Ancheer Model 005637 no power at wheel
- Thread starter 5starguy
- Start date
harryS
Well-Known Member
Did it ever work, or did you buy it nonworking?
=Make sure neither of the brake levers are allowing the brake switches to engage. That will inhibit the motor.
-Has throttle ?. Three pins. Power-ground is 45V. Signal shoiild vary from 0V to 4V when throttle is turned.
-Has pedal sensor? Three pins. Power-ground is 5V, Signal will vary beiween 0V and 5V as pedals rotate. Make sure magnet disk is close to sensor.
=Make sure neither of the brake levers are allowing the brake switches to engage. That will inhibit the motor.
-Has throttle ?. Three pins. Power-ground is 45V. Signal shoiild vary from 0V to 4V when throttle is turned.
-Has pedal sensor? Three pins. Power-ground is 5V, Signal will vary beiween 0V and 5V as pedals rotate. Make sure magnet disk is close to sensor.
Will try all suggestions, delayed because I could not find your suggestions, sorry for the delay, first post ever and first ebike ever. I did buy the bike used and not working. Have volt/ohm meter and some Elec. knowledge. Yes has throttle but will have to find where to test the 0V to4V circuit. Have never worked on an Ebike before. Would you know where I could find a schematic and a troubleshooting manual for this Ancheer AMA005637? That would help a lot, thanks for your most welcome effort.
harryS
Well-Known Member
Have you downloaded the user manual?
These basic ebikes are very similar anf will have the following schematic.
The controllers all have similar connection categories>
1. Motor is three phase wires and 5-6 sensor wires, Either done with 8-9 discrete wires or a 9 oin molded cable,
2. Brakes are two sets of double wires, The brake switch is on/off, normally off when brakes not engage,
3. Throttle in your case should be 3 wires. It uses a rotating magnet in the throttle and a magnetic sensor chip, Powered by 4.5V and output goes to 4V at full throttle,
4. Pedal Cadence senor has a disk with 6-12 magnets that spin past another magnetic sensor, Powered by 5 volts, the output flips between 0 and 5V as the magnets pass by.
5. LED display, This runs on 36V battery power. It has 4-5 leads. Two arepower and groumd When you turn it on, it raises a third lead to battery level, which is used to power up the controller. The four lead models use a discrete DC voltage levels on the last wire, to signal the controller what power level is applied. The five lead models are much more sophistiocated as they will send serial data back and forth on the two remaining leads.
Why do ebikes not work?A lot of idiots will sit on the throttle on a low powered ebike like the Ancheers and melt the controller wires, overheat the motor, or fry the Mosfets in the controller.
This is typical of what;s used in $700 ebikes like the Ancheer. Tell us what your controller looks like,
These basic ebikes are very similar anf will have the following schematic.
The controllers all have similar connection categories>
1. Motor is three phase wires and 5-6 sensor wires, Either done with 8-9 discrete wires or a 9 oin molded cable,
2. Brakes are two sets of double wires, The brake switch is on/off, normally off when brakes not engage,
3. Throttle in your case should be 3 wires. It uses a rotating magnet in the throttle and a magnetic sensor chip, Powered by 4.5V and output goes to 4V at full throttle,
4. Pedal Cadence senor has a disk with 6-12 magnets that spin past another magnetic sensor, Powered by 5 volts, the output flips between 0 and 5V as the magnets pass by.
5. LED display, This runs on 36V battery power. It has 4-5 leads. Two arepower and groumd When you turn it on, it raises a third lead to battery level, which is used to power up the controller. The four lead models use a discrete DC voltage levels on the last wire, to signal the controller what power level is applied. The five lead models are much more sophistiocated as they will send serial data back and forth on the two remaining leads.
Why do ebikes not work?A lot of idiots will sit on the throttle on a low powered ebike like the Ancheers and melt the controller wires, overheat the motor, or fry the Mosfets in the controller.
This is typical of what;s used in $700 ebikes like the Ancheer. Tell us what your controller looks like,
A very big Thanks to Harry S's response above. Bought an Ancheer 5637 36 volt model used not working. 41.9 v output from Batt. All (5) assist lights on when pressed; brakes are not the issue as ohm meter shows break in circuit when either brake handled is retracted. How to check the voltages for throttle, motor, Pas, etc.? Can one buy an insert between wire connectors, so circuit is not interrupted but has side "windows" for testing? That's the best I can come up with. Or else how to measure voltages? As older guy, I have some experience with old tube TV's using a schematic and plenty of places to check voltages, etc. Very capable to change mechanical/electrical parts, so feel pretty helpless. Any help would be greatly appreciated. E.g., up to date books, articles, etc. describing troubleshooting techniques. Thanks to all.
