Are you able to get to the advanced menu to change all the things you claim.
www.pashley.co.uk
There is a small gap between motor and downtube of about a mm. On the DM01 there is a bump on the motor for a mounting bolt that hits the downtube first. I will likely ground it down next time I have it apart to get the motor a tad higher. My DM01 is same height as 46t chainring and the wires are below that. Never had any ground clearance issues including many raised cattle guards I encounter everyday.
I take an old innertube length and slice a long V shape out of it. Then I roll it with electrical tape. That is my bushing. I then lever the motor hard against it and the downtube and lock the motor down. I have spare TSDZ lock-rings. I paint them black and use them as a secondary lock with blue Loctite. I do not like the wires under the DM01 and the throttle versions of the DM02. I can adjust everything about the torque sensor so a throttle is not needed. I can push my foot as easily as my thumb.
I'd think you'd want to use something a little denser/harder than inner tube and I'd lose the electrical tape.. it turns into a hot mess in the sun over time and shrinks in the cold. Heat shrink would be a better choice.
You just don't understand a throttle. . .
The throttle on the DM01 is super lame (both in response and overall power). I only added a throttle to compensate for the horrible response/delay starting from a stop.
I guess I'm making assumptions and comparing it to a Bafang UART BBS* and Ultra motor. The PAS and throttle are configured independently and are used to compliment each other. Great for not stalling on a steep rocky climb when you can't travel at speed because the terrain doesn't allow. Also great for a few second blast to maintain speed and allow you to stand over a large section of washboard'd roadway.
Well now that you know the code to get into the engineering menus diddle around in Throttle. I reset everything about the torque sensor. Throttle has three categories, Activate, Speed Mode, and Control Mode. Control Mode for example has H, Without PID, and PID. Whatever those are. My advice is to play with it. But only when taking detailed notes, and only when changing one thing at a time before testing. Speed Mode has 12 options, including Scooter. So what I think that I am hearing is factory default is anemic from the box, out of an abundance of caution. I love it. Just don't blow anything up.
Okay, in that case go into Speed and Power, Controller, and Torque Sensor. Change them all. Torque Sensor has nine sub-menus. I made mine kick-in with less delay in milliseconds and with less mv, millivolts, then it cuts out faster, so it is more perky, such a nice word, which gives me fine mamories of my youth, but with enough overrun milliseconds to not be jumpy. You can achieve displacement with perkiness, again just as in your youth.
I think we are lucky to even have the wiki.
I am still lingering on "a little too tall' could have used a few pounds, cornfields, backwoods and way up high, way up firm and high. Sorry, And working on mysteries without any clues. It takes people like us to unlock this stuff and sell it to Taylor Swift, and royals all dialed in, and one-of-a-kind high-end types. This is not regular bike shop stuff, or big-box stuff. It is Maker custom stuff. We are the exclusive tailors who know, and know. I will do that Pashley Prospero that royalty cannot touch or buy at any price. An adz is an ancient prehistoric tool, that bike will kick the adsz of any other, its so perfect and beautiful. The store junk is total off the shelf junk in comparison. Like a suit at Marshalls. Not from a custom tailor in Milan.
