Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
I'm over a month into my Cliks now and nothing but happy about it.Nicely done! I'm still tickled pink with mine and I hope you feel the same.
I'm over a month into my Cliks now and nothing but happy about it.Nicely done! I'm still tickled pink with mine and I hope you feel the same.
I kinda think they made a winner here. Seems about bloody time!I'm over a month into my Cliks now and nothing but happy about it.
Five months into my Cliks as well. Post-Presta life is good. Don't miss 'em a bit.Welp... we're pretty much into October now, and that makes 5 months into Clik valve usage, and many kms of riding/experience.
Not gonna lie, I wish these things were available years ago.
The weekly loss of air is way down, minimal at most. I think I'm down to needing air maybe 3 to 4 weeks instead of weekly/two weeks.
That and the ease of filling and not needing to undo that stupid effing collar is bliss!
Presta had a good 100 year run, and I'm done. YMMV![]()
Yes, I can imagine your tire pressure level being higher than mine at 30psi. If you're tubeless I would think that the culprit more than valve related?Five months into my Cliks as well. Post-Presta life is good. Don't miss 'em a bit.
Have to air up my tubeless tires more often than you do, but the rate's no different than it was pre-Clik. It's so easy now, who cares?
Anyone else carrying a Shrader adapter for emergency air — e.g. from another rider or gas station? Not that I've ever needed that.
I run 35-40 psi front and rear. Pretty sure my background air loss is mainly at the rim seals.Yes, I can imagine your tire pressure level being higher than mine at 30psi. If you're tubeless I would think that the culprit more than valve related?
But... the convenience... the ease of adding air... the lack of need for me to find a tool to open the valve...
No regrets, no way back.![]()
My riding buddy Marek uses them for his tubeless setup and he swears by them.So I just put in muc off big bore lite valves to try out.
Interesting, and unfortunate but cheers for the feedback!My Clik days are over. I gave them an honest try for five months or so but they are not what I hoped for. Both valves are partially plugged and the pump head to valve seal leaks a little unless it’s held motionless while snapped on. I use Orange Seal and usually rotate the wheels so the valves are at 6:00 to drain between rides. I do forget that occasionally but still, both are partially clogged and they can’t really be cleaned. The Clik mechanism doesn’t let you clean out the inner portion very thoroughly.
So I just put in muc off big bore lite valves to try out. They don’t have any core or spring loaded mechanism of any kind, just a ball valve that you twist open and closed with a quarter turn. They worked great in mounting my tires and injecting sealant in. They’re basically like a presta valve without the valve core, so lots of air flows in and you close the ball valve before removing the pump head so there’s no air loss. Sealant squirts right in and it’s easy to check the level with a dipstick - no core to remove, just give the valve a twist.
Time will tell if it’s the answer I’m looking for but so far it is looking good.
My Clik days are over. I gave them an honest try for five months or so but they are not what I hoped for. Both valves are partially plugged and the pump head to valve seal leaks a little unless it’s held motionless while snapped on. I use Orange Seal and usually rotate the wheels so the valves are at 6:00 to drain between rides. I do forget that occasionally but still, both are partially clogged and they can’t really be cleaned. The Clik mechanism doesn’t let you clean out the inner portion very thoroughly.
So I just put in muc off big bore lite valves to try out. They don’t have any core or spring loaded mechanism of any kind, just a ball valve that you twist open and closed with a quarter turn. They worked great in mounting my tires and injecting sealant in. They’re basically like a presta valve without the valve core, so lots of air flows in and you close the ball valve before removing the pump head so there’s no air loss. Sealant squirts right in and it’s easy to check the level with a dipstick - no core to remove, just give the valve a twist.
Time will tell if it’s the answer I’m looking for but so far it is looking good.
The plugged area is inside the Clik valve - the spring loaded plunger can only be pulled out a mm or so and I can’t clean out the tiny bits of gummy sealant inside the shaft. If I were able to put grease in there it would only make things worse. It is the airflow pathway through the valve. I did try spraying some light lube in but it wouldn’t last long anyway.you need to get some plumber's silicone grease and grease the valve up before installing it. that has worked well.
well yes you would need a new valve. but I do this on all my valves and it works well. fresh valve grease it up. I have had so many clogged valves, sometimes only getting one or two fills of air. this has worked really well.The plugged area is inside the Clik valve - the spring loaded plunger can only be pulled out a mm or so and I can’t clean out the tiny bits of gummy sealant inside the shaft. If I were able to put grease in there it would only make things worse. It is the airflow pathway through the valve. I did try spraying some light lube in but it wouldn’t last long anyway.
Fingers crossed for the muc off big bore valves!