Adjust Peddling To Speed Ratio

[tecmic]

I recently bought a high spec MTB. Ok, it's built for mountain track riding but I mostly do track and roadwork. I'd like to adjust the gearing so that I'm not peddling like a mad thing at 15.3 mph in top gear (it has 12 gears and pulls like a diesel engine in ETMB in the lower gears) From what I can figure, increasing the teeth on the Crankset will go some way to achieve this.... can anyone advise?

Before you tell me I should have bought a road bike, I understood this was built for mountain track work but fell for it when I saw it! As I become more proficient in controlling this machine I don't rule out getting more into rough riding!

 

[rich c]

Chainring makes the biggest difference. Minor changes with the cassette, big changes with the chainring.

 

[Lightning P38]

Yes, putting a bigger gear on the crank is what you will want. Some guys switch out the front depending on what season it is and where they might be riding...trail vs. road.

 

[Sierratim]

What model bike and what gearing (chain rings and cassette) do you have now?

 

[Nova Haibike]

Yup, need to know the make and model of the bike. It probably has a direct mount chainring. You might be limited in the size you can fit, or even stuck with what is fitted. It really depends on the clearance between the ring and the frame's chainstay.

 

[tecmic]

It's a 2020 Cube Stereo Hybrid 160 HPC SL 625 27.5 MTB. While I previously had a Carrera for several years, the Cube is something else! I'm out of touch, please confirm.... what the chain rings and cassette you reference are?

Here's what the tech spec says: Crankset: ACID E Crank 36T. Gearshift: SRAM NX Eagle 12 speed. Chainring 36T. Cassette: Sram PG-1210 Eagle II-50T. Gears: 12

 

[tecmic]

So I'm guessing the Crankset is the Crank wheel and its associated components and the Chainset is the chain, the Cassette is the gear set on the rear wheel hub.

 

[Nova Haibike]

From what I gather, the largest chainring made for the Gen-4 motor is 38T. Assuming you pedal at 90 rpm, you would see an extra 1 mph.

You cannot go smaller in the back unless you converted the wheel to an XD Driver cassette body. But your bike has a Shimano hub, so you would have to have a different hub laced in, or you would have to buy a different rear wheel. Anyway, with an XD Driver body, you could drop down to a 10T cog. Running both a 38T ring and 10T cog would see a speed difference at 90 RPM of 4 mph.

EDIT: at 15.3 mph in a 36 x 11, you are only turning the crank at roughly 55 rpm. I would not call that pedaling like mad. Regardless, with a 38 x 10, at the same speed your cadence would drop to about 47 rpm.

 

[tecmic]

Ok, I exaggerated somewhat, but that's still a relatively fast peddle for top gear (not for a MTB designed for mountain tracks though...aye?) In any case, 90 RPM for an extra 4 mph totally defeats my objective and what you're outlining is beyond the expense I was anticipating, on top of the bike purchase! So I guess I'll persevere and enjoy the bike's features as they stand.
Thanks for your help, much appreciated.
Mike.