Ancheer died

[TSummerfield]

My Ancheer 26" Power Plus died on me after riding up a long grade. Just quit the electric propulsion, but the display remained lit like normal. No throttle or pedal assist.
I tried a new controller to no avail. Can anyone help me diagnose this problem?

 

[soyabean]

My Ancheer 26" Power Plus died on me after riding up a long grade.

The answer is in the question.

This is happening to a lot of "used ebikes for sale" out there. The owners burn them out (overheat, welded, shot nylon gears), lie that it needs a new battery, and try to pass off the problem to the next sucker.

 

[fooferdoggie]

sounds like you toasted the motor.

 

[john peck]

My Ancheer 26" Power Plus died on me after riding up a long grade. Just quit the electric propulsion, but the display remained lit like normal. No throttle or pedal assist.
I tried a new controller to no avail. Can anyone help me diagnose this problem?

RIP, get a better bike.

 

[steve mercier]

My Ancheer 26" Power Plus died on me after riding up a long grade. Just quit the electric propulsion, but the display remained lit like normal. No throttle or pedal assist.
I tried a new controller to no avail. Can anyone help me diagnose this problem?

Chalk it up to experience and now I am sure your next bike will be a good one as you will choose more wisely. My first Ebike was a junker but it gave me the Ebike bug.

 

[DaveMatthews]

Is there a fuse anywhere?

 

[chunk]

I'm new to everything e-bike, but I'm surprised that the motor isn't thermally protected. But perhaps not.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I'm new to everything e-bike, but I'm surprised that the motor isn't thermally protected. But perhaps not.

at that price range they use rubber bands for protection

 

[harryS]

If that is a geared motor, see if you can turn the wheel by hand backwards. If you shorted out one motor wire to another wire from the wires getting hot, it will be very hard to turn.

 

[harryS]

A few years ago, there was some guy here that wanted to start a bike review site, with numbers, data, etc, ala consumer reports. He reviewed his own two bikes, and then Court gave him a Ancheer to test. He burned it up going up a hill. I guess that was the end of free loaners.

 

[fooferdoggie]

rubber bands where? for thermal protection?

its a joke.

 

[harryS]

A few years ago, there was some guy here that wanted to start a bike review site, with numbers, data, etc, ala consumer reports. He reviewed his own two bikes, and then Court gave him a Ancheer to test. He burned it up..

Well I'll be. They discuss this in the above review that Timpo showed us, Well, sure, if I didn't own my bikes, I could flog them up a hill on throttle only till they burned up too.

 

[john peck]

Ancheer must have used really cheap motor? Though it's completely understandable for that price range.
It's a 36V 250W bike, I can't imagine motor was exposed to much electricity.

It says, "MOTOR BRAND: Generic Unbranded"

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Parts is parts....so not a complete waste of money. Don´t feel too bad T; I´m sure I´ve thrown away a lot more
money on pointless purchases.

 

[harryS]

If you burned it up, you can buy a 500W motor on amazon for $125. Spokes will cost you about $25. if you put it into the Ancheer rim. Takes some experience to measure/order them and also to spoke the wheel, but it's not that hard.

 

[TSummerfield]

Thank you for your input. The motor turns backwards OK, albeit with some resistance. Does it have to be powered up to perform this test? How do I test continuity of the windings?
I too suspect the motor is fried, but I'd like to be sure before throwing money and time into it. With regards to getting a different motor (500w), then I'd need a different controller and it all wouldn't be plug and play, I suspect. I'm not sure I could figure out the wiring in that case. Lacing in the spokes sounds like a pain, I'd think a new wheel/motor assembly may be the way to go. I may just buy a parts bike, there should be some around, as I imagine a ton of these were sold.

With regards to the quality of the Ancheer in general, I'd give it high marks and would recommend one to a friend. It has served me well for a couple of years and several thousand miles. I happen to live on top of a mesa in Arizona where at the end of each ride I have to climb up a 3/4 mile long hill that gains several hundred feet of elevation. There are 3 stretches of a couple hundred yards each of 15 degrees. I think considering this, that little 250 watt hub motor acquitted itself quite well. BTW, I also have a Giant Explore 500w mid-motor ebike which is of course better suited to this mountainous terrain, but I dearly love both bikes, they each have their own endearing qualities. I think it is unfair to put down a bike just because it's cheap. Unless there are cheap ebikes out there, a lot of folks will miss out on the joy that an ebike can elicit.

 

[harryS]

If your motor has a round 9 pin quick disconnect, it's plug/play if the controller works.

The motor in reverse test is just a quick check for either a shorted out transistor in the controller or a shorted phase wire. You might try it again with power on. You should feel the gears turning normally when turning backward. When I have purposely shorted a phase and tried this, it's like the wheel is locked.

EDIT: Does the Ancheer have a walk mode. See if that doesn't work too.

There's not much more you can do without pulling out a voltmeter and an ebike testor and checking signals. Or if you knew someone with another hubmotor bike, you hook one motor up to the other bike, which is easy if they have the 9 pin connector,

SInce you have another ebike to ride, you could order an ebike tester, something like this, but it takes some experience to hook them up. They will check if your motor sensors are still working. They will even give you an idea if the controller is sequencing. However, if your bike has a 9 pin connector, then you have to buy one of those too, and cut it open so you can get the alligator clips on the leads.

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This, by the way, is the nine pin connector most smaller motors use. Male and female sides.

Tell us if your ANcheer has one of these connectors coming off the motor.

 

[TSummerfield]

Thank you Harry for your considered reply. No, unfortunately, the bike doesn't have a 9-pin disconnect, or any disconnect for that matter.
I'm pretty sure the motor is fried, the windings are black. With my limited skills, I think the best course of action will be to keep on the lookout for a parts bike.

 

[TSummerfield]

No walk mode.

 

[TSummerfield]

I checked for continuity between the phase wires and the hub of the motor. On each on, blue, green and yellow, there was continuity (a short?) for approximately one third of the wheel rotation. Surely that can't be right?

 

[harryS]

The three thick wires, yellow, blue, green. Those are the phase leads that cause the motor to turn. Constant continuity, regardless of wheel position. This measurement done without the controller attached, If you touch two of the phase wires together, while turning the motor backward, you would see that braking motion I mentioned.

The thin red/black are power/ground, which is 5V. The three thin wires, blue, green, yellow, are sensor outputs. They will flip between 5V and 0V as the wheel is turned backward., probably 20 to 40 times in a revolution, but all you need to see is one flip for each color. If there is a white wire, that is a speed sensor, and that will flip once per revolution for most wheels. If you see all of this activity, the sensors are good. You will have your meter in voltage mode, with the black probe on the black wire and the red probe on one of the colored wires. All of this discussed in many youtube videos.