Gionnirocket
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Wow... the more you look into these bikes, the better they get! 
Wired Cruiser - monster truck of ebikes.
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PCeBiker
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It's most likely heatsink plaster,..
It's specifically designed to conduct heat but Not electricity.
Most things that transfer heat also conduct electricity.
The plaster is safe to use to remove heat without shorting out any wires or conductors.
They also have heat transfer tape and different colored heat transfer "grease".
I also ordered some silicone heatsink glue to glue things in place, but I was sent the same type of paste. It doesn't cure and harden up like I was expecting.
Ah. That is what it was then. Thanks for the info! I wasn't aware there was such a thing. Looking at the thermal conductivity of that stuff is like .671-4.8 w/m-k. Copper is 385-397 w/m-k and aluminum is 205!
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PCeBiker
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So it looks like copper and aluminum conduct heat better, but you would still want heat sink paste between the mating surfaces so the heat can transfer between the surfaces.
You don't want any air gaps between the two surfaces.
They use it on CPU chips in computers and on aluminum heat sink fins for power transistors.
The original controller on my first ebike was fully potted, and they used the heat sink paste between the 9 Mosfets and the aluminum heat sink.
The replacement KT controller only used a high heat plastic strip between the Mosfets and the aluminum heat sink.
The plastic isolates each Mosfet electrically, but doesn't conduct heat to the heat sink nearly as well.
The aluminum and copper antiseize comes in a paste, it would fill any voids between the two surfaces. The heatsink paste in comparison would act as an isolator. The only reason they use the heatsink paste is it doesn't conduct electricity, on the bike where the controller mounts, the screws from the frame into the controller kind of negate isolating the box with heatsink paste. Removing any paint between the two surfaces might be a consideration also. They want the controller to dissipate heat and it has fins, yet they either powder coat it or paint it, which is an insulator, doesn't make sense if it is that important.
PCeBiker
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I did some searching,..
So yeah,..
If you're sure that you aren't going to short anything out electrically, Copper Anti-seize would conduct heat Way Better than thermal conducting paste.
Here's what the AI Robot has to say about it.
You don't want to be doing this,..
Or this, with copper Anti-seize,..
So yeah,..
If you're sure that you aren't going to short anything out electrically, Copper Anti-seize would conduct heat Way Better than thermal conducting paste.
Here's what the AI Robot has to say about it.
You don't want to be doing this,..
Or this, with copper Anti-seize,..
Interesting, thanks for the info. Hadn't thought to google it. Just finished putting it all back together, the more times I do this the better I am at getting the wiring routed better and in the right places. I did use the copper paste, don't know if it is going to make a whole lot of difference, the bottom of the controller is anodized and it wasn't coming off with the effort I put in, but the inside of the box was bare aluminum.
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
If your controller isn't potted, then spray it down inside with AFC-50 or something.
I used the Canadian Krown version to hose down the guts of my controller.
It's thicker and more goopy.
The Fancy AFC-50 is for air force pilots who spilt coffee on the dash of their Jet Fighters,.
I was trying to protect a brand new circuit board, not fix a dirty one.
Both my ebikes had fully potted controllers, but the KT controller wasn't potted.
I drilled tiny weep holes in the bottom corners of both the controller box, and the plastic container box to weep any water out from inside.
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Unidentified Member
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I'm the controller on my bike and I'm often pot'd.... does that count?
Here you can have the best of both worlds.... but it clogged up my bong
Here you can have the best of both worlds.... but it clogged up my bong
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
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I'm the controller on my bike and I'm often pot'd.... does that count?
Yes, but you need to stir the pot with your bare hands.
I'm too lazy to cross the border to look at your link.
I siad no
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Unidentified Member
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Too bad... it's the good stuff!
Ciphering more on the throttle settings, I had the throttle delay set to slowest, there are 0-3 settings, the book says start strength and I was trying to soften the departure kickoff, it is actually throttle delay. Set it to 0, no delay, and it is normal throttle operation.
There is a throttle follow setting, yes/no. In NO, the throttle is pretty much an on/off switch, in YES the throttle will follow the settings in PAS/PWM. In PAS, there is either 0-3, 0-5, 0-7, 0-9, corresponding to number of PWM levels within each choice. These PWM levels can each be set to whatever percentage of motor power that is going to be used at the throttle. So if 0-5 is being used, 0 would be softest start, 5 would be very abrupt is corresponding settings are set to 100% of motor usage. I thought PAS settings would be used in pedaling only, but they dictate the throttle characteristic also.
Got to ride on some crushed asphalt trails today, those 4" tires are the bees knees in loose stuff. And I am convinced this bike has enough power to climb anything a person is brave enough to ride up.
There is a throttle follow setting, yes/no. In NO, the throttle is pretty much an on/off switch, in YES the throttle will follow the settings in PAS/PWM. In PAS, there is either 0-3, 0-5, 0-7, 0-9, corresponding to number of PWM levels within each choice. These PWM levels can each be set to whatever percentage of motor power that is going to be used at the throttle. So if 0-5 is being used, 0 would be softest start, 5 would be very abrupt is corresponding settings are set to 100% of motor usage. I thought PAS settings would be used in pedaling only, but they dictate the throttle characteristic also.
Got to ride on some crushed asphalt trails today, those 4" tires are the bees knees in loose stuff. And I am convinced this bike has enough power to climb anything a person is brave enough to ride up.
Wonder how the balancer works for charging or is it just for depletion of the batteries. The front battery is 20 Ah the rear is 15 Ah, both chargers are 3.5. Are the batteries separate on the charging circuit so they don't see each other or does the balancer come into play.
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
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- Canada
Check out this link,..
Dual Battery Balancer circuit - experiences!
Public Safety Announcement (PSA): The dual battery function is a favorite among many riders, and being able to connect 2 batteries and extend the range is an excellent feature. This is one of my favorites too. Bosch has implemented this in an excellent manner, and it works very well. But, I...
forums.electricbikereview.com
Battery Balancers are used to start fires.
Keep an eye on that thing and don't start it on fire.
Well thanks for that read. My balancer looks like the one in Ravi's first post that he is looking at. I am charging right now, it doesn't mix the charge. One battery just went 100% and the other is still at 95%. That last 5% takes forever, then the amp draw drops to 4 or 5 which is noncharging draw and the green light comes on. I may just use one battery, have to see how the discharge goes. Haven't heard any of the Wired community burning anything down yet, there'd be a big outcry if there was. Thanks for the read.
Had the rear tire off to change out the brake disc. That was a no go, the 220 floating rotor buttons that are between the mount and disc interfered with the motor, have to get a regular flat disc. Hope it is flat. Also was going to remove the cover on the motor, those torx bolts are very tight. Was using an impact driver with hammer and the torx bit twisted. Ordered some S2 hardened steel pieces and going to put some heat to them on the next try.
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Unidentified Member
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I'm not positive but I think that's a freewheel not a cassette
If so the removal tool fits down the center.
CC - DNP Epoch Freewheel Remover: fits axles up to 14mm
Check out the deal on CC - DNP Epoch Freewheel Remover: fits axles up to 14mm at Bikeman
www.bikeman.com
The outer 6 dimple ring is part of the assembly
The stock 203 brakes are pretty good. I installed 220 disc on the front and gonna put same on rear. Fixing some of the Chinese engineering at the moment. Took a file to the axle, it is soft, don’t think there is any hardening done to it. The threads into the frame are disappointing.
