would also use on our stone road that goes out to our paved neighborhood roads. Leaning towards the Biktrix ultra 1000 due to the mid-drive and probably put on the 27.5 3” tires. That will land me a little north of $2,700. Anyone have thoughts on this? I ride a mountain bike around property now and will probably just stick mostly to the PAS, but like that this one has the throttle if needed.
 
If you want it right away, go with the Wallke X3 for 1800 delivered next week and if you want to wait a bit, look at Sonders or Frey...


 
Just to be sure...I mention an older 26" bike because the bottom bracket is located up front more than the newer bikes. The BB0S2 or BBSHD can than be installed a little higher for ground clearancen as it will be raised a bit. Price will easily be under $2,000.
 
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