Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

They changed the phone app over a year ago. Since that time I have no idea if there are any firmware updates for the SL1.
Data point: Dealer brought my SL 1 firmware up to date on purchase in September, 2024. Another routine update in February, 2025.

So something must've changed, but nothing obvious in the app features I use regularly (GPS tracking, assist tuning, and ride analysis).
 
Hi everyone! I have posted before and have gotten excellent information from this forum whenever I have a question or before I even knew I had a question. I have a Specialized Vado SL 5eq and I am thinking of installing a dropper post (I don't need suspension as I don't ride it off road). I would like a dropper for ease of getting off and on; I am a cyclist of 40+ years who does most of her own maintenance & repairs, but as I age it's getting harder to swing that leg over. I get on now by tilting the bike as most of my older friends do but I find that there is that critical point that, if it tips too far, there is no going back. I've had this painful experience. Currently, I have a Thompson alloy post that is 27.2 x 250mm with a 16mm setback (Pictures below), I realize that messing with the setback may require a longer stem; I am overall about 5'2 (157 cm) but my femur length is a bit longer in proportion to the rest of me. Before the questions about the amount of seat post I have exposed, I've had to do this on all my road bikes since I need a Small sized frame (46-49cm) to get a comfortable standover height due to my weird proportions. You can also see that I have my seat shoved way back on its rails as well. I had to replace the Specialized stock post that came with the bike because I would have had to raise it above its max insertion point. I have used setback stems on other bikes as well, but this is my first e-bike.

With all this in mind, my question is: Will I be able to use a dropper seat at all with this bike as I notice there is a curve near the bottom of the seat tube (Pictures below), so there must be a length limit on the length of the post. The amount of seat post above the frame is about 150 mm so there is about 100 mm in the tube. Does anyone have any experience with this? I thought I'd ask all of the collective wisdom on this forum before I even continue my dropper post quest--it may be all for naught:(. If it seems doable then I will contact manufacturer's or Specialized directly, if not I will strap a step stool to my rack! Thanks!
 

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@Jencuya - I recommend using the stock Specialized seat-post (or any long, straight 27.2 post) to measure how far a post can be inserted into the frame before it hits the curved seat tube area or bottle-cage nuts and stops. Then you can just look up different dropper post model dimensions to determine which if any will meet your needs. Most manufacturers provide detailed numbers, but finding one with the setback you want may be difficult.

Be aware that it’s a bit tricky to thread a dropper post cable housing thru the frame. We were able to do it on mrs e-levity’s Medium SL and my Large SL, but I can’t say how whether or how easy it will be on your Small frame. Here’s a PNW 90mm dropper post on my Large Vado SL -

IMG_1026.jpeg
 
The Sealant Story

I resigned from using the tubeless system on my Vado SL in December last year; it turned out the system was too complicated to be maintained by myself. I eventually replaced the tyres for Tracer Pro 42 mm with new tubes for the warm season last week and had a longer ride last Sunday.

When I attended to my Vado SL yesterday, I found the rear tyre flat for no obvious reason! Had enough!
  • I removed the valve core (using a small tool of a tubeless valve cap)
  • Injected the last 50 cm3 of tubeless sealant I had into the inner tube (using a syringe)
  • Replaced the valve core
  • Inflated the wheel to 3 bar
  • With the e-bike rotated, I was occasionally turning the wheel to distribute the sealant inside the tube.
It worked! Since the process, the rear wheel stays nicely inflated. So much for the tubeless setup :)

1742072769880.png

On a test ride (groceries) today.
 
Be aware that it’s a bit tricky to thread a dropper post cable housing thru the frame.
Or you could use a wireless variant or one of the kits to make a wired version wireless
The major reason I could not install a dropper on my Vado SL is there is no space to go with yet another cable through the opening in the e-bike frame where all other cables go. I was considering a wireless dropper but I decided it would be too expensive for me. Same with swapping the drivetrain for a wireless one and using a regular cable operated dropper seat-post.
 
There are still some dropperposts with an external cable routing so that could also be a possibility if you really want to use a dropper

I do know that the xlc sp-t09 is in 27.2, also the sp-t14 i think. These are also in the Pro brand (Shimano)
 
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There are still some dropperposts with an external cable routing so that could also be a possibility if you really want to use a dropper

I do know that the xlc sp-t09 is in 27.2, also the sp-t14 i think. These are also in the Pro brand (Shimano)
I tried an external cable dropper a couple years ago and it was a huge mistake. You see, e-bike frames are not as slim as the ones on traditional bikes so the external cable is difficult to install, and it always makes your e-bike look like something taken from a skip :)

I own a dropper that is operated by a handle under the saddle. It is the worst solution I know! Fancy you are on the trail and suddenly need to drop the seat. It is simply no time available to reach beneath you and pull the handle!
 
