myers830
Active Member
It will be very interesting to see what happens after the warranty period is up (or voided by "messing around") for those who still think buying an "inexpensive" bike upfront saves them money long term once the cheaper grade electrical components and motors start to fail. You gotta cut costs somewhere and its becoming increasingly obvious over time where those savings were made. Mine has only 200 very easy PAS 1 or 2 MILES on it, and already the motor is making some bad sounds (and that's after the bike was shipped with a defective battery right out of the box). The bike design is very good. The electrical components are where the upfront savings will be negated over time because unlike a brake pad or a tire...electrical components are expensive to replace once its YOUR money. Seriously..that controller probably cost about $10 to produce (if that).
w3curtis
Member
eBike controller prices have come down a lot in the last few years. I remember when a Sondors upgrade 20 Amp controller was over $100. The Lectric XP controllers have "waterproof" connectors and these tend to be more pricey than the non waterproof controllers. While something like this includes other ancillary parts, it may be similar to the Lectric XP controller. However, I think after all your efforts, $70 will look reasonable.
Just curious, how did you fry the controller trying to upgrade the headlight? Did you just put a bigger light on the standard headlight wiring or..?
Just curious, how did you fry the controller trying to upgrade the headlight? Did you just put a bigger light on the standard headlight wiring or..?
Darceman
Well-Known Member
I run a 18 watt led that is extremely bright. If you don't hook it up wrong it will work with this controller. It can be done... Just don't him it up wrong...
Darceman
Well-Known Member
I have four XP bikes...no issues so far. Over one year old 4000km combined. $70 for a controller..two tires cost more than that...
w3curtis
Member
I'm reminded of that old Soviet proverb -"quantity has a quality all it's own."
Lectric has sold so many bikes of a single variant (plus now the Step-Thru) I think in a short will there will be many specific sub-suppliers that will allow owners to modify and customize at reasonable costs.
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sed6
Active Member
Two ways. First time I drew 2+ amps thru the headlight circuit charging my phone...poof. Second time I hooked up a 60w headlight, the halo one that seems popular. 60w/50v=1.25amps, well above the 1.0 amp limit.
w3curtis
Member
That's good to know. I'll have to add a 1 amp fuse when I upgrade my headlight and add the USB phone holder to that circuit. However, 48 volts @ 1 amp should be more than adequate to power a better LED light/horn and USB charger. The charger should only take about 12 watts leaving 36 watts for the light. A 36 watt LED headlight should be way bright.
Darceman
Well-Known Member
60 watt headlamp? No wonder it fried...was that LED?...that's an aircraft landing light
Finn Chicago
New Member
I wired my USB port right into the power supply wires and not jump into any of the controller circuits. It turn on when the key s turned on and it works great,
RobK
Member
You are WRONG. None of lectric controllers have waterproof connectors. Only their LCDs , they claim are waterproof which they arent really. Thats why you see a lot of people put ziplock bags on them lol.
w3curtis
Member
You are RIGHT. While the initial connectors on the Lectric controller are indeed SM, and not waterproof, Lectric splices waterproof connectors on to ALL the SM connectors. The splice, at least on my 1.0 is then "sealed" with some type of gel adhesive. The result is that ALL the connectors for PAS, brakes, lights & display are waterproof.
w3curtis
Member
With about a hundred miles or so with my new controller setup, I can now provide an update.
Some time ago, my 1.0 Lectric XP fell over and my display broke. The bike was still usable but as you could see from the picture, the display was useless. I reached out to Lectric and they offered to send me a replacement display for $73.14 (tax and shipping included).
If it was under $50 I probably would have just opted for the replacement display and left it at that. Instead I dragged my feet and held off. Some time after, seeing DavidBrandNew's video gave me an idea. Initially, he used a "KT" controller with the stock Lectric XP motor. It's been rumored that the Lectric XP motor was a rebranded (or clone) Bafang so this should be no surprise. Also, eBike motors are mostly standard now so most any controller/display combination should work with the Lectric XP motor.
I ordered the below items from KT Ebike Accessories Store at AliExpress totaling $178. So for about $105 more than just a replacement display, I get an upgraded more powerful controller (12/25 Amps) and color display (KTLCD8S).
Total - $178.00
Replacement Lectric XP 1.0 Display $73.14
This new controller is physically bigger than the OEM controller so I mounted it behind the seat post. With this controller's ALL waterproof connectors and the 1T5 cable, wiring was MUCH simpler and cleaner. Having the controller out in the air stream also aids in cooling.
The stock brake levers are a different gender and pin than what the 1T5 cable is expecting so I replaced them. The OEM PAS sensor is compatible so no change required there. I had already swapped out my twist throttle for a thumb throttle, so I continued to use my thumb throttle. The motor cable on the new controller is a bit too short so a motor extension cable was required. And lastly a rear light extension cable was required from the controller.
Original controller, cables, display & brake levers (with replaced thumb throttle)
New Controller, cables, display & brake levers.
After everything was wired up and tested, I went through a few iterations of controller settings. The below are are my current settings and seem to work well. Note, I had to set the tire size to 23" to get the speed to read correctly.
I've been up a few steep hills and while not dramatic, it is definately more powerful than the stock controller. As the weather improves, I'll report more or speeds, etc.