Just saw your response with schematic; and downloaded the manual. Would really love to find which of your damage suggestions or how many of the problems this bike actually has. I enjoy working on it and would like some day to ride it! Just can't measure much electrically as I must be missing something. Thanks again.
Just saw your most welcome response with schematic; and downloaded the manual. Would really love to find which of your damage suggestions or how many of the problems this bike actually has. I enjoy working on it and would like some day to ride it! Just can't measure much electrically as I must be missing something. Controller sits under the battery, sort of, and after opening, found only black covered sets of wires going various places. Nothing like the picture of colored wires exiting the controller. That keeps me from testing. No color wires anywhere. Thanks again
harryS
Well-Known Member
You never mentioned what kind of connectors on the Ancheer controller. Whther it has the flat or molder connectors. The latter are difficult to access.
If you have the cheaper ones on the left, which I would expect on an Ancheer, you could stick pins into the back of each connector to reach the contacts.
Follow the motor cable to the controller. It should break down to three thick wires with bullet connections, and five or six thinner wires in a rectangular connection.
Unplug it, power up the controller and see if you have 5 volts across the red/black wires in the rectangular connector. That will tell you the controller has internla 5V power. It uses this to run the throttle and pedal sensors as well as the wheel sensors.
Now that you've identified the motor connector, you could plug it back togther and test the sensors, Tou'll be checking the blue, yellow, and green wirs vs grYund (black) on the connector.
Justin at Grin Ebikes has a page on how to test this. His connector is different from mine, but it may be what you have,
.
f
If you have the cheaper ones on the left, which I would expect on an Ancheer, you could stick pins into the back of each connector to reach the contacts.
Follow the motor cable to the controller. It should break down to three thick wires with bullet connections, and five or six thinner wires in a rectangular connection.
Unplug it, power up the controller and see if you have 5 volts across the red/black wires in the rectangular connector. That will tell you the controller has internla 5V power. It uses this to run the throttle and pedal sensors as well as the wheel sensors.
Now that you've identified the motor connector, you could plug it back togther and test the sensors, Tou'll be checking the blue, yellow, and green wirs vs grYund (black) on the connector.
Justin at Grin Ebikes has a page on how to test this. His connector is different from mine, but it may be what you have,
.
f
PedalUma
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
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- Petaluma, CA
It is a total waste of time and effort. It is a crapper bike that could likely cause a catastrophic fire. Run away. Now. Do not mess with this. Yank the battery and put it at least three feet underground for at least two years. Junk the rest.
Thanks for the good advice, these batteries can be very dangerous. You are right. But I want to learn how to fix them and what better way than to get one that is not running, needs work and can help teach me what mess-up creates what issue. I've read another blog about how to charge batteries properly and will definitely follow those directions! You are very thoughtful to help me not burn up "my" house (just rent). So thanks, in the end you may be predicting the future (me burying the battery).
Thanks again, you have given me the direction to begin to figure out what is going on with the Ancheer. I will follow point by point and figured I needed to use pins to measure the circuits. And thanks for the referral, that will help as well. I now have some clout to continue my quest to master this mere Ancheer. I'll write what happens soon. PS: the connectors are molder? type, round waterproof and look a little like the wires are swollen and the controller on the right looks like the one with those wires (all black). Thanks for your excellent assist.
harryS
Well-Known Member
Round molded connectors require a DIY mentality, You can figure out that yourself, I will leave you this diagram for the 9pin motor connector if you have one. First. make sure it's seated properly. It's keyed, but some people have ,anaged to force them in backward and fry the controller. You can at least test for 5 vlt power easily.
No one is talking about the battery. They are not worth the repair costs.
You want to see if the controller is powering up. You want to verify that the motor doesn't have burnt out wiring or dead sensors,
You can buy an Ancheer controller with display for 90 bucks, or you might buy a better third party display/controller for the same.
No one is talking about the battery. They are not worth the repair costs.
You want to see if the controller is powering up. You want to verify that the motor doesn't have burnt out wiring or dead sensors,
You can buy an Ancheer controller with display for 90 bucks, or you might buy a better third party display/controller for the same.
Harry your directions are great, and I admire your positive belief that someone can tackle a used-up Ancheer and bring it back to life. I will be that person even though so many other life exigencies take my time and attention. The motor was what I was thinking had to be checked out as I read it could fry the controller, so that's what I will tackle next. Thanks to you I have the information I need to start that and will report back soon. I am a self-appointed electrical detective worthy of at least a 2 second walk-on in a Sherlock Holmes movie (LOL).
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