Is it possible to repair Reention battery power button (with LED lights)?

[-sandro-]

So basically I have the NCM Moscow since 2019 with the 624Wh battery pack.
Since around 2021 the LED indicating the charge stopped working but the power button worked fine.
Since a year ago the power button started not working 100% of time so I had to try multiple times to power on the battery.
Today it stopped working completely however if i charge the battery it turns and so the ebike can be used.
The battery is in good health from my estimation so it's really a pity having to replace the entire pack.
Do you think it's easy to replace the battery power button? I have no experience with these things and I'm really scared to do it, I'd obviously send it to a repair shop.
Anyone has any personal experience if it's doable?

 

[RunForTheHills]

https://forums.electricbikereview.c...v-4p220000-where-to-find-a-replacement.57969/

 

[-sandro-]

Thanks, anything EU based maybe? But anyway no one found the board right?

 

[-sandro-]

I opened the case, based on how the wiring is set (not sure that they do) is it fair to assume I need to buy this from AliExpress?

48v with power switch

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHDBriM

 

[Gionnirocket]

I opened the case, based on how the wiring is set (not sure that they do) is it fair to assume I need to buy this from AliExpress?

View attachment 207536


48v with power switch

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHDBriM

After reading this post last week I came to the same conclusion and found the same board on Ali. Not owning a Reention I didn't think yours involved the USB port as well so I passed on replying.
You might want to contact the seller to be sure it has the same footprint/fit before ordering.

 

[-sandro-]

After reading this post last week I came to the same conclusion and found the same board on Ali. Not owning a Reention I didn't think yours involved the USB port as well so I passed on replying.
You might want to contact the seller to be sure it has the same footprint/fit before ordering.

I messaged the seller, not sure how reliable they could be since they just want to sell the piece and are probably not experts in boards.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Not always true... I've gotten some pretty knowledgeable answers from sellers that are in the business and not just parts dealers.
It helps to use short simple sentences as they translate clearer. Photos help too.

 

[-sandro-]

The seller said it's right for my battery, does anyone know a tutorial how to do it, i mean it's just unplug and plug the new board, what i should not do and what to unplug first to not start a fire lol. The board shouldn't trigger anything to the battery anyway.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Well it'll pulls power from the battery/BMS... So that's the first plug to undo and the last one to connect.
Otherwise... Just be patient and very careful not to short out anything, but especially the battery mains.
This isn't specific to your situation... Just working on thing of this nature in general

 

[gromike]

Yeah, no arcs and sparks. You don't want to burn your fingers or nose off.

 

[Kriis]

The seller said it's right for my battery, does anyone know a tutorial how to do it, i mean it's just unplug and plug the new board, what i should not do and what to unplug first to not start a fire lol. The board shouldn't trigger anything to the battery anyway.

I feel your pain Sandro, i hope someone comes along soon with specific help. I have a similar battery (4 in truth) with identical body and end-caps, but i can't help you with this one as mine has different ancilliaries.

 

[-sandro-]

I feel your pain Sandro, i hope someone comes along soon with specific help. I have a similar battery (4 in truth) with identical body and end-caps, but i can't help you with this one as mine has different ancilliaries.

What's exactly is different in your batteries?
Thanks

 

[PCeBiker]

I've got a Reention Dorado battery with a similar circuit board in the end cap.

The usb port crapped out and I ended up with a pinched wire, so I removed the circuit boards.
Fortunately, with my battery, the output is always live, so I don't need a power button to wake up the battery.

I also have a Reention DeHawk battery that crapped out in EXACTLY The Same Way as your battery, but it happened within a month of getting my first ebike. (Et-Cycle T1000 with Das-Kit components)

I didn't want to be without my ebike for three months waiting for a warranty claim, so I opened up the battery and sprayed the circuit board down with contact cleaner, then sprayed it down with electronics safe rustproofing.

That got the battery working, and its been working for over three years now.

The little circuit board in the end cap that you need to replace should be a simple plug and play replacement.

You unplug all the connectors on the circuit board and swap in the new circuit board.

You don't need to worry too much about short circuiting anything because all the wires are inside tiny connector plugs,..

The tricky part is that the connectors are tacked together onto the circuit board with electronic silicone.
The silicone is softer so you can pick it off relatively easily.

The silicone covers up the seams off the connectors, so you need to find and separate the seams.
DON'T PULL ON THE WIRES!!
You need to pull on the plastic connector and the right part of the connector, because half the plastic is part of the circuit board.
The one connector on my circuit board has no plastic on the circuit board.
(you can pull gently on the wires but don't tug too hard.)



It kinda looks like you've got hot glue on your circuit board?

This connector here looks like it's the main power, and it's got two pieces of plastic.

You should be able to pick away at the glue or whatever that is to expose the connectors to separate them and swap them.

Be careful with any sort of metal pick, to not short anything out.
I've got non-conductive ceramic micro screwdrivers that I use.

 

[PCeBiker]

I just checked your link for the circuit board, and it looks like the board comes with connectors and wire leads??

And the circuit board that I posted was to power the USB port,..

So it looks like you don't need to disconnect any of the connectors?

Perhaps just reuse the main power connector, because it looks easy to get apart.

And you can probably just not hook up the USB circuit board if you don't use it?

Then you don't have to bother with that connection at all?



I ended up leaving the USB port and connected circuit board in place (and snipped all the wires off) because I didn't want to leave a hole in the side of my battery.
(even though the hole would be covered by the rubber cover plate)

 

[-sandro-]

So it looks like you don't need to disconnect any of the connectors?

Hi, thank you for the detailed answer.
What do you mean I don't need to disconnect if the board comes with wires?

 

[PCeBiker]

What do you mean I don't need to disconnect if the board comes with wires?

The new board appears to come with connectors attached with wire leads that can be spliced into your old wire leads if you can't get them disconnected from the old board.

If you can get A and B disconnected from your old board, they should just plug right into your new board.

If you can't get them removed, you can splice into the wires to get them connected.

C is just a jumper wire that is already on the new board, so you just leave it alone.

D provided power to the USB port.
It is a 4 pin 4 wire connector that has to come off your old board and connected to your new board, because that socket is empty so your old connector has to be reused.

I'm pretty sure that you can just leave that socket empty (if you can't get the old connector disconnected without damaging it).

I'm pretty sure that your USB port will be dead if you don't connect the four pin connector, but the LED display and your power button should work fine.

There's probably a screw or two that are hidden under the glue that need to be removed to get the board out.

The screw holes in the new board will show you where the screws are located.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I'm guessing the glue/silicone is applied after mating the connector. It's great for vibration. That said the bond isn't that tough on plastic and can typically be removed fairly easy. A plastic razor blade should work just fine.

 

[PCeBiker]

Mine just used the white electronics silicone, and I could pick it off easily.
(I added the clear silicone)
Sandros circuit board appears to be using both silicone and hot glue?

Hot glue can be more difficult to remove, and that 4 pin connector looks to be glued in pretty good?

Sandro should still be able to get his battery working without the USB port, if he can't get the connector disconnected.

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. the bond isn't that tough on plastic and can typically be removed fairly easy.

The hard part is that there's a plastic connector on the circuit board that mates with a plastic connector on the wires.

You don't want to be pulling on the circuit board, and it's difficult to pull on just the plastic of the wires without pulling too hard on the wires themselves.

 

[RunForTheHills]

There are electronics repair stores all over the place these days. They usually repair phones and computers, but they may be willing to do this simple repair for you if you are uncomfortable with it.