Wired Cruiser - monster truck of ebikes.

There was a white pasty substance that looked like permatex teflon paste used to seal water pipe threads between the controller and mount,.. Another fella said it was used to transfer heat to the frame from controller.

It's most likely heatsink plaster,..

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It's specifically designed to conduct heat but Not electricity.

Most things that transfer heat also conduct electricity.
The plaster is safe to use to remove heat without shorting out any wires or conductors.

They also have heat transfer tape and different colored heat transfer "grease".

I also ordered some silicone heatsink glue to glue things in place, but I was sent the same type of paste. It doesn't cure and harden up like I was expecting.
 
It's most likely heatsink plaster,..

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It's specifically designed to conduct heat but Not electricity.

Most things that transfer heat also conduct electricity.
The plaster is safe to use to remove heat without shorting out any wires or conductors.

They also have heat transfer tape and different colored heat transfer "grease".

I also ordered some silicone heatsink glue to glue things in place, but I was sent the same type of paste. It doesn't cure and harden up like I was expecting.
Ah. That is what it was then. Thanks for the info! I wasn't aware there was such a thing. Looking at the thermal conductivity of that stuff is like .671-4.8 w/m-k. Copper is 385-397 w/m-k and aluminum is 205!
 
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Ah. That is what it was then. Thanks for the info! I wasn't aware there was such a thing. Looking at the thermal conductivity of that stuff is like .671-4.8 w/m-k. Copper is 385-397 w/m-k and aluminum is 205!

So it looks like copper and aluminum conduct heat better, but you would still want heat sink paste between the mating surfaces so the heat can transfer between the surfaces.
You don't want any air gaps between the two surfaces.

They use it on CPU chips in computers and on aluminum heat sink fins for power transistors.


The original controller on my first ebike was fully potted, and they used the heat sink paste between the 9 Mosfets and the aluminum heat sink.

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The replacement KT controller only used a high heat plastic strip between the Mosfets and the aluminum heat sink.
The plastic isolates each Mosfet electrically, but doesn't conduct heat to the heat sink nearly as well.
 
The aluminum and copper antiseize comes in a paste, it would fill any voids between the two surfaces. The heatsink paste in comparison would act as an isolator. The only reason they use the heatsink paste is it doesn't conduct electricity, on the bike where the controller mounts, the screws from the frame into the controller kind of negate isolating the box with heatsink paste. Removing any paint between the two surfaces might be a consideration also. They want the controller to dissipate heat and it has fins, yet they either powder coat it or paint it, which is an insulator, doesn't make sense if it is that important.
 
I did some searching,..


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So yeah,..
If you're sure that you aren't going to short anything out electrically, Copper Anti-seize would conduct heat Way Better than thermal conducting paste.


Here's what the AI Robot has to say about it. 😁


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You don't want to be doing this,..

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Or this, with copper Anti-seize,..

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Interesting, thanks for the info. Hadn't thought to google it. Just finished putting it all back together, the more times I do this the better I am at getting the wiring routed better and in the right places. I did use the copper paste, don't know if it is going to make a whole lot of difference, the bottom of the controller is anodized and it wasn't coming off with the effort I put in, but the inside of the box was bare aluminum.
 
Interesting, thanks for the info. Hadn't thought to google it. Just finished putting it all back together, the more times I do this the better I am at getting the wiring routed better and in the right places. I did use the copper paste, don't know if it is going to make a whole lot of difference, the bottom of the controller is anodized and it wasn't coming off with the effort I put in, but the inside of the box was bare aluminum.

If your controller isn't potted, then spray it down inside with AFC-50 or something.
I used the Canadian Krown version to hose down the guts of my controller.
It's thicker and more goopy.

The Fancy AFC-50 is for air force pilots who spilt coffee on the dash of their Jet Fighters,.
I was trying to protect a brand new circuit board, not fix a dirty one.


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Both my ebikes had fully potted controllers, but the KT controller wasn't potted.

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I drilled tiny weep holes in the bottom corners of both the controller box, and the plastic container box to weep any water out from inside.

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Ciphering more on the throttle settings, I had the throttle delay set to slowest, there are 0-3 settings, the book says start strength and I was trying to soften the departure kickoff, it is actually throttle delay. Set it to 0, no delay, and it is normal throttle operation.

There is a throttle follow setting, yes/no. In NO, the throttle is pretty much an on/off switch, in YES the throttle will follow the settings in PAS/PWM. In PAS, there is either 0-3, 0-5, 0-7, 0-9, corresponding to number of PWM levels within each choice. These PWM levels can each be set to whatever percentage of motor power that is going to be used at the throttle. So if 0-5 is being used, 0 would be softest start, 5 would be very abrupt is corresponding settings are set to 100% of motor usage. I thought PAS settings would be used in pedaling only, but they dictate the throttle characteristic also.

Got to ride on some crushed asphalt trails today, those 4" tires are the bees knees in loose stuff. And I am convinced this bike has enough power to climb anything a person is brave enough to ride up.
 
Did a scale of the Warrior. Total weight was 142#, 51.4 front and 90.6 rear. With myself on the bike, total weight was 322#, 107 front and 215 rear, me weighing 180#. So the tires rated at 198# max, the rear is overloaded.
 
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