e-trike retrofit for Gekko?

ColoBiker

New Member
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USA
A year+ ago I got a Specialized Vado 4.0. Beautiful bike, wonderful to ride, but ... I kept having minor crashes. Long story, but I figured out I have Parkinson's, which does bad things to your balance. I also discovered I have osteoporosis, so crashing the bike is a Very Bad Idea.

Couldn't find a buyer, so I donated the Vado to my daughter. Now what? I got myself a used hp Velotechnik Gekko fx 20. Seems to work OK so far, but... I'm lazy. I'm allowed, I'm 70. I don't want to do all the work.

So what is a good electric retrofit for the Gekko? I don't need anything fancy, don't need a ton of power. I just want some help on the hills. I prefer a torque-sensor setup. Throttle would be nice but not necessary. Modest price is preferred. Suggestions?

Gary
 
I don't have any experience converting trikes and that is a folding trike on top of that. You could mount a mid-drive motor to the crank. Like the DM02 or the TSDZ2B. They have an integrated torque sensor. But I am not sure how that would affect the ability to fold it. You could also get a rear hub motor kit like the GMAC or All-Axle from Grin with a bottom bracket torque sensor.
 
You might want to look into a Keyde hub motor. I have a standard axle S110 with a 135mm O.L.D. but they also make a 142mm thru axle version. Simplest possible installation as the controller is built into the hub, only one wire to battery and a wireless (or wired option if you prefer) display/control) using their display and/or button control or your phone and an app if you prefer. In a 20" wheel it should provide better torque vs larger wheel diameters. It isn't torque sensing but the power isn't intrusive either. Weight is listed same as Mahle x35 which has been marketed in premium bikes. There is a good seller on Ebay and I can say he does consider offers.
 
I just made this one on Sunday. The date stamp is off. One consideration was the extension of the speed sensor and how to place the pickup. I had it up to 25. It has a 90Nm torque sensing motor. Getting it done is not theoretical.

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Nice! I was about to ask if it would work on a Gekko fx -- then I looked closer. ;) Your trike is probably not identical to an old fx but probably close?

I can't read the brand on the mid drive. What's the drive, what's the battery, how much $$? Is it a kit or a collection of DIY parts? How hard of a project for a relatively clueless DIYer? Thanks!
 
Nice! I was about to ask if it would work on a Gekko fx -- then I looked closer. ;) Your trike is probably not identical to an old fx but probably close?

I can't read the brand on the mid drive. What's the drive, what's the battery, how much $$? Is it a kit or a collection of DIY parts? How hard of a project for a relatively clueless DIYer? Thanks!
This is expert level. The motor is a fully programmable DM02. I have done similar ones. With this next one I painted the motor silver. It has the wires inside the adjustable boom. I used thermostat wire to run from the speed sensor to the motor. It came in with a brut out hub-drive. I used a new extra-strong Yuba cargo wheel. I boiled the chains in wax and cut them to equal lengths. Stacy wanted the integrated light kit. And it has the polished crank arms. Check out the spoke count compared to the first one.

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There are plenty of youtube videos regarding installation of a bottom braket motor onto a trike. Here's one for an older model Tongsheng TSDZ2, there's now a newer model called TSDZ2B which probably installs the same, they are torque sensing. You can decide for yourself if you're capable but I can say from experience installing a TSDZ2 (I have two of them) on multiple bikes that it is technically very easy and doesn't require that you program it as they come pre-programmed. Any bike specific tools you'd need to remove the old crankset/bottom bracket are inexpensive, available on Amazon and the TSDZ2B is currently ~$320 plus tax (battery extra). I have thousands of miles on my older version with absolutely no issues and the newer TSDZ2B is supposed to be more robust.
The author of this video also comments on how simple the installation is, depending on ability YMMV.
 
He calls the display the 'controller', but the controller is inside the motor. It is better to move the motor forward and up so it hits the boom against a rubber bushing. The DM02 is fully programmable with a 20 amp controller. Not fifteen. I tend to set them to 18 amps max on a 48V nominal battery. 48 x 18 = 864 W for climbing. If ordering though PedalUma eBikes, I give full support by phone and email. Ali gives no support or reucosce. You never know if it is second or third tear on Ali. Or if everything is compatible. See reviews on Maps of PedalUma eBikes. I can have the comprehensive kit sent to you with resources and instructions from a real maker who speaks English. One of my bikes just crossed the continental divide, bikepacking offroad. No off-the-rack eBike can do that.
 
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He probably just meant control/display rather than controller his is the very old version, I got that with my first one but replaced it with smaller integrated display/control. If this is too difficult for the OP to undertake then, as I posted before, a Keyde rear hub motor which has an internal controller is simply a rear wheel installation and connect a battery (they sell nice water bottle batteries but any 36v non-proprietary battery will work (as well as 33v and 24v) as the display/control is wireless (or phone app), or a wired display if so desired. My S110 is 500w max with 5 levels of assist, cadence sensing but they do advertise a "torque sensing" 750w version (P110) - although some have posted that it isn't a typical torque sensing experience whereas the TSDZ2 is as natural feeling as my Yamaha.
 
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