I tried an external cable dropper a couple years ago and it was a huge mistake. You see, e-bike frames are not as slim as the ones on traditional bikes so the external cable is difficult to install, and it always makes your e-bike look like something taken from a skip :)

I own a dropper that is operated by a handle under the saddle. It is the worst solution I know! Fancy you are on the trail and suddenly need to drop the seat. It is simply no time available to reach beneath you and pull the handle!
I didn't know that droppers with under the seat activation even existed. I think I will forgo that option as well! 🫣
 
@Jencuya - I recommend using the stock Specialized seat-post (or any long, straight 27.2 post) to measure how far a post can be inserted into the frame before it hits the curved seat tube area or bottle-cage nuts and stops. Then you can just look up different dropper post model dimensions to determine which if any will meet your needs. Most manufacturers provide detailed numbers, but finding one with the setback you want may be difficult.

Be aware that it’s a bit tricky to thread a dropper post cable housing thru the frame. We were able to do it on mrs e-levity’s Medium SL and my Large SL, but I can’t say how whether or how easy it will be on your Small frame. Here’s a PNW 90mm dropper post on my Large Vado SL -

View attachment 190652
Thanks! I didn't think about inserting a straight post. I'll try this after I can excavate it from the basement. I think I remember dropping the original seat post down as far as it could when I was replacing it and it didn't go down the whole way, so that doesn't bode well for a lot of room--less than 250mm. Did you have to remove the motor to get the internal cable threaded or were you able to fish it through somehow? This is something I don't feel comfortable doing on such an expensive bike; I'd probably have my LBS do it, but I'm not keen on that idea either. PNW has an external cable routed dropper--the Pine, but Stefan Mikes makes a good argument against external routing it because of how it looks. Sharp bike. I love the color, looks like you put a new chain ring--love the minimalist look of it.
 
I didn't know that droppers with under the seat activation even existed. I think I will forgo that option as well! 🫣
I think a gravel bike short-travel electronic dropper such as REVERB AXS XPLR 27.2 50 could do. It is a 27.2 mm post diameter, 50 mm travel dropper seat-post. Now, it is not only deadly expensive but you also need to buy a very expensive handlebar remote at an extra price... Were I you, I would give up the whole idea.

You see, a dropper is not for making the dismounting a bike easier. It is for the riding technique on gnarly trails. For instance, the seat is dropped on technical singletrack descents where the rider gets the seat to the bottom position, stands on the pedals, moves the butt far backwards, and that way moves their weight on the rear wheel. Or, riding in the mud or in the sand: the rider partly drops the seat and pedals in a low position to make the centre of gravity go down; it also makes it easier to support the body with the feet when necessary.

The easiest way to get off the e-bike is to support yourself on the ground on one foot then lean the bike sideways and raise the other leg :)

Did the dropper with the externally routed cable, though fugly, work well?
Yes it did.

1742084521560.png

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Installed on my big Vado almost five years ago. I would not do it again.
 
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There are still some dropperposts with an external cable routing so that could also be a possibility if you really want to use a dropper

I do know that the xlc sp-t09 is in 27.2, also the sp-t14 i think. These are also in the Pro brand (Shimano)
Thanks for the info about the Pro brand; it's one I haven't looked at.
 
I think a gravel bike short-travel electronic dropper such as REVERB AXS XPLR 27.2 50 could do. It is a 27.2 mm post diameter, 50 mm travel dropper seat-post. Now, it is not only deadly expensive but you also need to buy a very expensive handlebar remote at an extra price... Were I you, I would give up the whole idea.

You see, a dropper is not for making the dismounting a bike easier. It is for the riding technique on gnarly trails. For instance, the seat is dropped on technical singletrack descents where the rider gets the seat to the bottom position, stands on the pedals, moves the butt far backwards, and that way moves their weight on the rear wheel. Or, riding in the mud or in the sand: the rider partly drops the seat and pedals in a low position to make the centre of gravity go down; it also makes it easier to support the body with the feet when necessary.

The easiest way to get off the e-bike is to support yourself on the ground on one foot then lean the bike sideways and raise the other leg :)


Yes it did.

