replace torque sensor bearings?

spokewrench

Active Member
Region
USA
After 150 miles, my Aventon Abound began making a brushing noise each time the right pedal passed 5 o-clock. Nothing rubbed when I hand cranked, and I saw that everything was clear when I removed the chain guard. I changed pedals and changed shoes. It didn’t help.

It was coming from the inside, where the bottom bracket was a torque sensor, and 5 o’clock was when the torque relaxed. If I extended the torque by using my foot to pull the right pedal through bottom dead center or by starting to push the left pedal before top dead center, there was no noise.

It was getting worse and I didn’t know much about bottom bracket torque sensors. If it had happened to me in 150 miles, and the model had been sold for a year or so, I figured it had happened to others. I contacted Support for advice.

When I registered, I used the same email address I’d used to order the bike. They had the purchase information on record but required me to provide it again. They said the purpose of registration was to streamline support requests. I used the same email address to contact Support, but they demanded all my purchase information again. They went further, demanding a clear photo of the serial number.

There was no reason for this except harassment. It entailed removing my mirror and horn and moving my gearshift, control pad, and display in order to turn the bike over to try to get a clear photo of what was an irregularity in the thick, glossy enamel.

They also demanded a photo of the problem. I submitted the serial number photo and reminded them that I’d said no cause for the noise was visible. They demanded a video. I said my snapshot camera would make videos but without audio. I said it would be dangerous to ride while using the camera with one hand, and the resulting video would reveal nothing.

They said they would have to see the sound to diagnose it, and if I would not submit a video, I would have to go to a dealer. The only dealer in 50 miles is accessible over 14 miles of narrow, busy highways. I don't have a car, and the bike wouldn't fit in a car anyway. It’s as if I’ve interfaced with a Communist Chinese AI bot who hasn’t learned that you can't see noise or that when you’re told nothing is visible, that means nothing will appear in a photo. It seems as if Aventon’s two-year warranty means that for two years their AI bot will tell you to go to hell.

That was Thursday. Friday, the noise was so loud that I felt like a steam locomotive, chuffing along. On the other side of a wide street, a man was walking his dog 100 yards ahead. He turned around and stood staring. Saturday there was an additional chuff, at 1 o’clock. That’s where the right bearing takes on its load, and 5 o’clock is where it’s released.

Sunday, the noises were miraculously gone. They were still gone Monday but back Tuesday. Now I understood. It’s a lube problem. A warm front had come in on Saturday. Sunday and Monday, the temperature had been around 60 for the first time in weeks. The right bearing takes twice the load of the left and, under a load, a ball bearing squeezes some lube away from the race. The lube is supposed to flow back fast enough to maintain a good film, but it was too viscous below 60 F, allowing the loaded side of the race to run dry. Just as the pressure was lifted, the dry balls would be loose enough to make noise.

The bottom bracket was at 40 when I got the bike out of the garage Wednesday. I kept warming it with a heat gun and taking a short test ride. When the temperature held at 62, the noise went away and didn’t return.

It was cold in December and January, and I rode every day with no noise. That means something has happened to the lube in the sealed bearings. If they lasted only two months, they must be of poor quality, like the tire that lasted a week.

Is it possible to fit an Aventon bottom bracket torque sensor with better bearings?
 
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After 150 miles, my Aventon Abound began making a brushing noise I figured it had happened to others. I contacted Support for advice.
When I registered, I used the same email address I’d used to order the bike. They had the purchase information on record but required me to provide it again. They said the purpose of registration was to streamline support requests. I used the same email address to contact Support, but they demanded all my purchase information again. They went further, demanding a clear photo of the serial number.
There was no reason for this except harassment. It entailed removing my mirror and horn and moving my gearshift, control pad, and display in order to turn the bike over to try to get a clear photo of what was an irregularity in the thick, glossy enamel.
They also demanded a photo of the problem. I submitted the serial number photo and reminded them that I’d said no cause for the noise was visible. They demanded a video. I said my snapshot camera would make videos but without audio. I said it would be dangerous to ride while using the camera with one hand, and the resulting video would reveal nothing.
They said they would have to see the sound to diagnose it, and if I would not submit a video, I would have to go to a dealer. The only dealer in 50 miles is accessible over 14 miles of narrow, busy highways. I don't have a car, and the bike wouldn't fit in a car anyway. It’s as if I’ve interfaced with a Communist Chinese AI bot who hasn’t learned that you can't see noise or that when you’re told nothing is visible, that means nothing will appear in a photo. It seems as if Aventon’s two-year warranty means that for two years their AI bot will tell you to go to hell.
I have no way to email photos or take videos. Would require a lot of expensive garbage from China. I will never spend a dime with Aventon. Sleazeball vendors read the forums about how you destroyed your reputation.
I would buy a shaft torque sensor with the same connector off ebay or amazon. Then replace it. You will need a crank arm puller. If the bearings have a standard number or standard dimension you might be able to buy real ones (US, Ger, TWA, Arg) from an industrial supply. I put BSC bearings made in Argentina from mscdirect.com in my hub motor.
 
