Day 3 - Tobishima Kaido (Bridge Crossings over the Akinada Islands)
We might have saved the best for last of the inland sea crossings. Tobishima Kaido is the lesser-known route that takes riders through serene rural islands and unveils Japan’s untouched landscapes and local culture. Not as long a route, it’s roughly 55 kilometers connecting five large and two small islands to the Honshu mainland via a series of bridges.
The islands, also collectively known as the Akinada Islands, are located in the Seto Inland Sea between Honshu and Shikoku and span two different prefectures - Ehime and Hiroshima. These islands are a haven for cyclists with long, flat stretches along the coast, exhilarating bridge crossings with sweeping vistas, and plenty of opportunities to detour through the hilly interiors.
Compared to the well-known Shimanami Kaido, which has a wealth of attractions, eateries, and accommodations along the route, the Tobishima Kaido winds through rural farmlands and sleepy fishing villages, and other cyclists or tourists are far less common. We could have easily spent two days exploring these islands but our hectic schedule didn’t permit the time as our accommodations in Hiroshima City were already booked.
Prior to our date with the ferryman, we rode the short distance to visit the five tiered, six story Imabari Castle. Surrounded by a triple moat where boats could enter the castle from the sea.
This likely explains the species of fish that reside in the moat.
A heron looking for easy pickings near the castle wall.
Kurogane-gomon Gate is the entrance of the outer citadel.
Sai gazes up at the bronze statue of Daimyon (land magnate) Todo Takatora, a warrior who constructed the Imabari Castle.
The beautiful castle and its three turrets was built in the early Edo period (circa 1602).
Once again, we would start our trip with a ferry crossing albeit this one was much longer (around one hour in length) with two small island stops in between. We were not allowed to accompany the bikes and were advised to stay seated inside the cabin due to rough waters. The skies were overcast most of the day but rain was not expected.
The crossing itself was choppy to start with and we were a bit worried about how securely lashed the bikes were to the deck of the boat but things calmed down once we entered the shelter of the islands. Not to worry as we disembarked with bikes dry and unscathed.
A few kms up the road we came across a nice beach but Sai pointed out something more interesting past the breakwater specifically a couple of strange rock outcroppings that resembled a rabbit and Kappa (water dwelling creature). Only until I zoomed in could I understand what she was referring to.
Further up the road along the seawall, we stopped to view the historic town of Mitarai in the distance.
…and the Okamura Bridge, the first of three closely spaced spans which link to smaller islands in between.
Sai easily tackles the first climb up toward the 228-meter-long metal span.
Up at the bridge’s observation deck small wooden placards hang from their metal supports. These enmusubi or love talismans are placed here to help strengthen the romantic bonds among friends or ties between family, coworkers, etc..
A few more spins later we come across its twin, the Nakanoseto Bridge.
A lovely view from the bridge.
And the third in the series, the taller cable spanned Heira Bridge.
From here, we ride south on an out-and-back side trip to the historic but charming seaside town of Mitarai where time stands still. Due to its location being literally in the middle of the sea, Mitarai escaped most of the development that came with the twentieth century, especially that of the second half that obliterated so much of traditional Japan.
Before we enter the old streets, we take in the serenity of the Sumiyoshi Shinto shrine and garden with its twin lighthouses.
Mitarai's narrow lanes and alleys are still lined with buildings that date back to an earlier age. Consequently it has been designated a Historic Preservation District of Traditional Architecture, and more recently a Japan Heritage Site. It truly is a gem.
On our way back to the main coastal road, we stop by a local eatery that was also selling citrus fruit as the region was in the midst of the harvest season. Citrus groves were abundant and could be seen everywhere we rode. I’ve never tasted freshly squeezed mikan oranges so this was certainly a rare treat. Ehime prefecture, in the northwest corner of Shikoku Island, mikan are especially delicious and of high quality, giving the prefecture the reputation as the citrus kingdom of Japan.
Cheers!
1.5 km up the road we stopped for lunch at a seaside café. All of the tables inside were taken so we sat out on the patio and enjoyed a satisfying fish fry meal complete with miso soup, rice and pickles. We certainly didn’t have any problems searching for places to eat during the entire trip and the consistent quality, presentation of food and menu selections were above and beyond what one could expect back home.
Think you need to notify Specialized and advise them that Sunset Yellow should be added to their color chart.
We ended up finding a somewhat secure indoor bike parkade several city blocks away that didn’t close its public gates until 11pm. Not the preferred way we wanted to secure our bikes but it was certainly a better alternative than the outdoor versions where you simply lock your front wheel into a track. Sai informed me that even in Japan high end road bikes are especially prized by thieves when presented with an easy target. The only glitch on an otherwise spectacular multi-day trip across the Seto Inland Sea. 
