Accessories for your XP

I ordered my bikes in May and am waiting on delivery. I just emailed Lectric and asked for the discount to be applied and I received a reply with in an hour approving the discount.
 
MY CHANGES

Thanks to all of the fine suggestions I found here and on YouTube, I now have my Lectric XP in comfortable shape for travel.
-Changed the handlebar to one that has the handgrips angled back about 35 degrees (Andros Bar, TRN-0006)
-Changed the handgrips to a softer feel (Marque MHG-02)
-Added a bell for gentle warning to others (Leichten, B08D79V1GD)
-Added a rearview mirror on the left end (Hafny MR083)
-Added toe clips to the pedals (Zefal, Christophe), but in order to do this I had to switch to a non-folding pedal. I like knowing exactly where to place my feet on the pedals for best effort.
-I had received the larger seat and shock absorbing seatpost with my order (Happy Thanksgiving 2020!) I also got the panniers, but I did NOT like the straps for connecting them.
-When I got my rear bag (Ywduoying, B08NFC2HSF), I found the attached panniers too small to be useful. So, I cut the strap attachments off the Lectric pannier bag, laid it on the rear rack and cut some judicious holes through which the rear bag straps would pass & attach the combination to the rear rack.
-I bought the CAOMM 48V 20AH extra battery and electrical parts to wire it up in parallel. The battery fits nicely in the bottom of the rear bag, and doesn't seem to heat up as I am running both batteries at the same time. Now for some long trips!

 

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I like the small curved sections of rim tape because you can space them out in a pattern around the rim as opposed to a continuous stripe all the way around. Spacing out rim tape adds contrast. Looks cooler when moving if that's important to you.
 
Thought I'd mention this as a possible accessory. I haven't bought it, so take this with a pile of salt. A 31.8mm steel seat post, so it shouldn't need a shim or be at all loose, and should be quite strong. For seats that have a post clamp, not ones that can only attach by their rails. Just 250mm long, though, not for the tall folks. $15 on Amazon.

Fenix Cycles Steel Bicycle Seat Post, 31.8mm, (Black)
 
how’d this work out? very interested in a BMX handlebar but still preserving the folding stem. most of the BmX mods seem to adopt a new head eliminating the fold ability. i’m 6’4” so i want the height f the adjustable stem but also the portability of it being foldable as an apartment dweller with limited storage options.
It worked great!
 
Wristwatch for your XP plus a "fake wrist" to mount it with.

I wanted a clock for my XP, ordered one designed to mount on a bike, wasn't really impressed with it in real life. Really wanted to put a cheap Casio F91W but they're backordered and I didn't want to wait.

Besides, how would you mount a wristwatch on a bike?

With a rubber fake wrist that goes on the handlebars. Held in place with cable ties, but putting the watch on nice and snug really clamps it down.

Got a cheap water-resistant watch with big digits for us old coots. It also has a cool backlight mode. It'll live on the bike.

The fake wrist is also a handy place to store your watch while riding. And it's easy to swap on a different watch for whenever Lectric sells a branded one.

Works great. Just wish there was a smidge more room on the handlebars so it could sit completely straight and level.

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Wristwatch for your XP plus a "fake wrist" to mount it with.

I wanted a clock for my XP, ordered one designed to mount on a bike, wasn't really impressed with it in real life. Really wanted to put a cheap Casio F91W but they're backordered and I didn't want to wait.

Besides, how would you mount a wristwatch on a bike?

With a rubber fake wrist that goes on the handlebars. Held in place with cable ties, but putting the watch on nice and snug really clamps it down.

Got a cheap water-resistant watch with big digits for us old coots. It also has a cool backlight mode. It'll live on the bike.

The fake wrist is also a handy place to store your watch while riding. And it's easy to swap on a different watch for whenever Lectric sells a branded one.

Works great. Just wish there was a smidge more room on the handlebars so it could sit completely straight and level.

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i was expecting to see a mannequin wrist by the time i scrolled to the pics…
 
I have the 2.0 and would love to change the pedals to a bigger size. Is there a consensus to which are worth it to change to? Thanks for the help/direction!
 
