2016 Turbo S chain drops off chainring :(

N

New E Biker

New Member
I have had mine for about 8 weeks now, and have had the front chain pop to just outboard the chainring where it becomes stuck between the chainring and the outer guard. It just sits there and slips. It happens mostly when I upshift while accelerating aggressively, and oddly enough has happened taking off from the same intersection multiple times. I have occasionally been able to get it back on the chainring by downshifting to pull it back inboard. Today after I successfully completed this maneuver, I did another up shift and the sucker fell off INBOARD. Anyhow, the first time or 2 I though it was a minor nuisance, but now I am getting a bit frustrated. Talked to the dealer about it and he was absolutely no help. Seems his interest in me waned rapidly after I dropped $7 G's in his shop. Anyhow I am surprised by this frequent fall off as I have used Shimano drivetrains for 20 years, although this is my first "1X" system. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also suggestions that I "shift carefully" will be noted, but I have already thought of this. Seems disappointing in a bike that costs as much as a good used motorcycle (or a beater car).

Respectfully,

New E Biker
Cupertino CA
 
New E Biker said:
I have had mine for about 8 weeks now, and have had the front chain pop to just outboard the chainring where it becomes stuck between the chainring and the outer guard. It just sits there and slips. It happens mostly when I upshift while accelerating aggressively, and oddly enough has happened taking off from the same intersection multiple times. I have occasionally been able to get it back on the chainring by downshifting to pull it back inboard. Today after I successfully completed this maneuver, I did another up shift and the sucker fell off INBOARD. Anyhow, the first time or 2 I though it was a minor nuisance, but now I am getting a bit frustrated. Talked to the dealer about it and he was absolutely no help. Seems his interest in me waned rapidly after I dropped $7 G's in his shop. Anyhow I am surprised by this frequent fall off as I have used Shimano drivetrains for 20 years, although this is my first "1X" system. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also suggestions that I "shift carefully" will be noted, but I have already thought of this. Seems disappointing in a bike that costs as much as a good used motorcycle (or a beater car).

Respectfully,

New E Biker
Cupertino CA
Click to expand...

Take it to another Specialized dealer and they will install a chain guide and that should solve this issue.
Another thing to consider when you buy a bike is, the vibe and energy of that dealer. Are they trying to gouge you? or they really committed to this space and your satisfaction. Unfortunately, the moment your CC is charged, some people change tones.
I am sure there tons of wonderful specialized dealers in CA.

Here's something people have discussed on this forum: http://specialized.desk.com/customer/portal/questions/8267300-turbo-s-chain-falling-off

Should be a easy fix. Nothing to fret about ...
 
Considering the extra power being exerted on the chain, the only things I can think of to remediate the problem would be making sure the chain is clean and oiled, and also maybe start off in a litter assist level. If you're starting in a higher assist, maybe the motor is pushing the chain up and off the crank as a result?

A chain guide might help keep better tension as well, something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZ...hain+guide&dpPl=1&dpID=419vDGrgt9L&ref=plSrch
 
Thanks so much for your prompt reply!

Interestingly enough my bike already has a Specialized chain guard thing installed.

You are 110% correct though, the dealer should follow up and assist. I will take it back up with the dealer, and if I don't get satisfaction then I will find another.
 
Thanks also regarding the aftermarket chain guide and starting in Eco mode.

I think i'll continue to hound the dealer and get a Specialized rep to weigh in.
 
Well at the risk of sounding like a dope, I may have fixed the issue. I decided to follow pxpaulx's advice and do some chain maintenance. Whilst crawling around cleaning the chain and applying fresh Park CL-1, (wearing my camping headlight) I noticed that the chain guard that is on the bike is slotted (adjustable!). In my cursory look when I first got the bike, I had just assumed it had only one fixed position. Anyhow, it was a simple matter to move the guard as close as possible to the chain. I noticed that it is plastic, so it's designed to be hit or rubbed by the chain (think of motocross chain guides that are on the upper swingarm) in order to stop the big oscillations from derailing the chain.

In any case, I will post a report after my commute tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure it just wasn't adjusted correctly by the shop assembly dude (or dudette).

Hopefully it will work, and if so, may be useful to others having this same issue.
 
