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Can you post a photo?

I thought there is only one screw on the end of the grip, acting as a clamp. Where is the other?

Hmm...good luck to you. Keep us posted on how you like it otherwise. I think revisiting your dealer is still reasonable. They should figure stuff out for you, so you don't have to call around. I am sure the mothership has an answer and they can get it!

Whoa, okay that explains...but sorry, getting technical at this point! I don't have riding experience or anything with it...so i don't know why the light sensor (?) is doing what it's doing or anything. Also your dealer knows best I figure. I do have some experience with one part in that photo...

Here is the best photo I could find... Basically, I think if you flip it at the hinge (you'll have to remove that screw circled in yellow) then you can invert it, but also you can sort of guide the light up and over the saddle rail clamp itself and get the wire to take a good path also (red...

Yeah basically. Some additional nuances that are hard to explain in words. I'll find a better photo of the setup tomorrow. Also who's your Trek dealer?

Very cool! Nice upgrade to the Nyon display too. Just an observation but the rear light should be flipped (just do it at the hinge, not the saddle rail clamps) so it tucks under the seat better, if you like. Also you can put a different cog on the motor if you want to mess with gearing a little...

There is indeed a torque for that fastener. 6Nm is not the spec but is a safe torque to use. But if you're greasing the bolt head you could consider 5Nm. I heard it from some shop at some point. They seemed pretty certain on it.

If you have a torque wrench, consider applying 6Nm to each screw. Also, the nuts they thread into are metal with nylon locker built-in (lock nut...). But...threadlocker could still be an option. Just be cautious if you remove the screws entirely because the nuts that they thread into can wander...

The motor doesn't have a torque sensor built in so how would it report rider power? Some estimation calculation?

Any given year of new bikes usually come out about 6 months prior to the calendar year. So yeah, mid-2019 maybe. Shame there seems to be a dead zone where you can't get the old bike or new bike :(

It's an impressive system for sure. I did some test stops and it works quite well. There is a point where it cuts out depending on lean angle. If you're pretty far into a corner I think the idea is that ABS can't really save you regardless.

This thread is super cool. I am very interested in Japan eBike stuff. Here's a few current magazine excerpts from over yonder.

Haha this thread is crazy... Bosch (maybe others) have it set in firmware so that if you have tire circumference, tire pressure etc all perfect the bike will go a tiny bit slower than legal limit but are still displaying 20mph etc. They don't want you to be going faster than than the legal...

At some point there will be an inline dongle one can purchase that changes the signal so it appears to be going slower than 20mph or whatever. Maybe these guys have it already and I didn't realize https://www.ebiketuning.com/

Yeah but more states are adopting category 1, 2, 3 and so I think the top speed will ultimately fall into the 28mph range. For niche brands sure they might find a grey area. But the big names won't want to risk it. So what to do then?

I forget...did this concept of an enclosed 3-wheel cycle originate from the UK or something? Because there they have lots of bridal paths and small country roads and it seems like that sort of "extra large bike path" would be great for this. But yeah regular bike paths are kind of a crap shoot...

I think that electric motorcycles will force eBike makers to up their quality and visual appearance. Basically towing eBikes into the next generation of design. Starting to let go of double-diamond frames and get more cables and things hidden away. Won't make working on eBikes any easier, for...

Cool video. Where in the world are you?