View attachment 190660
View attachment 190661
Installed on my big Vado almost five years ago. I would not do it again.
Thanks Stefan--I do get on my bike by leaning it after my usual swing over method resulted kicking the rack a few times. I am not as adverse to the ugliness of the external cable as most of the bikes I rode from the 70's to the early aughts had external cable routing. I am aware of what droppers are mostly used for as I did ride MTB's for awhile. But thanks for your excellent info--I may just leave well enough alone.
 
I think a gravel bike short-travel electronic dropper such as REVERB AXS XPLR 27.2 50 could do. It is a 27.2 mm post diameter, 50 mm travel dropper seat-post. Now, it is not only deadly expensive but you also need to buy a very expensive handlebar remote at an extra price... Were I you, I would give up the whole idea.

You see, a dropper is not for making the dismounting a bike easier. It is for the riding technique on gnarly trails. For instance, the seat is dropped on technical singletrack descents where the rider gets the seat to the bottom position, stands on the pedals, moves the butt far backwards, and that way moves their weight on the rear wheel. Or, riding in the mud or in the sand: the rider partly drops the seat and pedals in a low position to make the centre of gravity go down; it also makes it easier to support the body with the feet when necessary.

The easiest way to get off the e-bike is to support yourself on the ground on one foot then lean the bike sideways and raise the other leg :)


Yes it did.

View attachment 190660
View attachment 190661
Installed on my big Vado almost five years ago. I would not do it again.
Yeah, I find the cost of the wireless dropper post prohibitive. If I can't work out any other solution, I will probably abandon the whole idea as you recommend.
 
I used a dropper post with an under the seat control lever on my Vado. It was inexpensive, simple to install, and it worked great. It’s not something you want to be constantly adjusting, but for getting on and off the bike or just getting lower for fast, curvy descents it was easy to operate and very useful. One of these might solve the OP’s mounting/dismounting issue.

wLJM5Qg-0%21sizeoriginal.jpeg
 
It’s not something you want to be constantly adjusting, but for getting on and off the bike or just getting lower for fast, curvy descents it was easy to operate and very useful. One of these might solve the OP’s mounting/dismounting issue.
If only for this purpose, then it perhaps could. For instance, the XLC SP-T09.

1742112556093.png

It helped me a little on a gravel group ride in unpleasant terrain but I decided later the suspension seat-post was a way more beneficial for me.

What is really nice about a proper handlebar actuated dropper is you can drop the seat while stopping (not after having stopped), which is (again) much more practical.
 
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I tried an external cable dropper a couple years ago and it was a huge mistake. You see, e-bike frames are not as slim as the ones on traditional bikes so the external cable is difficult to install, and it always makes your e-bike look like something taken from a skip :)

I own a dropper that is operated by a handle under the saddle. It is the worst solution I know! Fancy you are on the trail and suddenly need to drop the seat. It is simply no time available to reach beneath you and pull the handle!
Ha I got one of those handle droppers for the Cairn. It isn't perfect but fine for what I need, for steep drops or long techie descents, I just stop, lower it and trundle on down. Im not racing and am ok to stop to operate it but its helped enormously on steep trails where without it I would have been too perilous to risk riding down. For price and cable routing hassle I decided not to buy a handlebar operated dropper, though they are much better in operation.
 
Ha I got one of those handle droppers for the Cairn. It isn't perfect but fine for what I need, for steep drops or long techie descents, I just stop, lower it and trundle on down. Im not racing and am ok to stop to operate it but its helped enormously on steep trails where without it I would have been too perilous to risk riding down. For price and cable routing hassle I decided not to buy a handlebar operated dropper, though they are much better in operation.
True. As I said I found the handle activated dropper useful only not the most practical. I feel a way better on a suspension seat-post for most of my rides. I am spoilt by a proper seat-post (OneUp V2) I used on my Giant Trance E+ when I owned that e-bike.

This May, I'm starting in a gravel race (a very hilly area). My brother will lend me the Trance. I asked him for repairing the dropper as the cartridge broke after 4 years of use. I will need the dropper on technical descents! Last year, I had to ride downhill on gnarly descents on my big Vado, and that was dangerous!
 
Thanks to everyone for their real life experience with these--even ones I didn't know I I'll let you know what I decide--the weather in NE PA is already good for riding--except for the 18-20 mph wind gusts which aren't unusual for March. I always get well-thought out, valuable information when I browse or ask a question. Many thanks to all! 🙏🙂
 
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