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I have no way to email photos or take videos. Would require a lot of expensive garbage from China. I will never spend a dime with Aventon. Sleazeball vendors read the forums about how you destroyed your reputation.
I would buy a shaft torque sensor with the same connector off ebay or amazon. Then replace it. You will need a crank arm puller. If the bearings have a standard number or standard dimension you might be able to buy real ones (US, Ger, TWA, Arg) from an industrial supply. I put BSC bearings made in Argentina from mscdirect.com in my hub motor.
Thanks. Yesterday I ordered a bottom bracket removal tool and a crank puller so I can at least get a look at the right bearing cartridge. I'll need to buy another special wrench to unscrew the left side. Then I can pull it out and measure the dimensions.

I'd love to get one that's less sensitive. Even at Level 1, I have to keep my touch light to avoid taking off like a rocket. I guess the bike was made for those who prefer ghost pedaling. I prefer pedaling without help most of the time. According to the display, I've run 120 miles on my latest charge, and 48% remains.
 
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After 150 miles, my Aventon Abound began making a brushing noise each time the right pedal passed 5 o-clock. Nothing rubbed when I hand cranked, and I saw that everything was clear when I removed the chain guard. I changed pedals and changed shoes. It didn’t help.

It was coming from the inside, where the bottom bracket was a torque sensor, and 5 o’clock was when the torque relaxed. If I extended the torque by using my foot to pull the right pedal through bottom dead center or by starting to push the left pedal before top dead center, there was no noise.

It was getting worse and I didn’t know much about bottom bracket torque sensors. If it had happened to me in 150 miles, and the model had been sold for a year or so, I figured it had happened to others. I contacted Support for advice.

When I registered, I used the same email address I’d used to order the bike. They had the purchase information on record but required me to provide it again. They said the purpose of registration was to streamline support requests. I used the same email address to contact Support, but they demanded all my purchase information again. They went further, demanding a clear photo of the serial number.

There was no reason for this except harassment. It entailed removing my mirror and horn and moving my gearshift, control pad, and display in order to turn the bike over to try to get a clear photo of what was an irregularity in the thick, glossy enamel.

They also demanded a photo of the problem. I submitted the serial number photo and reminded them that I’d said no cause for the noise was visible. They demanded a video. I said my snapshot camera would make videos but without audio. I said it would be dangerous to ride while using the camera with one hand, and the resulting video would reveal nothing.

They said they would have to see the sound to diagnose it, and if I would not submit a video, I would have to go to a dealer. The only dealer in 50 miles is accessible over 14 miles of narrow, busy highways. I don't have a car, and the bike wouldn't fit in a car anyway. It’s as if I’ve interfaced with a Communist Chinese AI bot who hasn’t learned that you can't see noise or that when you’re told nothing is visible, that means nothing will appear in a photo. It seems as if Aventon’s two-year warranty means that for two years their AI bot will tell you to go to hell.

That was Thursday. Friday, the noise was so loud that I felt like a steam locomotive, chuffing along. On the other side of a wide street, a man was walking his dog 100 yards ahead. He turned around and stood staring. Saturday there was an additional chuff, at 1 o’clock. That’s where the right bearing takes on its load, and 5 o’clock is where it’s released.