I have the 2.0 and would love to change the pedals to a bigger size. Is there a consensus to which are worth it to change to? Thanks for the help/direction!
do you require them to be removable or foldable?
have you used pedals in the past you prefer?
are you seeking MTB type pedal or road type pedals?
any other requirements besides being larger?
 
thanks for the great questions. i have no preference for pedals, i ride on the sidewalk and i just really wanted bigger pedals BUT how much will it affect the footprint I figure a few inches but in real world examples i cannot picture what that would put a hinder. would the bike still fit in a small suv/crossover if the pedal do not fold? that kind of thing.

i found these that i thought "might" work but its a shot in the dark https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZBZPRN5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks!!
 
i have on order Rockbros quick disconnect pedals (from Aliexpress) which completely remove rather than fold. i agree the folding ones are a little smaller when unfolded than ideal (i have a size 14 shoe)

wider would likely be sacrificing removability as i think most folding/removable are made with compactness in mind.

most standard MTB pedals will tend to be larger in width and length than their folding/removable counterparts.

it can help to just check out bikes around town at bike racks etc snd get a visual idea if what’s out there and compare sizes so you know what to google for.
 
Wald 8038GB City steel handlebars. 30" wide with 5" rise. Gloss black. Made in Kentucky, USA. $24 on Amazon but currently sold out, avaiable on eBay for a few bucks more.

Grips are old-school ODI Longnecks, 135mm black, $12 on Amazon. Used some high-alcohol hand sanitizer to help slide them on, it worked great and dried overnight.

I really like these handlebars, they provide a much more natural riding position, I feel more balanced and in control of the bike, can see better, and don't lean on my palms. Plus they give the bike a nice cruiser look.

They are much wider than the original 25" bars, but still allow full turns and folding without any of the cables binding up.

Pretty straightforward to put on. Loosening all the things attached to the original handlebars took the most time. Pretty much every single gadget needed a different size metric Allen wrench or screwdriver. Then breaking loose the bolts on the handlebar clamp took some effort, there was a lot of "blue" locktight on them, which is good. After that, it was just feeding all of the gadgets onto the Wald handlebars in the correct order, loosely clamping the bars down, getting everything positioned as I liked it, and tightening it all down. Maybe 45 minutes to do the swap all told.

Notes:
  • The cable from the display to the control pod is pretty short and doesn't reach all the way to the Wald's left grip. So I attached the pod to the left riser. Not ideal, but it works. I don't futz with the pod much while riding.
  • It was much easier to remove the mounting screws from the display and pod and pop their clamps off the original handlebars and onto the Wald bars rather than try to slide them off and on.
  • I didn't cut down the right grip to account for the throttle. I might at some point, but for now it works fine and doesn't feel weird at all. Having full grips on both sides is nice.
  • There isn't a lot of extra play in the cables left for raising the handlebars much beyond the minimum height, but with the 5" rise, they feel about right anyway.
 

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Wald 8038GB City steel handlebars. 30" wide with 5" rise. Gloss black. Made in Kentucky, USA. $24 on Amazon but currently sold out, avaiable on eBay for a few bucks more.

Grips are old-school ODI Longnecks, 135mm black, $12 on Amazon. Used some high-alcohol hand sanitizer to help slide them on, it worked great and dried overnight.

I really like these handlebars, they provide a much more natural riding position, I feel more balanced and in control of the bike, can see better, and don't lean on my palms. Plus they give the bike a nice cruiser look.

They are much wider than the original 25" bars, but still allow full turns and folding without any of the cables binding up.

Pretty straightforward to put on. Loosening all the things attached to the original handlebars took the most time. Pretty much every single gadget needed a different size metric Allen wrench or screwdriver. Then breaking loose the bolts on the handlebar clamp took some effort, there was a lot of "blue" locktight on them, which is good. After that, it was just feeding all of the gadgets onto the Wald handlebars in the correct order, loosely clamping the bars down, getting everything positioned as I liked it, and tightening it all down. Maybe 45 minutes to do the swap all told.

Notes:
  • The cable from the display to the control pod is pretty short and doesn't reach all the way to the Wald's left grip. So I attached the pod to the left riser. Not ideal, but it works. I don't futz with the pod much while riding.
  • It was much easier to remove the mounting screws from the display and pod and pop their clamps off the original handlebars and onto the Wald bars rather than try to slide them off and on.
  • I didn't cut down the right grip to account for the throttle. I might at some point, but for now it works fine and doesn't feel weird at all. Having full grips on both sides is nice.
  • There isn't a lot of extra play in the cables left for raising the handlebars much beyond the minimum height, but with the 5" rise, they feel about right anyway.
Looks sweet. I am in a lot of pain in my hands and neck from my setup with the 2.0 how is your handle bars working out? Also, you can obviously cut these grips to fit the side with the throttle. ez to fit? are they thing grips? i cannot stand stock grips they are hurting me :(
 
Looks sweet. I am in a lot of pain in my hands and neck from my setup with the 2.0 how is your handle bars working out? Also, you can obviously cut these grips to fit the side with the throttle. ez to fit? are they thing grips? i cannot stand stock grips they are hurting me :(

Still very happy with these handlebars. The pain I was feeling in my hands and shoulders is gone, probably because I'm not leaning forward on my hands anymore. The handlebars are strong and don't flex.