Chain maintenance is important too. If the chain is dirty and gritty, it will drop even with a chain guide. If it's only ridden on dry sunny roads it's not such an issue. I think e-bike customers are a lot higher maintenance than traditional road bike customers and the shops aren't quite used to it.
 
Maybe I missed something but it sounds like the chain is stretched or there isn't enough spring tension on the rear derailleur.

If your easy fix does not work take call Specialized USA and tell them your dealer doesn't know how to fix this, and can they recommend another one?

For $7000 your dealer should be getting you a double decaf latte' every time you walk thru the door!
 
If adjusting did not help, have one of these installed: (Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

My Turbo does not have a chain guide or even an easy solution to install an aftermarket one, so the narrow-wide chainring was the simplest solution. I used to have the chain drop on almost every ride, but after having installed the new ring, only a single drop has occurred over several months. And that was quite a bump when I hit when it dropped.
 
Marko...the new Turbos use BCD104 MTB chainrings, not the 5 bolt road chainrings like on your older Turbo. I found a suitable 44T chainring to replace my stock 48T ring, but it took more searching. There are LOTS of BCD104 rings at 40T and less, but fewer at the larger sizes, and fewer still bash guard options.
 
Marko said:
Ok, but there are drop stop chainrings of all sizes like here: http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/chainrings
Click to expand...

Ahh...but try to find a 104BCD chainring designed for a single (as opposed to dual or triple) in the 44-48T range. The largest one at Wolftooth is 38T. This was the issue I found when trying to find alternate chainrings for my 2015/26 Turbo. The 5 bolt 110BCD on your earlier Turbo is a standard roadbike style crank and larger chainrings are easier to find.
 
I didn't realise they only had up to 38T, which is really not something I would want to have in a the single chainring setup. Unless there was a cassette to compensate for that.
 
I also expanded my rear cassette range from 11-32T to 11-36T using an SRAM PG1050 rear cassette.
 
Well I got a chuckle out of JoePah's reply, and thanks to Marko for the advice on narrow-wide tooth chainrings.

Ride Update - 3 miles into my 12 mile (one way) commute, the rear tire (45c Nimbus Armadillow) was skewered by a very large construction staple which had a very interesting shape to it, was bent 90 degrees along the axis in the U section which gave it a configuration much like an old sea anchor (one arm is flat on the road, the other is pointed straight up) that appears designed for maximum chance at puncturing any tire that runs over it.

This was in a very well used and well maintained bicycle path along an expressway in Los Altos, CA. Seems a bit strange to me, almost like it was bent on purpose.

Anyhow, it punched into the tire with predictable results.

I was going to try and ride a portion of the way back home to cut a little time off the 3 mile walk before the tire was completely flat, but as soon as I turned around and started, the chain (freshly cleaned, lubricated and with newly adjusted stock Specialized chain guard set as close as possible to the chain) promptly DROPPED OFF the chainring, on the inboard side.

Well I was needless to say a bit frustrated. I walked home (about 35 minutes) and haven't had time to drop the bike off at the dealer yet due to late work both days.

But I did call and let them know that in addition to having them replace the rear tire and tube, I expect them to address this chain drop issue to my satisfaction.

So my chain maintenance / chain guide adjustment seemed ineffective regarding the chain drop issue.

More to follow.
 
My local shop has the bike now. They did not have the tire in stock so I won't have the bike back until Wednesday. I requested that they address the chain drop issue and that they should contact Specialized for assistance. I will keep you posted after I get the bike back.
 
Update finally!

Dealer had installed new chain (Shimano XTR) which did nothing.

The weird thing is that the chain dropped repetitively inboard under very low load conditions (I was intentionally being careful) and even dropped when shifting between 5th and 6th gears, when the chain line is at it's most neutral (not stressed to the extreme inner or outer cogs!)

So dealer put on a new SRAM chain. I said I wasn't going to bother trying the bike again until they spoke with the Specialized tech folks.

Turns out there is what the dealer calls a "clutch type" rear derailleur which provides an adjustment to the amount of tension applied to the derailleur pulleys (this tension is what takes up the slack in the chain by pulling back on the lower pulley), and this came from the factory on the "low" setting. They moved it to the "medium".

I took the bike back and have had 2 successful commutes of 15 miles each, no dropping yet.

I will keep you posted.
 
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