Some time ago, my 1.0 Lectric XP fell over and my display broke. The bike was still usable but as you could see from the picture, the display was useless. I reached out to Lectric and they offered to send me a replacement display for $73.14 (tax and shipping included).
If it was under $50 I probably would have just opted for the replacement display and left it at that. Instead I dragged my feet and held off. Some time after, seeing DavidBrandNew's video gave me an idea. Initially, he used a "KT" controller with the stock Lectric XP motor. It's been rumored that the Lectric XP motor was a rebranded (or clone) Bafang so this should be no surprise. Also, eBike motors are mostly standard now so most any controller/display combination should work with the Lectric XP motor.
I ordered the below items from KT Ebike Accessories Store at AliExpress totaling $178. So for about $105 more than just a replacement display, I get an upgraded more powerful controller (12/25 Amps) and color display (KTLCD8S).
Replacement Lectric XP 1.0 Display $73.14
This new controller is physically bigger than the OEM controller so I mounted it behind the seat post. With this controller's ALL waterproof connectors and the 1T5 cable, wiring was MUCH simpler and cleaner. Having the controller out in the air stream also aids in cooling.
The stock brake levers are a different gender and pin than what the 1T5 cable is expecting so I replaced them. The OEM PAS sensor is compatible so no change required there. I had already swapped out my twist throttle for a thumb throttle, so I continued to use my thumb throttle. The motor cable on the new controller is a bit too short so a motor extension cable was required. And lastly a rear light extension cable was required from the controller.
Original controller, cables, display & brake levers (with replaced thumb throttle)
New Controller, cables, display & brake levers.
After everything was wired up and tested, I went through a few iterations of controller settings. The below are are my current settings and seem to work well. Note, I had to set the tire size to 23" to get the speed to read correctly.
I've been up a few steep hills and while not dramatic, it is definately more powerful than the stock controller. As the weather improves, I'll report more or speeds, etc.
questvent
New Member
- Region
- USA
If you're finding this thread because you want to replace the controller that comes with the Lectric XP 1.0 bikes with something else and you get the above list of KT-EBike products, you might also need to adapt the battery connector to the XT60 that these controllers use. My XP 1.0's came with 'Deans T-Plug' battery connectors, but these controllers use XT60. You can get these adapters fairly easily.
I haven't really ridden mine much yet, but the parts from the above list were fairly easily to install.
I haven't really ridden mine much yet, but the parts from the above list were fairly easily to install.
Wonderful. Did it help with PAS issue that people were complaining about - giving same full power at different PAS levels, only with different cut-off speed? I remember a while ago C14 setting was used to adjust the power of PAS, but there were only 2 settings: 1 - less power and 2 - more power, now I see 3?
w3curtis
Member
One thing I hated about the OEM controller was PAS behavior. It was slow to come on and when it did it was "aggressive" even in the lowest setting. While I have C14 set to 3 (Strongest assist), the KT controller PAS enables quicker and is MUCH smoother. NO abrupt “jerk” after a half turn of the pedal. Another caveat with the KT controller is when using throttle only, speed/power is tied to the PAS setting. That is, in PAS 1, your throttle only speed is limited to about 14 MPH. To achieve maximum speed throttle only, you will need to up the PAS level to 5. There may be a way to override this behavior but I have yet to find it, though I haven’t' looked that hard since I'm OK with it.
Here is a better picture of the mounted controller. Simple aluminum angle and cushion clamps.
w3curtis
Member
Yup! Changing P3 to 1 allows full power throttle only on any PAS settings.
Top speed NO pedaling is 28 MPH!
I can easily get over 32 MPH with pedaling. Next I'll have to do a range test with the new controller.
w3curtis
Member
With the updated controller and display with integrated USB port, the 1 T 5 cable allowed me to move the light up high. I had already replaced the crappy OEM light with an LED Light/Horn set that operated from 12-72 volts. With a Handlebar Cycling Clip Clamp, I was able to place the light at the top of the stem.
Ebike E-Bike 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V 72V Electric Bicycle Light/Horn Set
Handlebar M6 Screw Cycling Clip Clamp
For those that are using Apple Airtags to "protect" your ebike, these "reflectors" may come in handy.
Ebike E-Bike 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V 72V Electric Bicycle Light/Horn Set
Handlebar M6 Screw Cycling Clip Clamp
For those that are using Apple Airtags to "protect" your ebike, these "reflectors" may come in handy.
FrankR
Active Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Milky Way Galaxy
I am just discovering this thread.
I am inclined to go down this road someday.
I don't have a Lectric, but I have what looks like a Lectric clone. 500w motor. Same M5 display. Same battery type.
I have fretted over the fact that my particular OEM - Paselec - is absolutely useless regarding spare parts dialog.
My bike is fine today, but, inevitably, I will have an electric fail. I might just attempt rebuilding with this when that happens.
I am inclined to go down this road someday.
I don't have a Lectric, but I have what looks like a Lectric clone. 500w motor. Same M5 display. Same battery type.
I have fretted over the fact that my particular OEM - Paselec - is absolutely useless regarding spare parts dialog.
My bike is fine today, but, inevitably, I will have an electric fail. I might just attempt rebuilding with this when that happens.