I like the grips a lot, but I'm very used to them, as they're the same kind I had on my bikes when I was a kid. They're soft and provide good grip even when sweaty. But they are thin, and don't provide a lot of support. It would be very easy to cut the right grip down to account for the throttle, but I'm still pretty happy with having a full grip. I don't really notice that the throttle, shifter, and back brake lever are moved a little to the left. The grips were simple to put on, with some alcohol between them and the bars, they just slid right on, and were still easy to adjust for a couple of hours. By the next morning, they didn't move at all. I think I literally spent more time getting the grips out of their packaging than installing them.
 
Still very happy with these handlebars. The pain I was feeling in my hands and shoulders is gone, probably because I'm not leaning forward on my hands anymore. The handlebars are strong and don't flex.

I like the grips a lot, but I'm very used to them, as they're the same kind I had on my bikes when I was a kid. They're soft and provide good grip even when sweaty. But they are thin, and don't provide a lot of support. It would be very easy to cut the right grip down to account for the throttle, but I'm still pretty happy with having a full grip. I don't really notice that the throttle, shifter, and back brake lever are moved a little to the left. The grips were simple to put on, with some alcohol between them and the bars, they just slid right on, and were still easy to adjust for a couple of hours. By the next morning, they didn't move at all. I think I literally spent more time getting the grips out of their packaging than installing them.
you are awesome thanks so much for the feedback. I bought the grips and will start there. If I get the courage up to try and replace the handle bars I might try one day when they are back in stock or pay someone.

hey one more question is there a way to move the break levers higher on the stock handlebars or are they stuck in the position they come in?

Also here is my bike so far.
 

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you are awesome thanks so much for the feedback. I bought the grips and will start there. If I get the courage up to try and replace the handle bars I might try one day when they are back in stock or pay someone.

hey one more question is there a way to move the break levers higher on the stock handlebars or are they stuck in the position they come in?

Also here is my bike so far.

Wow, that wrap is really cool! Did you make it with individual stickers?

The brake levers can be moved. They are clamped to the handlebars, and if you loosen their clamps they're pretty easy to slide and tilt. If you look at the underside of the brake lever housing, there's a hexagonal hole just in front of the handlebars. This is the head of the bolt that holds the clamp snug, and on my bike it can be loosened with a 5mm Allen wrench (aka hex key). It'll be pretty tight, so as to make sure that the brake levers won't slip around during a hard stop. Loosen the bolt, adjust the lever positions to where you want them, tighten the bolt back down. You'll then want to make sure that the brake cables (and motor cut-off wires) can still move freely and don't bind when you turn the handlebars all the way to the left and to the right and when you fold them down.

If you don't have a set of metric Allen wrenches yet, they're pretty much essential for working on an XP. You'll want to get a set that has at least the 4, 5, 6, and 8mm sizes.

_a_l_allen-wrench-2.jpg
 
Wow, that wrap is really cool! Did you make it with individual stickers?

The brake levers can be moved. They are clamped to the handlebars, and if you loosen their clamps they're pretty easy to slide and tilt. If you look at the underside of the brake lever housing, there's a hexagonal hole just in front of the handlebars. This is the head of the bolt that holds the clamp snug, and on my bike it can be loosened with a 5mm Allen wrench (aka hex key). It'll be pretty tight, so as to make sure that the brake levers won't slip around during a hard stop. Loosen the bolt, adjust the lever positions to where you want them, tighten the bolt back down. You'll then want to make sure that the brake cables (and motor cut-off wires) can still move freely and don't bind when you turn the handlebars all the way to the left and to the right and when you fold them down.

If you don't have a set of metric Allen wrenches yet, they're pretty much essential for working on an XP. You'll want to get a set that has at least the 4, 5, 6, and 8mm sizes.

_a_l_allen-wrench-2.jpg
Thanks! Yeah, it is individual stickers I got off amazon. it was fun putting the stickers on. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZDJB8ZT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I did have to glue some down that didnt stick after a few rides and I sprayed clear coat on them as well.

Yes, thanks I was able to move the levers :) EZ! The grips are GREAT, thanks for the reco they are perfect.
 
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