Sunday, the noises were miraculously gone. They were still gone Monday but back Tuesday. Now I understood. It’s a lube problem. A warm front had come in on Saturday. Sunday and Monday, the temperature had been around 60 for the first time in weeks. The right bearing takes twice the load of the left and, under a load, a ball bearing squeezes some lube away from the race. The lube is supposed to flow back fast enough to maintain a good film, but it was too viscous below 60 F, allowing the loaded side of the race to run dry. Just as the pressure was lifted, the dry balls would be loose enough to make noise.

The bottom bracket was at 40 when I got the bike out of the garage Wednesday. I kept warming it with a heat gun and taking a short test ride. When the temperature held at 62, the noise went away and didn’t return.

It was cold in December and January, and I rode every day with no noise. That means something has happened to the lube in the sealed bearings. If they lasted only two months, they must be of poor quality, like the tire that lasted a week.

Is it possible to fit an Aventon bottom bracket torque sensor with better bearings?
Dry balls will do it to you every time. 🙃
 
I pulled the right crank arm and the chain wheel to get a look at the bearing. The seal looked as tough as a tire. I prodded with a little screwdriver and didn't find any way past it. My new plan was to make a pinhole near the top and inject oil through a steel needle. The BB was at 60 F after the bike was ready to ride. I rode it with no noise. Half an hour later it was at 55. I heard a brushing sound.

I use a 16 gauge needle to apply 5 W motor oil. I wanted to use silicone oil because it probably wouldn't react with the existing lube, but I didn't know if what was offered could be injected because I didn't know how to compare Cp and Cst figures to 5 W. So I ordered Liberty 100% Synthetic Lubricant, which comes with an 18 gauge needle.

The oil arrived at dusk today. It was too late to start the job, and something occurred to me. The BB was at 48 F. I took it for a ride and it was quiet. Later I took it out again when it was at 40 F. Still no brushing or scraping sound.

The difference was that I used the throttle to get underway. I always do that with my other ebikes because they're single-speed. Without the motor, it takes maximum pedal pressure to get underway because you have to get up to 5 mph or so before you fall. At 1 mph, peak pressure lasts 10 times longer than at 10 mph, squeezing lube out of races. When the lube is cold and slow, maybe sometimes the film doesn't recover and I end up with noise, immediately or after a quarter of a mile of pedaling.

Maybe the lube hasn't changed lately. Maybe in January I tended more to get underway with the throttle.
 
Hi spokewrench, any update? Has your brushing sound gone away, or did you have to inject new lube/grease, or did you have to install a new torque sensor?
 
Hi spokewrench, any update? Has your brushing sound gone away, or did you have to inject new lube/grease, or did you have to install a new torque sensor?
I wonder why I didn't get an email alert about your post.

I decided another torque sensor would be no better than the first. Yesterday I installed a conventional bottom bracket. It seems to have solved the problem.

The bottom brackets I've had in the past have done well, but one with a torque sensor has a fatter rotating part. That means the bearing has to be smaller. The ends of the shaft stick out farther (39mm instead of 28), so there's a bigger load on the bearing. Maybe all BB torque sensors are problematic.

I knew I'd need a crankset where the chain wheel would bolt to the right crank. I ordered this.

I don't recommend that brand. The tapered hole in the left crank was not machined properly.

I measured the distance from the chainwheel to the frame, removed the chainwheel, bolted it to the new right crank, installed the crank, and found that the chainwheel was 11 mm farther from the frame. That told me that the shaft of the replacement BB had to be 11 mm shorter on the right, or 22 mm shorter on both sides. The OE shaft was 177 mm. I needed a 100mm BSA bottom bracket with a 155mm shaft. I bought this, which I would recommend.
I did have trouble getting the left cap threaded into the frame.

Today, I learned to carry an 8mm allen wrench because the left crank kept loosening. The tapered hole had a lump of alloy that kept it from seating fully on the shaft. I think it's finally on all the way, but I won't ride anywhere yet without that wrench.

Now I use the throttle lever instead of PAS. It works better than I imagined. I moved the throttle lever to where the end of my thumb would be along the bar with my wrist and fingers in their natural position. Now my thumb can comfortably feather in whatever amount of assistance I want.
 
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